Geneva Watch Days 2025 showcased technical artistry through brands presenting traditional hand-finishings alongside innovative manufacturing processes. From De Bethune’s thermally oxidised titanium dials to Jacob & Co’s hand-painted dragon sculptures, the fair illustrated how surface treatments and decorative arts dominate luxury watchmaking’s upper tier. These timepieces represent significant investments in labour-intensive craftsmanship, with some requiring weeks of individual attention. Here are my favourites:
DE BETHUNE DB25XS STARRY VARIUS VOLCANIC EFFERSVENCENCE
This new version of De Bethune’s Starry Varius comes with a thermally oxidised titanium dial that captures the warm tones of a volcanic eruption against a starry night sky, unique to each customer.
The mirror-polished titanium surface is hand-decorated, setting white gold pins into micro-perforations to create a celestial tableau, whilst laser-beam micro-milling reveals a Milky Way motif enhanced with 24kt gold leaf. The refined 40mm case demonstrates exceptional craftsmanship with contemporary sloping geometry and subtly open-worked lugs.
Technical excellence shines through the hand-wound DB2005 calibre incorporating silicon escape-wheel, titanium and white gold balance-wheel, and anti-magnetic technologies. Every finishing detail reflects De Bethune’s commitment to 21st century haute horlogerie, from hand-polished rose gold hands to the ultra-lightweight titanium case. It comes on a burgundy alligator leather straps. More details, HERE.
MB&F LM101 EVO
The MB&F LM101 EVO celebrates the brand’s 20th anniversary by bringing the beloved Legacy Machine 101’s three-dimensional movement and signature 14mm flying balance wheel into a more robust package. The EVO treatment introduces an 80 metres water resistance titanium case, screw-down crown, integrated rubber strap, and MB&F’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, whilst eliminating the traditional bezel for enhanced visibility of the Super-LumiNova displays. Still, I wouldn’t take it rock climbing.
Technical improvements include an upgraded power reserve from 45 to 60 hours, redesigned twin arches supporting the flying balance wheel, and a new escape wheel featuring MB&F’s double battle-axe motif.
Available with green or salmon CVD dials, the LM101 EVO showcases exceptional finishing through its collaboration with Kari Voutilainen. The hand-finished movement features undulating Geneva waves, hand-polished bevels with internal angles, countersunk polished gold chatons and sensually curved plates paying tribute to 19th-century pocket watch traditions. Although it is not a limited edition, the amount of work each one requires means no more than a few dozen pieces can be produced each year. Find out more, HERE.
JACOB & CO ASTRONOMIA SOLAR DRAGON COLLECTION
This new collection showcases extraordinary aesthetic design centred around meticulously crafted dragon sculptures. Each timepiece features a coiled rose gold dragon wrapped around the three-dimensional Astronomia Solar movement, visible through transparent sapphire caseband and domed crystal.
Inspired by Asian dragons, these sculptures are cast from three individual pieces of solid rose gold and positioned less than half a millimetre from watch components. Presented in 44m cases, the collection offers rose gold versions with hand-painted dragons in four colour schemes topped by yellow Jacob-cut gemstones, and black titanium versions featuring all-black dragons with uniquely coloured centrepiece gems.
Each dragon requires over three weeks of intensive handwork – two weeks for engraving and polishing scales, claws, and texture, plus another week of skilled hand-painting.
The technical foundation is the crown-less Calibre JCAM42 movement, comprising 296 predominantly titanium components in a unique vertical configuration including a flying tourbillon, skeletonised dial, and rotating Earth globe. Every detail reflects exceptional finishing, from double-curved sapphire crystals to alligator leather straps. Find out more HERE.
GERALD GENTA MINUTE REPEATER
A sophisticated revival of the legendary designer’s passion for chiming complications. For this 21st century timepiece, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas have developed a new in-house GG-002 manual-winding calibre. The movement incorporates 316 components across 32 jewels with an 80-hour power reserve, whilst the manually tuned gongs and black polished hammers deliver exceptionally clear crystalline chimes through meticulous acoustic engineering and four weeks of assembly time per movement.
The 40mm yellow gold case demonstrates remarkable technical achievement at just 9.6mm thickness, with ultra-thin walls as narrow as 0.6mm and a reduced 0.8mm sapphire crystal specifically designed for optimal sound resonance. The cushion-shaped case features alternating brushed and polished surfaces with double gadroons, paired with a lustrous black onyx dial that reflects Mr. Genta’s preference for hardstone materials. Limited to 10 pieces. Learn more, HERE.
L.LEROY OSMIOR BAL DU TEMPS
This Geneva-manufactured timepiece features the hand-wound calibre L610SQ movement with 321 components, delivering an impressive 90-hour power reserve at 3Hz frequency. The standout complication is a minute repeater activated by a slide at 9 o’clock, employing two hammers striking twin gongs to chime hours, quarters and minutes – a technically demanding feat.
The visible tourbillon showcases traditional Geneva finishing including circular graining and a polished bridge with interlaced ‘L’ motifs. Available in three 43mm cases – grade 5 titanium, 18k red gold, or platinum – each 13.80mm thick.
Dial options include anthracite sunray with gold accents, blue ALD-treated finish, or rhodium-plated silver, all with applied Arabic numerals. Following souscription watch tradition, the L.Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps features a single hand. Technical specifications include 3ATM water resistance and anti-reflective sapphire crystals. Further information, HERE.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Other GWD 2025 highlights by I-M Inquisitive Minds includes the new additions to the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra collection, our selection of the most noteworthy innovations. and the most budget-friendly.
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