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Culture

Past, Future, Perfect

In a sense, it was a quieter year for Patek Philippe, but that does not mean the watches presented were not superlative. Along with a Rare Handcrafts Exhibition at their Geneva boutique and the integration of the crafts into the watches released at Watches & Wonders, this was a year aimed more at the collector and cognoscenti, with new versions of well-loved classic models, a celebration of their ladies’ line, and a re-generation of a much-loved mid-20th century design.

As part of the Rare Handcrafts theme, there was an exhibition at the main Geneva boutique which demonstrated the extent of artistic endeavours that the company’s artisans can realise. A number of different metiers d’art were on display, from guilloché to enamelling, gem-setting and engraving.

Out of all of the watches shown, my favourite was the Calatrava ref. 5089G Morning on the Beach, an innovative juxtaposition of a centuries-old art form and a modern pictorial setting, which also represents a different aesthetic by Patek Philippe. Marquetry is the painstaking use of coloured wood varieties, taking into account the vein and how they can cut,…

Delving into conflict, persecution and immigration

British-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare has returned to the Serpentine with his first solo exhibition in London in 20 years. Titled Suspended States, the show looks to explore the many repercussions of colonization, Europe’s imperial history and subsequent endeavours for peace. The compelling artworks delve into key themes such as the enduring legacies of colonialism, spaces […]

Moving the needle

The inhospitable landscapes of northern Scandinavia may not seem the ideal place to nurture artistic talent, but this is exactly where Britta Marakatt-Labba has rooted hers. Born into a reindeer herding family in Sápmi – one of the northernmost regions of the world – she started her career in 1979 in Gothenburg, studying Design and […]

God was his co-pilot

Brazilian Formula One driver Ayrton Senna drove like a man possessed. His rivals feared him, his country worshipped him. When he was killed 30 years ago on live television, he left a legacy of tears, adulation and debate.

At the Monaco Grand Prix, grid position is everything. In 1988, with five minutes of the qualifying session remaining, Ayrton Senna’s McLaren-Honda had recorded the fastest time so far; almost a second quicker than his team-mate, Alain Prost. Even allowing for Prost’s potential to shave a couple of tenths off his own time, it would’ve been enough to guarantee pole for Senna. But this was Monaco, and this was Senna. He was out to prove he was the master and, in the process, psychologically destroy his team-mate. That was just the way he worked. There was only time for one more run. Senna’s McLaren shot through the turns, dancing on the absolute limit of physics. The other F1 cars looked pedestrian in comparison. Senna went a second and a half faster than anyone else had ever lapped the Monaco circuit.

In the history of Formula One racing, no one was better at producing these moments of extrovert brilliance than Ayrton Senna. In May of 1988, he had yet to win the world championship. Indeed, he had only won a mere seven grands prix in four and a half seasons. With Senna, though, it was always about quality rather than quantity.

“If you have God on your side, everything becomes clear.”

 

           –  Ayrton Senna

Senna was, in many ways, the first truly professional F1 driver. Like many elite sportspeople, he was a control freak and a paranoiac. But he was also thoughtful and engaging. He was gentle and generous away from the white heat of competition (he gave extensively to charity, usually anonymously), and he also possessed an impish sense of humour that’d reveal itself at his most relaxed.

That said, intensity was never far away, and would only be magnified when Senna left Lotus to join Prost at McLaren in 1988. If Senna were to make an impact, he would have to be measured favourably against the double world champion. This became a fixation that would drive Senna to the kinds of performances seen during that year’s mesmerising Monaco qualifying. But it would also drive him into the wall. That same weekend would prove a startling example. Senna appeared to have the race sewn up when Prost missed a gear at the start and dropped behind a Ferrari to third. The Brazilian pulled away in the lead. By lap three, he was 4.3 seconds in front. By lap five, 7.5 seconds. And so it went on. On lap 54, Prost finally managed to move into second place. Senna was 49 seconds in credit. Not even a driver of Prost’s calibre could hope to make up the difference in the remaining 24 laps. But he had one card left to play: he could mess with Senna’s head.

Ayrton Senna claimed his first World Championship in 1988. Between him and his teammate Alain Prost, they won all 16 Grands Prix that year.

The Frenchman upped his pace and set the fastest lap, knowing that this news would be relayed to his team-mate. As if on cue, for four successive laps Ayrton went quicker still. Then Prost backed off. When that was passed on to Senna, he, too, reduced pace. But the flow had gone. He began to make small mistakes. On lap 67, he brushed a barrier and his McLaren ricocheted into the Armco on the other side of the road. Victory had been thrown away. Worse still, his biggest rival was headed towards the chequered flag. Senna jumped out of the damaged car and walked briskly to his apartment, which happened to be nearby. He shut the door and ignored the phone. He wouldn’t even speak to Jo Ramirez, the McLaren team manager he knew well and respected. “For hours we tried to contact him,” Ramirez says. “His telephone was either engaged or off the hook. At about nine in the evening, I managed to get an answer from his Brazilian housekeeper. At first, she insisted Senhor Ayrton wasn’t there, but I pleaded with her in Portuguese, knowing Ayrton was there. She finally handed the phone over to him – and Ayrton was still crying. “Ayrton,” continues Ramirez, “was a perfectionist. He couldn’t tolerate mistakes by the team, and he tolerated his own even less.”

“Ayrton made so few mistakes that when he did make them, he used to punish himself.”

      –  Jo Ramirez, former Team           Manager, McLaren Racing

Neither could Senna tolerate perceived injustices – and there was none worse in his mind than the events following the 1989 Japanese Grand Prix. Winning his first world title in 1988 hadn’t been enough for Senna; not when he was head-to-head again with Prost the year after. Ayrton – who said the Monaco ’88 accident “brought me closer to God” – was not averse to pushing Prost towards the concrete pitwall at 180mph. Prost would later say: “Ayrton thinks he can’t kill himself because he believes in God.”

In Japan, Prost executed a clumsy blocking move as he tried to defend his lead in the closing stages of the race. Senna recovered from the subsequent collision; Prost did not. But his victory was annulled when officials declared he had broken the rules rejoining the track. It was Prost who won the championship as a result. Senna carried the sense of persecution with him for 12 months, only to have it inflamed at the same track when officials insisted he make his pole-position start for the 1990 race on the dirty side of the grid. Prost, who’d defected to Ferrari but was still Senna’s only real rival, would have the benefit of the clean side. Sure enough, Prost made the better getaway as they rushed down to the first corner at 170 mph – where Senna promptly smashed into the back of the Ferrari, taking both of them out but still winning the title. Senna was not in the least bit apologetic. He’d been messed around with – why could no one else understand this?

This same ethos had driven Senna from the moment he arrived in Europe from his native São Paulo in 1978, aged 18, to race karts. His greatest rival was the British karter Terry Fullerton. “He was obsessed with success,” says Fullerton. “I’ve seen him do silly things when he wasn’t quickest. The kid was loaded with ability, but he didn’t have any fear.”

Senna at the Monaco Grand Prix, 1992, en route to the fifth of his six wins at the principality.

Ayrton reclaimed the F1 title again in 1990 and 1991, but then the wins started to dry up due to the rise of Williams-Renault. Once the incumbent Prost retired at the end of 1993, Senna switched to the reigning champions for the following season. The Rothmans-liveried FW16 was a difficult car, and 25-year-old Michael Schumacher came straight out of the blocks to dominate in a Benetton car that Senna believed to be breaking the technical regulations. Senna spun out of the first two races, while Schumacher romped to victory. The pressure was building when they arrived in Imola, Italy, for Round Three; 1994’s San Marino Grand Prix.

Senna was shocked by a spectacular practice crash involving his friend and countryman Rubens Barrichello. And he was appalled when Austrian rookie Roland Ratzenberger was killed during qualifying. He resigned himself to race the following day, but he appeared distracted… balancing risk versus reward, considering how long was it wise for him to continue?

Leading the San Marino Grand Prix on lap seven, Senna’s Williams inexplicably left the track and hit the wall at the Tamburello corner. The 130-mph impact tore off the right-front wheel and drove it towards the cockpit, though it was part of the car’s broken suspension that dealt the fatal blow when it penetrated the iconic yellow helmet.

Senna famously said, “The danger sensation is exciting. The challenge is to find new dangers.” All who knew him agree he knew no fear.

Senna’s body was flown home with a Brazilian fighter-jet escort. To put this in context for a UK audience, the death of Ayrton hit Brazilians as hard as the death of Diana would Britons a few years later. Mourners turned out in their thousands to see his casket lying in state. The entire country came to a standstill as the funeral cortege made the ten-mile journey to São Paulo’sMorumbi cemetery, with Alain Prost among the pallbearers. A guard of honour fired a salute over the unpretentious grave. Everywhere, people held banners and messages: “Senna obrigado”, “Adeus Senna”, and “Saudade” – a simple but expressive word with no direct translation in English, which connotes a deep longing for something or someone you loved, but is now either lost, gone, or unobtainable forever.

Many words have been written about this man in the three decades since that awful day, May 1st, 1994. None were more telling than his own, spoken to an English journalist he trusted, the late Russell Bulgin, in January 1994. “If I ever happen to have an accident that eventually costs me my life,” Ayrton said, “I hope it is in one go. If I am going to live, I want to live fully, very intensely, because I am an intense person. It would ruin my life if I had to live partially.”

No one who knew him or saw him race, at any stage of his 34 years, could ever accuse Ayrton Senna of that.

Words: Adam Hay-Nicholls

Opening image courtesy of McLaren Racing

Guy Ritchie's latest hired gun wants it all

Born into a family full of creative and intellectual talent, Ruby has written, produced and directed her own short films for years. As Gabrielle in Guy Ritchie’s most recent TV show, The Gentlemen, she has taken a giant leap into the world of celluloid.

Ruby’s family environment was somewhat unorthodox. Where other kids grew up watching In the Night Garden and Sponge Bob Square Pants, family TV for Ruby and her brother George meant Alfred Hitchcock films and The Mighty Boosh. “The four of us have a tattoo of it,” she shares, pointing to the inside of her right ankle. Laughing she adds, “Sort of a family trademark, I suppose.”

Her professional journey has been one of organic evolution. Behind the camera, her work includes Code Switching, VHS East London, and The Red Lake – three shorts she wrote, produced and directed in 2019; and in When Fate Calls, which she cowrote with her brother the same year.

Ruby wears Van Cleef & Arpels Frivole earrings and ring; Jenny Packham tulle dress and Christian Louboutin Sweet Jane shoes.

At the same time, she was modelling “to earn some money”, taking part in TV commercials and music videos. Her acting skills were honed during her studies at Actors Temple London. “I very much enjoyed how acting allowed me to express myself in many different ways.”

Being cast for Guy Ritchie’s The Gentlemen represented a big step forward in her acting career. Candidly, she comments, “I got very lucky with that one. I think the casting team liked me because I am from Southend [Southend-on-Sea, Essex] and my natural accent fitted what Guy was looking for.”

“I very much enjoy how acting allows me to express myself in many different ways.”

– Ruby Sear
Earrings and dress by Louis Vuitton


The Gentlemen is an eight-part drama, inspired by Ritchie’s eponymous film from 2019. In it, Eddie Horniman, played by Theo James (The White Lotus, Sanditon, Allegiant) inherits a large estate from his aristocrat father, and becomes the new Duke of Halstead – only to discover that it’s sitting on top of the biggest weed farm in Europe. Horniman is determined to escape the farm’s clutches and keep his family and estate safe. In order to do that, he has to become a bit of a gangster himself. The problem is that he starts liking it. From here, the whole plot changes. Ray Winston, Vinnie Jones, Kaya Scodalerio and Freddie Fox, are some of the household names helping to bring this fast-paced criminal drama full of shady – and often charming – characters to life.

Ruby plays Gabrielle, a hired gun, and a woman of mystery. “Basically she is a tough woman with a strong character, who gets entangled with the hoodlum families. She’ll take on any job, no matter how big or small, never letting her conscience get in the way. She is the peak of professionalism… until she meets Jimmy Chang, that is!”

“Gabrielle is a true professional. She’ll take on any job, no matter how big or small, never letting her conscience get in the way.”

– Ruby Sear
Total look by Alexander McQueen

Given this was her very first time on set, Ruby felt a bit nervous about the whole thing, but her co-actors and the rest of the crew, all helped her settle in quickly. “I got very close to my love interest in the show, Jimmy (played by Michael Vu), who I think is going to steal the show. Vinnie Jones was also really nice to me, and he is hilarious. Joely Richardson was very welcoming and kind, as was Kaya Scodaleiro, who plays the lead female character. All of the cast and crew created such a welcoming environment. I feel lucky to have had the opportunity to work with such a lovely team!”

Parallel to acting, Ruby also paints; a passion she developed during her time living in LA. Her liberal parents, Simon and Juliet Sear, gave her a lot of freedom early on, and encouraged her to explore her creativity, push boundaries, try new things. […]

To read this interview in full, pre-order the spring 2024 issue of I-M Intelligent Magazine HERE.

The Gentlemen is currently showing on Netflix.
Words: Julia Pasarón
Photography: Fenton Bailey Photo Assistant: Malak Kabbani
Fashion & Jewellery Director/ Shoot Production: Marcella Martinelli
Hair: Tim Crespin Make-up: Yin Lee
Opening photo: Ruby Sear wears diamonds and platinum high jewellery by Harry Winston and viscose polo neck by Moschino.

Opera Gallery hosts the first solo show of the artist in London in 58 years

Struggle, desolation, even rage are words that come to my mind when in front of Antonio Saura’s work. Born in Spain in 1930, Saura was a founding member of the El Paso group, a collective of artists and critics established in 1957 which, together with the Dau Al Set, defined the avant-garde art movement in Spain in the 20th century. Together with the emergence of Abstract Expressionism in New York and Art Informel in Paris, El Paso reinvigorated the international art scene, which had been severely depleted after WWII. The three movements encouraged spontaneous freedom of expression and the exploration of the subconscious mind.

It was in a visit to El Prado Museum as a kid, that Saura first experienced the work of the Spanish masters Goya and Velázques, both of whom would have a profound influence on his work. At the age of 13, he contracted tuberculosis, which forced him to stay confined to his room for several years, and thus, books became his window to the world. In 1947, when he was mostly recovered, he started to paint, without any formal training at all. His early works mostly depicted imaginary landscapes and employed a very colourful palette in flat, smooth applications of paint.

In 1954, he moved to Paris, where he met many of the surrealist artists and where his work showed the influence of the Art Informel and the Abstract Expressionist movements. Upon his return to Spain a couple of years later, he started to centre his work in the representation of the human figure, often distorted to express an array of feelings and emotions associated with existential angst. The influence of Velázquez Christ Crucified (1632) and Goya’s The Dog (circa 1819-1823) would become recurrent themes in his paintings.

Left: Crucifixión, 1960, Gouache and India ink on paper. Right: Le Chien de Goya, 1985, oil. Both images: © Succession Antonio Saura www.antoniosaura.org A.D.A.G.P. Paris, 2023

This travelling exhibition, which debuted at Opera Gallery Madrid in 2023, pays homage to Saura’s artistic legacy 26 years after his death, while examining his innumerable contributions to the art historical canon in Spain and beyond. The show brings together 27 paintings, works on paper and canvas created between 1959-1997, exploring enduring themes in Saura’s practice – from Crucifixions to Crowds as well as Imaginary Portraits – which acted as catalysts for existential and aesthetic developments. The show also highlights his Auto-da-fé series, a suite of paintings made using the torn-out covers of books that he originally created 40 years ago. An auto-da-fé was the ritual of public penance imposed by the Catholic authorities during which they’d publicly declare the sins, crimes and sentences of the accused by the Inquisition Tribunal.

Very few artists of this period managed to convey feelings of isolation, hopelessness and bleakness with as much power as Saura. The darkness of his work was emphasised by his sober palette of black and white, vigorous brushstrokes and contorted figures.

Autodafé, 1986, Acrylic and lacquer on board. Photo Credit: ©Succession Antonio Saura. A.D.A.G.P. Paris, 2023

His talent was recognised internationally and as such, Saura exhibited widely in Europe and the USA during the decades of censorship imposed by dictator Francisco Franco. Among many prestigious awards, he received the Guggenheim New York International Prize (1960) and the Grand Prix des Arts de la Ville de Paris (1995), as well as the Carnegie Award for his contribution to documenta Kassel (1964). 

Saura’s work extended beyond painting into sculpture, writing, printmaking, theatre set design and writing. He published his first book in 1950 and regularly brought out new works right up to the end of his life in 1998. At the end of 2024, the Antonio Saura Foundation will publish a new book titled, On Picasso, which includes a series of essays dedicated to Pablo Picasso, most of which have never been printed in English. 

In 1997, Saura was diagnosed with leukaemia, and only a year later, he died, in his studio in Cuenca, Spain.

Isabelle de La Bruyère, CEO of Opera Gallery Group commented: “We are very proud to host an important new exhibition in London – Antonio Saura: Painting at Will – in collaboration with the Succession Antonio Saura and Fondation Archives Antonio Saura. Recognised as one of Spain’s most important Post-War artists, this is Saura’s first solo show in London since 1966. The works presented, some of which for the first time in the United Kingdom, demonstrate his intricate knowledge and contribution to art history, as well as his empathy towards the human condition and fearless engagement with culture…”

Antonio Saura, Painting at Will 
29 February – 26 March 2024 
Opera Gallery London
65 – 66 New Bond Street W1S 1RW
london@operagallery.com         T +44 (0)20 7491 2999         operagallery.com

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening photo: Antonio Saura photographed in Cuenca, Spain in 1998 Photo: © José María Alguersuari.

Fashion and identity through the eyes of John Singer Sargent

Prepare to be transported back in time as Tate Britain opens its doors to an enchanting exhibition that marries the sartorial splendour and luxury of the late Victorian and Edwardian eras with the masterful brushstrokes of John Singer Sargent.

An American expat from birth, Sargent had a nomad childhood, travelling around Europe with his parents and siblings. By the age of 17, Sargent was fluent in Italian, French and German, besides English. His nomadic life facilitated his study of the Old Masters. He was particularly influenced by Diego de Velázquez’s realism and Frans Hals’s bold strokes, both of which he’d make his own.

Left: Lady Helen Vincent, Viscountess d’Abernon, 1904. Collection of the Birmingham Museum of Art, Alabama. Right: Portrait of Ena Wertheimer: A Vele Gonfie, 1904. Tate. Photo © Tate (Oliver Cowling).

This exhibition organised by Tate Britain and the Museum of Fine Arts, London, focuses precisely on this component of the artist’s creative process, and how he used fashion as part of his artistic expression. “The coat is the picture,” Sargent once told fellow painter, author, and collector, Graham Robertson. The show features Robertson’s portrait among nearly 60 others, including major portraits that rarely travel. Several period garments and accessories are showcased alongside the portraits they were worn in, among them Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth with her beetle-wing-encrusted costume, and Mrs. Charles Inches (Louise Pomeroy) with her red velvet evening gown.

Sargent’s keen eye for detail, together with his ability to render fabrics, textures and the play of light on clothing, elevate his portraits to a level of unparalleled sophistication. The exhibition delves into the artist’s meticulous approach to capturing the nuances of fashion, highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship of garments and the way in which they contribute to the overall narrative of each portrait.

Left: Portrait of Miss Elsie Palmer (A Lady in White), 1889-90. Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center (Colorado Springs, USA). Right: Mrs Hugh Hammersley, 1892. Lent by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. © The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Art Resource/Scala, Florence.

The clothing worn by Sargent’s subjects becomes a mirror that reflects the social norms, aspirations and shifting paradigms of the time, offering a rich tapestry of history woven into every brushstroke. From lace and silk to velvet and satin, Sargent’s brush immortalizes the luxurious fabrics that adorned his sitters. An excellent example is the striking Lady Helen Vincent, Viscountess d’Abernon, 1904, dressed in opulent fabrics befitting of her position in society.

Other samples of Sargent’s precision and flair when capturing the essence of his subjects are the playful A Dinner Table at Night and the notorious  Madame X. His depiction of socialite, Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau scandalised the Paris Salon in 1884. Such was the outrage caused by  Madame X, that Sargent moved to England, where he continued his career; very successfully.

Sargent and Fashion

Tate Britain

Millbank, London SW1P 4RG

Until 7th July 2024. More information and tickets, HERE.

Words: Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Opening picture: John Singer Sargent, Ena and Betty, Daughters of Asher and Mrs Wertheimer, 1901 (cropped from the original). Oil on canvas; 185.4 x 130.8 cm. Tate. Photo © Tate (Joe Humphrys)

A Radiant Renaissance

One of only two female founding members of the Royal Academy of Arts in London, Angelica Kauffmann was something of a trailblazer in the 18th century. Her importance in the history of art is not just based on how unusual it was for a woman to be a recognised artist, but also on the influence her work would have on subsequent generations of artists.

A Radiant Renaissance presents a comprehensive selection of Kaufmann’s works, which illustrate the breadth of her talent, from portraiture to decorative arts and history painting; the field that would ultimately bring her international recognition from the leading courts of Europe and private patrons alike.

Born in Switzerland in 1741, Kauffman spent her childhood living and travelling in Europe with her father, the lesser artist, Johann Kauffmann. Her ability showed from an early age, so much so, that by her teens she was already working on portrait commissions. At the start of this exhibition, visitors are invited to explore her mastery in this field through several of her self-portraits, such as Self-portrait in the Traditional Costume of the Bregenz Forest, 1781.

Left: Self-portrait in the Traditional Costume of the Bregenz Forest, 1781; Photo: © Innsbruck, Tiroler Landesmuseen. Right: Cleopatra Adorning the Tomb of Mark Anthony, c. 1765. The Burghley House Collection. Photo: © The Burghley House Collection.

Beyond portraiture, Kauffman excelled in history painting, a genre from which women were generally excluded due to the requirements to study anatomy, an issue that she avoided by studying classical sculptures rather than live models. Challenging the conventions of her time, Kauffman often chose to focus on female protagonists, such as in Cleopatra Adorning the Tomb of Mark Anthony, c.1769-70.

In 1766, she accepted an invitation to visit London, where she achieved immediate success. As one contemporary stated, the world went “Angelicamad”. Her time with the Royal Academy of Arts is covered in the third section of the exhibition, which includes Johan Zoffany’s famous group portrait of the Royal Academy members, The Academicians of the Royal Academy, 1771-1772. In it, Kauffmann and Moser’s positions as founding members are reduced to portraits on the wall, as women were not allowed in the Life Room, where the portrait is set.

Left: Portrait of Emma, Lady Hamilton, as Muse of Comedy, 1791; private collection. Right: Portraits of Domenica Morghen and Maddalena Volpato as Muses of Tragedy and Comedy, 1791. National Museum in Warsaw MNW. Photo: Piotr Ligier © Collection of National Museum in Warsaw.

The last section of the show is dedicated to Kauffmann’s late career in Rome, where she returned in 1782. It was here that her status and reputation prospered, and she became the to-go artist for women who wanted themselves portrayed, such as Portrait of Emma, Lady Hamilton, as Muse of Comedy, 1791. Particularly captivating is Self-portrait at the Crossroads between the Arts of Music and Painting, 1794, in which the artist looks back at the point in her life when she decided to abandon her musical career and devote herself entirely to painting. The work is one of the most highly regarded self-portraits of the 18th century.

The exhibition concludes with one of her few religious paintings, Christ and the Samaritan Woman, 1796; one of two canvases carried in her funeral procession in 1807, organised by her close friend, the sculptor Antonio Canova, along with other contemporary artists and scholars.

Angelica Kauffman: a radiant renaissance

Royal Academy of Arts. 1st March – 30th June 2024

Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BD

www.royalacademy.org.uk

Words: Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Opening picture: Angelica Kauffman, Self-portrait at the Crossroads between the Arts of Music and Painting, 1794. Oil on canvas, 147.3 x 215.9 cm. National Trust Collections (Nostell Priory, The St. Oswald Collection). Photo: © National Trust Images/John Hammond

Strokes of Genius

The Baroque Dutch painter Frans Hals is considered one of the most innovative artists of his time. His paintings of citizens of Haarlem, where he spent most of his life, were unlike anything else in-period: natural, spontaneous, full of movement and vitality; effects achieved thanks to his incisiveness as an artist and his unique technique of using broad, loose brushstrokes, and the application of the pigment directly onto the canvas.

Born in Antwerp around 1582, Hals’s career developed mostly in Haarlem, at the time of the Dutch Golden Age, where artists thrived in a society driven by trade, science and the arts. He achieved the status of virtuoso, which catapulted him to the level of Rembrandt and Velázquez. Unfortunately, by the 18th century, his fame had faded away. It wasn’t until the 19th century that French art critic and journalist, Théophile Thoré-Bürge rediscovered his work, as well as that of Vermeer.

Left: Malle Babbe, c. 1640. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Gemäldegalerie. Right: The Lute Player, c. 1623. Musée du Louvre, Paris. Both by Frans Hals.

The 50 works exhibited at the Rijksmuseum highlight the artist’s keen observation and revolutionary approach to capturing the essence of human character. Hals departed from the formal and stoic poses common in the era, opting instead for a more naturalistic and animated style. The show even digs into the identities and social milieus of the people Hals painted, bringing them further into life. Malle Babbe, c.1633-35, for example, is believed to have been a familiar figure on the streets of Hals’ home city of Haarlem, while the man portrayed in Peeckelhaering, 1629, was probably an English actor touring the Netherlands.

The freedom of his style manifested in loose and expressive brushstrokes, combined with a keen understanding of colour, light and shadow. This is probably why Hals is often described as the forerunner of Impressionism. His style influenced Gustave Courbet, Édouard Manet, James McNeil Whistler, Claude Monet, Max Liebermann, Vincent van Gogh, John Singer Sargent and others. Almost all of them visited Haarlem to admire his portraits of individuals and civil militia groups, four of which can be admired at this exhibition. They include Hals’s earliest militia painting, Banquet of the Officers of the St George Civic Guard, 1616, which has left the Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem for the first time.

Probably his most famous painting, Frans Hals’ portrait of this young man is the best example of his ability to convey the mood and expression of his sitters.   

Another gem in the show is The Laughing Cavalier, 1624, probably Hals’s most famous painting. This captivating portrayal of a gentleman who seems to be holding back a burst of laughter, encapsulates the artist’s flair for conveying emotion. The black sash demonstrates his extraordinary ability to paint using a limited colour palette, which led Vincent van Gogh to exclaim, “Frans Hals must have had 27 blacks!”

The Rijksmuseum’s Frans Hals exhibition invites visitors to explore the enduring legacy of this innovative artist and how his approach paved the way for future generations of artists, including impressionists and post-impressionists. Most importantly, the dynamic and engaging portraits of Hals continue to resonate with audiences, offering a timeless celebration of the human spirit.

Frans Hals: Strokes of Genius

Rijksmuseum. Museumstraat 1, Amsterdam 1071 XX

16th February – 9th June 2024

www.rijksmuseum.nl/en

Words: Lavinia Dickson-Robinson
Opening image: Frans Hals, Banquet of the Officers of the St George Civic Guard, 1616. Frans Hals Museum, Haarlem.

Heralding a new cultural age

A canvas so vast and so beautiful, the ancient city of AlUla is, by its very nature, a place of extraordinary beauty. Positioned on the ancient Incense Route between Southern Arabia and Egypt, this expansive region spans 200,000 years of human history and features a lush valley, towering sandstone mountains, and heritage sites.

Its most renowned landmark is Hegra, recognised as Saudi Arabia’s inaugural UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ongoing research indicates that this ancient city may have served as the southernmost outpost of the Roman Empire following their conquest of the Nabataeans in 106 CE.

Hegra, the largest preserved site of the Nabataean civilization south of Petra, was established at the end of the 1st millennium BC. Photo: © Royal Commission for AlUla.

Once an important stopping point for traders of frankincense, myrrh, and other precious commodities, today it is the epicenter of an exciting cultural movement.

Saudi Arabia opened its doors to tourism only five short years ago and Design Space AlUla, located in the AlJadidah Arts District, is the first permanent contemporary gallery space here, dedicated to showcasing the many incredible design initiatives across the region.

Design by Giò Forma Studio, Design Space AlUla is a contemporary building made of steel, glass, and polished concrete.

Designed by the award-winning Milan-based Giò Forma Studio, the breathtaking structure, homage to the traditional breezeblock used widely across buildings in the surrounding area, will open its doors during the AlUla Arts Festival, in February. The welcoming central plaza and courtyard is enhanced by the intricate lattice facade of exposed geometric brickwork, allowing for increased natural light and ventilation throughout the building.

The gallery’s first exhibition, which is set to run from 15th February to 1st June 2024, is called Mawrid: Celebrating Inspired Design, and will showcase the process behind ten recent designs inspired by the city of AlUla.

Sara Ghani, the gallery’s curator, comments, “Design Space AlUla commits to celebrating AlUla’s natural history, its cultural heritage, and vernacular materials – inspiring sustainable futures that are rooted in place.”

View of Madrasat Adeera, AlUla first arts and design centre, commissioned to UK-based Hopkins Arc. © Royal Commission for AlUla/ Nick Jackson.

The grand opening heralds the start of a continuous exhibition series that will span many design projects, including the renovation of Madrasat Addeera, AlUla’s first arts and design centre, by UK-based Hopkins Architects; Roth Architecture’s Azulik Eco Resort, which draws eco-inspiration from the stories of wind and erosion; SAL Architects’ renovation of the historic Ammar Bin Yasser Mosque, and AlUla’s Cultural Oasis District Masterplan, guided by Prior + Partners, in collaboration with Allies and Morrison.

Other exhibitors will showcase the work of finalists from the second edition of AlUla Design Award; they include Imane Mellah, Teeb, Sara Kanoo, Gunjan Gupta and Shaddah Studio, as well as representation from the first edition of the AlUla Design Residency. The residency is a five-month programme in AlUla that aims to bring together designers and experts on-site to work across multiple disciplines. Their work was showcased at Paris Fashion Week last year. 

Left, detail of a Nabatean tomb. Right, preliminary sketches of Sarah Kanoo’s Mashbak clasp. Photos: © Sarah Kanoo.

The exhibition also explores the visual identity for Design Space AlUla created by the Clara Sancho Studio and design agency 29Letters from Madrid. The logo draws on a wide range of regional inspiration, from ancient inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah to the distinctive breezeblocks in AlJadidah.

Ghani explains the purpose of such a wide initiative, “Our ambition is to fuel the design economy, provide resources to designers to explore and experiment, and be a place for visitors to research, explore, and connect with the processes behind AlUla’s design journey.”

The gallery’s launch programme takes place between the 15th – 17th February and will include keynote presentations, masterclasses, workshops, panel discussions and design tours.

AlUla is fast becoming a bucket list favorite. Last year 230,000 tourists were expected, and it’s projected that two million people a year will be visiting by 2035.

For more information please visit: experiencealula.com

Words: Lisa Marks

Opening image: Design Space AlUla, Al Jadidah Art District. Photo: © Nicholas Jackson Photography.

The intriguing mystery of our obsession with footwear

It’s safe to say that shoes score top of the list when it comes to attire people are obsessed with. From the infamous Imelda Marcos’ reported 3,000 pairs to Paris Hilton’s 2,000 or NBA player Russell Westbrook’s 1,000, our obsession with footwear seems to date back to Ancient Egypt, where shoes said a lot about where you stood in society.

The Hampshire Cultural Trust holds a remarkable collection of historic shoes and boots, which are the focus of an intriguing exhibition that deals with our fascination for footwear. For starters, shoes say a lot about us; not just status but also line of work, hobbies, taste and even aspirations in life.

Containing around 70 pairs – mostly from the 19th and 20th centuries – Shoes also features several very early objects, including a bone skate from the Anglo-Saxon period (10th–11th century) that was found in Winchester, and four pairs of shoes, a couple with matching pattens, dating from the early 1700s.

Left: Women’s “Flapper” evening shoe, Julienne, France (c.1920s). Right: Women’s shoes, Biba, London (c.1970s).

Among the other objects on display are a WWI officer’s trench boots, early 20th-century clogs and a pair of dance shoes from c.1925 in the flapper style. The second half of the 20th century is represented by 1940s–50s utility wear, 1950s stilettos, brothel creepers and platforms that became synonymous with popular culture in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Sports footwear is also on display in the form of ice skates, roller skates, and baseball and basketball shoes from the likes of Converse and Nike.

Shoes are not just about how beautiful, sexy or cool they are. How they are made matters, and for this exhibition, some have been x-rayed and those images will be displayed alongside the corresponding objects to reveal their construction, developments in design and, in some cases, an ethereal reminiscence of a life lived.

Left: X-ray of women’s Victorian pearled button boots, Joseph Box, London (c.1890-1900). X-ray courtesy of the University of Southampton. Right: X-ray of Biba women’s shoe. X-ray courtesy of Hampshire Cultural Trust.

High-heel lovers may be surprised to learn that they originated in Assyria around 700 BC on riding boots, coinciding with the invention of the stirrup, enabling male soldiers to sit more firmly in the saddle and hold heavier weapons. Elizabeth I wore them in an effort to emphasise her princely masculinity. In contrast, the traditional cowboy boot – with its stacked leather heel designed to keep riders comfortable throughout long days in the saddle – is an item of workwear that’s redolent of masculinity.

Left: Mary Quant shoes (c.1960s). Right: women’s wedge shoes by John Galliano (c.2020s).

An exhibition about shoes couldn’t ignore the rise of high-end designers, represented here by a pair of studded Christian Louboutin stilettos and a pair of shoes made by the late British fashion icon Mary Quant. Other famous labels featured include John Galliano, Biba and Liberty.

For more information and tickets, HERE.

SHOES: INSIDE OUT

The Gallery at The Arc. Jewry Street, Winchester SO23 8SB

This exhibition runs until 6th March 2024

Words: Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Opening image: “Alti” stiletto shoes, Christian Louboutin (c.2000-2015).

Becoming who you are

In Venice, Oscar-winning director Sofia Coppola sat down with Pete Carroll to discuss the inspiration behind her upcoming film Priscilla, and why she was drawn to Priscilla Presley’s life story.

Sofia Coppola has always made powerful films that evolve around strong but often isolated and lonely characters whose true personalities and lives are revealed as the movie unfolds. Priscilla Presley, the ex-wife and widow of Elvis Presley – one of the most significant cultural figures of the 20th century and the king of rock ’n’ roll – absolutely fit that description and, understandably, piqued Coppola’s interest.

“I was just surprised by her story and connected to the fact that it was such an unusual setting,” Coppola says, perhaps alluding to her own atypical upbringing. “I didn’t know she was going to high school when she lived at Graceland. I can’t imagine what that was like. I’m talking about universal things that all women can all relate to, such as going into womanhood or becoming a mother and especially, at her time, being expected to stay at home while men went off, did their own thing and had fun. Just the stress of meeting all those expectations.”

“I’ve always been interested in how people become who they are, and how their identity emerges through the choices they make.”

       – Sofia Coppola

MKX

From the beginning it was clear to Coppola that she wanted to tell the story from Priscilla’s point of view and connect with her humanity, not just her celebrity. And the film does exactly that, depicting Priscilla’s loneliness at Graceland – which was not unlike Marie Antoinette’s at Versailles. “I’ve always been interested in how people become who they are, and how their identity emerges through the choices they make,” Coppola says. “So when I was starting to think about this story, I considered whether it would be too similar to Marie Antoinette’s – but I realised that it was a completely different world, and I was curious to find out how Priscilla became herself living in that rarefied context.”

Like most women in the 1970s, Priscilla didn’t have a career or her own money; she was entirely dependent on her husband. “She is from my mother’s generation,” Coppola says. “And I know [she] struggled with trying to have her own creative life.” After pausing for a moment, she adds, “I look at my daughters and think of the difference in the roles of women from the time of my mom to now… but on the other hand, I still see women that totally defer to their husband and what their husband wants.”

Cailee Spaeny as Priscilla and Jacob Elordi as Elvis in Sofia Coppola’s Priscilla.

Casting for Priscilla was a challenge, Coppola says: Priscilla, because she had to carry the entire film; and Elvis, because he’s an icon. “I wanted just one actress to play Priscilla from the ages of 14 to 29, and that’s not easy.” Her team had brought Cailee Spaeny to her attention; and Kirsten Dunst, who had just worked with Spaeny, also recommended her.

Going for an unknown actor can be an advantage in that they don’t have baggage; they come to the audience purely as the character. “Also,” Coppola adds, “it gets tiring to have the same few actors in everything. That often happens because to get financing you need the same five people. Therefore, it was a blessing to be allowed to cast someone like Cailee.”

Choosing the right actor to play Elvis was even more daunting. Since Coppola couldn’t find anyone who looked like him, she went for “the essence of Elvis,” she says. The decision to cast Jacob Elordi was sealed when she met him in a restaurant and all the women turned around to look at him. “I thought he had as much charm and charisma as I imagine Elvis had,” Coppola says. “But I also felt that he had the sensitivity to show the vulnerable Elvis, the person he was in his private life.”

YOU CAN READ THIS INTERVIEW IN FULL IN OUR WINTER ISSUE. GET YOUR COPY HERE.

Priscilla will be released in UK cinemas on 1st January. Her book Archive is available now through Mack Books.

Interview: Pete Carroll / The Interview People

Post-production: Edwin Ingram