Toys

The Mechanics of a Moving Sky

Roger Dubuis debuts its Rarities programme, a vehicle for one-offs and client-led projects with the Moonlight Excalibur, a watch that feels like a technical and visual exercise pushed to its limits. The RD115 calibre (is the star of the horological show) sits literally at the centre of it. The tourbillon is placed in the middle of the dial, forcing everything else to work around it. Traditional hands are abandoned in favour of rotating discs for the hours and minutes, which circle the movement rather than point across it. It is not the easiest way to display time, but it is coherent. The mechanics behind it are ingeniously thought through, with a reworked gear train and a separate system to disengage the discs when setting the watch. At the heart of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Moonlight, a hand-engraved lunar tourbillon anchors a celestial stage of rotating Murano-glass discs that orbit the dial to track time through luminescent constellations. All of the above could have resulted in a lot of visual noise, but Roger Dubuis has handled it with intelligence and panache. The dial is built...

Chanel Turns Chess into High Watchmaking

Chanel has always been at its most compelling when it builds a world rather than a product (think then No5 universe, the Chanel suit, the lion motif…). Gabrielle Chanel understood this early on. Her apartment at 31 rue Cambon was not simply a place to live, but a carefully composed environment of symbols and references, […]

Collectors Are Paying More For Enamel Than Ever

In 2017, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarded the Special Jury Prize to Suzanne Rohr and Anita Porchet for their lifetime achievements in the art of enamelling. The then president of GPHG, Aurel Bac, highlighted in his speech how the artists’ extraordinary dedication to horological artistry is creating a significant legacy in high-end […]

Mastery Across Icons, Complications and Craft

Patek Philippe arrived at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year with 20 new references, including four limited Nautilus anniversary editions. As if this was not impressive enough, the esteemed Geneva-based power house released an awe-inspiring display of artisanal skills in their annual Rare Handcrafts exhibition.  Within the confines of this review article, it is not […]

Bold Ideas, Rarefied Watchmaking

Once a year, the horological world descends on Geneva for Watches and Wonders. It is a week where trends are set, appetites are whet and the timepieces that will generate column inches for the year ahead are finally seen in the metal. There was much to love at Patek Philippe. A gorgeous Ellipse with a […]

“Art of Art’s Sake” at Its Very Best

Many years ago, I gifted my husband a Bvlgari chronograph he loved but rarely wore. When I asked why, he said, “There’s too much going on for me to read the time.” I started to pay attention and realised that, in the world of luxury watches, telling the time is often not the most important […]

A Coachbuilt Future Shaped by Silence

There is a moment, early in the story of Project Nightingale, when Rolls-Royce engineers describe hearing birdsong with unusual clarity while driving a prototype. It is an almost throwaway detail, but it is one that says everything about the car. Not performance figures, not speed, not even design. Just sound, or rather, the absence of […]

Celestial Drama with Vintage Discipline

Furlan Marri has made a habit of punching above its weight and the new Mechaquartz Meteorite is a great example of it. Meteorite dials are not new, but they are normally the star of the show; here, the cosmic material is just half the story. The compact, vintage-style chronograph that adorns is an exemplary lesson […]

The Beauty of the Grid

Bell & Ross has never been shy about geometry, but the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor takes that long-standing square obsession into an even more interesting territory. The new skeletonised version of the familiar BR-03 formula is an attempt to make the case, the movement and the aesthetics speak the same language. The result is one of the […]

A Limited Chronograph with Vintage Weight

Created to mark the brand’s 50th anniversary, the Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty is a seriously considered proposition. Limited to 50 pieces, this is a compact, elegantly proportioned chronograph powered by restored Valjoux 23-6 movements dating from 1976, the very year the Maison was founded. That decision changes everything. Instead of reaching for an off-the-shelf […]

Nifty Gadgets for Work, Travel and Everything in Between

Modern working life rarely stands still and the right technology can make all the difference. Whether it is blocking out noise, keeping track of essentials, recording ideas or organising daily gear, these selection of smart accessories are built to make busy days run more smoothly and nicely. BOWERS & WILKINS Px8 S2 McLaren Edition Headphones […]

Jacob & Co. Unveils Its Angel Cut

Jacob & Co. has never been a shy brand. Their watches are mechanical spectacles combining extreme horological complications with high-jewellery opulence. The Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut is the latest example of a theatrical timepiece by the maison that excels in “The art of the impossible”. The new watch introduces something genuinely new: the patented […]

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