With a career in perfumery spanning nearly three decades, Olivier Polge is a legend in the business. The man responsible for fragrances of global fame such as Christian Dior Homme and Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb (both 2005) has been at the helm of the Chanel Laboratory of Fragrance Creation for a decade. Julia Pasarón travelled to Paris to discover his new creation, Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif, and to learn why Timothée Chalamet is the man to embody it.

Following his father Jacques Polge’s footsteps, Olivier became Chanel’s fourth in-house perfumer since N°5 was created in 1921. His formal training began at Charabot in Grasse, followed by International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) until 2013, when he joined Chanel to succeed his father in 2015.

Under his direction, Chanel has launched nearly 28 fragrances, including N°5 L’Eau in 2016. Speaking with his velvety French accent, Olivier explains, “Strangely, I think it’s easier to create something based on a very strong icon such as N°5 than to create something from scratch. The challenge was isolating the key raw materials and choosing the fewest needed to suggest N°5. It was a way to play with its strong identity.”

“Smell is the first sense we develop, the most basic. It has unparalleled power to evoke memories.”

             – Olivier Polge

When he speaks, Olivier moves his hands elegantly, like a conductor. His passion for music permeates his work, often referring to notes and chords in fragrance formulas. He laughs, “There are no direct links from one perfume to one piece of music, but they share the same spirit. They both have chords and notes, that’s true; they both flow through the air; and have a comparable effect on us – they foster imagination and impact our senses.”

Olivier sees his work as rooted in aesthetics, with a good dose of instinct. “I think it’s more about craftsmanship. I’m not a chemist,” he explains. “Smell is the first sense we develop, the most basic. It has unparalleled power to evoke memories.”

This philosophy led to his development of Bleu de Chanel Parfum in 2018. Originally launched in 2010 as eau de toilette, followed by eau de parfum in 2014, Olivier stripped the fragrance to its bare ingredients and introduced new elements like lavender and sandalwood. This radical simplification created a more natural Bleu de Chanel that became a top seller immediately.

The Birth of L’Exclusif

So after just seven years, why give it another facelift? He doesn’t hesitate. “For some time, there’s been increased demand for stronger, deeper fragrances for men, entering territory previously reserved for women’s perfumes.” Olivier’s response is the new Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif. “I wanted to push density and texture to levels we usually reserve for women’s extrait de parfum,” he explains. “I think men expect that today.”

Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif and the man chosen by the iconic French house to represent it: Timothée Chalamet, an audacious actor, who, like the fragrance, challenges conventional masculinity.

Bleu L’Exclusif represents the evolution of the Chanel man – a contemporary figure who, like Timothée Chalamet, is masculine, attractive and sensual, yet possesses a quiet vulnerability. “These men expect their scent to make a strong statement,” Olivier declares.

However, Olivier believes we’re beyond gender assignment for fragrances. “We’re playing differently with perfume now; women like men’s scents and vice versa.” He smiles, “Strangely enough, a masculine scent can bring out the femininity of the woman wearing it.”

The Olfactory Composition

The building blocks of Bleu L’Exclusif start with a new sandalwood developed exclusively by Chanel – New Caledonian – which during extraction isn’t heated as much as other varieties, releasing a warmer scent. “This is very important because it centres all the woods,” Olivier explains, adding with a smile, “There’s complexity, like in an extract, but hopefully not too much. It’s a concentrate of exceptional raw materials.”

“In Bleu L’Exclusif, there’s complexity, like in an extract, but hopefully not too much. It’s a concentrate of exceptional raw materials.”

             – Olivier Polge

Returning to his orchestra simile, the sensuality of sandalwood gives tone to the scent, while cedarwood provides depth. The aromatic notes – lavender bringing freshness and cleanliness – lead this olfactory arrangement.

Another key instrument is Cistus Labdanum, an aromatic resin from rockrose that adds depth and sensuality. “The combination of New Caledonian Sandalwood and Cistus Labdanum forms the key accord of Bleu L’Exclusif,” shares Olivier, “a woody central note that evolves into something darker, more leathery.”

The New Identity

The new Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif sits in a bottle that, while immediately recognisable, is strikingly different. The blue colour shifts constantly – from certain angles appearing almost black, from others having the depth and intensity of a stormy sea. Much stockier than its predecessor, Olivier perfectly captures its meaning: “The heavier proportions express the density and richness of this new perfume. As with many things in life, minor changes often have major impact.”

“The heavier proportions of the bottle express the density and richness of this new perfume.”

             – Olivier Polge

With 30 years of accomplishments and several awards recognising his talent, Olivier Polge has definitely made his mark in perfumery. Still, this isn’t enough. “One is always thinking of the next perfume,” he concludes with an enigmatic smile.

Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif at chanel.com

Author: Julia Pasarón

Discover much more about Olivier Polge in our exclusive interview in the winter issue of I-M Inquisitive Minds, available to pre-order at a special early bird price, HERE.