Nostalgia seems to be influencing everything these days, from fashion to accessories, homeware, interior design and even travel destinations. The allure of a rose-tinted past blended with contemporary touches has given place to the rise of a retro-chic culture that we are bringing you here in the form of a selection of gifts for Father’s Day that we hope you find inspiring.  

MAISON GAMES BACKGAMMON SET

Backgammon is one of the oldest board games known to mankind. Played by kings, paupers, artists and thieves, few games have a richer history than Backgammon. From Cary Grant to Brad Pitt, Mick Jagger to Keira Knightley, the game is more popular than ever.

The Amalfi coast backgammon set is adorned with bougainvillea flowers, transporting you to the colourful cliffside village of Positano.

British luxury brand, Maison Games has partnered with Misty Minton (CasaCarta) to offer its customers a collection of travel backgammon sets inspired by some of the most fashionable travel destinations of the 1960s. You have mountain destinations such as Aspen and Gstaad, and iconic beach spots such as St Barth and the Amalfi Coast and even the celebrity packed Beverly Hills. All come in charming gift boxes. Take your pick HERE.

RIMOWA HAMMERSCHLAG LIMITED EDITION 

We love this ultra-hardy, super-cool cabin and hand-carry case set by Rimowa. The collection’s name, meaning “hammer hit”, references the textured aluminium surface that the German luxury luggage manufacturer debuted in 1966.

Both cabin suitcase and the hand-carry case feature an iteration of the original cognac leather handle, the same material from which the tag – each stamped with the date 1898, the year Rimowa was founded – was made. The dual-organisation interior is adorned with a leather zipped compartment on its divider as well as vintage hooks with compression straps. Each piece from the 1898 limited edition is individually numbered. The trolley includes a telescopic handle and multi-wheel system. You can find both at Rimowa and other retailers.

HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL BRONZE

Military-style accessories always have a bit of a cool retro look. The new Hamilton’s Khaki Field models are no different from their case size – 38mm – to the simple dial design with large numerals, aimed at being easy to read in any weather/light conditions. I have picked the bronze model, as this material, together with the brown leather strap truly echoes the watches made by Hamilton for the military forces of several countries, including the U.S. and Great Britain.

Bronze is also a very hardy alloy, robust and resistant to corrosion, making this watch the perfect choice for a dad who enjoys the outdoors. The white dial (new option) creates a striking contrast with the bronze and leather. As all the other models in the Khaki Field Mechanical family, this one is hand-wound, powered by Hamilton’s H-50 movement and boasts an 80-hour power reserve. Available at Watches of Switzerland and other retailers.

BERLUTI MIX LEATHER BOMBERS

The bomber jacket has its origins in military clothing. It was designed to keep pilots warm, but it had to be also light. They go in and out of fashion regularly and this year, they are definitely in.

Berluti’s latest version takes the concept up by a few notches. It is made of the finest Italian leather and suede, and fully lined in Scritto jacquard cupro. It features a two-way zip opening with one jour leather puller, two front pockets and a knitted collar, cuffs and bottom. I love the little “B” thread embroidery on the chest (heart side). Buy it from Berluti and boutiques at luxury stores.

MONTBLANC MEISTERSTÜCK ORIGIN DOUÉ CLASSIQUE FOUNTAIN PEN

We couldn’t possibly speak about retro-inspired gifts for Father’s Day without including a fountain pen. Unlike in a biro, the ink in a fountain pen flows naturally and the nib adapts to your style of writing to the point that nobody else can really use it comfortably. Each has its own identity, connected to its owner and reflecting its personal style.

Montblanc has become eponymous with the best fountain pens. The Meisterstück collection (a masterpiece in German) celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. For a century, it has been regarded by most as the quintessential fine writing instrument, and the choice of many international dignitaries, captains of industry and world leaders, including Queen Elizabeth II. To celebrate such a milestone, the German luxury brand has launched the Origin collection, drawing inspiration from its rich archives. In fact, the intricate pattern on the green lacquer gold-coated cap, comes from a design from decades ago, that never made it into production. The references to Art Déco are complemented by the clip, which is the same as in many of the earliest models of the Meisterstück. This anniversary edition comes with a solid gold nib, displaying the number 100, along with the years 1924 and 2024. For Father’s Day, Montblanc is including express shipping for free when you buy it directly from Montblanc.

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening image: Kaysha / Pexels

Despite having more access than ever before to information, everyone in the UK seems to be massively uneducated about sex. Erotic events company House of Vixens’ Creative Director and founder Sophie Cohen explains how we can become far better informed about our sexuality as adults. 

Navigating the subject of sexual pleasure can often feel like traversing a labyrinth of shame, rejection, embarrassment and loneliness. In our society, the subject of sexual pleasure is often shrouded in silence or distorted by taboos. It becomes even more complex when it is compounded by layers of religious or cultural shame, past traumas, fertility concerns, ageing, menopause, and issues surrounding sexual and gender identity. Yet, if we can overcome our internalised guilt and insecurity about this topic, our sexuality can offer us one of the most profound and beautiful expressions of our humanity. The question therefore is: how can we break free from these shackles and embrace our sexual selves with confidence and authenticity? 

Let’s start by trying to establish what is the essence of sexual pleasure. The Global Advisory Board for Sexual Health and Wellbeing says that sexual pleasure encompasses myriad “physical and psychological satisfactions” and is facilitated by factors such as self-determination, consent, safety, privacy, confidence, and effective communication. It emphasises the importance of social and cultural conditions upholding sexual rights, such as equality, autonomy, bodily integrity and freedom of expression. While this definition provides a framework for understanding, it feels a little dispassionate. I think we need more visceral inspiration to ignite passion in the bedroom. 

So, how do we find that inspiration to begin unravelling years of internalised shame? I work with individuals and couples to explore and untangle this thorny question and, while I can’t claim to have a one-size-fits-all solution, I have some general guidelines to set you on the right path. 

First and foremost, I would suggest looking for an answer to this question: what is your relationship with self-pleasure? Understanding and embracing your own pleasure is vital before you can start expecting your partner to do the same. I encourage people to cultivate a dedicated self-pleasure practice, exploring what brings you delight and what doesn’t. This might feel challenging, but I recommend trying to tap into the flow of your sexuality, exploring how factors such as your emotional state, hormonal fluctuations, stress levels and even the time of day influence your self-pleasure experience. Experiment with different sensations, using the variety of toys available – which are now tailored to a diverse range of bodies and genders – and quality lubricants, which can enhance your comfort and enjoyment. 

I usually suggest that people keep a journal documenting their fantasies and desires: there are no wrong answers, and no daydreams are off-limits. Delving into the depths of your fantasies will help you identify ones you could seek out in real life. Engage in a dialogue with yourself, fostering your curiosity and self-awareness. This will pave the way for open communication with your partner. Think about the words or movements you might use to tell or show them how to touch you or talk to you in the way you are picturing in your imagination.  

Communicating with your partner is essential for a healthy sexual relationship. Openness and honesty with each other can lead to great sexual satisfaction. Photo © Cottonbro / Pexels Stock Photography.

When you are exploring desires with a partner, good communication is paramount. Whether you do this using email, text, voice notes, or shared diaries, it can be fun and revelatory to establish a mode of communication that allows everyone to share freely. Share your fantasies in a manner that allows your partner to fully absorb and understand them, identifying points of alignment and potential divergence. Explore areas of compromise and creativity, seeking mutually satisfying experiences that honour each other’s boundaries and comfort levels. 

While it might not sound sexy, a little academic research in this process can be beneficial. If you’re struggling to know what to fantasise about, or how to find the words to describe something you’d like, you might find some pointers in books such as My Secret Garden – which you might enjoy reading with a partner for inspiration, or on your own while folding a corner of a page for someone else to find later. I also recommend Erika Lust’s sex education blog and Spectrum Boutique for practical advice on toys. If you’re curious about the history of sex, try Tomorrow Sex Will Be Good Again, which is a great solo read for anyone interested in women’s experiences, and A Curious History of Sex for a frank and amusing look at how we ended up where we are with our sexuality.  

Books can be an excellent source of information about sex and sexual behaviour and a way to initiate communication with your partner.

When you have sex, prioritise communication before, during, and afterwards, ensuring that both partners feel heard, respected and valued. Try to embrace the art of foreplay and recognise its significance in fostering arousal and intimacy. Establish safe words as a means of establishing trust and ensuring consent throughout sexual exploration. Vocalise your desires and preferences, guiding your partner towards pleasuring you in ways that bring fulfilment and satisfaction. 

Post-sex communication is just as vital. Discuss your needs and desires openly and talk about the experience. Whether it involves cuddling, conversation, or simply basking in the afterglow together, the time after sex can be a creative and mutually intimate space. Incorporate each other’s preferences into your sexual repertoire, nurturing a sense of shared understanding and appreciation. 

“In the vast expanse of human experience, few endeavours rival the exhilarating journey of sexual discovery and fulfilment.”

                 – Sophie Cohen

Ultimately, the foundation of fulfilling sexual experiences lies in a commitment to communication and pleasure, both individual and shared. Whether you’re embarking on a solo journey of self-discovery or exploring new frontiers with a partner, I recommend that you try to prioritise authenticity, empathy and understanding. Embrace the boundless potential of sexual exploration as a transformative journey of self-discovery and interpersonal connection. After all, in the vast expanse of human experience, few endeavours rival the exhilarating journey of sexual discovery and fulfilment. I have never known a better trip than getting lost in space and time with myself or a lover. So, let go of inhibition, embrace your erotic creativity, and embark on this extraordinary voyage with passion and enthusiasm.  

Words: Sophie Cohen

Sophie Cohen is the Creative Director of House of Vixens, a company dedicated to the world of erotic storytelling. She also runs the Mandrake Salon at the Mandrake Hotel in London and offers one-to-one private lessons. Find out more by emailing: info@houseofvixens.com 

Opening photo © Armstrong Brothers / Alamy Stock Photography

As holidays end and the festive glow fades away, many of us find ourselves looking in the mirror and realising that there is a price to pay for the Christmas excesses. Redness, dry skin, and opaque complexion are just a few of the consequences of a couple of weeks of indulging on alcohol, rich foods and sweets. Fortunately, as the skincare industry evolves, better and faster products are launched, which deliver results nothing short of miraculous. We have chosen a few for you, all of which have been tested by members of our team during a period of four weeks.

IRENE FORTE PHYTOMELATONIN REJUVENATING SERUM

This is one of those products that will become a staple of your bathroom cabinet, whichever your skin type, as it targets all the usual signs of skin ageing: pigmentation, enlarged pores, wrinkles and frailness. The key ingredient in this serum is as Alpine Plant Melatonin (APM), a form of phytomelatonin, a powerful natural antioxidant derivative of the amino acid tryptophan, which plays a fundamental role as a precursor of proteins, among them collagen. Phytomelatonin also counteracts the degenerative effects of UV exposure and other stressors.

Irene Forte Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating serum contains APM at 70 percent concentration and vitamin E at 30 percent.

Irene Forte Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum works at molecular level to increase the vitality of skin cells, and their ability to regulate biochemical processes. Within ten days, we appreciated a softening of lines and a brighter complexion. After eight weeks, there was a clear reduction of wrinkle volume and pores, fading of pigmentation and increased elasticity.

Fear not if you have sensitive skin as clinical tests prove that this rich, unctuous serum soothes and calms the skin. Irene Forte Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum retails at  £225 (15ml) and is exclusively available at IRENE FORTE. 

111 SKIN CELESTIAL BLACK DIAMOND RETINOL OIL

We’ve been very fond of 111 Skin products for a very long time. The whole range has been developed following rigorous scientific research and the latest technology. Retinol has been long known to encourage fibroblasts to synthesize collagen, improve skin elasticity, increase the proliferation of skin cells and promote the formation of new blood vessels.

However, retinol is also known to irritate the skin. That’s why its formulation is very important and why 111 Skin Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil stands out. Despite the high concentration of retinol in this oil (2.5 percent blend of retinol and granactive retinoid, both a derivative of Vitamin A, one of most efficient compounds in preventing and reversing the signs of ageing and sun damage), no irritation has been reported in any of the clinical tests.

111 Skin Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil is best used in the evening, starting with three times a week, before using it every night, to safely increase tolerance.

Within a week, we noticed the skin brighter and smoother. After four weeks, there was an obvious reduction in the depth of wrinkles and fine lines, almost as if you had used botox. Areas with hyperpigmentation also benefited from the use of this retinol oil, especially after eight weeks. Always use SPF 50 when using any products with retinol. Find 111 Skin Celestial Black Diamond Retinol (30ml) at 111 SKIN and HARVEY NICHOLS among other retailers for £190.

GOLD COLLAGEN INSTANT GLOW SERUM

In its 15 years in the market, Gold Collagen has established itself in the market as the go-to brand for effective collagen oral supplementation. Now the same company offers a full skincare range that it is proving to be as successful as its liquid wonder. We tried Gold Collagen Instant Glow Serum. The texture is light and very pleasant, and the immediate effect is that of an illuminator. No wonder “glow” and “instant” are part of its name. After a few days, the benefits extended to less redness and the physical sensation of the skin being deeply hydrated. As the weeks went by, we also noticed and improvement on elasticity, a more uniformed tone, a much less congested complexion and pores that appeared visibly reduced.

Gold Collagen Instant Glow Serum contains a vitamin complex that illuminates the skin on the outside and nourishes it from the inside.

Key ingredients include niacinamide, known to help combat inflammation, regulate the skin’s natural grease secretion and improve elasticity. Vitamin C also helps to reduce inflammation, increases luminosity and works as an antioxidant; as does Vitamin E, fighting free radicals besides its role as photoprotector and natural moisturiser.

How you apply it also seems to help. We were asked to do so by massaging it into the skin from the centre of the face outwards, finishing on the chin; and on the neck, from the bottom up and outwards. Gold Collagen Glow Serum (30ml, £36) is available directly from GOLD COLLAGEN and JOHN BELL & CROYDEN among other retailers.

DR GABRIELA MAGIC VITAMIN BOOSTER SERUM

This is a product that made my jaw dropped to the ground. Dr Gabriela tested it on half my face while we were chatting. Fifteen minutes later, that half of my face had visible lifted, was plumper and brighter. Dr Gabriela tells me that the secret of her skincare range is the intense moisturising properties of molecular water. This unique ingredient penetrates each and every cell to deeply hydrate and rejuvenate skin from the inside out, providing moisturisation for up to 72 hours after application. Other key ingredients include low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, vitamin A, panthenol, and essential fatty acids.

After just one application, Dr Gabriela Magic Vitamin Booster Serum leaves the skin looking visible lifted, plumper and brighter.

By using it daily morning and evening, the serum restores hydration and creates the optimum conditions for cell renewal and collagen production. A second layer of hyaluronic acid coats the surface of the skin, sealing in moisture. The stunning results from the first application kept getting better with regular use. After two weeks, our face looked younger and more luminous, and after four, it was significantly lifted, plumper, and the skin felt more elastic. Dr Gabriela Magic Vitamin Booster Serum £299 (30ml) is exclusively available from DR GABRIELA SKINCARE.

CRYSTAL CLEAR PHARMA GRADE HYALURONIC SERUM

From one instant miracle to the next. Here the star is hyaluronic acid, a compound widely recognised for the role it plays in cell renewal and the proliferation of fibroblasts, which translates into its famous properties to increase skin elasticity and plumpness and reduce inflammation, i.e, less redness, less scar marks, eyes less puffy. In addition, it works wonders on joints and helps wounds heal faster.

Now… not all types of hyaluronic acid are the same. Crystal Clear’s contains high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid at 98 percent. The high weight form provides an instant burst of hydration, to instantly plump and firm the skin; the low molecular weight form reaches deeper layers of the skin and bind moisture. This helps the skin cells to get tighter together so by the time they reach the surface, this new skin is much more luminous, elastic and bouncy.

Crystal Clear Pharma Grade Hyaluronic Acid contains high and low molecular forms of this miracle compound to renew and hydrate the skin from the inside out.

The first time we used it, we noticed that our skin felt plumper and hydrated and it looked as if we had used a top primer: pores and lines appeared reduced and our face glowed. Over four weeks, the skin seemed to stay hydrated for longer, eye puffiness had disappeared, and overall, the whole face and neck had lifted, felt tighter, and wrinkles and lines had been reduced, giving way to a fuller, thicker, more supple skin. Crystal Clear Pharma Grade Hayluronic Serum (30ml, £84) is available at CRYSTAL CLEAR and THE SKIN BAR among other retailers.

UKLASH EYELASH SERUM

This is a product we tried a while ago and are still raving about it. This powerful serum targets short and brittle eyelashes with spectacular results. It may not have the immediate results of the other products featured in this article, but your patience will pay off after just four weeks, and if you are constant for a few more, you’ll be seriously impressed. In our case, we stopped using it after eight weeks as our eyelashes had grown really long… almost too much! Uklash states “up to 55 percent longer and 75% more voluminous” but also warns that the results may differ from person to person, which makes sense.

With daily application, Uklash Eyelash Serum delivers real results in less than a month. Afterwards, using it 3-4 times a week is recommended for maintenance.

Some of the ingredients that contribute to the stunning effects of this serum include Biotin, which is a vitamin vital for healthy hair growth; myristoyl pentapeptide-17, a compound that stimulate keratin genes; green tea extract, also proven to help with hair growth thanks to its high content in a polyphenol with a name impossible to pronounce; and vitamin B5, which is known to restructure the hair fibre by filling in the hair scales.

Now, don’t be tempted to put more than what is recommended. It is true that it feels as if there is hardly any product on the brush, but one dip applied to the eyeline (top and bottom) is enough for both eyes. Massaging the eyelids may also help (we did). Uklash Eyelash Serum (3ml, £39) is available at UKLASH and SEPHORA, among other retailers.

Although all these products have been tested by our team and delivered positive results, we always recommend you exercise caution when trying something new on your skin.

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening photo by Anna Shvets for Pexels.

Like with diets, one of the issues about beauty protocols is that they often take some time to show results. While we are all aware that patience is the virtue of the strong, it is reassuring and encouraging when we can see visible improvements from the first session. As such, at I-M Intelligent Magazine, we have been researching what is available out there and bring you here four treatments, all tried and tested by members of our team, which delivered results from the very first session.

REJUVOLOGY

Despite its tongue-twisting name, Rejuvology is a beauty protocol that relies in very simple principles. Anchored on the power of massage to stimulate circulation, lymphatic drainage and muscle elasticity, Rejuvology goes back to basics, without the need for any machines or injectables, just the therapist’s hands and massage oils. Over 20 years of clinical practice and studies, founder Abigail James has crafted a unique facial rejuvenation technique, drawing from ancient and modern therapies, that transcends the boundaries of traditional treatments. Abigail skilfully works head, neck, and face, to revive facial contour and support emotional well-being.

Rejuvology massage works on the skin, fascia, nervous, muscular, circulatory and lymphatic systems and helps to balance the flow of the body’s energy.

After just one 60-minute session, we noticed a palpable improvement in the plumpness and suppleness of the skin, relaxation of tension lines, a dazzling glow and an evident lift of the bottom half of the face.

Abigail suggests an initial course of 4-6 treatments, a couple of weeks from each other, to achieve optimum results, which include, but are not limited to, increased suppleness, tightness on the face contour, lifting, reduced puffiness, softening of facial lines and, at an emotional level, better sleep, reduced anxiety and stress, and an increase in energy. For maintenance, Abigail recommends a monthly session. You can learn more about Rejuvology and make a booking HERE.

SKINSTORM FACIAL

Developed by Sharon Hilditch MBE, the founder of Crystal Clear Skincare, Skinstorm is an all-in-one facial starring dissolvable pure oxygen and cryotherapy. It consists of six steps and takes less than 90 minutes and is completely painless. The treatment starts with the Hurricane Oxy Ice Cleanse, to lift dirt and dead cells, as well as kill bacteria. The second focuses on resurfacing and healing, using a unique microdermabrasion technique combined with light therapy to improve skin texture and reduce pigmentation, scarring and acne.

Step 3: Oxy Ice Peel & Oxy Blast, the only peel in the market that combines dissolved oxygen and cryo temperatures to destress the skin and protect against any irritation.

The Oxy Ice Peel and Anti-Acne Bacterialization Peel follows, which leaves the skin refreshed and congestion-free, ready for a micro-needling roller, that pushes chilled serum with dissolvable oxygen into the skin. The micro-injuries created by the roller encourage fibroblasts to produce collagen, whilst their patented Hylo-Filler drone serum hydrates and plumps the skin.

The fifth step is like a filler – minus the needle and the pain – reducing crow’s feet, sagging skin and giving your lips a significant boost. It works by delivering hyaluronic acid and their patented F10 at high pressure to add extra “bounce” to your skin. Last, Tri-Fusion Light Therapy; using red, blue and near-infrared light helps the skin to heal, kill bacteria and reduce pigmentation, all factors that contribute to the rejuvenation of the skin. The cold mask that is applied before going under the lamp, leaves the skin refreshed and with no signs of redness or inflammation whatsoever.

In an ideal world, you’d do a Skinstorm facial every month, but the results are so amazing and lasting, that we’d dare say that, unless you have an acute issue with your skin, one every two months would be enough to uphold the benefits. More information and bookings HERE.

THERMAGE FLX LIP LIFT

Developed by Dr Rita Rakus, known in London as the “lip queen”, Thermage FLX is a treatment that uses radiofrequency (RF) to reach the deepest layers of the skin with targeted pulses of energy. The heat from RF stimulates the production of collagen, which in turn, tightens and plumps the skin. It can be used in both face and body. On this occasion, we focused on the lip, as this is a completely new use of Thermage FLX and one that works a treat. The lips are one of the parts of our anatomy that first suffer loss of collagen and fat as we age (as early as 25). As a result, they kind of “implode” inwards, look thinner and fine lines start to appear.

“By using Thermage FLX on the mouth area, we can lift and tighten the skin above the cupid’s bow to add volume and tighten, smooth, and plump the skin on the lips.”

 

         –  Dr Rita Rakus

The treatment takes less than 30 minutes and there is no pain at all, just a feeling of warmth and, on occasion, very localised heat. There isn’t any redness or inflammation either, which means no downtime at all. You’ll notice an immediate lift of your upper lip and it will look and feel plumper, without the pneumatic effect of many fillers. The effect is actually extremely natural, and one treatment is enough for a long time.

Thermage FLX is a favourite among celebrities, including Karren Brady, Gwyneth Paltrow, and even boxer Floyd Mayweather. More information and details on how to make an appointment with Dr Rita Rakus, HERE.

MORPHEUS8 3D

Launched in 2020, Morpheus8 also uses RF to a depth of 8mm through 40 micro-needles and can be used in both face and body. In 2023, they released a new body applicator for the 3D upgrade, which helps provide a more homogeneous treatment.

It works by delivering three incremental depths of penetration radiofrequency waves, aiming to reinforce the structural matrix of the dermis and subdermal adipose tissue, at the same time it encourages the production of new collagen. As the needles are gold plated – which provides insulation – all the energy goes to the targeted areas, in our case, the lower tummy.

Although the results are more noticeable after a few weeks, improvements can be appreciated immediately after the first session with Morpheus 8 3D, especially an increased tightness of the skin.

This remodelling treatment is very efficient. A few days after the first session, we could see an increased tightness of the skin of the tummy, which continued to improve over the next couple of weeks, also revealing a smoother appearance. If you are looking at getting rid of some localised fat though, you’ll have to wait until at least the second session to appreciate the difference.

A course of three sessions is the minimum recommended and we would also advise you to do so, as otherwise you may be disappointed. The treatment is painful and, although local anaesthetic is given, you must be prepared to feel very sore and have the treated area red and with the marks of the micro-needles for several days. That said, Morpheus8 3D is very safe and a favourite among aesthetic clinicians worldwide.

Morpheus8 3D is available at many clinics and beauty practises. Make sure that there is a qualified clinician where you go, otherwise, they won’t be able to apply local anaesthetic. I-M Intelligent Magazine visited Ambra Clinic, in North London, led by Dr Maryam McMillan. More information and bookings HERE.

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening image: © Antoni Shkraba

Smell is one of the most powerful senses. It can create an identity, evoke memories, bring back a forgotten emotion…

Most people have a favourite fragrance for the spring-summer and a different one for the colder months of the year, usually heavier and sweeter. Our deputy editor Lavinia Dickson-Robinson asked perfumer Linda Pilkington, founder of Ormonde Jayne, about how best to choose a fragrance in winter and the mistakes you shouldn’t make.

“Like with all aspects of fragrance, it’s a personal choice,” says Linda. “Recently, at a perfume trade show, our international partners shared clients are choosing traditionally heavier fragrances in the heat of summer as they have more longevity and evaporate at a slower rate in hot humid climates.”

Formulation has a lot to do with it. Linda explains, “The top notes evaporate first, and the heart and soul of the perfume will linger the longest. Good quality fragrances reveal their notes slowly, and their heart and soul should linger on your clothes the day after. These highly complex formulations are particularly suited to winter fragrances, especially those with resinous amber ingredients, like our Amberesque category.

Tolu and Amberesque by Ormonde Jayne, two very different fragrances but equally well-suited for winter.

However, she warns about overpowering fragrances, those which enter a room before their wearer and occupy the entire space. “As a perfumer, that’s something I always strive to avoid.” 

Still, I want to know if there is such a thing as a seasonal perfume. “Some of our fragrances lend themselves to specific seasons,” says Linda. “Osmanthus, for example, is the epitome of a spring morning, and it’s one I usually only reach for after I see the first buds on our trees. Similarly, when the cooler weather arrives in November, it’s Tolu (120ml, £175) that I prefer. An enveloping scent that sparkles and creates an atmosphere of being wrapped in cashmere, sipping a fine cognac by a roaring fire.”

Since Linda has mentioned how top notes disappear quickly and the importance of the heart and soul of a fragrance to define its character, I ask her to give me an example. “I personally adore Amberesque (88ml, £195), with deep rich resins like tonka, tolu, and frankincense, and spices such as cardamom, and patchouli.” Another category works very well in winter is Oudh, which uses the eponymous oil, traditionally highly prized in the Middle East. “We were the first ones using oud in a parfum,” Linda explains proudly, “it is one of the most expensive raw ingredients in the world, but it has a very sensual dry-down that makes your skin smell enticing and appealing.”

Left, Oud for Greatness by Initio Parfums Privés. Right, Aventus by Creed.

Following a similar route, Oud for Greatness by Initio Parfums Privés (90ml, £305), combines natural oud wood with agar wood oil and spice from saffron and nutmeg to create deeply sensual eau de parfum. It is refreshed with a hint of lavender and patchouli. Despite its force, Oud for Greatness leaves a light sweet woody scent on your skin and clothes once it dries down. Very evocative.

Aventus by Creed (100ml, £295), the brand’s most notable fragrance, also has a woody base (cedar and birch), but the head notes include – apart from classic patchouli – fruits and pink pepper, which makes it fresher than the previous two. The inclusion of ambroxan, Creed’s signature ingredient, takes the edge of the fruity notes and gives this fragrance a long-lasting, velvety finish.

Reducing the woody tones further and dialling up citrus and berries we find Lalique Encre Indigo (100ml, £89), a spirited eau de parfum that starts with woody, smoky ingredients such as ambergris and Korean Jukro black tea, continues with a silky flow of warm Madagascar bay and vetiver oils complemented with spices such as pink peppercorn, Calabrian bergamot and saffron. A combination of sweet and citrus oils such as Sulawasi patchouli, juniper berry and vetiver give it a fresh finish. As the parfum dries, it reveals its long-lasting warm heart.

Smell is a very powerful sense, and often works as a trigger to revisit treasured memories. “We associate so many perfumes with our loved ones. Fragrances like Madame Rochas by Rochas of Calandre by Paco Rabanne echo another time in our life, reminding us of an older generation who played a significant part in our life,” Linda says.

Many of those parfums these days feel a bit “old style” but Linda argues that it is about construction and structure. “You can take those same ingredients and transform them into a composition that enables them to perform and open up. For instance, in our parfum Tolu, we used some soft powdery notes, but the formula opens with sparkling shimmering top notes which gives it this a very modern appeal. Another great example of this is Chanel, a maison that understands the importance of revisiting its perfumes and bringing them back to a younger audience. To do so with Chanel No5, they relaunched it as Chanel No 5 L’Eau (100ml, £136), which appealed to a younger audience by minimising the aldehydes and including fruit and citrus notes instead.”

N°5 L’EAU is a vibrant eau de toilette, in which citrus top notes soar with the aldehydes, followed by a floral breeze of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang, finished with vetiver and cedar.

In her business, Linda is increasingly noticing that people are choosing to have a selection of perfumes, rather than one signature scent for every day of the year. Thus, she encourages us to be brave. She says, “Florals aren’t just for summer. A white floral can be very alluring in snowy months. Notes like freesia, frangipani, and jasmine, which are traditionally associated with summer, can also work in winter.”

Forgive Me by Carine Roitfeld (90ml, £190) uses flowers in its medium and top notes, to balance the fruitiness of tangerine and the spice of pink pepper to deliver an eau de parfum that is as enigmatic as it is alluring. The inclusion of resinous compounds such as labdanum, olibanum and cashmeran help to expand and diffuse its floral ingredients and give it warmth.

As a conclusion, Linda recommends to always ask for a sample before choosing a perfume so you can test it for a few days. “Try a perfume on for a few days, morning and night, and ask your loved ones, friends, and work colleagues for their honest opinion. If you like a perfume, but your family and loved ones can’t abide it, that to me would be a reason enough to choose something else.”

Words: Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Photography: Lina Ress