When the Scottish missionary Dr David Livingstone became the first European to see Victoria Falls in 1855, he could scarcely believe his eyes, exclaiming: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”
We are skimming across the Zimbabwean savannah towards the falls in a helicopter – as you do. In a nod to Livingstone, the aircraft is operated by a company called Flight of Angels. Approaching the cascade, we understand his reaction. There is something undeniably celestial about Victoria Falls. The sight leaves us speechless. It is easy to see why, at 108 metres tall and 1.7 kilometres wide, they are counted among the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, alongside Mount Everest, the Great Barrier Reef and the Grand Canyon.
We swoop low over torrents of white water plunging down sheer basalt walls. Breaking through the rising mist, we pass through rainbows stretched across the chasm. From above, the Zambezi River reveals itself in full: a dark, coiling current, twisting like a black mamba as it approaches the edge.
Straddling the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, the falls are known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya – “the smoke that thunders” – a name that captures their force far better than the one bestowed by Livingstone. Along their vast span, names such as Devil’s Cataract, Boiling Pot and Knife Edge hint at the raw power on display.
Formed by volcanic activity around 180 million years ago, Victoria Falls is considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.
Nature, take a bow.
Yet the falls are only part of the draw to this northwestern corner of Zimbabwe. The five-star Victoria Falls Safari Club is another. Its appeal lies not just in its comfort, but in its setting. Perched on a plateau five kilometres from the falls, it overlooks Zambezi National Park, a vast, unfenced expanse of 56,000 hectares stretching towards Botswana and alive with wildlife.
From the hotel’s terrace, which looks directly onto a busy watering hole, there is little need to go anywhere. Settle into an armchair, lift a pair of binoculars, and the animals come to you.
One morning, over breakfast, an elephant ambles over and lowers its trunk into the water. Soon after, two giraffes appear, bending their long necks with unhurried grace. Watching them arrive, drink and drift away along the game corridor towards the Zambezi River is safari at its most absorbing.
Later, we venture to the discreetly hidden viewing hide, accompanied by a ranger who checks the bush ahead for lions. Up close, the experience is quietly thrilling.
L-R: Giraffe sightings on a walking safari in the Zambezi National Park; elephants at the waterhole in front of the Victoria Falls Safari Club.
Sunset from the west-facing terrace of the restaurant is one of the great pleasures of the stay. As the sky deepens to orange, we dine on dishes such as crocodile carpaccio and quail à la safari.
Dinner is accompanied by a cappella singers who move between tables, performing for small audiences. At our request, they deliver a beautiful version of Homeless from Paul Simon’s Graceland. It feels like a privilege.
The hotel itself is elegant without excess. A butler-style concierge service ensures everything runs smoothly. We are looked after by the excellent – and excellently named – Lookout.
Guests also have access to the neighbouring Safari Lodge, while the Club’s 20 open-plan rooms, decorated in earthy tones, blend easily into the surrounding bushveld.
Game drives offer a different perspective. Shortly after entering the park, we encounter the skeleton of an elephant by the roadside. Our guide, Greemph, explains that the 50-year-old animal died of old age and was stripped bare by scavengers over three weeks. Other elephants, he adds, return to pay their respects.
Club Suites at the Victoria Falls Safari Club are luxurious, boutique-style, open-plan rooms featuring stunning views of the Zambezi National Park from private terraces. Guests in these suites also enjoy the service of a butler.
Further on, by the banks of the Zambezi, two crocodiles lie motionless on small islets. They appear lifeless, but the illusion is part of their method. These ancient predators can remain still for hours before striking with speed and precision. Later, we pass a dazzle – surely one of the best collective nouns – of impalas, their markings earning them the local nickname “Bush McDonald’s”.
Near the park entrance, a sign reads: “Do not drive over balls of dung or dung beetles.” It is a simple reminder that everything here, however small, plays a role in the ecosystem. A healthy bushveld is vital not only for wildlife, but for tourism, Zimbabwe’s third-largest industry. Victoria Falls Safari Club supports this balance through an 18-ranger anti-poaching unit. Without wildlife, there is no tourism, and no future for the region. Their efforts help sustain what is often called Africa’s Eden.
Around us, the landscape continues undisturbed. Animals come and go. The river flows. The smoke still thunders. More than a century after Livingstone first saw them, Victoria Falls remain as arresting as ever.
Author: James Rampton
Thinking of a holiday in warmer latitudes? You may enjoy discovering Grenada’s Gastronomic Renaissance, Golfing in Mauritius with Beachcomber Tours, or indulging in the celebrations of the 100th anniversary of The Boca Raton Resort.
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