Culture

Books in Bloom

This May, Firsts London returns to the Saatchi Gallery with a burst of colour, curiosity, and craftsmanship. The theme? Books in Bloom – a celebration of all things botanical in the world of rare books.

From ancient herbals to avant-garde floral art books, over a hundred rare book dealers from around the globe will gather to showcase the intertwined histories of books and botany. It’s the literary companion to the Chelsea Flower Show, blooming just down the road – but with more vellum and fewer tulips.

Expect everything from medicinal manuscripts to pressed flower albums, poetic tributes to roses, and gorgeously illustrated plant encyclopaedias. Botanical books tell a story far richer than just plants on a page. They chart centuries of exploration, science, superstition, art – and obsession.

Once used to treat fevers and fend off spirits, early plant drawings became tools of classification, trade, and desire. By the Victorian age, they were full-blown objects of beauty, their detailed engravings and watercolours capturing the global explosion of flora newly ‘discovered’ and imported.

Justin Croft Antiquarian has brought an exquisite edition of Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du Mal,…

Britain's most famous luxury car marque brings woodland magic to London Craft Week

At this year’s London Craft Week (12–18 May 2025), Rolls-Royce Motor Cars is bringing a captivating artistic display that reimagines the British countryside in exquisite detail and craftsmanship. Created by artisans at the marque’s Goodwood headquarters, the triptych artwork draws on the flora and fauna of the British Isles, presenting a woodland scene across three […]

Mesmerising mythology at a major new sculpture exhibition in Norfolk

Mythological beasts stalk the grounds of Houghton Hall – in a good way. The stately home in Norfolk is presenting Stephen Cox: Myth, an absorbing new exhibition of the work of the British sculptor. Arranged across the park gardens and interiors, this is the most comprehensive retrospective ever of the Royal Academician’s sculpture. Covering more […]

The alternative art scene of Barcelona

Considered the most international of the Spanish cities, Barcelona developed a significant arts community in the late 1800s, with artists like Santiago Rusiñol – one of the leaders of the Catalan modernism movement – Ramón Casas and, of course, Antonio Gaudí. Pablo Picasso himself spent nine formative years here, from 1895 to 1904, training as an artist.

The 20th century solidified the reputation of the city as an incubator of artists. Masters like Joan Miró, Antoni Tàpies, Marià Fortuny and the larger-than-life pioneer of surrealism, Salvador Dalí, lived most of their lives in Barcelona. In the 1990s and early 2000s, up-and-coming artists from all over the world flooded into the city, attracted by its creative freedom, magnificent architecture, street art by legends such as El Pez, Konair and Sixeart, and an emerging alternative gallery scene.

Keith Haring, All together we can stop AIDS, (1989). MACBA Collection. Barcelona City Council long-term loan.

In 2013, the Open Walls Conference was born; the festival is dedicated to bringing urban art closer to the community, including the creation of several new murals made by artists including Alex Díaz, Pastel and Stepan Krasnov – a.k.a. 310. These days there are stunning examples of street art all over the city. Be sure not to miss the Keith Haring AIDS Mural from 1989 (now next to the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art (MACBA) and, in the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic), The World Is Born with Each Kiss by Joan Fontcuberta, a mosaic made from thousands of tiny ceramic tiles, each of which represents an expression of freedom. The mural was installed in 2014 as part of Barcelona’s Tricentenary celebrations commemorating the fall of Barcelona during the War of the Spanish Succession.

For this trip, we stayed at the Hotel Arts Barcelona. Now part of the Ritz-Carlton network, the imposing 43-floor tower is located right on the beach in central Barcelona – perfect for exploring the rest of the city. After an easy check-in, we were shown to our room, an incredible two-floor penthouse with floor-to-ceiling windows and stunning 360° views of the Mediterranean, Sagrada Familia and Castell de Montjuïc, past the Barri Gòtic, Sant Antoni and El Poble-Sec. The space is large enough to host a party of 40 people or more – however, unfortunately, that is not allowed for health and safety reasons. The furniture, designed by Jaime Tresserra, is from the 1990s, when the hotel was first opened, and fits effortlessly within the minimalist walls of the penthouse.

Arranged over two floors, the penthouses at Hotel Arts Barcelona enjoy the best views of the city and the Mediterranean.

Paula Pont, PR & Communications Manager, explained to me that the penthouses (all located between the 34th and 43rd floors) include benefits such as butler, access to a Mini to drive around Barcelona, free laundry service and breakfast in the room. The penthouses can be hired for weeks or months, and some have actually been booked for years.

Just 20 minutes’ walk from the hotel is Ciutat 7 Gallery, in the Barri Gòtic, owned by artist Lara Kaló. Originally from Granada, in Andalucía, Kaló has been living in Barcelona for the last seven years. Inspired by fauvism, she uses a technique she calls “spontaneous realism”, where colour and texture are more important than form: “Every stroke of the spatula, and the texture it leaves behind, reflects an expression I want to convey.” She mostly paints the women who have influenced and inspired her. “I paint real women, strong and powerful,” she says. “Some are friends, some are clients, acquaintances, relatives… basically, the women I am surrounded by in my everyday life.” After reflecting for a second she adds, “I have also painted Sophia Loren, because I feel a deep admiration for her.”

“Every stroke of the spatula, and the texture it leaves behind, reflects an expression I want to convey.”

              – Lara Kaló

Just a few minutes from Kaló’s gallery is Canal Gallery, a hub for avant-garde artists from different disciplines including illustration, photography, vintage graffiti and other expressions of urban art. Street artist Balu, the founder, explained to me that the gallery was created to encourage inclusivity and diversity. “Our aim is to create an accessible space in which artists can exhibit and sell their work,” he says. “And visitors can not only buy but also enjoy and learn about all this emerging talent.” The work of Alberto Blanchart caught my eye. The photographer, comic-book artist, cartoonist and painter has combined his two passions – graffiti and urban art – with popular culture. Or, as Balu says, “He creates Star Wars helmets and covers them in graffiti and rust, so they look as they would decades or centuries after being discarded.”

Star Wars helmets by Alberto Blanchart, an artist passionate about graffiti and urban art.

We took a walk back to the hotel to indulge in the hospitality of the Club on the 33rd floor, where one can always find drinks, food and snacks. It’s very convenient for both business and leisure travellers who don’t want to worry about having a set schedule. Only the rooms on floors 30 to 33 have access to the Club.

By the time we have eaten and freshened up, it was cocktail o’clock. So, following Ms. Pont’s recommendation, we went to P41, the cocktail bar named after Barcelona’s latitude. Under the direction of Head Mixologist Diego Baud, the team has created a second-to-none cocktail menu that is sure to satisfy even the most demanding of customers. When we visited, our mixologist was Lamin Manong. We couldn’t make up our minds, so we told Manong what kinds of flavours we like and allowed him to shake up something for us. My companion was presented with a Cherry Thunder Old Fashioned: Maker’s Mark, cherry syrup, chocolate bitters and grapefruit peel. I got a specialty of Baud’s: the Earth & Sea Collide, which combines GinRaw, Fino sherry, saffron, sage and lemon-peel syrup with citric acid. It was the best cocktail I’ve ever had in my life. Basically, it is the soul of the Mediterranean in a glass.

Earth & Sea on the left and Cherry Thunder Old Fashion on the right, two of the cocktails created by Diego Baud for P41.

The hotel has man dining options; spoilt for choice and too lazy to go out, we decided on The Pantry. We enjoyed it so much, I chose to do a stand-alone review for it (read it HERE). It was a fabulous experience; for one thing, the Speakeasy concept is a lot of fun. And secondly, the food is simply fabulous, with sustainability at the forefront of their priorities, bringing to the table the best produce Catalunya has to offer.

If you’re planning ahead, you may be able to score a table at the two-Michelin-starred Enoteca Paco Pérez, which elevates Mediterranean food to the heavens and beyond. This summer, renowned contemporary Japanese restaurant Roka is bringing its famous robatayaki cuisine to the Hotel Arts as part of an ephemeral dining concept. For a relaxed, lazy lunch, head down to Marina Coastal Food, an alfresco lunching proposition serving dishes from coastal cuisines across the world.

Enoteca Paco Pérez boasts two Michelin stars and offers a cuisine based on the freshness of the sea and the essence of farm and mountain produce.

In the morning, we grabbed a coffee and a slice of cake at Hidden Coffee Roasters, also inside the hotel. The founders, Carlos and Mateo, go all over the world to find the best independent organic-coffee producers; this way, they support local communities and reduce the carbon footprint of the industry.

We walked back to the Barri Gòtic, where we visited Barcel-one gallery, which started in 2010 as a space where classic art could sit comfortably alongside the works of contemporary creators. The gallery represents artists such as Paz Vicente, whose art seems to navigate a dimension between reality and the world of dreams, by using lithographic photo engraving and xylography to create images that are as alluring as they are chimerical. Vicente explained that her creative process is very slow: “I first do my research, and then many sketches in a notebook before deciding the media I’ll use for the final work.”

Works from Paz Vicente’s series, When Honey is Sweeter than Blood.

The Hotel Arts itself has a remarkable art collection. The Arts and Mediterranean suites both have original works on display. And in the corridors on each floor there is at least one original artwork. Every afternoon the hotel organises a tour to show guests the collection, from works by sculptor Xavier Corberó Olivella – including El Rei i La Reina, 1988, in the main entrance – to paintings by outstanding representatives of 20th-century Catalonian art.

Feeling a bit arted out, the next day was spent with Javier Fernández Casanova, PR director at ME Barcelona, just a stone’s throw from Plaça de Catalunya, La Rambla, Casa Batlló… you name it, it’s no more than a 10-minute walk. (The only destination that’s relatively far away is the beach.) Casanova knows everyone in Barcelona; there is no place he can’t get you into, and he knows every one of the city’s hidden gems. One of them is Alice Secret Garden, a quirky, slightly surreal bar and restaurant whose decor does justice to its name. In the back, there’s a leafy courtyard where you could emulate Lewis Carroll’s immortal character and have your own tea party, brunch or just a few drinks. If you’re lucky enough to meet the owner, Freddy Valdés, you may persuade him to sit down with you and share some of his amazing stories from the 1990s, when anybody who was somebody hung out in Barcelona.

Alice Secret Garden, is one of the most eclectic and fun places I know in Barcelona.

Casanova recommended that we explored the work of one more artist: Samuel de Sagas. He has coined the term corazonizar (from corazón, the Spanish word for heart), which means the attribution of the elements of an anatomical heart both in shape and substance to elements that do not have them. When I spoke to de Sagas, it all made sense. In 2018, he tried to end his own life. He spent the next year trying to make sense of it all, to start to love himself and move forward. “After nearly 365 days, and thousands of photos, videos and reflections in front of the mirror, I created my first heart,” de Sagas shares. “It was a heart that sprouted water, with two daisies and two hummingbirds feeding from its nectar. It was a symbol of life.” He couldn’t stop painting hearts – and that’s how the term corazonizar came to be.

“My hearts, always depicted as the physical organ, are a metaphor of life. That is the core of the Corazonizar concept.

       – Samuel de Sagas

MKX

Reflecting on de Sagas’ words, we went back to the hotel to enjoy el vermut, a wonderfully civilised Spanish tradition. Similar to the French aperitif, el vermut happens before lunch. Vermut (vermouth in English) actually comes from the ancient Greece physician Hippocrates, who macerated wine with absinthe – a plant with multiple medicinal properties. The word itself comes from the way the French pronounced the German word for one of its original main botanicals, wormwood. During the Middle Ages, it adopted the name of Hippocratic wine or herbal wine. In 1838, brothers Luigi and Giuseppe Core started producing it at an industrial level, and Spain – especially Catalunya – adopted and made it its own. Hundreds of recipes have developed since, as drinks companies, bars and families introduced their own little variations.

On Sunday, The Pantry offers its very own vermut in the gardens of the Hotel Arts Barcelona.

Sunday is vermut day. People dress up and go out. From May until the end of summer, The Pantry offers its very own vermut in the gardens of the hotel, dotted with picnic-style benches. The experience starts with a selection of local cheeses, Ibérico cold meats and gourmet seafood, followed by a main course from the generous menu. With a belly full of delicious food, a slightly light head and a heavy heart, we concluded our trip to Barcelona, hoping to be back very soon.

British Airways flies to Barcelona up to eight times daily from London Heathrow, and up to six times per week from London City Airport. Return flights in Euro Traveller from £73, and Club Europe from £291. www.britishairways.com

Hotel Arts Barcelona. Tel. +34 93 221 1000. Email: artsreservations@ritzcarlton.com

www.albertoblanchart.net     www.barcel-one.com      www.canal-gallery.com www.larakalobarcelona.com www.mrstoolipartgallery.com     www.pazvicente.es www.samueldesagas.com

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening image: Lara Kaló, Ruth Morley, acrylic on canvas. 146cm x 114cm.

Exploring race and identity in the digital age

Welcome Collection brings us Genetic Automata, a major exhibition of collaborative video works by artists Larry Achiampong and David Blandy, exploring race and identity in an age of avatars, video games and ancestry DNA.

British Ghanaian artist Larry Achiampong uses film, still imagery, aural and visual archives, live performances, objects and sound to explore ideas surrounding class, gender, cross-cultural and digital identity. With works that examine his communal and personal heritage, Achiampong explores ‘the self’ through the activity of splicing the audible and visual materials of personal and interpersonal archives, offering multiple perspectives that reveal the deeply entrenched inequalities in contemporary society.

David Blandy’s work slips between performance and video, digital and analogue, investigating the stories and cultural forces that inform and influence our lives. Collaboration is central to his practice, examining communal and personal heritage and interdependence.

Having been friends for a long time, Blandy and Achiampong share a strong interest in popular culture and the postcolonial condition. Genetic Automata is the third series they have developed together. Their presentation at Wellcome Collection is their first museum exhibition as a duo.

_GOD_MODE_, by Larry Achiampong & David Blandy, 2021

The exhibition presents a series of four films exploring scientific racism – the false belief that there are innate differences and abilities between races. It will reflect on where deeply ingrained ideas about race come from and the role that science has played in shaping these perceptions. The series highlights how scientific racism is reproduced in contemporary society, from education to healthcare, science, politics and more.

Genetic Automata gives visitors for the first time to view the four video installations together, unpacking the relationship between science and race injustice through the artists’ lens. It premieres the latest work of the series _GOD_MODE_(2023), a co-commission between Wellcome Collection, Black Cultural Archives (BCA), and Wellcome Connecting Science. Each film employs a spoken word soundtrack and includes imagery drawn from contemporary video games, in particular those with dystopian sci-fi plots that feature the misuse of genetic material.

Installation view of A Terrible Fiction, at Arts Catalyst, London, Larry Achiampong & David Blandy, 2019. Commissioned by Arts Catalyst.

The series begins with A Terrible Fiction (2019), which addresses the complex history of classification, categorisation and segregation. It references the history of the theory of evolution and highlights the figure of John Edmonstone, a formerly enslaved Black man living in Edinburgh who taught Charles Darwin taxidermy – but whose contribution to science remains largely unacknowledged.

The second film, A Lament for Power (2020), investigates how science can be used to understand the world alongside its potential for commercial and political exploitation. It centres on Henrietta Lacks, a Black American woman, whose cells were taken without her knowledge and have been used to make world-changing discoveries such as mapping the human genome and the Polio and Covid-19 vaccines. The film references Resident Evil 5, a controversial videogame centred on a bio-terrorist plot in West Africa. The game has been criticised for its portrayal of Black people as zombies designed to be killed repeatedly. The work questions whose voices are erased from society’s narratives, and in doing so, whose interests are served.

Still from A Lament for Power, Larry Achiampong & David Blandy, 2020.

The third installation, Dust to Data (2021), examines the colonial history of archaeology and contemporary parallels in the data mining of DNA and social media image banks. It cites a letter from American sociologist and civil rights activist W.E.B Du Bois in 1912 to Flinders Petrie, a British Egyptologist and one of the originators of modern archaeology. Petrie believed there was a direct correlation between skull size, race and intelligence and used archaeology to justify colonialism. The film mixes CGI, videogame techniques and footage shot in the archaeology collection of the University of Liverpool to lay out the complex history of this discipline in establishing narratives of ‘self’ and ‘other’.

Still from Dust to Data, Larry Achiampong & David Blandy, 2021.

The new commission _GOD_MODE_(2023) is a reflection on the legacy of Francis Galton, the notable Victorian scientist who established eugenics as a scientific discipline at UCL (University College London) in 1904. The film considers the roots and implications of scientific racism, exploring how traces of eugenic practices have left their mark across society today, from education to medicine and politics, whilst presenting hopes for an alternative future.

In _GOD_MODE_, Blandy and Achiampong present the history of eugenics and explore its present-day legacy in philosophical, poetic and polemic terms. Filmed in two halves, the first is voiced by Blandy, who is white and middle class, born in London, of English heritage. He alludes to intelligence tests, racist and sexist discrimination, and the systemic use of sterilisation across the world, all under the guise of objective science. His poignant testimony is layered upon footage from UCL’s Science Collections and features some of the instruments Galton used to measure and categorise people, a selection of which are displayed alongside the film.

_GOD_MODE_, Larry Achiampong & David Blandy, 2023

In the second half of the film, Achiampong, who is Black and working class, born in London of Ghanaian heritage and living in Essex, delivers a lyrical yet powerful account that questions the limits of empathy in the struggle against injustice, suggesting that what is needed is not simply solidarity but real change, which would necessitate the demolition of generations of privilege. This part of the film visually invites the viewers into an immersive videogame environment following a large spider as it travels different landscapes – a reference to the West African folklore legend of Anansi, a shape-shifting demi-god, who changes form to achieve their aims.

Created using Unreal engine, a 3D computer graphics engine commonly used to create videogames, and part of Blandy and Achiampong’s artistic practice, _GOD_MODE_contains multiple references to videogames, including its title which is a cheat code that makes a player invincible and, in this work, alludes to the idea of playing God and the myth of genetic superiority.

Genetic Automata, at Wellcome Collection, runs from 8th June 2023 to 11th February 2024.
Admission is free.
Tuesday to Sunday 10.00 to 18.00, Thursdays from 10.00 to 20.00, closed Mondays.

Wellcome Collection, 183 Euston Road, NW1 2BE
www.wellcomecollection.org

www.larryachiampong.co.uk /www.davidblandy.co.uk

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening picture: David Blandy and Larry Achiampong. Photo © David Sandison. Courtesy of Wellcome Collection.

Louis Roederer Photography Prize for Sustainability 2023

Launched last year, the Louis Roederer Photography Prize for Sustainability has earned a solid reputation in the photography and art world not just for the benefits it brings to artists, but more importantly, for raising awareness around key issues affecting the health of our planet.

Launched last year, the Louis Roederer Photography Prize for Sustainability has earned a solid reputation in the photography and art world not just for the benefits it brings to artists, but more importantly, for raising awareness around key issues affecting the health of our planet.

Audrey Bazin, Artistic Director of the Louis Roederer Foundation explained, “The Louis Roederer Photography Prize for Sustainability currently supports both creation and ethical consideration by rewarding a photographer who has tackled an environmental issue. The Louis Roederer Foundation, convinced that no development can be sustainable without a strong cultural component ,is proud to support this Prize for Sustainability to foster a better understanding of the world and a mutual respect.”

The theme of this year’s prize is “Flow”. If we look the word up in the dictionary, Flow is defined as the action or fact of moving along in a steady, continuous stream. By its own definition, Flow is a concept that represents circulation, balance and exchange, and in the context of this competition, the constant dynamic between nature and people. This reciprocal motion highlights the need to receive according to our needs and give to the extent of our capacities. Both actions have to be in equilibrium if we are to safeguard the viability of Earth as a nest of life for centuries to come. By theming the competition Flow, Louis Roederer also wanted artists to illustrate the tension existing between people and nature: immersed yet separated from it, its master yet completely dependent on it.

This year, twenty-six photographers competed for the prize, chosen by thirteen nominators, who were selected by Roederer’s panel of judges. The panel consists of seven respected international collectors and arbiters of the art scene.

The winner, M’hammed Kilito, a documentary photographer and National Geographic explorer based in Casablanca, Morocco, was chosen by the judges for his captivating series, Before It’s Gone.Kilito started this project years ago, as a way to document life in oases, the degradation they suffer and the impact on their inhabitants. The people he met during these visits helped him understand this rich ecosystem that revolves about the precious resource of water, and become aware of the glaring realities that threaten their future: desertification, recurrent droughts and fires, changes in agricultural practices, overexploitation of natural resources, rural exodus, and the sharp drop in water reserves.

Before It’s Gone is an on-going long germ project that document life in oases and raises awareness about the imminent threats that compromise their future.

Historically, the oases have been privileged landmarks at the crossroads of major trade routes, places of passage and rest, centres of prosperity and influence. Over millenia, the oasis inhabitants developed an irrigation system called khettaras. They consist of underground tunnels that conduct water from its source to where is needed, accessed through a series of vertical wells. The effective management of water has enabled the prosperity of people living under one of the most extreme arid climates that exists on earth.

The oasis is a model of virtuous interaction between the desert populations and their environment.”

 

            – M’hammed Kilito

The recipient of multiple accolades during his career, Kilito’s work has been shown at festivals and venues including Sharjah Art Foundation (Sharjah), 1:54 Art Fair (Paris), Tate Modern (London), National Museum of Photography (Rabat), Beirut Image Festival, Photo Vogue Festival (Milan), Helsinki Photo Festival and Breda Photo Festival amidst others. His photographs have been featured in magazines and newspapers such as The Washington Post, The Wall Street Journal, The British Journal of Photography, Vogue Italia, L’Express, VICE Arabia, and El Pais.

www.kilito.com     @mhammed_kilito

The two runners-up were Hengki Koentjoro and Yaushiro Ogawa. Hengki Koentjoro is Indonesian artist who first fell in love with photography at the age of 11, when he was given a camera as a birthday present. He cemented his education at the Brooks Institute of Photography in Santa Barbara, California—an expedition that plunged him into the professional arena of video production and fine art photography. He specialised in capturing the spectral domain that lies amidst the shades of black and white, as a form to represent yin and yang. He feels seduced by the elaborate choreography that is the dance between composition, texture, shapes and lines.

Kentjoro’s work explores the concepts of yin and yang along the borderlines or light and shadow, finding the spiritual in the physical.

About his obsession with water, the artist said, “Water is an essential part of life, and its beauty and sustainability are found in many forms. From the freshwater springs of mountain ranges to roaring waterfalls, from meandering rivers to distant estuaries, from the vastness of the seas to the sound of raindrops, water powers life, nurturing everything it touches and replenishing us with its life-giving sustenance. It is through water that we are able to sustain ourselves, no matter the source. The beauty and wonder of water is a gift of Mother Nature and something that all of us should strive to protect and preserve for future generations.”

www.hengki-koentjoro.com  @hengki_koentjoro_images

Award-winning photographer Yasuhiro Ogawa started photography in his early 20s and began his professional career in the year 2000. The Dreaming is a visual travelogue which spans 27 years in the life of the artists, during which he travelled around the world without any specific destination, simply following his instinct. Settled in Tokyo, when he turned 50, he decided to go through all the B&W negatives he had taken during his travels. “Every moment of the journeys might have been vision of dreams – that’s why I titled this photo story, The Dreaming,” Ogawa explains.  “I believe those photos show my deepest emotions when I clicked the shutter. Deepest emotions flow inside me like a river, and that flow is my life itself.”

The Dreaming is a series that documents 27 years in the life of Ogawa, reflecting how his experiences travelling influenced the evolution of his photography.

Ogawa has had many solo and group exhibitions including By the Sea at Fuji Film Photo Salon, Tokyo (2018); Contes des îles et Paysages de la Mer du Japon, at Inbetween Gallery, Paris, France (2018); and The Dreaming at Blue Lotus Gallery, Hong Kong (2020) among many others. He has published six photo books so far, the latest of which is Tokyo Silence, T&M Projects, (2022).

www.ogawayasuhiro.com     @yasuhiropics

Shortlisted Anastasia Samoylova is an American artist born in the USSR. Over the last 12 years, she has been focusing her work on the notions of place and landscape. Moving between observational photography and studio practice, she explains how, through her work, she “wanted to address how places we inhabit and landscapes we look at, in both real and mediated form, shape our understanding of the world and our position to affect change in it,” she explains. As such, her photographs explore the concepts of environmentalism, consumerism and the picturesque.

“My work investigates how humans impact the world around them and how that human-intervened world, in turn, manifests our values, aspirations, and deficiencies.”

 

          –  Anastasia Samoylova

 

 

 

Recent shows featuring Anastasia’s work include the Eastman Museum; Chrysler Museum of Art; The Photographer’s Gallery, London; Kunst Haus Wien; and Museum of Fine Arts, Le Locle. Her photographs can be seen in the collections at the Perez Art Museum, Miami; High Museum of Art, Atlanta; and Museum of Contemporary Photography, Chicago. Solo exhibitions include the recent Floridas at C/O Berlin and her project Cities, which will be exhibited this summer in Madrid (Fundación MAPFRE).

www.anasamoylova.com       @anasamoylova

Also shortlisted was the Iran-born artist Azadeh Ghotbi. Azadeh had to leave her country very young and spent many years moving from one place to another. Although she never returned “home”, the feeling of kinship to Iran remains strong.  and the scars borne from her young years spent moving from one place to another. Now living in London, Azadeh uses her painting and photography to give a voice to her thoughts.

Images from The Nature of Light series, by Azadeh Ghotbi. The leaves featured represent the essence of natural cycles.

Her work reflects adaptability, empathy, and a heightened sense of observation. Here are images that capture how the cyclical forces of nature and human interaction could flow sustainably and be harnessed in a circular harmonious manner.

In The Nature of Light series, rather than using the camera and editing programmes to control or manipulate the raw images, the artist chose to respectfully highlight the energy and power of nature at different times of day, through patient observation, trial and error, and manual camera movement. Similarly, the leaves showcased were carefully plucked like precious grapes to spotlight the exquisite quintessence of natural cycles.

Azadeh’s work has been exhibited in Europe (Basel, London, Frankfurt, Paris), the Middle East (Amman, Cairo, Dubai) and the United States (Los Angeles, New York, Washington DC). 

www.AzadehGhotbi.com     @AzadehGhotbi

The last shortlisted was the artist and lecturer Dafna Talmor, an Honorary Fellow by The Royal Photographic Society , Dafna is an artist and lecturer whose practice encompasses photography, spatial interventions, curation and collaborations. Her talent is widely recognised, and her photographs included in public collections such as the National Trust, Victoria & Albert Museum, Deutsche Bank, Hiscox and private collections internationally.

By disrupting composition and distorting perspective, Constructed Landscapes points to the constructed nature of landscape as a more complex version of reality.

Constructed Landscapes is an ongoing project produced by repurposing and collaging negatives from a personal archive of “failed” images. The London-based artist has chosen the river Thames as the border that shapes and alters the flow of the city, physically and metaphorically. In these reconfigured and abstracted images, manmade elements interrupting the so-called purity of the landscape have been removed, while human presence is reasserted through manual intervention; voids, overlaps and marks mimic elements of the landscape.

Recent solo exhibitions include Constructed Landscapes at Carmen Araujo Arte, Caracas, Venezuela, (2022) and Constructed Landscapes (vol. III) at the TOBE Gallery, Budapest, (2022). Group exhibitions in 2022 include Occupying Photography: To the Milky Way via the Sea, NŌUA (Bodø); Stories We Live With – Selection from the Somlói–Spengler Collection, QContemporary (Budapest); No Place is an Island, Photo50, London Art Fair; and Filling the Cracks, Unseen Unbound, Unseen Amsterdam, (2021).

www.dafnatalmor.co.uk      @dafnatalmor

A selection of the shortlisted works are on exhibition and free to the public at the White Box Gallery, Nobu Hotel, Portman Square, London, until the 31st of May.

Learn more about the Louis Roederer Photography Prize for Sustainability HERE.

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening picture: from the series Before Its Gone, by M’hammed Kilito (image cropped from the original due to formatting limitations).

Take a T. rex home

Fancy an entire T. Rex skeleton in your living room, or a unique timepiece from Urwerk with encapsulated fragments from a said dinosaur? Is your summer wardrobe in need of a space suit flown at ISS? On 18th April you have the chance.

“This is a highlight of my career,” said world-renowned paleontologist Dr. Hans Jakob Siber, head of the Aathal Dinosaur Museum in Switzerland, while eyeing the 11.6-meter-long and 3.9-meter high TRX 293-TRINITY, which is currently on display at the Tonhalle, downtown Zurich next to the lake.

Trinity, a female T. rex judging from her build, is the highlight of the Out of This World II auction by Switzerland’s largest auction house Koller, where she will be the last of 75 lots going under the hammer on 18th April. This is the third time ever an entire T. rex is sold in an auction, and the first time it is happening in Europe. One of the largest Mars meteorites on Earth, a space suit flown on international space missions, original movie props from Batman, The Exorcist, and Alien, and a huge gold nugget are among other highlights from the auction catalog.

A space suit worn on international space missions and a Batmobile are among the extraordinary items in this auction.

With close to 51 percent original bone material and mounted in a dynamic, scientifically accurate and modern pose, the 67-million-year-old TRX-293 TRINITY is among the finest known unearthed specimens of one of the largest terrestrial predators that ever ruled our planet. Interestingly, the bone material consists of three exceptional Tyrannosaurus specimens that were unearthed between 2008 and 2013 in Wyoming and Indiana; a composite modus operandi is common in paleontology. “The TRX-293 TRINITY is one of the most impressive mounts I’ve seen. The quality of the restoration plus the quality of the mount sort of breathes life again into the predator, which lived millions and millions of years ago” said Dr Siber.

TRX-293 TRINITY is among the finest known unearthed specimens of T. rex ever found.

The pending arrival of a Tyrannosaurus rex to Switzerland for the first time ever, reached the ears of Martin Frei just before Christmas 2022, which led to an unexpected collaboration and a unique timepiece: The UR-105M TRINITY, a unique piece with a textured, ribbed and “scaly skin” made of hand-patinated bronze and PVD-coated titanium. “This dinosaur is almost a legendary beast, and I immediately made the connection with our watchmaking creation,” explains Martin Frei, artistic director, and co-founder of Urwerk, about the timepiece which contains integrated fragments of Trinity, viewable through the case back sapphire crystal.

Besides the bone material from the T. rex, the large dimensions of this watch – 39.5mm across, 53mm lug-to-lug, and 16.8mm thick – make it a real show-stopper.

Watchmaker and co-founder Felix Baumgartner adds: “We created this unique timepiece by respecting the characteristics of the TRX-293 TRINITY. Our UR-105M TRINITY has been worked to match the dinosaur, both in relief and color. The bezel has undergone a special oxidation that gives it an earthy and ageless look.”

Out of This World catalog with 75 objects from natural science, space exploration, and movie memorabilia from Batman, Alien, and the Exorcist available HERE.

Words: Anders Modig

The album cover that changed it all

As I was crossing the bridge on my way to the press preview of Aladdin Sane: 50 years, I was finding it hard to accept that it has been five decades since the young ambitious musician David Bowie, with the support of his manager Tony Defries and the genius of photographer Brian Duffy, created one of the most influential pop culture images of our history. The legacy of this cover keeps being a source of inspiration for contemporary artists, resonating with the global queer culture thanks to the fluidity of its images.

Until a few years early, when the cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band shook the establishment, the images used in albums were, frankly, quite dull, normally involving a very standard picture of the artist and little more. However as the 1970s progressed, covers become more daring and creative, embracing everything from science fiction to comic strips and everything in between.

Bowie’s star was in the ascendant. The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars had sold 100,000 copies just in the UK. For his new album Aladdin Sane, Bowie needed a cover that will reflect his shifting androgynous image. Tony Defries turned to Brian Duffy, who, together with David Bailey and Terence Donovan were possibly the most successful photographers at the time.

There is a lot of speculation about where the inspiration for the lightning bolt came from but it seems the decision was taken by makeup artist Pierre LaRoche, based on the earlier Ziggy Stardust costumes, and Duffy insisted it went across Bowie’s face. “He has the perfect face for makeup,” LaRoche said about Bowie at the time.

Aladdin Sane, 1973. Photo Duffy © Duffy Archive & The David Bowie ArchiveTM

In this show, the Southbank Centre explores the creation of the album’s iconic artwork, including the legendary lightning flash portrait. On the weekend of April 21st and 22nd, there will be a series of live music events and talks inspired by the album, such as:

● Anna Calvi, Scissor Sisters’ Jake Shears, Roxanne Tataei, Tawiah, and Lynks join the Nu Civilisation Orchestra performing Aladdin Sane; and two club nights – Queer House Party and Queer Bruk – celebrate Bowie’s legacy with parties and music

● Talks exploring Aladdin Sane, Bowie and his cultural significance from Paul Burston, Geoffrey Marsh, Victoria Broackes and Chris Duffy

● National Poetry Library presents a new collection of work inspired by the album, Aladdin Sound, from Luke Kennard, Keith Jarrett, Golnoosh Nour and Mark Waldron

Curated by Chris Duffy, the son of Duffy, and Geoff Marsh, the exhibition starts introducing the visitor into the context of the early 1970s, from a political, social and cultural point of view. From there, the show moves on to the relationship between Bowie and Duffy, explaining in detail the photoshoot in January 1973 from which the iconic Aladdin Sane image was born. Here we can appreciate the gestation of the cover picture, as well as of those in the iconic gatefold. Contact sheets, colour proofs, negatives… an exceptional opportunity to follow Duffy’s creative process step by step. Defries wanted the cover to be very expensive to produce, so the label would invest as much money promoting the album as necessary to recover the cost and make a profit. Duffy took on the challenge with open arms. The dye transfer method used was very pricey and to make it even more so, they go the plate made in Switzerland.  

“To me, it [the cover] was competent, very competent, but I wouldn’t take it much beyond that.”

 

       –  Brian Duffy

Of his father’s work, Chris Duffy, said: “My father’s image of Bowie is often called the Mona Lisa of Pop. It’s important to remember it was the result of a short studio shoot using film, which then had to be sent out for commercial processing. There were no instant digital images or photoshop then. It’s extraordinary how it’s lasted and been endlessly reworked. Wherever I go in the world, it’s always somewhere on a t-shirt.”

The Southbank Centre Archive is also presenting a separate free display exploring David Bowie’s history with the Centre, stretching over 50 years, and his ongoing legacy. From his performance in the recently opened Purcell Room in 1969, to later appearances alongside Lou Reed and his curation of Southbank Centre’s annual contemporary music festival, Meltdown, never before seen archival material is available for public view.

The exhibition is completed with a stunning book by Chris Duffy, published by Welbeck, Aladdin Sane: 50 Years, with hundreds of photographs never seen before.

 

Chris Duffy’s Aladin Sane: 50 years is available at many retailers, such as AbeBooks, Amazon and WHSmith among others.

Words: Julia Pasarón

Aladdin Sane: 50 years. Southbank Centre, 6th April – 28th May.

Get your tickets for the exhibition, live music and talks HERE:

Raising Grace

Beautiful, alluring and with blue eyes that sparkle like crystals, Sian Brooke exudes star quality. And a star she certainly is. Since graduating from drama school RADA in 2002, she has been in constant demand, bringing to life the most diverse array of characters, from Sherlock Holmes’s evil little sister Eurus (opposite Benedict Cumberbatch) in BBC series Sherlock, to the queen consort of the Seven Kingdoms in HBO’s House of Dragons, to Ophelia in Hamlet at The Barbican Hall.

Her latest project is Blue Lights, a six-part BBC One police drama that sees Sian take the lead role as Grace, a rookie officer serving with the Police Service of Northern Ireland. Created and written by Declan Lawn and Adam Patterson (The Salisbury Poisonings), Blue Lights is expected to garner the plaudits enjoyed by successful police dramas Line of Duty and Bodyguard.

Grace, a mother of a teenage boy who leaves the comfort of her steady job as a social worker to join the police, is immediately thrust into the frontline, and finds facing the many pressures and dangers that this brings anything but easy. Sian is joined in the cast by Katherine Devlin (The Dig) and newcomer Nathan Braniff. “The moment I read the script, I felt I knew Grace,” Sian shares, “because the script is simply brilliant.” Patterson and Lawn, who both hail from Belfast, have written Blue Lights with humour and compassion, making its characters profoundly human and immediately recognisable.

“As a kid, I’d sit in front of the telly with my sister watching black and white movies… I was hooked, absolutely mesmerised by this other world…”

 –  Sian Brooke

Sian Brooke - leading actress in Blue Lights

But it wasn’t police dramas or fantasy sagas that inspired Sian to become an actor. She was drawn in by the divas from Hollywood’s golden age. “I was always mesmerised by film,” she recalls. “As a kid, I’d sit in front of the telly with my sister watching black and white movies. They were all that was shown on Saturday afternoons and I was hooked, absolutely mesmerised by this other world. The total escapism of that glitz and glam.” At the age of 10, Sian watched a friend perform in a local amateur musical and from that moment she was hooked. “I thought, ‘Oh my God! I love this,’ and realised that this was what I wanted to do when I grew up; it made me feel so alive.”

Nowadays it is not just actresses from Hollywood’s golden age era that inspire Sian, but also those working now. She is particularly fond – as I am – of American actresses Susan Sarandon and Frances McDormand. “These are very strong women who have influenced other actresses and built a legacy that passes woman to woman.”

Working in theatre has also helped develop Sian’s ability to build her characters. “I believe theatre is an actor’s medium, whilst TV is more a director’s medium. In theatre, you have the luxury of four weeks of rehearsals so you can mess around with your character, make mistakes and through all that process, find out what is right. In TV, you can’t rehearse so much but on the other hand, you live with your character for nearly 12 hours every day, and you are there as the character develops with every episode.”

Sian Brooke as officer Grace in Blue Lights

Sian Brooke as rookie police officer Grace in the BBC One police drama, Blue Lights.

This is how it worked for Grace working on Blue Lights. “For the four months we were filming in Belfast, I spent more time as Grace and dressed in the police uniform than out of it so, over time, you sit with that character and start to feel comfortable in their skin.” Modestly, she gives all the credit to the series’ quality to its writers and the director, Gilles Bannier. “Gilles loves working with actors, appreciates what everybody brings to the table and is a true collaborator.”

What differentiates Blue Lights from other police dramas we’ve seen on TV before is the fact that if follows the everyday life of fledgling officers. As they learn the basics of their profession, they all struggle during the probation period and start wondering about the wisdom of taking such a pressurised job. “We don’t often see them at the very start of their career on TV,” Sian comments. “We don’t realise they are just ordinary people, learning on the job. We don’t think of how nervous they may be when they make their first arrest, or how scary some situations may be, when things get heated and how they fear for their safety.” In other words, this show pulls back the curtain on what it is really like to be a police officer.

“It has become bluntly obvious that we need to do something before the worlds changes irreparably, but the whole issue may be too big for many people to comprehend.”

 –  Sian Brooke

Sian Brooke leads the cast of Blue Lights

The entire series was filmed in Belfast over a four-month period. Sian describes it as “Declan and Adam’s love letter to their city and its people”. It’s a love that Sian grew to share and she describes the experience of making Blue Lights as simply delightful. “It was such a brilliant and easy project,” she shares, “everybody knew what they had to do, we all appreciated each other’s work and the whole atmosphere was fabulous.”

But with this series completed, Sian is not resting on her laurels. She has just finished filming a superhero series for Netflix. “Unfortunately, I can’t say anymore,” she says of the project with an enigmatic smile.

When she is not working or with her family, Sian lends her time to the Glacier Trust, a charity devoted to working with locals in the Himalayan countryside to limit the damage caused by climate change on the landscape. Monitoring and sharing their research on glaciers helps mitigate the effects of landslides. The charity also supports farmers in this region and provides education and training to empower the population there.

“It has become bluntly obvious that we need to do something before the worlds changes irreparably, but I think that maybe the whole issue is too big for many people to comprehend,” says Sian, “In some parts of the world that damage has already happened, the problem is that these tragedies seem too far away from us. I come from a farming background, so I feel compelled to try to protect the lives of entire communities who are suffering for the abuse we have inflicted on the planet.”

As mother of two kids, she is very aware of the role that education has in ensuring the younger generations don’t repeat the mistakes of her own. “I grew up in the outdoors, appreciating nature, and this is what I try to pass on to my kids. And in school, it is part of their daily education.” Sian is not the only member of her family with an eco-warrior streak. Her brother works at the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs. “We all love the countryside. I try to go back as often as I can and sometimes, I dream of settling down there at some point in my life, grow a few vegetables, maybe even have some chickens.”

I look forward to speaking to Sian Brooke again soon. I’ve been mesmerised by her charm and her infectious energy. To me, she is as magnetic as those iconic actresses from Hollywood she admired so much as a kid.

Blue Lights Season 1 and 2 are available in BBC iPlayer and Netflix. 

From a staple of diets to a tool of nationalism

This spring, the Wellcome Collection is surprising us with a ground-breaking show devote to our relationship with milk and its place in global politics, society and culture. Featuring over 100 items including historical objects, artworks and new commissions, this is the first museum survey to consider the complexity of this seemingly everyday substance and how it has come to be seen as so central to our perceptions of nutrition and good health. 

As mammals, milk is fundamental to the nutrition of humans, at least as infants. That value has translated on occasion into a tool for the manipulation of masses. For example, the exhibition displays advertising from the 1920s to present day showing how ideas of purity and safety are central to milk’s commercial identity, while a late 19th century print from the temperance movement shows how milk was drawn into the campaigns of social reform. From early 20th century formula milk sample tins supplied to doctors by companies such as Glaxo, to the first dietary guidelines produced by the British Medical Association with illustrated daily menus, visitors will be able to examine how milk has been used to exert power as well as to provide care. It will show how milk drinking was constructed as a modern practice, and why it came to be seen as essential to a healthy diet.

Poster from the advertising campaign by the Ministry of Health in 1937-1938. Wellcome Collection, London.

In fact, milk came to be considered a staple of diets in the United Kingdom. Advertising from the 1920s to present day show how ideas of purity and safety are central to milk’s commercial identity. A selection of colourful printed milk bottle tops from the 1940s show how companies conveyed their brand and messaging with almost religious zeal; Express Dairy’s glossy promotional film The Daily Round reveals how dairies sought consumer trust by emphasising the scientific rigour of their laboratories.

Artworks such as Marcel BroodthaersThe Farm Animals (1974) hints at the ways in which cows have been industrialised for optimum efficiency, supporting the show’s exploration of the consequences of the introduction of scientific reforms into farming and motherhood that prioritized standardisation and regulation. Milk has been used as a tool of empire and nationalism due to its long-standing associations with purity and whiteness. Powerful marketing campaigns used images of white, nuclear families as the face of milk, while the abhorrent theories of well-known eugenicists, such as Herbert Hoover, sought to make connections between the purity of “natural” milk and ideas of social purity. Newly commissioned for this exhibition is Danielle Dean’s White, an animation reflecting on dairy farming as a colonising force that has reshaped indigenous landscapes in New Zealand.

Untitled, Julia Bornefeld, 1995. Courtesy of the artist and ARTantide Gallery, Verona; Galerie Elisabeth & Klaus Thoman, Innsbruck/ Wien. Photo by Helmut Kunde.

Government pamphlets and propaganda from the 1910s to the early 2000s manifests how milk has played a central role in people’s diets and in national welfare and food programmes. One such example is Ronald Reagan’s “Government Cheese”assistance programme, created following the US government’s purchase of surplus dairy supplies, in which five-pound blocks of processed cheese were distributed to welfare beneficiaries. It became a marker of poverty and class, but also an infamous popular culture icon. Leo Hallam Dawson’s documentary DAIRY examines the connection between contemporary farming, food, government and sustainability, while inviting visitors to reflect on the values on which our food systems are based.

Milk also considers personal experiences of nursing and infant feeding, including Ilana Harris-Babou’s video installation, Let Down Reflex, which uses first-hand testimonies from her mother and sister’s experiences of breastfeeding to consider the complexity and intimacy of black motherhood. Julia Bornefeld’s large-scale hanging sculpture reimagines the maternal body to reflect on the fraught relationship between care and milk extraction. As human milk becomes commercially available, a new commission by Jess Dobkin will explore how we negotiate the regulation, politics and ethics of its sale.

Cow creamers, various makers, late 18th and early 19th century. Courtesy of The Potteries Museum & Art Gallery, Stoke-on-Trent

Historical materials exhibited include a terracotta model of a mule carrying cheese from the third or second century BC; a 19th century feeding bottle and a large selection of novelty cow creamers from the same era; 20th century advice booklets for mothers; and milk-related ephemera and marketing from the 1930s to today, including government nutritional campaigns and commercial advertising from the dairy industry. Artworks include Evelyn Mary Dunbar’s oil painting Milking Practice with Artificial Udders (1940).

Milk, ©Lucy + Jorge Orta / ADAGP Paris, 2022. Reproduced with permission of Lucy + Jorge Orta.

The exhibition showcases many other contemporary objects and artworks such as Lucy + Jorge Orta’s Milk, a series of 16 cast and lacquered aluminium milk containers, will show how people around the world encounter milk as part of their everyday life; and new commissions by Danielle Dean, Jess Dobkin, and Ilana Harris-Babou. It also features a 2023 iteration of Deeper in the Pyramid, Melanie Jackson and Esther Leslie’s major project exploring milk’s seepage into every aspect of our daily lives.

Milk is curated by Marianne Templeton and Honor Beddard, and it is accompanied by a programme of events and online Stories. Find out more HERE.

Milk

Wellcome Collection

30th March – 10th September 2023. Free admission.

183 Euston Rd. London NW1 2BE

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening image: The weekly ration of milk for two people, UK, 1943. © IWM (D 14667)

Books to share with mum

Books are the gate to a magical universe. Reading is one of the most enrichening activities we can engage in. Doing it with someone we love is a way to strengthen the relationship by encouraging conversation, increasing the time spent together and even discovering things about the other person that you didn’t know before. So why don’t you surprise mum this year with a good book, curl up on the sofa and flick through it with her? Here we present you with five beautiful suggestions, handpicked by our Editor Julia Pasarón.

ROBERT DOISNEAU: PARIS
By Robert Doisneau
Edited by Annette Doisneau and Francine Deroudille
Published by Flammarion
Hardback – £35

I believe no other photographer has immortalised life in Paris the way Robert Doisneau (1912-1994) did. His images are full of romanticism and longing, inviting the viewer to get into the soul of the moments he captured with his camera and which earned him many awards during his lifetime.

Considered the pioneer of photojournalism together with Henri Cartier-Bresson, Doisneau was a champion of humanist photography. He worked at the Rapho agency before and after WWII. During the war, he was drafted into the French army as both a soldier and photographer. He was in the army until 1940 and, from then until the end of the war in 1945, forged passports and identification papers for the French Resistance.

Left: page 14 – Luxembourg Gardens, 1951. Right: page 89 – Le Baiser de l’Hôtel de Ville (The Kiss), 1950

After the war, Doisneau returned to freelance photography and sold photographs to Life and other international magazines. He even worked for Vogue for a bit in 1948 as a fashion photographer, but his heart wasn’t on it; he preferred street photography.

Since his death in 1994, Doisneau’s work experienced a revival, with major retrospectives of his work having taken place in Paris, Chicago and New York. Many of his portraits and photographs of Paris from the end of WWII through the 1950s have been turned into calendars and postcards, becoming icons of French life recognisable across the world.

This seminal volume, produced in close collaboration with his estate – managed by his daughters Annette and Francine – is the official, most comprehensive reference of his photographs of Paris. It contains more than 600 photographs taking the reader on a magic black & white tour of the City of Light. Buy the book HERE.

BURBERRY
By Alexander Fury
Foreword by Carly Eck
Published by Assouline
Hardback in slipcase – £150

More than 165 years of innovation, adventure and a unique expression of Britishness come to life in this new book. The richly illustrated volume is filled with material from the Burberry archive and beyond.

Founded in 1856 by the 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, the company quickly established itself by focusing on outdoors attire. In 1879, Burberry introduced gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, that was to change the outerwear industry forever. In 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight logo was developed containing the Latin word “Prorsum”, meaning “forwards”, and later registered it as a trademark in 1909.

In 1911, Burberry became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole; and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. Image courtesy of Burberry.

The term “trench coat” with which the brand became synonymous, came to be because it was the coat worn by British officers in the trenches in WWI. After the war, it became popular with civilians. Its famous check has been in use since at least the 1920s, primarily as a lining in its trench coats.

This and much more is covered in the five chapters of this book, featuring 200 illustrations, which depict Burberry’s evolution from a family-run company to a renowned global luxury brand. Each explores a range of notable events and the emblems for which Burberry is renowned. Think inspiring explorers, signature trench coats and a distinct British identity.

Left: Men’s trench coat, 1939. Right: Courtesy of Burberry. Right: Gabardine trench gown, AW 2022 runway collection. Both images courtesy of Burberry.

“Burberry is a story of creativity, exploration, innovation and community – all of which continue to be at the heart of the brand. In unearthing a dormant treasure trove, countless gold nuggets have been revealed. This book, the only one to be endorsed by the brand in recent times, presents a panorama of the company’s extraordinary heritage, which deserves to be widely celebrated. It’s the stuff of legends.” Carly Eck, Brand Curator, Archive, Burberry. Buy the book HERE.

GREAT WOMEN PAINTERS
Phaidon editors
Introduction by Alison M. Gingeras
Published by Phaidon
Hardback – £49.95

Historically, women have been pushed to the backstage of the artworld. Perhaps the most popular struggle is that of Artemisa Gentileschi – trained at the atelier of Caravaggio, who overcame rape and envy to become the first woman member of the Accademia di Arte del Disegno in Florence. Despite the success of this exceptional baroque artist, it hasn’t really been until well into the 20th century that women have achieved equal status to men in the world of art.

Hence the importance of a volume like Great Women Painters, a ground-breaking book that reveals a richer and more varied telling of the story of painting. Featuring more than 300 female artists from around the world, it includes both well-known women painters from history and today’s most exciting rising stars. The book spans the 15th century to the present day.

Left spread: Nina Chanel Abney / Tomma Abts (pages 20-21). Right spread: Emily Kame Kngwarreye / Laura Knight (pages 162-163)

Covering nearly 500 years of skill and innovation, this survey continues Phaidon’s celebrated The Art Book series, which reveals and champions a more diverse history of art, showcasing recently discovered and newly appreciated work and artists throughout its more than 300 pages and images.

A must-have volume for art lovers and an essential reference book for artists, collectors, curators, gallerists, students, and all those looking to broaden their knowledge of women artists and their stories.

Alison M. Gingeras is a curator and writer based in New York and Warsaw. She has served as curator at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York; Centre Pompidou, Paris; and Palazzo Grassi, Venice. Gingeras currently serves as an adjunct curator at Dallas Contemporary and a guest curator at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Miami as well as the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, in addition to working independently. Buy it HERE.

THE HANDMAID’S TALE
By Margaret Atwood
Illustrated by Anna and Elena Balbusso
Introduced by Margaret Atwood
Published by The Folio Society Hardback – £49.95

Made globally famous by Bruce Miller’s TV show of the same name, The Handmaid’s Tale is Margaret Atwood’s portray of a chilling dystopian society in a near future, ruled by religion, gender violence, and oppression. The novel features a fundamentalist theocratic regime in what used to be the USA, now called Gilead, prompted by a fertility crisis.

The protagonist, Offred, is a Handmaid. Her role is to bear children for her Commander, whose wife is unable to conceive. Refusal would mean the death penalty or a lifetime of hard labour in the Colonies, plagued with radiation from the war that overthrew the former US government. She remembers her previous life, when she had a home, a husband, and – most agonisingly – her own child. Offred makes frequent references to the world she once knew and the freedom she took for granted – having her own bank account, wearing her hair uncovered, even something as simple as using nail varnish.

Sisters Anna and Elena Balbusso’s stunning illustrations skilfully highlight the regimented and hierarchical nature of society in Gilead. © Anna and Elena Balbusso, 2012.

Atwood skilfully dramatises the contrast between the grotesque strangeness of Gilead and ordinary life going on elsewhere. In one instance, Offred and a companion encounter a group of tourists from Japan. Forbidden to take pictures, the tourists ask if the women are happy. Offred replies that they are very happy. “I have to say something. What else can I say?”

Asked whether her book could be classed as science fiction, Atwood replied: “Science fiction has monsters and spaceships; speculative fiction could really happen.” First published in 1986, The Handmaid’s Tale was inspired by contemporary Western fears about falling birth-rates, as well as by religious fundamentalism both in the West and East. It was a critical and popular success, launching Atwood on the international stage and wining prizes on both sides of the Atlantic.

The Folio Society edition of Margaret Atwood’s The Handmaid’s Tale, introduced by the author and illustrated by Anna and Elena Balbusso, is exclusively available HERE. 

LUNA LUNA
The Art Amusement Park
By André Heller
Published by Phaidon
Hardback – £34.95

First opened in 1987 in Hamburg, Germany, Luna Luna became the first-ever art amusement park, with rides, games, performances, and other unexpected amusements crafted by some of the most renowned artists of the time. From Jean-Michel Basquiat to David Hockney, Roy Lichtenstein, Salvador Dalí and Keith Haring, a total of 32 artists collaborated with creator André Heller in a project that was described by Life magazine as the “most dizzying, dazzling art show on Earth”.

Now, more than three decades later, Luna Luna is back on a global tour of extravaganza, a carnival that merges avant-garde and popular culture. In addition to a selection of the 1987 attractions, the reimagined Luna Luna features an evolving collection of new rides and amusements from a growing family of contemporary artists spanning art, music, food, and more.

Left: Jean-Michel Basquiat (pages 110-11). Right: the artist’s painted Ferris wheel for Luna Luna. Picture credit: Sabina Sarnitz (pages 118-119). The music for the Ferris wheel was provided by Miles Davis.

The book that was originally published for the launch of the park in 1987, has been translated into English and updated with a fresh preface. Apart from providing unique access to rare artworks that have not been widely viewed in 35 years, the work of each of the artists who have contributed to the new Luna Luna is documented in photographs that show the artist at work, with details of the artworks, and showing the art in the context of the exhibition.

André Heller is an acclaimed international multimedia artist. He is the creator of best-selling books, largescale flying and floating sculptures, and garden artworks, and has had a platinum-selling career as a singer and songwriter. In addition to directing shows, plays, circuses, films, and operas, he has also designed fire spectacles, labyrinths, and museums. He lives and works between Vienna and Marrakech. Get your copy of Luna Luna HERE.

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening picture by Cottonbro Studio.

https://www.instagram.com/cottonbro/

Taking Frieze by Storm

Art is in the DNA of Breguet watches. Its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet wasn’t just an outstanding scientist, technician and designer, but he is also considered by many the “creator” of the neoclassical style. While the fashion in Paris at the end of the 18th century was baroque, he favoured sobriety and imposed a neoclassical style that was trailblazing for its time. He was also instrumental in developing in watchmaking a refined style with the Breuget apple hands and the introduction of guilloché, which exist to this day.

The art value of Breguet pieces has been recognised internationally, with their watches regularly being part of art exhibitions everywhere from Paris to San Francisco over the past century, with museums as prestigious as the Guggenheim purchasing pieces for their own collections. So nobody was terribly surprised that Breguet would partner up with a big global art fair, but maybe Frieze was not what most would have come up as a first guess. When asked about this three-year partnership, Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet answered, “Quite simply because we like the young and avant-garde vision of this event, which stands out by daring to showcase emerging artists alongside established ones. We are therefore delighted with this partnership, which is in line with our vision […] It reflects our values ​​and the boldness that the brand has shown since its inception.” 

To mark the debut of this association, Frieze and Breguet commissioned artist Pablo Bronstein to produce a series of works, representing his response to the Breguet brand. One of the most influential artists of the last 20 years, Bronstein’s work spans prints and drawings to choreography and performance, always with a focus on architecture. His work is held in museum collections including here in London at the British Museum, Tate London and Victoria and Albert Museum; Centre Pompidou, Paris; Brooklyn Museum and Metropolitan Museum of art, both in New York; and the Museum of Fine Arts Houston, Texas. 

A Marca said about this decision, “Pablo Bronstein is fascinated with the 18th century, an era which marks the foundations of many inventions. Coincidentally, our brand was founded in 1775 and Abraham-Louis Breguet created many horological innovations that are still used in watchmaking today. It therefore seemed very natural to us to give him carte blanche to express his vision of our brand.”

A Breguet Tradition
Quantième Rétrograde
next to an original
“Souscription” pocket
watch, both exhibited
at Frieze New York,
May 2022.

The first artwork in the series Bronstein created for Breguet was presented at Frieze New York in May 2022, followed by Seoul in September, London last October and just a few weeks ago, the last one in Los Angeles. Looking to traditions of both Breguet’s watchmaking, and aesthetics of the 18th century, Bronstein created a series of bespoke wallpaper designs. Alongside these wallpapers, Breguet displayed their Tradition collection, paying tribute to the innovation central to Breguet’s legacy. In fact, the collection is based on the “souscription watches”, which were launched by the brand through an advertising brochure in 1797. These timepieces were sold by Breguet on a subscription basis, and the firm required customers to make a down payment of a quarter of the price when they placed an order. The name came because they were recorded as “souscription” in the sales ledgers. These were reliable and affordable watches, which proved to be a great success. Around 700 were made, with a choice of either a gold or silver case.

As the artist explained to me, “I played on the company’s history in watchmaking from the time of its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet. I drew inspiration from scenic block-printed wallpapers such as those made by Zuber in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, influenced by the machines represented in the encyclopedia of Diderot … plus the early 18th century compulsion to decorate everything.” 

Scenic Wallpaper with Important Machinery of the 18th Century, by Pablo Bronsteinthe artist’s vision of the time of Abraham-Louis Breguet, exhibited at Frieze New York, 2022.

Although born in Argentina, Pablo Bronstein grew up in Britain, where he came when he was a child and where he still lives. He feels very influenced by Latin culture though, especially Italian architecture and French interiors, things that “are not very English but rather Baroque, very rich and opulent.” Hence his fascination with the 18th century, the decorative arts and the interest in knowledge and technology. In the artwork shown at Frieze New York, Bronstein depicted a parade of mechanical innovations performing for each other, decorated by hand and then digitised. From an antique drill and mechanical guillotine to a watch Breguet sold to British monarch George IV and a three-wheel clock conceived during the French Revolution which displays both traditional and Republican calendars, this wallpaper is a synthesis of invention, avant-garde and tradition, placing timekeeping within a wider historical narrative.

“I want to tell stories
that are not necessarily
pleasant, but to do
it in a way that is beautiful.”

  Pablo Bronstein

Together with his love for the Age of Enlightment, Bronstein feels a special affinity with post modernism, in particular Italian post modernists, from Gio Ponti – the father of Italian modern design to Aldo Rossi, culminating in his love for 1980s, possibly for the abundance of bright colours, asymmetrical shapes, and playful elements such as broken pediments, classical motifs, and historical references. These preferences manifest in his illustrations of buildings. “I am in the realm of aesthetics. I have no real interest in structure or in how a building stays up. I just love the aesthetic of the building staying up; I love the cranes and the scaffolding and how all of it looks together. I don’t really care if they work or not.” He explains with a slightly shy smile. “This kind of replay of history and of historical motifs is extremely important in my work.” 

His interest in timepieces also started from a purely aesthetic point of view. “I’ve always been fond of clocks and have regularly incorporated them into my work,” Bronstein explains. “I like the sculpture around the time device, but now I am quite interested in the inner world of the watch, you know, and that’s what the wallpapers I have created for Breguet are about, imagining being inside one of these constructions where everything is a is a machine, a decorative one, but a machine nonetheless.” 

Pablo Bronstein, Scenic Wallpaper with Important Machinery of the 18th Century: The Golden Age. Presented at Frieze Seoul, 2022.

The advent of the Industrial Revolution meant that measuring time started to have more importance for the working and merchant classes. People had to follow precise schedules and be in places at very specific times. This is how Bronstein connects machines and watches. The connection with wallpaper comes “from the need of people at the time to decorate their houses economically.”  

I wonder though how he sees time as an artist. He takes a couple of seconds before answering. “I can think of two ways to answer that question. Within the context of contemporary art, we are constantly surrounding by a mixture of objects from different times, a table from the 1980s, a silver frame bought in the 1960s, a chest of drawers found in a flea market from the 1930s… That’s what I find amiss in many period films. If they are set in the 1850s for example, everything is from that exact time, while the reality is that in a house from 1852 for example, there would have been furniture and accessories from many decades before.” As I look a bit confused, he adds, “What I mean is that from an artistic point of view, I see no conflict between past and present and how they mix together. Now, from a personal point of view, time is the thing I am constantly fighting against. Like right now, because in art fairs, there is never enough of it.” 

Machines have also been a constant in Bronstein’s development as an artist. “One of my first artistic triumphs as a kid was winning at school the ‘Car of the Future’ competition when I was seven. I had created a weird, blobby yellow car with twisted wires that held a fridge-freezer and a washing machine.” He admits being obsessed with the serpentine form, which appears time and again in his work. “The difference is that now I am more aggressive.” I mention the giant drill spearing a beautiful watch in his London wallpaper, to which he comments, “Exactly, doesn’t that make it more interesting that simply looking at how the watch turns? That is how I feel my work has become more challenging.”

Bronstein’s panoramic wallpaper at the Breguet exhibit in Frieze London 2022, Scenic Wallpaper with Important Machinery of the 18th Century: Civil War, shows the beginning of the fall of the machines.

His understanding of time and machinery extends to the themes of the different artworks he created for the four Frieze locations, which all together represent the rise and fall of the machines over time. “The first of the wallpapers [New York] depicted beautiful machines of classic proportions.” Bronstein explains, “There is a drill, a watch … even a guillotine; and everything is clean, as if preserved in space. The one in Seoul shows the zenith of the machines. They are talking to each other and everything works perfectly.

The wallpaper for Frieze London starts to show the first signs of machine meltdown, mayhem and civil war.  By the time we get to Los Angeles, we are in front of a truly post-apocalyptic scene, that indicates the obliteration of the machine era.”

The last of Bronstein’s works for this Frieze, Scenic Wallpaper with Important Machinery of the 18th Century: Gold Rust, was presented in Los Angeles this last February

This narrative certainly falls in line with Bronstein saying about what he wants to convey with his art, “I want to tell stories that are not necessarily pleasant, but to do it in a way that is beautiful.” 

I personally found the four panoramic wallpapers spellbinding and full of meaning. They tell a complex story, presented with the most beautiful aesthetics. Exactly like a Breguet watch.

Words: Julia Pasarón

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