The Magic Mountain Thomas Mann refers to in his 1924 novel is based on the mountain rising from Davos in the eastern Swiss Alps. ‘Magic’ because the drier air at altitude aided tuberculosis patients’ recovery. ‘Magic’ because of the botanical remedies growing naturally in this environment; and ‘magic’ was the generosity of time and space that the landscape provided. Davos may host the World Economic Forum, doubling its population as it welcomes global leaders, CEOs, and celebrities. But for the other 51 weeks, it remains the sanctuary Mann wrote about – a place to contemplate life, heal… and improve your skiing.
At 1560m, Davos is proudly the highest city in Europe, an elongated dwelling that sits in the vast groove of the Landwasser valley. Northwards, the valley connects to Klosters, the slightly lower and humbler little sister of the two; a perfectly secluded alpine nook of chalets, church spires, with forest muffling the brouhaha. For decades, Klosters was most notably the resort where (then) Prince Charles and Diana would retreat with Princes William and Harry for their annual family ski holiday. What it may lack in ostentatious displays of wealth, it makes up for with a cosiness and sense of privacy in its laid-back remoteness. As the afternoon sun retreats and a canapé of shade envelopes the village, it feels as though it would take years for anyone to find you there.
Sunset at Pischa, a mountain in the Davos-Klosters region known for its alternative winter sports.
It offers stunning natural snow and panoramic views accessible by a cable car that goes up to 2,483 metres.
Aside from the quietude, what’s addictive about Davos-Klosters is the variety of places to ski. There are six distinct areas, each with its own light, mood, and rhythm, so no two days feel the same during a week-long stay. The lifts are pure Swiss efficiency and the low skier-to-piste ratio means that even at peak season, you can make fresh tracks on groomed slopes after midday. It’s an ideal resort for beginners and improvers who can progress at their own pace across sprawling terrain, without worrying about other skiers speeding past.
Learn to carve in the wide, forgiving pistes of Parsenn – the grand old stage of the Parsenn Derby, the oldest ski race in Switzerland. This is also the longest run in Switzerland – 12km from Weissfluhjoch to Küblis. It feels like dropping into a Jon Constable; white slopes unspooling below, framed by dark spruces; the crisp mountain air coaxing you into taking more turns and skiing a little faster.
Left: Night sledging on the Rinerhorn, a ride down an illuminated, winding toboggan open on Wednesdays and Fridays 7pm – 10.30pm.
Middle: Jatzpark in Davos is one of the best freestyle parks in the Swiss Alps set up with four different lines to suit all skill levels.
Right: The ski area of Parsenn connects the towns of Davos and Klosters. It is known for its well-groomed slopes and a high altitude
that guarantees snow from November to April.
In sunny conditions take lunch on the deck at the Erezsass, where you can also stay the night with nothing but mountain silence and the scent of rösti in the air. For novelty value, stay in the Igloo Village where you can fill up on local mulled wine and fondue before hopping into a sheepskin clad bed made up for you in your very own igloo.
You’ll likely encounter downhill ski race trainees practicing their turns at Madrisa or Jakobshorn. Whether intimidating or encouraging, it’s a privilege to observe potential Olympic contenders so close you can feel their slipstream whipping past your cheek. If the courses are empty, no one will begrudge you having a go at navigating the gates and getting a taste of winter sports competition. For daredevils, Jakobshorn also has a snow park for big air jumps and powder for off-piste freestyling.
Left: Originally opened as a luxury sanatorium in 1900, the Art Nouveau style Berghotel Schatzalp offers a spectacular location on a sun terrace above Davos. You can reach the hotel via a funicular within four minutes from the centre of town.
Right: The Belle Epoque restaurant at Berghotel occupies the historic dining hall: an elegant
turn-of-the-century ambience with period detailing, large windows and mountain views.
For a history lesson on foot, take the afternoon off to visit the Schatzalp – the sanatorium created by Alexander Spengler, the physician who founded Davos as a recuperation village in the pre-antibiotic era when TB was rife in Europe. The Schatzalp can be accessed by a 15-minute funicular and remains a hotel with Bel Epoque minimalism. The uncluttered rooms offer a welcome respite from overstimulation, creating an ideal environment for creative work or personal retreat, with nothing to distract from the magnificent mountain views. If you are there between Christmas and New Year, pop down to the rink to watch the revered ice hockey tournament, the Spengler Cup.
Davos-Klosters isn’t one experience, it’s many stitched together by sport, history and a landscape that changes with every turn. One minute you are sweeping down open bowls under a cathedral of sky and the next, gliding through pine corridors into a valley that feels untouched. And whether you crave speed, scenery, or the simple pleasure of a long run home, these mountains know how to deliver.
Destination Davos Klosters: www.davos.ch and www.klosters.ch
Access via Zurich Airport (SWISS) and train to either Davos Platz or Klosters
Book/plan your journey: www.myswitzerland.com
Author: Juliet Brook
Lead image: Davos glowing quietly beneath its winter blanket. © Marcel Giger.
Thinking of a ski holiday? You may want to consider Obertauern, Gstaad and other Alpine destinations recommended by I-M Inquisitive Minds, HERE.
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