There’s something utterly enchanting about the way Van Cleef & Arpels approaches watchmaking – it’s never just about telling time, but about telling stories. Their latest creations, the Perlée Extraordinaire Fruits Enchantés Myrtille and Framboise watches, are no exception. They are miniature windows into an enchanted woodland where berries glisten with morning dew and fairies dance through golden beaded cases.
At first glance, one might assume this is another exercise in pretty decoration, but dig deeper and you’ll discover something far more profound. Van Cleef & Arpels has spent sixteen months developing a proprietary façonné enamel technique specifically for these watches – a testament to the Maison’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological artistry. This isn’t simply about applying enamel; it’s about sculpting it into three-dimensional forms that capture the plump, sun-kissed curves of ripe berries with startling realism.
The process itself reads like something from an alchemist’s manual. Enamel powder is delicately poured into moulds, fired twice at precise temperatures, then successively polished and carved to achieve the desired form. The final glazing at high temperature creates that luminous, almost edible quality that makes you want to pluck these virtual berries right from the dial. The result is a striking visual effect that merges volume and transparency – exactly what you’d expect from fruit hanging heavy on summer branches.
Left: assembling a raspberry in façonné enamel on the dial of the Perlée Extraordinaire Fruits Enchantés Framboise watch.
Right: the same delicate procedure on the Myrtille, with blueberries. putting together blueberries in façonné enamel on the dial.
But Van Cleef & Arpels doesn’t stop at horticultural mimicry. Each dial tells a complete story, with delicate foliage rendered through miniature painting emerging against textured gold that evokes a woodland floor. Two sculpted gold fairies – one in rose gold for the Framboise, one in white gold for the Myrtille – gracefully enter this tableau, their diamond-set wings catching light as they toy with time’s passage. These aren’t mere decorative elements; they’re the protagonists in a narrative about the fleeting beauty of nature’s bounty.
The attention to detail extends to elements you might never see. Turn over the Framboise model and you’ll find an engraved ladybug on the caseback: the Myrtille features a delicate butterfly. These hidden touches speak to the Maison’s understanding that true luxury lies not just in what’s visible, but in what’s known only to the wearer.
The round cases, adorned with Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature golden beads, provide the perfect frame for these miniature masterpieces. Diamonds illuminate the case edges, creating a jewelled border that enhances rather than competes with the dial’s artistry. It’s a masterclass in restraint – knowing when enough sparkle is enough, and when the real star should be the craftsmanship itself.
Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Extraordinaire Fruits Enchantés Framboise (left) and Myrtille (right) watches feature three-dimensional enamel berries and diamond-set gold fairies within signature beaded cases.
Each watch requires up to 300 hours of work, with enamellers, engravers, miniature painters, and stone-setters all contributing their expertise. This collaborative approach is quintessentially Van Cleef & Arpels – a Maison that has always understood that the most extraordinary timepieces emerge not from individual genius, but from the harmony of multiple artistic disciplines.
The Swiss quartz movements might raise eyebrows among mechanical purists, but they miss the point entirely. These watches aren’t about horological complications; they’re about artistic ones. The choice of quartz allows the focus to remain squarely on the dial’s extraordinary craftsmanship, ensuring that every element serves the overall narrative rather than competing for attention.
In an era where many luxury watches feel increasingly similar, the Perlée Extraordinaire Fruits Enchantés pieces stand apart through their sheer audacity to be different. They’re unashamedly romantic, unapologetically whimsical, and utterly committed to their fairy-tale aesthetic. Whether you find this enchanting or excessive will depend entirely on your relationship with fantasy – but there’s no denying the technical and artistic achievement these pieces represent.
Van Cleef & Arpels has once again proven that when it comes to transforming precious materials into poetry, few can match their particular brand of magic.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Photography: Johann Sauty
If you are a fan of decorative artistry in watches, you may enjoy reading about the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Shooting Star.
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