The third week of Advent starts on Gaudete Sunday, which can fall on any date between the 11th and the 17th of December. The term is derived from the Latin opening words of the introit antiphon, “Rejoice (Gaudete) in the Lord always.” It refers to the anticipation at the approach of the Christmas celebration. In terms of which of the Advent candles you light this week, that would be the pink one – which represents joy – while the two previous ones were purple – for penance. If you think this is complicated, wait until you see the timepieces in our horological Advent calendar this week.
If precision timing is your concern, especially with the Christmas dinner to make, then the H Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton (£79,000) in steel, with a “Funky Blue” fumé domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock, allowing you a full view of the remarkable three-dimensional movement, is the watch for you. Combining the cylindrical hairspring with the one-minute flying tourbillon gives rise to the highest level of precision for a mechanical escapement. At Moser, each cylindrical hairspring is shaped by hand evoking a design that was the invention of the late 18th century English watchmaker John Arnold.
Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton featuring a cylindrical hairspring from derived from an invention of the late 18th century English watchmaker John Arnold.
The cylindrical – occasionally known as a helical or spherical – hairspring offers enhanced isochronic performance, with a constant oscillation period that results from the hairspring’s nearly perfect centre of gravity; as a result, it should beat concentrically in every position, regardless of amplitude, position, or power reserve. You can buy it HERE:
To measure the year in the build up to Christmas, you couldn’t choose better than the Patek Philippe Grand Complication ref. 5270J (£146,660). It is the “old Father Time” of perpetual calendar watches. The grand complication is arguably Patek Philippe’s “sweet spot”. They were the first movers in the arena and remain the traditional choice even today. The yellow gold cased variant is as classic as it gets with a dial layout and design that has remained unchanged for approximately 80 years.
The Patek Philippe Grand Complication ref. 5270J, a classic in design and the quintessential perpetual calendar watch.
Testament to the longevity that, in calendar terms, was first released back in the 1940s. The day and month appear in two small apertures under the 12 o’clock position: the date on the subdial part at 6 o’clock. The leap year indicator is placed in the round aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. Couple in a chronograph and a moon phase and you have the quintessential grand complication perpetual calendar watch. You can buy it HERE:
If you need to time any part of Santa’s flight, from start to finish, or may be measure how long he takes in each household, then look no further than the MB&F Evo Sequential (£155,500). A unique form for a chronograph from the horological imagination of Stephen McDonnell and Max Busser.
The MB&F Evo Sequential, a unique dual chronograph watch that allows the intermittent timing of two events.
The watch showcases a fully integrated dual chronograph system (the same as a rattrapante) developed featuring a proprietary “Twinverter” switch, allowing multiple timing modes. It is the only form of chronograph that allows the timing of two events simultaneously with multiple settings for stop/start/and reset on the two chronographs. A triumph that was deservedly and rightly awarded the Aguille d’Or at the GPHG 2022. You can buy it HERE:
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Red 3D Carbon (£173,000). The qualities of carbon that make it so popular in motor racing also apply to its appeal for watchmakers. Light and tough at the same time, Hublot uses carbon as a fibre mesh embedded in a special resin and adds an extra form of it woven on three planes, to make the structure three-dimensional. This red 3D carbon is applied to its 49mm case and to the bezel. The sophisticated list of materials continues in the clasp, made of black ceramic and clack-plated titanium. Red structured lined rubber has been chosen for the strap.
The HublotMP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Red contains an esoteric mix of new materials and traditional complicated horology
The movement, a proprietary manual winding tourbillon bi-axis, calibre with five days of power reserve, showcases a bi-axial tourbillon set at 6 o’clock, which rotates once every minute and once every 30 seconds. An indicator at 9 o’clock informs of the remaining energy available. You can buy it HERE:
For those who prefer a more classic look for their precision timekeeper, then the design and finishing of the Breguet Tradition with Fusée Tourbillon ref. 7047PT (£173,000) will surely be a winner. The nearest visual form to watches made by Breguet himself, the Tradition line opens up the movement so all parts are visible. This version comes with a platinum case, a silvered dial, blued elements to the movement, and an anthracite-coloured frosted finish on the plates.
The Breguet Tradition with Fusée Tourbillon is as close in design to the watches made my Abraham Louis Breguet.
A fusée wind mechanism is particularly complex in a wristwatch having usually been found in clocks in the 18th century, as the small chain that transmits power from the main spring to the gears has to be kept taut despite its diminutive size. The watch features a large tourbillon escapement in keeping with the vintage inspired design and the fact that it was invented by Abraham Louis Breguet. You can buy it HERE:
If we are talking about complications, we have to mention Bovet’s Récital 26 Brainstorm â Chapter Two Red Gold (£359,000). The original – released in 2020 – won the GPHG Award for Mechanical Exception. It is not difficult to see why. For starters, its 46mm writing slope case in 18k red gold makes it look particularly elegant, as it does the exhibition case-back and the way the dial has been divided to show all its functions in a clear and unobtrusive manner.
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm â Chapter Two in red gold effortlessly integrates high-watchmaking expertise, decorative arts and innovation.
Its in-house double-face flying tourbillon is shown at 6 o’clock. The seconds are read by an index fixed on the tourbillon itself, which makes a complete revolution every 60 seconds. At 3 o’clock you find the world time indication in an easy-to-read display. The dome dial shows the local time (hours and minutes) at 12 o’clock. The moon phase displays both hemispheres at the same time. The indicator rotates in sync with the lunar cycles and requires only a one-day correction every 127 years. With a power reserve of five days, one thing you won’t have to worry about in your travels is winding your watch. You can buy it HERE:
To help Santa circumnavigate the globe, especially if the Rudolf “red nose” radar fails, we can’t think of a better way to help him traverse the heavens in the nocturnal high-speed flight than with the IWC Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia (POA). The Sidérale Scafusia is a technical tour de force. On the dial side, the watch provides both mean solar and sidereal time. The back reveals a star chart customised to show the night sky from a location specified by the owner.
The technical accomplisment that is the IWC Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia allows celestial timing via its sidereal time star chart.
Drawn in the form of a celestial chart with the outline of the constellations, the stars above the horizon line (the aperture in yellow) are those that should be visible to the wearer at that their chosen location. Uniquely the crystal on the back is also polarised, so the display appears grey during the day and blue after dark. The mechanism is regulated with a constant force tourbillon escapement that allows precise timekeeping. Indicators are also given for sunrise and sunset to help Santa ensure that his flight is conducted during the night. You can buy it HERE:
Words: Dr Andrew Hildreth and Julia Pasarón
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