The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel (QP) is one of the latest incarnations of Hermès’ watchmaking philosophy, fusing Parisian graphic finesse with high-end mechanical horology. Introduced as part of the Slim d’Hermès collection – by creative director Philippe Delhotal – the perpetual calendar model embodies the brand’s dress watch line, where ultrathin elegance pairs with serious wristwear credentials.
The very first Slim d’Hermès line debuted in 2015 at Baselworld and was noted for its distinctive bespoke numeral typeface by French graphic designer Philippe Apeloig, which gave the watch a distinct and modern look. The primary movement was the – at the time – new ultra-thin H1950 automatic developed in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. One of the first complications, as with this latest release, was a perpetual calendar model, which won the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Calendar Watch award that same year.
The new dial layout for the rose gold, galvanic brown-dialled Quantième Perpétuel (left) and the original GPHG winning watch from 2015 (right).
At the heart of the new rose gold QP is the same H1950 ultra-thin automatic calibre. The sleek profile for the watch comes from integrating the Agenhor-designed perpetual calendar module – renowned for its compact architecture and energy efficiency – onto the H1950. The movement features hand-bevelled bridges, perlage and fine Geneva stripes, all evidence of Hermès’ rising technical standards in watchmaking.
The module contains the necessary gearing to show date, day, month, leap year, GMT and moonphase while automatically adjusting for differing month lengths and leap years. The next correction is 75 years away, in 2100. Impressively, the full assembly (movement plus module) remains just four mm thick, allowing the case to measure around 39.5 mm in diameter, preserving the watch’s refined, understated silhouette.
The two sides to the Quantième Perpétuel movement. Left, the Agenhor-designed perpetual calendar module that is powered by the Hermès H1950 micro-rotor calibre on the right.
The galvanic brown dial features the same Hermès proprietary typography by Philippe Apeloig. The modern geometry numerals, especially for the redesigned month, leap year and GMT, give it a visual identity instantly recognisable. The same design language extends to calendar indications, ensuring a unified coherence across the dial. The moonphase displays the moon in white mother-of-pearl against an aventurine darkened sky, depending on the model. Subdials remain wonderfully legible thanks to subtle stepped layering and ultra-fine snailed textures. The aesthetic remains minimalist with slim baton hands, a polished–brushed case and the brand’s signature thin, elegantly stitched leather straps crafted in Hermès’ own ateliers.
Overall, the new Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel is a compelling demonstration – especially at the price of CHF 39,550 – of how the Maison merges graphic design, artisanal craft and mechanical innovation, producing a perpetual calendar that is not only technically accomplished but unmistakably Hermès in both spirit and style.
Author: Andrew Hildreth
Lead image © Joel-Von-Allmen
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