Lifestyle

Unapologetically me

Damian Hurley was born famous. Even though his mother, Elizabeth Hurley, put her career on hold to look after him, paparazzi would harass them on a daily basis. His teenage years were tainted with the death of important people in his life, the mark of which is palpable in his short film The Boy on the Beach and his debut feature-length film as a director, Strictly Confidential. Our Editor-in-Chief, Julia Pasarón, had the chance to catch up with him recently and learn who Damian Hurley really is.

Blessed with ridiculously good looks and having had his every need always catered for, Damian could easily have become an insufferable brat. Instead, this young man is devastatingly charming and easy-going. He has been obsessed with the world of celluloid since an early age, which is no surprise given that his mother is an actress and his godparents include industry giants Hugh Grant and Sir Elton John. Growing up, Damian used to hijack every holiday, torturing his long-suffering family and friends to act in his mini-movies, shot on a Flip Video camera given to him…

The world’s first zero-emissions villa

Located on the hills of Sotogrande, one of the most sought-after destinations in southern Europe among lovers of golf, polo and luxury life in general, Villa Noon is billed as the world’s first zero-emissions villa. Not only that, Villa Noon also generates its own water… from the sun. Viewed as a ground-breaking achievement in sustainable […]

Italian Design for luxury contemporary living

The signature elegant luxury of  Rocco Forte Hotels has been transposed to a beautiful new setting with the unveiling of Rocco Forte House Milan. After the plaudits received by Rocco Forte House Rome, the group is now opening eleven graceful new apartments on the highly desirable Via Manzoni in the very centre of Milan. They […]

by Julia Pasarón

Although there is little doubt that fossil fuel vehicles have their expiry date written all over their shiny bonnets, drivers are all but convinced that going electric is the solution at present. There are too many fears. Our Editor Julia Pasarón, who last year spent quite some time testing electric cars, has spoken to insurers, manufacturers and industry organisations to identify these fears and find out how smooth you can expect the transition to electric driving to be. According to a survey of 1,000 drivers conducted by Uswitch, the 10 biggest worries about electric-driving are:

• Number of local, accessible charging points – 31.6%
• Cost of an electric or hybrid car – 30.0%
• I’m worried it would run out of battery whilst driving – 29.7%
• Time it takes to charge an electric car – 26.2%
• Cost of having a home charging point installed– 25.3%
• Electricity bills would increase with
a charge point at home – 20.9%
• Repairs are more expensive – 16.0%
• There aren’t enough mechanics qualified to repair them – 13.4%
• I would forget to charge it – 11.3%
• My car insurance will be much more expensive – 9.4%

Having found myself anxiously going from one service station to another looking for an available charge point in working condition, I very much sympathise with what is known as “range anxiety” in the electric-driving world. The race to install more charging points across the UK is on and today, there are over 36,000 in 13,000 locations. Still, this means just one public charge point for every four cars, with urban areas being much better equipped than their rural counterparts. Finding a charging point in the country can be like finding Wally.Another issue is the fact that you have to subscribe to a million different suppliers to recharge your car, which involves handing over tons of personal data, credit card details and of course, dealing with the common occurrence of something going wrong while you download the app, fill in your application, etc, etc.

The race to install more charging points across the UK is on…

Tesla is the only company with its own charging-point network. © Chad Russell.

Rumour has it that there are discussions among suppliers to simplify all this process.We can only hope. Mercedes and BMW seem to be leading the way. “Mercedes me Charge” is available as standard for three years on models such as EQA or EQC, giving customers convenient access to the biggest charging networks via a single subscription. BMW has partnered with BP Pulse to offer access to the largest network of public charging stations in the UK with a single card. ChargeNow allows customers to use over 7,000 locations in the country for £7.85 a month.

The majority of these charging points are free to use but there will be some posts on the network where you’ll have to pay. This cost from 12p per kWh depending on what type of charging unit is used (this is cheaper than the average cost of charging at home). Last, you have to consider the time it takes to charge your vehicle. In a fast charging point you can go up to 80% in 30 minutes, but more often than not, this is not the case… at least in my experience. From a domestic plug, you are looking at leaving it overnight if you want to find your car with 100% of juice. Each manufacturer is different and new models are much more efficient and quicker to charge. Speaking to Mercedes UK, their very latest EQA provides a range of up to 263 miles and charges from 10 to 80 percent in around 40 minutes, and from 10 to 100 percent in five hours and 45 minutes using an 11 kW wall box. Which brings us to another important factor to consider: the viability, cost and efficiency of installing your own charging point at home. There is funding available from Government schemes to help manage the cost of installation.

The BMW i3s, one of the most popular cars among urban electric drivers.

The Electric Vehicle Homecharge Scheme (EVHS) provides grant funding of up to £350 towards the cost of installing electric vehicle charge points at domestic properties across the UK.  Prices vary depending on manufacturer and speed; however, typically a 3kW unit will cost between £250 and £500, while a 7kW charge point will cost between £450 and £800. In terms of how much this is going to rack up your electricity bill, for an average electric car with a 60kWh battery and 200-mile range, the cost comes to about £8.40 for a full charge. However you look at it, this is far less than petrol. A different question all together is where this electricity comes from (renewable sources? Coal?) but as Scarlet O’Hara would say, “I’ll think about that tomorrow.” Most of you may be wondering, “Yes, that is all very well but how often do I have to stop to charge?” The answer, I’m afraid, is not straightforward. Ranges are calculated at “optimal” driving conditions, that is, driving like your grandmother (60mph with no sudden acceleration).

If you do, the cars will get very close to their advertised range, if you don’t, you are looking at about 2/3 of the claimed range. Tesla comes top of the podium with ranges of over 300 miles (but the tag price is also top of the scale, with the cheaper Model 3 costing around £47,000 and the Model S knocking you off nearly £80k). One of my favourites is the Jaguar I-Pace, with a range of nearly 300 miles and a cost of around £65,000. Similar in price but with a bit shorter reach is the Mercedes EQC as well as the Audi e-tron, whose range is just 20 miles less but its price falls below the £60k mark. The good news is that most of the top brands have refined their navigation systems so the on-board computer uses numerous factors to plan a route, including any necessary charging stops. They take into account the current electric range and power consumption, which is individually determined by the driving style, topography and traffic flow as well as available charging stations. The route calculation is generally based on the fastest route taking the shortest charging time into account – therefore quick-charging stations are given preference.

The Smartfortwo Cabrio is very affordable and as cute as a button.

Female drivers seem to be more concerned than men about the cost of electric cars (37.5% vs. 28.08%) in comparison to similar fossil fuel models. However, there is a Government £3,000 plug-in car grant for vehicles that produce CO2 emissions of less than 50g/km and can travel at least 112km (70 miles) without any emissions at all. Unfortunately it seems that this grant is about to disappear all together. After looking at the most popular new models, it seems a Smart car is the most cost-efficient option. The brand now only sells electric cars, and the EQ Fortwo is the smallest and most economical of them at around £16,850. Furthermore, they look really cute and are a lot of fun to drive, so if you just want the car to run around locally doing errands, this is definitely a strong contender. Don’t forget that 94% of UK car journeys are less than 25 miles (according to the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders). Another favourite among short-distance electric drivers is the BMW i3, which can cost significantly less to run than comparable petrol and diesel vehicles. A driver travelling 10,000 miles per year would spend around £360 charging a BMW i3 120Ah at home, whereas a comparable petrol vehicle would cost around £1,400 to fuel. Some car manufacturers such as Renault also offer electric car battery leasing, which gives you the option to hire batteries instead of buying them with your car. As a result, the purchase price is significantly reduced, however, a monthly battery leasing cost will be incurred. Just like buying a car on finance, this offer is designed to make it more affordable for those buying a new electric car. 

“What about repairs and maintenance?” you may ask. Well, despite the urban legend of electric vehicles being more expensive to maintain and repair, the truth is that they are not.

Repairing an electric car is often much less hassle in comparison to a petrol or diesel motor, which contains hundreds of working parts that need replacing over time. The engine, radiator, pistons, spark plugs, fuel pumps, cooling systems, exhaust system and timing belt are some of the most common parts that often need repairing. Meanwhile, an electric car has a lot less to wear out, so while the parts may be more expensive, you hopefully won’t need to have as many repairs over time.  In addition, research by automotive data experts KeeResources revealed that an electric car costs at least 30% less to service and maintain than a regular vehicle, depending on the model you opt for and how you drive it. Alongside the cost of repairs there is the general concern about how many qualified mechanics are currently equipped to deal with electric repairs. 

Recent data from the Institute of the Motor Industry (IMI) revealed there are currently between 13,000 and 20,000 qualified technicians working on 380,000 plug-in vehicles across the UK, which equates to around one mechanic per 20 electric vehicles. The industry body is worried that as EV and PHEV adoption increases, the number of vehicles will further outweigh the number of mechanics who can work on them, as Covid-19 has set training back, with the number of certificates down 85 percent on the same period last year. To help get more mechanics fully trained, the IMI is now calling for support and incentives to be given to automotive firms to increase the number of technicians being trained to work on EVs, as well as improve and implement recruitment and apprenticeship schemes. There is a similar assumption about electric being more expensive than fossil fuel when it comes to insurance.

This has been in general true until now, but as electric cars sales are rising, premiums are starting to fall.  Aviva, one of the biggest insurance companies in the country, are confident that as the electric vehicle market grows, any cost differentials will come down, particularly as vehicle safety features become more prevalent. Looking at specific examples, the insurance group ratings for BMW i3 models are comparable to similarly priced BMW 1 Series models. However, the final cost for insurance would be determined by each insurer.

The onboard computer of the new Mercedes EQA optimises your route to avoid range anxiety and unnecessary delays.

If you are not sure about going 100% electric but want to do your bit to reduce automotive CO2 emissions, a good option is to take an intermediate step and go first for a plug-in-hybrid, which will allow you to get used to electric driving and discover how practical it is in every-day life. For millions of UK drivers, today’s PHEV technology already offers the opportunity to cover substantial parts of their daily commute, if not all of it, using only electric power, whilst having the flexibility of the combustion engine available for longer drives when required.

by Dr Andrew Hildreth

It all started with a road race. The “Carrera Panamericana” was inaugurated in 1950 by the Mexican government and was scheduled as a six-day border-to-border dash to celebrate the completion of Mexico’s portion of the Panamerican Highway. It was considered the most dangerous and exotic race in the world attracting the very best drivers and cars. Participants approached the race with a win-at-all-costs mentality.

The early 1950s was an exciting time to be in motor racing. During the time the race was held, there had been considerable technical transformations in the design and manufacture of the cars, especially among the European entries. The speed on the race stages had almost doubled as a result and with this came concerns over safety controls. Rules about the racing, for competitors and spectators alike, remained static and casualties increased over the time the Carrera Panamericana was being run.

Because of safety concerns and the expense to the government, in 1955 President Adolfo Ruiz Cortines cancelled the race announcing that its original task of publicising the highway was complete. The 1954 event was the most tragic with a record total number of deaths. In this year of misfortune, Porsche drove to success with their 550 Spyder, in the Small Sports Car category.

It has been a long road for two brands inspired by the same race and using the same name to come together…

Jack Heuer (left) with Niki Lauda and Clay Regazzoni.

Porsche put their trust in a young German driver: Hans Hermann, who (with the same car marque) would go onto class victory at Le Mans with Jo Siffert in 1967 and a famous overall victory with Richard Attwood in 1970. To commemorate the win, Porsche named and designated the Carrera in late 1954: a new design and a four-cam racing “Carrera” engine were fitted into the 356S. The 911 Carrera made its first appearance in 1963, coincidentally, the same year that Heuer introduced the chronograph with the same name. TAG Heuer has been connected to motor racing in some form from the 1960s. Jack Heuer (great-grandson of the original founder) designed the original Carrera.

It was a very simple concept, with only the registers and applied markers on the dial. The fixed inner bezel was divided into 1/5 second increments. Jack tells the story of his inspiration behind the watch: “I first heard about the Carrera from Pedro Rodriguez at the Twelve Hours of Sebring, where I was the Official Timekeeper. He and his brother Ricardo were two of the fastest, smartest and bravest endurance drivers of all time. To hear them talk of the Carrera, which our brand’s long-time friend Juan-Manuel Fangio had won in 1953, but which had been stopped in 1955 after a number of fatalities, made my imagination soar. Just by the sound of the name itself – elegant, dynamic, easily pronounced in all languages and charged with emotion, I knew that my new chronograph was the perfect tribute to this legend.”

The design of the original 1963 Carrera was inspired by the instrument panel of a racing car, where the key was legibility and clarity. Being designed for motor racing meant that the watch had to be a chronograph (that is, include a stopwatch feature) with a tachymeter scale, allowing speed to be calculated. It was Jack Heuer that initiated the brand’s link to Porsche through a creative sponsorship with racing driver and Porsche dealer Jo Siffert.

The Porsche 550 Spyder with driver Hans Herrmann, Carrera Panamericana, 1954.

Recalling the terms of the arrangement, Jack noted it was a good deal for the watch brand, “In exchange for CHF 25,000, he (Jo) would put our logo on his car and suit. In addition, he could buy our watches at wholesale prices and resell them to his racing friends at a substantial profit; which he did with great success because half of the F1 paddock was wear- ing Heuer watches by the end of the 1969 season!” Jack Heuer globalised the brand by persuading Enzo Ferrari to feature the Heuer insignia on his Formula 1 cars. As well as Jo Siffert, the watches were worn by legendary drivers like Jochen Rindt, Mario Andretti and later, Ayrton Senna. The Heuer brand became synonymous with the sport. It was also the Porsche connection that led to the pioneering product placement and a starring role in the racing movie “Le Mans” with Steve McQueen. The ascent to global recognition for the watch brand was complete.

In the years since, there has continued to be an association, but not a co-branding or partnership arrangement. There was the link between Porsche and TAG Heuer (when the Swiss watch brand was acquired by the TAG Group in the mid-1980s) which also produced the TAG-Turbo engine used by the McLaren team to win three consecutive F1 world titles: with Niki Lauda in 1984, followed by Alain Prost in 1985 and 1986. There was the Porsche Carrera Cup and Supercup competitions in 1999. More recently, in 2019, TAG Heuer was a founding partner of the Porsche Formula E team as title and timing partner. This year, the watch manufacturer announced that it was teaming up with Porsche for a wide-ranging and long-term partnership that includes a variety of initiatives ranging from (unsurprisingly) special edition chronographs to shared materials and technology.

TAG Heuer and Porsche have common history and values, of course, but more importantly, we share an attitude…

– Frédéric Arnault (TAG Heuer CEO).

TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault noted that the time is right for this partnership: “TAG Heuer and Porsche have common history and values, of course, but more importantly, we share an attitude. Like Porsche, we are disruptors at heart, always in pursuit of high performance. With this alliance, TAG Heuer and Porsche finally come together officially and will create unmatched experiences and products for customers and fans that are passionate about both our brands and what we stand for.” Likewise, for the other half of the brand partnership, Detlev von Platen, Member of the Executive Board for Sales and Marketing at Porsche AG declared that “The strong friendship of our brand with TAG Heuer has existed for decades and I am more than happy that we are now taking the next steps in the frame of a strategic partnership.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph.

We bring together what our customers love the most about both of us: authentic heritage, thrilling sports events, unique life experiences and the fulfilment of dreams. We both strive to create some unique, magic moments for our communities. We now look forward to doing it together.” The new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche chronograph stays true to the original heritage described by Jack Heuer; a watch that is inspired and stays true to the instrument panel and aesthetics of the modern-day Porsche Carrera.

While certainly larger than the original, at 44mm in diameter, the new Porsche Carrera chronograph has a red/black/white styling that mirrors Porsche Motorsports’ racing colours: a black ceramic bezel and a textured charcoal grey dial with luminous Arabic numerals. The watch even features a display caseback showing a winding rotor design that looks like the steering wheel of a Porsche 911.

The movement beneath the dial is TAG’s proprietary Heuer Automatic 02, which features a vertical clutch and column wheel along with a power reserve of 80 hours and a maximum 12-hour measure for the chronograph. The watch can come fitted with either a stitched leather strap or a steel bracelet. It has been a long road for two brands inspired by the same race and using the same name for its products to come togeth- er in a collaborative arrangement. Given the overtures made by the CEOs of both TAG and Porsche, the new path stretches into the distant horizon for some time to come.

The most-loved scooter in the world turns 75

Vespa is to scooters what Xerox is to photocopying. The two concepts have become so inextricably intertwined that in many countries, they refer to all scooters as “Vespas” regardless of their actual brands. Vespa has been immortalised in films such as La Dolce Vita, Roman Holiday, Cinema Paradiso or Quadrophenia; and loved by celebrities, from George Clooney to Emma Watson, Brad Pitt, Naomi Watts, Jude Law and hundreds more.

With 75 years of history (Piaggio registered its patent on 23 April 1946) and more than 18 million of them on the road in five continents, Vespa has become a common thread between generations, steering habits, music and youth, witnessing electrifying first kisses, painful break-ups, sunsets by the sea and the dreams of the millions of youngsters she has carried on her back over the decades.

Vespa has become an icon of culture and design, an industrial and commercial phenomenon that has endured for three quarters of a century. It is the most recognisable symbol of modern Italian creativity around the world and a unique example of immortality in the history of industrial design. As it celebrates this wonderful milestone, Vespa is experiencing one of the happiest moments of her long life. Since 2004, when 58,000 vehicles were produced, the growth of the Vespa brand has been constant and spectacular.

Enrico Piaggio himself named the scooter. Standing in front of the MP6 prototype…

The very first Vespa 98 from 1946.

More than 100,000 units were produced in 2006, arriving at 180,000 in 2017 and passing the benchmark of 200,000 units in both 2018 and 2019. In the last decade alone, more than 1,800,000 new Vespa vehicles have been produced and taken out on roads all over the world.

Today, Vespa is a more global brand than ever before, a real citizen of the world, made at three production sites: Pontedera, the plant where Vespas have been built uninterruptedly since 1946 with production destined for Europe and Western markets, the Americas included; Vinh Phuc, in Vietnam, which serves the local market and the Far East; and India, at the ultra modern Baramati factory, opened in April 2012 to manufacture Vespas for the Indian market.

To understand her story, we have to go back to WWII, when Piaggio was one of the largest Italian aeroplane manufacturers and whose plants were destroyed during the conflict. Enrico and Armando Piaggio began the process of re-starting industrial production immediately after the war. The Vespa ( “wasp” in Italian) was the result of Enrico’s determination to create a low cost product for the masses. As the end of the war drew near, Enrico studied every solution possible to relaunch production in his plants, beginning with the one in Biella, where a “motor scooter” was created on the model of the small motorcycles for parachutists.

Early Vespa marketing brochures.

The prototype, known as MP5, was nicknamed “Paperino” (Italian for Donald Duck) due to its strange shape, but Enrico Piaggio did not like it, asking Corradino D’Ascanio – who had just fallen out with owner of Lambretta, Innocenti – to redesign it. The aeronautical designer was not a fan of motorcycles, which he considered to be uncomfortable and bulky vehicles with tyres that were too difficult to change in the event of a puncture and dirty, especially due to the drive chain. The engineer found the solution to every problem by drawing on his aeronautical experience.

To eliminate the chain he imagined a vehicle with a stress-bearing body and direct mesh; to make it easier to ride, he put the gear lever on the handlebar; to make tyre chang- ing easier he designed not a fork, but a supporting arm similar to an aircraft carriage. Last but not least, he designed a body that would protect the driver, to keep him from getting dirty or dishevelled. Decades before the spread of ergonomic studies, the riding position of the Vespa was designed to let the rider sit comfortably and safely, not balanced dangerously as on a high-wheel motorcycle.

With the help of Mario D’Este, his trusted designer, it would only take D’Ascanio a few days to fine-tune his idea and prepare the first Vespa project, manufactured in Pontedera in April of 1946. Enrico Piaggio himself named the scooter. Standing in front of the MP6 prototype, with its wide central part where the rider sits and the narrow waist, he exclaimed: “It looks like a wasp!” And so the Vespa was born. On 23rd April 1946, Piaggio & C. S.p.A. filed a patent with the Central Patents Office for inventions, models and brand names at the Ministry of Industry and Commerce in Florence, for “a motorcycle with a rational complex of organs and elements, its body combined with the mudguards and bonnet covering all the mechanical parts”.

Piaggio did not hesitate to launch factory production of two thousand units of the first Vespa 98cc. Two versions of the Vespa 98cc went on sale with two prices: 55,000 lira for the “normal” version and 61,000 lira for the “luxury” version with a few optionals including a speedometer, lateral stand and stylish white-trim tyres. The public début of the new vehicle was held at the prestigious Rome Golf Club with the American General Stone of the allied government attending.

The Vespa PX sold more than 3 million units (1978 Vespa PX125 shown here).

It looks like a wasp!

– Enrico Piaggio.

The event was filmed by the American newsreel Movieton, Italians saw the Vespa for the first time in the pages of Motor (March 24th , 1946) and on the black and white cover of La Moto on April 15, 1946. They saw the actual vehicle at that year’s Milan show, where even Cardinal Schuster stopped to take a look, intrigued by the futuristic vehicle.

The public took to the Vespa like a kid to candy. In 1946, Piaggio put 2,484 scooters on the market. These became 10,535 the following year, and by 1948, when the larger Vespa 125 appeared, production had reached 19,822. By the time the first German licensee also started production in 1950, output topped 60,000 vehicles and just three years later, 171,200 vehicles left the plants. Licensees in Great Britain, Spain, France, Belgium and many other countries quickly followed, distribution reached the four corners of the world, from the US to China, Australia to Iran. Even ths Soviets made one: the Viatka 150cc, which was almost a perfect clone of the Vespa.

Enrico Piaggio continued tenaciously to encourage the spread of the Vespa abroad, creating an extensive service network all over Europe and the rest of the world. He maintained constant attention and growing interest around his product, with a number of initiatives that included the foundation and spread of the Vespa Clubs. By 1953, these clubs counted over 50,000 members, all opposed to the “newborn” Lambretta Innocenti.

No less than 20,000 Vespa enthusiasts turned up at the Italian “Vespa Day” in 1951. Riding a Vespa was synonymous with freedom, with agile exploitation of space and with easier social relationships. The new scooter had become the symbol of a lifestyle that left its mark on its age: in the cinema, in literature and in advertising, the Vespa appeared endlessly among the most significant symbols of a changing society.

The new scooter had become the symbol of a lifestyle that left its mark on its age…

Image from the 1953 Vespa Calendar.

Vespa fever led the way for the most imaginative versions, like the Vespa-Sidecar; the ‘67 Vespa- Alpha that – created for agent Dick Smart, the star of a 007-style spy film – could not only race on the road, but also fly, sail and go underwater; or the Vespa models built for the French army specially to carry arms and bazookas, and others that could be parachuted together with the troops. Even the Italian army asked Piaggio for a parachutable scooter in 1963.

That same year, Vespa had a little sister, the Vespa 50, following the introduction of a law in Italy making a number plate obligatory on two-wheelers over 50cc. The “Vespino” (little Vespa) was a successful addition to the Piaggio range still in pro- duction today. I don’t know here in Britain but in my country, Spain, teenage summers are synonymous with Vespino as it can be driven from the age of 14, exempt from registration plate regulations and legally permitted to carry two passengers.

One could lose count of the different mod- els and versions that Vespa has successfully brought to market. From the 1977 Vespa PX which sold more than three million units and the ET4 and ET2 range developed for the brand’s 50th anniversary in 1996 to nowadays models, characterised by an extremely advanced bearing body concept, built entirely out of steel and equipped with cutting-edge technology, I think it is fair to say that Vespa marked the evolution of individual mobility.

The 1980 Paris-Dakar squad was French and assisted by four-time winner of the Le Mans 24-hours, Henri Pescarolo.

Vespa is not only an icon of leisure mobility. It also has a racing career in her extensive CV. In Europe back in the Fifties, it took part, often successfully, in regular motorcycle races (speed and off-road), as well as unusual sporting ventures. In 1951 Piaggio built a Vespa 125cc prototype for speed racing, and it set the world speed record for a flying kilometre at an average of 171.102 km/h.

That same year, Vespa won nine gold med- als at the “International 6 Days” in Varese and took part in the first of many rallies: an expedition to Congo. Few know that in 1980, two Vespa PX 200s ridden by M. Simonot and B. Tcherniawsky reached the finishing line of the second Paris-Dakar rally. The squad, which was French and organised by Jean-François Piot, was assisted by four-time winner of the Le Mans 24-hours, Henri Pescarolo. Giancarlo Tironi, an Italian university student, reached the Arctic Circle on a Vespa. The Argentine Carlos Velez crossed the Andes from Buenos Aires to Santiago del Chile.

Year after year, Vespa gained popularity among adventurers: Roberto Patrignani rode one from Milan to Tokyo; Soren Nielsen in Greenland; Santiago Guillen and Antonio Veciana from Madrid to Athens (their Vespa was decorated personally by Salvador Dalí and it is on exhibit to this day in the Piaggio Museum); the Australian Geoff Dean took one on a round-the-world tour… and hundreds more unforgettable adventures, including an epic trip from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in 1994-1995 by writer and journalist, Giorgi Bettinelli. Life is indeed a journey and we should all enjoy the ride. Part of it should happen on a Vespa.

Opening picture: poster courtesy of at the movies posters www.atthemovies.co.uk

We need a storm of angels

Caroline de Wolfe is the owner of Felix de Wolfe, the longest established independent entertainment and literary agency in the United Kingdom. Her father, Felix de Wolfe started it in 1947 and never looked back. In 2004, after almost two decades “learning the job” Caroline took over and with her progressive approach and a team full of talent, she has kept the agency at the forefront of the industry.

Our Editor Julia Pasarón had the chance to speak to Caroline a few weeks ago to talk about the evolution of the industry in the last decades, the dangers of social media and why we need a storm of angels.

I-M: How did you learn the business?
C.dW: From the ground up. My father insisted that I do a typing course over the summer and I started in the agency as a receptionist. I must admit I was a bit taken aback as my focus was solely on becoming an agent, but my father explained that if I was ever to run the agency and understand the issues that employees would encounter I would only be able to support them fully if I’d done their job myself.

After a year, I started doing more of the general typing in the office and became my dad’s PA. Subsequently, after five years of learning about the business, he agreed that I should start going to drama schools with a view to taking on my first clients. It was a long road but my father was absolutely right. As the MD of the company it’s really important to be able to put yourself in other people’s shoes, and you can only do that if you’ve walked in them.

I-M: Over your career, which are the biggest changes you have seen in the industry?

C.dW: Without a doubt, technology. Right across the board. When I started, we had filing cabinets full of clients’ headshots. We had to go to the post office every day with a stack of mail. Every client suggestion we made for a job had to be typed, attached to the actor’s headshot and CV and then posted. Now it is all done by email. Actors can self-tape and then upload to our data- base so we can share with relevant parties; and during lockdown, a lot of auditions and meetings have happened over Zoom and Teams.

Actually, thanks to technology, it’s been possible to keep the flame of theatre from being extinguished altogether over the last year. Many theatre companies and producers have made their existing work available to watch online, including The National Theatre, RSC, Almeida, Royal Court, Royal Exchange Manchester and National Theatre of Scotland, while others have been rehearsing and streaming new productions online such as Leicester Curve’s production of Sunset Boulevard and Metcalfe Gordon’s production of Romeo & Juliet for which the cast filmed in a green screen studio and were then digitally placed on a stage in post production, so technology has also meant increased accessibility for everyone.

Many well known actors as well as emerging talent joined forces with Bookstreamz to support the NHS.

Furthermore, it’s meant that theatres who are fighting for survival have been in a position to stream productions online to raise much needed funds for their future, such as Queen’s Theatre Hornchurch, Hull Truck and Oldham Coliseum’s production of The Hired Man.

Social Media has also had a major influence on the industry, from the way in which people have direct access to industry folk and vice versa, to the importance placed on an artist’s social media following on these platforms when assessing how appealing they might be for a particular production. However, the industry itself hasn’t fundamentally changed. At its core it has always been and it will always be about storytelling. The difference is how you package it and deliver it to an audience.

I-M: What about accessibility to jobs for actors from ethnic minorities, disabled or LGBTQIA?

C.dW: The industry has improved but there’s no question in my mind that we’re still far from achieving equality, both in front of and behind the camera/stage. Awareness of the prevailing inequality has increased dramatically and action should follow suit. At the end of the day, we are an industry of storytellers and these stories should reflect what we see out there in the wider world.

The need for the imbalance to be addressed and redressed is now very apparent and among broadcasters there is a realisation about how imperative it is for audiences to see themselves in the stories they see and hear. From the point of view of our industry, I believe it’s vital for children watching television, film or theatre to see themselves reflected as it opens up a world of otherwise unimagined possibilities of careers they can do. In the same way, it’s vital in all industries that people know that there’s no glass ceiling and that anything is attainable.

I-M: Going back to social media, do you see it as friend or fiend?

C.dW: In my opinion it’s a bit of both and for us, it’s an industry tool. I always advise my clients to use it for work purposes and to think about what they’re posting. One of the down sides of it is that it offers people a cloak of invisibility behind which to hide, so they’re able to behave in a way that the majority of them would never dream of if they were face to face with you.

I really think that social media companies ought to require anyone who’s on their platforms to give their real name and have a real photo…

– Caroline de Wolfe.

There should be genuine details on there so that there’s complete transparency, responsibility and accountability in order to stamp out the appalling trolling which is all too often in evidence.

I-M: What about the over-sexualisation of children and women in media, particularly on social media. How do you feel about this? How does it affect your business?

C.dW: There is no doubt that our clients are under a lot of pressure, caused in a large part because there are not enough women in senior positions in the media and entertainment industries. For us as agents, we feel like our clients’ custodians so it’s incumbent on us to protect our clients and ensure they don’t feel unduly pressurised about their physical appearance.

Certainly the objectification and over-sexualisation of children and young women is something that we must all not only be aware of but actively reject and move away from as it undoubtedly has a profoundly negative effect on society as a whole. If that’s what people see in the media it validates them behaving like that, which makes equality much harder to attain and in my opinion, reality TV has massively contributed to this problem.

The issue is exacerbated by the social media platforms where you are validated by how many likes you get, mostly from strangers. These aren’t your friends or individuals you know and yet they have a tremendous power over people, particularly the young and vulnerable, with a potentially serious impact on their mental health.

Age is also still a problem. For actresses over 50 the availability of substantial roles significantly drops off; and this is also something that has to be recognised and addressed. If we can encourage more women in to the industry as directors, producers and writers the situation will continue to improve. We’re making inroads, but there’s still a long way to go.

I-M: The current pandemic has brought the arts and entertainment industries to their knees. How have you been supporting your clients?

C.dW: Covid has been an absolute disaster for the industry at large. The first lockdown was just so shocking that we didn’t know how to react at first. Overnight all the theatres were shut down, productions sus- pended or cancelled, our clients repatriated from all corners of the world where they were working… It was incredibly difficult to manage because we simply had no idea of what was going to happen and for how long.

Theatres have been closed for nearly a year now, with devastating consequences for everyone involved. That’s why initiatives like Bookstreamz have been a lifeline. Bookstreamz came out of a desire to continue to tell stories during lockdown. This new format is “Audible meets Netflix”. It’s a book performed by a narrator with a cast of actors who deliver the dialogue in character. Together they “perform” the book. It’s a hybrid which brings stories to life on screen so you can watch and listen, or just listen as you would with an audio book.

At the start of lockdown last year Elaine Sturgess started Bookstreamz as a way to raise money for the NHS…

Sylvester Akinrolabu as Tybalt in Romeo & Juliet, filmed and streamed during lockdown

At the start of lockdown last year Elaine Sturgess started Bookstreamz as a way to raise money for the NHS and The Big Issue Foundation, with well known and estab- lished actors working alongside new and emerging talent from TV and theatre: Ross Kemp, Russell Brand, Leslie Ash, Alexander Vlahos, Nicola Stephenson… and many faces from national TV. The response from the public was fantastic so the enterprise has continued and is going from strength to strength.

I also think it is great for students as it’s an authentic reading of a book rather than an adaptation, so schools can use it to help kids not just understand these stories but also at the moment, when they can’t take them on school trips to see theatre productions, they can still enjoy watching and listening to actors performing some of the books which are on their reading lists.

I’ve also been doing some drama school Q&A’s as the students are of course doing all of their classes online. In general the industry has been very creative and has found ways to keep some parts of the business going and provide some very much needed revenue, in spite of the theatre side of the industry being brutally hit. From workshops to streamed theatre productions, where the actors quarantine, get tested and then become each other’s bubble so they can rehearse and film productions for streaming as I mentioned earlier.

I-M: What does the road to recovery look like?

C.dW: The main challenge is going to be to get public confidence back so people return to the theatre and are comfortable sitting next to somebody they don’t know who isn’t in their bubble! Again, there are wonderful creative brains at work coming up with ways in which that can be safely achieved.

I-M: How could the Government assist?

C.dW: For starters they could do informative campaigns so people feel secure going back into theatres. They also need to support the theatre workers (from front of house to backstage staff), especially those who fell through the cracks of the Government assistance available during Covid. For example, all of the recent graduates and young professionals in the industry who are self-employed and didn’t have the required three years of accounts to be eligible for support.

The plight of actors and other theatre workers in the entertainment industry is a real one. Only a small percentage of performers able to earn enough to make it their full-time job, and with so many having slipped through the net regarding the sup- port packages they’ve been hit particularly hard. I certainly welcome the support that has been given to theatres and venues, however very little support has made its way directly to the performers themselves. The fact is that until the restrictions are eased, it’s almost impossible for many of the people who work backstage in theatres to do their job: wigs, make-up, dressers…

I certainly welcome the support that has been given to theatres and venues, however very little support has made its way directly to the performers themselves…

– Caroline de Wolfe.

I don’t know what the exact solutions are but we are going to need a significant amount of goodwill from all parties to emerge from this crisis and rebuild what’s been lost, a kind of perfect storm in which everybody comes together. And we need big injections of capital, angel investors – perhaps the Government themselves taking on that role so they have a stake in some of the productions, and subsidies to ensure job security in the sector. Our industry generates an enormous amount of revenue, and therefore taxes for the Treasury, so I genuinely believe it deserves some significant support to recover from this disastrous time.

Twitter: @felixdewolfe
Instagram: felixdewolfe

There is an extraordinary woman

As the UK Parliament has chosen March to be Women’s History Month and with Watches & Wonders round the corner, we talked to our friends at Watchfinder & Co to help us shine a light on just a few of the iconic women who have played a pivotal role in the evolution of the much loved wristwatch.

Queen Elizabeth receiving a “wristwatch” in 1571 from Robert Dudley (1926 Gruen Guild advert). Image courtesy of VintageWatchstraps.com © David Boettcher.

Elizabeth I – the first
A trendsetter in her own right; the first ever wristwatch is believed to have belonged to none other than Elizabeth I, the Queen of England. The wristwatch – a tiny clock set in a bracelet – was gifted to her by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester in 1571(1). This piece, referred to as an “arm watch” at the time, was one of two timekeeping devices she was believed to own; the other, located in a ring, also included an alarm function. Although the timepiece given to the Virgin Queen by Dudley was striking in its innovation, apparently it was not that unusual to for Dudley and his circle to offer their Queen elaborate clocks and watches as a way to show their loyalty and the value of their service.

Queen Marie Antoniette with a rose painted by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun in 1783.

Marie Antoinette – the patron
Marie Antoinette was known to be a patron of Abraham Louis Breguet, the Prussian born watchmaker whose Maison still exists and thrives today. Marie’s patronship was invaluable to the watchmaker, with the Queen of France ostensibly propagating her love for watches in general and Breguet’s in particular, to both her court and Emperors across Europe. The most famous timepiece associated with Marie Antoinette is no. 160, a pocket-watch that at the time all possible complications known to man and completely made of gold. Romantics believe that it was commissioned by her lover, Count Hans Axel von Fersen. Unfortunately the French Queen lost her head before the watch was finished. Neither Fersen nor the same Abraham Louis Breguet would see the watch either. The “160” was only finished by Breguet’s son four years after his death, in 1827.

The original Breguet n. 160, which remained horology’s most complex mechanism until the last century…

Romantics believe that it was commissioned by her lover, Count Hans Axel von Fersen. Unfortunately the French Queen lost her head before the watch was finished. Neither Fersen nor the same Abraham Louis Breguet would see the watch either. The “160” was only finished by Breguet’s son four years after his death, in 1827.

Mercedes Gleitze was the first person to swim the Straits of Gibraltar and the first British woman to swim the English channel.

Mercedes Gleitze – the headline maker 
It could be argued that Rolex, the titan of modern watchmaking, owe their initial success as a waterproof watch manufacturer to a woman called Mercedes Gleitze. In 1926, unveiled the waterproof watch that established the Swiss firm’s reputation, the Rolex Oyster. It was given this name because it was clamped shut like an oyster shell and could survive under water. Two major technical innovations made the single-case wristwatch watertight: a screw-down back and bezel, as well as a newly patented winding crown. The wearer could screw down the crown to seal the case. 

In 1926, Rolex launched the Oyster, so called because it was clamped shut like an oyster shell and could survive under water…

In 1927 Mercedes Gleitze, became the first British woman to swim the English Channel and the first ever to do so whilst wearing a waterproof watch. The watch in question was a Rolex Oyster and her cross channel accomplishment propelled the new model into the news, helping secure its place in history.

Panthère de Cartier was first marketed in 1983 and it’s been a classic ever since.

Jeanne Toussaint – the creative
Another person of importance was Jeanne Toussaint – Cartier’s Artistic Director of Jewellery. Jeanne was a young creative living in Paris in the early 1900’s. Her close-knit circle of friends included Coco Chanel, George Barbier and, most crucially, Louis Cartier – one of three brothers managing their late grandfather’s company, Cartier. In 1933, Jeanne was appointed as Cartier’s Artistic Director of Jewellery, signalling one of the most recognisable and collectible eras in the Maison’s history. Jeanne was a visionary, cited as both the muse and the driving force behind Cartier’s style in the 20th century. Her propensity to wear a full-length coat made of panther fur earned her the moniker “petite panthère” – something that has woven itself into the fabric of the Maison ever since.

Jeanne Touissant used to wear a full length panther fur coat for which Louis Cartier affectionately nicknamed her “Little Panther”…

In 1914 the first panther motif appeared on a platinum wristwatch by Cartier, it was produced with onyx and pave diamonds, in the pattern of a panther’s spots. In 1983 (7 years after Jeanne’s death) Cartier launched the Panthère. With its sleek design, concealed clasp, and linked bracelet, it quickly became a huge hit. The Panther motif continues to be present in the company’s watch collections today.
 

New Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41 mm in rose gold and a black ceramic middle case.

Jasmine Audemars – the progressive 
Jasmine Audemars is the chairwoman of the Board of Directors for Audemars Piguet – the only watchmaking brand still in the hands of its founding families. Jasmine was the editor-in-chief of the prestigious Journal de Genève for 12 years before her father asked her to take over the presidency of Audemars Piguet in the early 80s. In 1992 Jasmine succeeded her father as the chair of the Board of Directors for Audemars Piguet and has been at the helm ever since. 

We must continue to combine innovation with fine watchmaking tradition…

– Jasmine Audemars.

Under her leadership Audemars Piguet has made unprecedented progress, embracing modern trends in materials, style and updating and expanding its core offering. Jasmine also spearheads the Audemars Piguet Foundation which supports various research and development projects as well as a number of humanitarian and social initiatives.

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, introduced by Chabi, won the Aiguille d’Or at CPHG 2020.

Chabi Nouri – the award winner
The CEO of one of watchmaking’s most respected maisons, Chabi Nouri joined the Richemont group in 1998 and Piaget in 2014, becoming its CEO three years later. Since becoming CEO, Chabi has been responsible for steering Piaget through one of the industry’s most difficult and challenging periods. Her ambition has been to modernise the brand, while capitalising on its history and heritage.

Chabi is known for her passion and energy, both of which she has infused into Piaget from the moment she joined in 2014…

Last year, under Chabi’s stewardship, Piaget re-introduced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch, a 2mm thick technological marvel which won the coveted Aiguille d’Or at CPHG 2020.

The brilliant Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar.

Catherine Renier – the digital innovator
Jaeger-LeCoultre appointed Catherine Renier as their CEO in 2018. Formerly of Van Cleef & Arpels, Catherine has weathered the storm of Covid-19 and used it as an opportunity explore new digital innovations for the Swiss Maison. Last year Catherine and her team partnered with Google to allow users to explore Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest product novelty – the new Master Control Chronograph Calendar – through Google search AR. This functionality enabled users to see the watch at scale, embedded into its environment through a 360° view. They were the first watchmaking brand to beta-test such a feature.

Renier’s philosophy is based on authenticity, heritage, craftmanship and experience…

MKX

Combining characterful design and an automatic movement developed and assembled under the roof at the Manufacture, the collection represents a benchmark for the company as it is the first time that Jaeger-LeCoultre combine a chronograph with a triple calendar. 

References:
(1) https://brill.com/view/journals/erc/46/1/article-p44_44.xml

Opening picture by Henry911 for Pixabay
Picture of Jeanne Toussaint © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

“God could not be everywhere, and therefore he made mothers” – Rudyard Kipling.

If like me, you are not able to spend the day with Mummy, fear not, after racking my brains for a while I have come up with what I hope are some divine ideas to spoil our mothers while we wait for the day – not so long now – when we’ll be able to give them that long awaited hug.

Talking about time, why not spoil your mum with this Blancpain interpretation of their Villeret Women Date model, limited to 28 pieces. The white mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced by a crimson-red heart carried by the seconds hand, matching its alligator leather strap. The open worked hour and minute hands accentuate the refinement of this timepiece, enhanced by the precious touches of a diamond-set chapter ring and bezel.

The soul of this soul resides in its movement, Blancpain’s calibre 1151, endowed with a silicon balance-spring and a four-day power reserve, as well as a date display. The ever-lasting ties between mothers and their children could not be better symbolised by this exquisite timepiece. £18,700.

The beating heart of this Fabergé locket is a sustainably sourced Mozambican ruby by Gemfields…

Lockets have always been a symbol of love, traditionally carrying pictures, locks of hair or even a secret note, hidden from view but always to one’s heart. As a symbol of giving life, eggs have been present in cultures across the world since the beginning of history. Fabergé Essence Rose Gold Ruby Heart Surprise Locket features a Gemfields Mozambican ruby inside, as a symbol of the love that as children, we want to show our mothers. £5,280.

All mothers should feel like a princess at least once a year. Matsukita, a perfume first created in 1892 by the Crown Perfumery, was inspired by a fabled Japanese princess who awed the Victorian royal court with her elegance and grace. In their newest collection, perfumer Clive Christian has re-imagined this fragrance to capture its elusive elegance and bring it to women of the 21st century.

With a fresh and invigorating top of green bergamot, pink pepper and a hint of nutmeg delving into a floral and woody heart of Chinese imperial, Matsukita delivers an exotic story presented in a case that reflects its uniqueness, with an archive image hidden for discovery beneath each bottle. As with all Clive Christian perfumes each of them features their signature crown stopper, a sign of perfume prestige since 1872. £325 (50ml).

A captivating collaboration in which Bvlgari’s serpent entices with its forbidden fruit: Dom Pérignon Rosé, temptation incarnate.

Eve succumbed to the temptation offered by the serpent and so, God cursed women to endure pain and suffering bearing children. To soften the blow, Bvlgari has reinterpreted temptation in the form of a serpenti necklace wrapped around a bottle of Dom Pérignon Rosé.

It may not immediately spring to mind as a Mother’s Day gift but, given the pain any mother goes through, they very well deserved this indulgence. The Serpenti necklace in pink gold is set with onyx elements and two pear brilliant cut diamonds and diamonds pavé (24.29 carats) and it is accompanied by a case of three magnum bottles of Dom Perignon Rosé x Bvlgari Limited Edition Vintage Rosé 2004.

Each one is engraved with the Bvlgari Serpenti accent; a captivating new collaboration between two iconic Maisons.

Available exclusively at Bvlgari’s boutique in New Bond St. Tel.  020 7872 9969

After this year of travel restriction, what better way to end our suggestions for Mother’s Day than a reservation for a Spa weekend at the Old Course Hotel in St Andrews, Scotland. With breath-taking views of the Scottish coastline, the Old Course is the perfect post-lockdown rural retreat for an staycation.

Their award-winning Kohler Waters Spa features 13 treatment rooms, including two twin rooms for couples, a 20m pool, along with the Kohler Waters Thermal Suite, which includes a hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room and plunge pool. Mum will be able to relax and enjoy and extensive range of treatments, using the healing benefits of natural mineral rich water, from therapeutic massages and facials by Phytomer, to body wraps and scrubs, as well as a range of unique wet treatments.

Their Spa Getaway package includes and overnight stay, full Scottish breakfast, three-course dinner in any of their restaurants, a light lunch at their Spa Café, 50-minute custom massage or facial and access to the fitness centre and leisure pool. Available from £662 per room, per stay (double/ twin occupancy).

Opening picture by © Nicholas Githiri for Pexels.

by Jo Foley

For over thirty years Meryanne Loum-Martin has been the style setter of Marrakesh and here she brings all her knowledge, expertise and taste under one roof as she explores and explains the mysteries and magic of Moroccan design traditions.

INSIDE MARRAKESH – Enchanting Homes and Gardens – is a stunning compilation of some of the city’s most beautiful palaces, riads and villas as well as a magical tour of the gardens with Loum-Martin as your guide, while Jean Cazals photographed all in their glory.

Loum-Martin, a lawyer turned tastemaker, arrived in Marrakesh some thirty years ago and set about falling in love with the place while promoting its arts, crafts and beauty.  Her own award-winning boutique hotel- Jnane Tamsna – was the backdrop for her love of the traditional mixed with the contemporary.  Here she commissioned furniture, textiles, ironwork, pottery and lamps honouring ancient techniques and the work of traditional artisans and displaying them in a style all her own throughout, a total of 24 individual rooms plus five villas and pools.  Her eye for detail and love of colour are seen throughout the property while the nine-acre garden planted and designed by her ethnobotanist husband, Gary Martin is a true homage to the lushness and sensuousness of Marrakesh.

The chic mix of Berber blankets and European furnishings transforms the courtyard into an outdoor living room.

And it is this knowledge of the city, its environs and its occupants that makes Loum-Martin the best guide to INSIDE MARRAKESH.  Here we are taken behind the scenes at some of the grandest houses and riads owned and designed by such luminaries as Jasper Conran, Lynn Guinness and Vanessa Branson, given a peek at some the great gardens such as the Villa Majorelle, so beloved by Yves St Laurent, to the elegance of the Bulgari gardens and those of Villa Oasis.

Each villa is a feast, each garden path a revelation, each cooling fountain a place to refresh and each room an inspiration.  The riads may be grand, the owners iconic but under Loum-Martin’s guidance the objects, the ideas and the design are eminently inspirational.

Inside Marrakesh: Enchanting Homes and Gardens

By Meryanne Loum-Martin and Jean Cazals

Published by Rizzoli.

Hardback. £46, $60

Order your copy HERE

Timeless Stories Since 1931

Jaeger-LeCoultre, in association with luxury publisher Assouline, have launched the ultimate volume about one of the most iconic watches in modern history: the Reverso. Richly illustrated with archive images and original photography, the story of the Reverso comes to life thanks to the writing ability of author, historian, journalist and horological specialist Nicholas Foulkes.

Although the book is obviously mainly about the history of the Reverso, Foulkes’s narrative talent transforms it into the most evocative “biography” of the evolution of aesthetics and style in the 20th century. It starts with the 1925 Paris Exposition of Decorative Arts, which represented the rise of the design culture that would dominate the period between the two world wars, known to all of us as “Art Deco”. Art Deco was a celebration of all that the prewar world had repressed: travel, romance, exuberance, self-indulgence…

It was in this context that de Trey, a Swiss dentist-turned watch distributor, challenged by his friends to create a watch that could turn over to protect the fragile glass when playing polo, patented the name Reverso. This was 1930. One year later, thanks to Swiss watchmakers Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso came to market.

Reverso advert from 1979 evoking the elegance and romance of the 1920s, when Art Deco reigned supreme.

The Reverso was easily the most technically integrated watchcase yet to come to market; its design was dictated not by a desire to be different but by mechanical functionality. Its value lay not in the costliness of its materials and lavishness of its embellishments but in the ingenuity and intricacy of its engineering. Its choice of materials, its intentions, its innovative manufacture and the need it met made the Reverso in many ways the quintessential Art Deco product.

With its sleek form and unique reversible case, the Reverso has remained an eternal expression of modernity for 90 years, continually reinventing itself without compromising its spirit. Its blank metal flip side, which began as a purely functional solution, became a canvas for creative expression, decorated with enamel, engravings or gemstones, in order to adapt to all kinds of trends and fashions, be that the brutalism of the post-war era or the surge of quartz movements, which famously brought the whole Swiss watchmaking industry to the brink of extinction.

The Reverso One Duetto is adorned with baguette diamonds, front dial in mother-of-pearl and back in deep black adventurine.

With more than 50 calibres and several hundred dials, writing the history and evolution of this watch over nine decades and keeping the reader’s undivided attention doesn’t sound like an easy task but once again, Foulkes literally weaves his magic, bringing in the social milieu and cultural changes that provided the backdrop to the evolution of the Reverso, including the story of the founders, Jaeger and LeCoultre and how their inventions impacted the horological world since before the 20th century, when they were separate companies; and have continued to do so after joining forces, particularly after the Maison integrated its whole Manufacture under one roof, bringing together 180 different skills.

Giovanni Soldini’s radio message after rescuing fellow racer Isabelle in the middle of an around the world race… which he went on to win.

The book includes emotional stories from more than a dozen owners who have personalized their watches in deeply meaningful ways, adding sentiment and helping to bring to life this symbol of timeless modernity, conceived on the playing fields of the British Raj and in the ateliers of two watchmakers from the quiet valleys of Switzerland.

REVERSO by Nicholas Foulkes

Published by Assouline

Hardback in a luxury slipcase. €195

MKX

Order your copy HERE

Words: Julia Pasarón

Opening picture: Illustration from the ’30s of the Reverso function, highlighting its versatility

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

A graduate of Hertford College, Oxford, Nicholas Foulkes is an author, historian and journalist. A former editor for London’s Evening Standard, he is a contributing editor to Vanity Fair, Financial Times How to Spend It and The Rake; and luxury editor of British GQ. Best known for his trilogy of 19th century British histories, Last of the Dandies, Dancing into Battle, and Gentlemen and Blackguards, he has published around thirty books on history, the arts and style. Among his recent works are a biography of the painter Bernard Buffet, the official history of Patek Philippe (both by Random House); and Time Tamed, a history of mankind’s calibration of time from the Palaeolithic era to the moon landings (Simon & Schuster).

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Lockdown has certainly tested relationships to a degree that most of us would have never imagined. Luckily, it seems that it has had a positive effect on love. Most of the studies conducted about the subject conclude that more than half the couples feel that lockdown has brought them closer to their partner. So, with that good news, we should be looking at how to celebrate Lockdown St. Valentine’s.

In my books, there is no better way to start St Valentine’s celebrations than with a glass of champagne. For this occasion, I am choosing Veuve Clicquot Rosé. With its coppery colour and expressive aromas of wild strawberries, this full-bodied, structured champagne is defined by its length and character. Available from £47.50 at CLOS19, Harrods, Veuve-Clicquot and other high-quality retailers.

Like Coco Chanel, I only drink champagne on two occasions, when I am in love and when I am not.

As we haven’t really had the chance to spend much money in the last year, why not throw caution to the wind and go for some extravagant gifts. 2021 has been declared the “Year of Love” at Harry Winston, and celebrations commence in perfect tune with this romantic Midnight Valentine’s Dance white gold timepiece. Animated with a dynamic ensemble of dancing hearts and powered by the finest Swiss mechanical movement, this feminine limited-edition timepiece from the Midnight Collection encapsulates the message of passionate love for a lifetime.

Effortlessly elegant and truly pretty, this stunning timepiece by Harry Winston embodies the expression of love with superlative simplicity.

I can’t imagine a man who would not wish to wear on his wrist the striking RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-house Chronograph by Richard Mille. Poised at the intersection between Haute Horlogerie, dance and music, this is a watch that epitomises technology at the service of elegance. The new RM 72-01 keeps time, three beats to a measure, a rhythm emphasising three numbers: three, eight and eleven. Three beats for the three counters that immediately capture every eye. The transfers from minutes to hours have been isolated from the seconds wheel in this flyback chronograph which incorporates a double oscillating pinion mechanism developed and patented by Richard Mille. This model is available in four different combinations—5N red gold, titanium and black or white ceramic. It features an automatic winding movement, with a 50-hour power reserve.

The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-house Chronograph by Richard Mille represents a new space born of a play between spirit and sensation.

To continue this day of love and self-indulgence, what’s best than a luxurious dinner with the Love Caviar Hamper by Caviar House and Prunier? With three of their Yves Saint Laurent 50g tins of caviar, a whole pack of blinis, delicious crème Fraiche and a bottle of their in-house Rosé Brut Champagne, this gorgeous hamper will surely not disappoint even the most exquisite of palates.

Paraphrasing American writer Ludwig Bemelmans, “Caviar is to dining what diamond earrings are to a girl in an evening dress.”

Since going out is out of the question, why not get a little risqué with a game of Scrabble… with a twist. Aspinal of London has created a luxury edition as part of its brand’s range of traditional games. Exquisitely handmade with a leather hand-bound playing board atop a Jewel Italian calf leather tray in red which is felt-lined & provides stowage for the 100 Bridle Hide backed letters, four leather-bound letter racks, rules and letter drawstring bag. The tray is trimmed to the base with a non-slip Suedette making it perfect for the coffee table. If you are wondering what we mean with getting a little risqué think along the lines of strip-poker but with letters instead of cards. £1,195. Also available at Harrods.

A few different rules and this popular game can help you create a very seductive evening.

We couldn’t possibly end the evening without a drink of something robust and luxurious. The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. has collaborated with iconic jeweller Fabergé to release “The Emerald Isle Collection”, a seven-piece custom made whiskey set which celebrates the “Seven Wonders of Ireland”. Beautifully presented in a dark walnut experience box, each set features two bottles of ultra-rare, 30-year-old, triple distilled Irish whiskey, accompanied by two unique and exclusive creations from Fabergé: its first-ever Celtic Egg object and bespoke Altruist watch. Each collection also includes a humidor with two ultra-rare Cohiba Siglo VI Grand Reserva cigars, a gold-plated cigar cutter and water pipette, pure obsidian whiskey stones, a hip flask with a sample of the Emerald Isle whiskey (the rarest Irish whiskey in existence) and a carafe filled with Irish spring water from the same region where the whiskey was made.

This bespoke collection brings together the strong heritage of both brands in a series of seven highly collectable custom-made whiskey sets.

The inaugural launch of these limited-edition boxes will take place via a private auction in Houston, Texas tonight 2nd February 2021 – with 100% of all proceeds, beyond cost price, going to charity.

Opening picture- Rene Magritte, The Lovers (1928).

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