Lifestyle

A new beginning

With the opening of a boutique in the Piccadilly Arcade, Fabergé is starting a new chapter in its historic love affair with London, which dates back to 1906, when the first Fabergé boutique outside Russia opened in Dover Street. Four years later, it relocated to Bond Street. The store was patronised by royalty, nobility and the socialites of the day.  The Brits simply fell in love with the creations of the famed Russian jeweller.

Of the many celebrated names in the global history of high-end jewellery, that of Gustav Faberge, is perhaps one of the most revered. Born in 1814, Gustav trained as a goldsmith under Andreas Spiegel in St. Petersburg in the late 1820s, later joining Keibel – a rapidly growing firm that had begun receiving commissions from the Russian Imperial Court – before opening his own shop (and adding a chic acute accent to the last ‘e’ of his surname) in 1842.

Left: the new Fabergé store in London’s Picadilly Arcade. Right: the first Fabergé store in New Bond Street, 1910.

It was however Gustav’s son, Peter Carl, who, along with his…

Unapologetically me

Damian Hurley was born famous. Even though his mother, Elizabeth Hurley, put her career on hold to look after him, paparazzi would harass them on a daily basis. His teenage years were tainted with the death of important people in his life, the mark of which is palpable in his short film The Boy on […]

The world’s first zero-emissions villa

Located on the hills of Sotogrande, one of the most sought-after destinations in southern Europe among lovers of golf, polo and luxury life in general, Villa Noon is billed as the world’s first zero-emissions villa. Not only that, Villa Noon also generates its own water… from the sun. Viewed as a ground-breaking achievement in sustainable […]

By Tim Hayes, founder of Peach

We humans are clever; brilliant at finding ways to be unhealthy and even better at avoiding ways to change. We all know the usual suspects but, are we aware of how work travel could be causing a lot of damage to our health? Upgraded to business class – downgraded to flabby.

Let’s start with those trays of reheated processed food and those tiny bottles of booze served up mid-flight. Not exactly a balanced diet, is it? Poor nutrition, combined with a general increase in alcohol and the lack of exercise while travelling, mean frequent travellers present a higher risk of obesity. That frequent flyer fat can increase the risk of type 2 diabetes and heart disease. And we haven’t even mentioned hotel room service and the mini bar.

All that jumping between time zones can age us too. Scott Cohen, from the University of Surrey’s School of Hospitality and Tourism claims that flyer fatigue and jet leg disrupts gene expression that influences ageing, speeding up the process faster than Concorde, while weakening the immune system.

Cohen’s research also confirmed what we’ve all suspected for quite some time: breathing in the same re-circulated air for hours at a time, exposes business travellers to more airborne viruses and bacteria than your average person. When we add the general lethargy associated with running to and from office to airport lounges, our ability to fight off these germs is firmly back in economy class.

Before moving on to the good news, I am afraid I have a little more of the bad ones. Travelling is a lonely business. Days and weeks away from our families, friends and routine can also impact our mental wellbeing. Back to back meetings, stress and anxiety can often leave frequent flyers feeling isolated and depressed.

There are of course, lots of ways you can decrease the negative and ageing effect of the air miles racked up by your body. The easier ones to follow are:

Pack your gym kit
This may seem fairly obvious but a pair of trainers in your carry on will encourage you to keep in shape while away in business trips.

Workout in the morning
Plan your diary with 20 minutes allocated in the morning to go through a simple routine in your hotel room. You’ll feel energised, de-stressed and ready to take on those client meetings.

Laptops aren’t just for PowerPoints
If you are too busy to even think about a routine then get the hotel wifi code and search for quick workouts on Youtube. A set of abs is a great duty-free souvenir from any trip.

Find a hotel with a gym
Do your research and book accommodation that has a gym. If you can’t, then taking the stairs to your room instead of the lift is a good start.

Book a trainer
Peach is an app that connects busy people in London to elite personal trainers. Like the Uber of fitness, they’ll come to you at your hotel, gym, office, or meet you at a local park and train you according to your specific mood and level of fitness. When we have busy schedules it’s easy to quit. They key thing to remember is to stay moving. Even if it’s just a walk around the block, or getting the lift to the bottom of your hotel and walking back to the top; business people are natural problem solvers, so wherever you are, for however long, create your own gym and make a contract with yourself to keep mobile. You and your body are in it for the long haul.

Whether putting in a 9 to 5 at the office or working remotely, it is proven that people who exercise on work days are more productive, happier and suffer less stress. Researchers at the University of Bristol found that employees who enjoyed a workout before going to work, or got the lunges in on their lunch break, were better equipped to handle whatever the day threw at them.

That time to sweat out the stress is something employers should take more seriously according to the Centre for Economic and Business Research (CEBR). They reckon that, while the easily tracked scourge of absenteeism costs the UK economy around £18bn annually in lost productivity, it’s nastier, stealthier sister presenteeism could be even worse. Presenteeism, that is, employees staying late, working longer hours, often just to save face (you know the type) could negatively impact productivity somewhere from two to seven times as much as absenteeism, per person per year. Hanna Leahy, wellness business development manager at Sheffield Hallam University likens the issue to an iceberg: “Absenteeism sits at the top, where it’s fully visible and easily measurable. But there’s a huge hidden cost just below the surface that can’t be seen or quantified,” she claims.

However, while presenteeism might be hard to detect, it can also be alleviated – just like absenteeism – by improving employee wellness and health. More and more employers are taking steps, including offering mental health days on top of usual paid leave, offering corporate gym memberships and providing in-office yoga classes.

“All the underpinning science shows that productivity is related to health levels,” says Leahy, “by investing in employee health and wellbeing, employers will see a ROI in reduced absenteeism and presenteeism. The only question is to how to deliver the physical activities – as one size does not fit all and people’s needs and abilities are different.”

 

About Tim Hayes
Tim Hayes, founder of Peach, has run multiple successful personal training companies globally. He has extensive experience in coaching other trainers and, over the years, has worked with athletes, Royals, presidential families and a number of leading model agencies.
www.getpeach.com

 

 

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

From his humble beginnings at Barnardo’s, Bruce Oldfield rose through the ranks and left St. Martin’s School of Art to critical acclaim in 1973. He started his own label in 1975 and became one of the leading couture designers in the UK, dressing some of the most beautiful women in the world, from Princess Diana to Faye Dunaway, Queen Rania of Jordan and the Duchess of Cornwall among many others. With his charisma, charm and warm smile, it is easy to see why he is the favourite of so many outstanding women.

In our interview at his Beauchamp Place boutique, we started talking about his work for Barnardo’s, of which he is Vice President, a role in which he is very much involved. It was Barnardo’s support and the love of his wonderful foster mother that gave him the chance to become the man he is today.
Bruce went on to say that at present they need all the help they can get. “It’s a huge organisation. People think of Barnardo’s as just a children’s home, but Barnardo’s is so much more than that! It’s looking after and caring for children; and it’s all done through outreach and helping local authorities resolve problems. Barnardo’s nowadays are campaigners for a lot of issues that other people won’t touch. They were very lucky to have Diana as president and now we have HRH Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall as our patron. All my life the Queen has been patron of Barnardo’s and The Queen has handed that role over to the Duchess of Cornwall, who is a very hands-on patron and a very good client.”

Gold & Mercury Tote from Bruce Oldfield’s new collection

I asked Bruce if supporting Barnardo’s was his way of saying thank you and giving hope to kids who have had a difficult start in life. At the end of the day, he is living proof that they can get to the top. “You must be very proud”.
“Oh yes I am very proud of my involvement with Barnardo’s and the fact that they ask my advice on a lot of subjects, I also very much enjoy the fundraising I do with the Duchess. It is a very rewarding role.”
Moving onto the business side of things, I asked about his collection for John Lewis, which gave many women the opportunity to fulfil a life-long dream: to wear a garment designed by Bruce Oldfield. He answered candidly: “It is always nice to meet new clients from all walks of life, it’s good to talk and find out what women want. Obviously it’s a bit different from what we do here at Beauchamp Place. Here I can give my clients individual time to create a look that fits into their life style, the time in life they are at; I believe I used that knowledge in my collections for John Lewis. To me, every woman is important and should be made to feel beautiful.”

In general though, Bruce has always kept himself very exclusive. Many other fashion houses have become practically high street brands, but not his. I asked him if this had been an active decision or just the way the business developed. “To me”, I couldn’t help but adding, “small is beautiful.”
He laughed with that baritone tone of his and replied “Yes and no. I kept myself small because it costs so much to get bigger. Whenever I have expanded my business it has kind of gone pear-shaped and I have had to re-track and re-establish myself all over again. I believe in quality not quantity.”
I was curious about how Bruce has been diversifying his collections, so I asked him about past rumours I had heard about him going into interior design, even homeware design.
“I am very keen on that and always have been,” He answered wit yet another disarming smile, “I think I’ve had better coverage for my home and garden in recent years than for my clothes. To me it’s an obvious step on, or to the side if you prefer. I will always of course keep my couture -it is after all my core business, and one wouldn’t want to throw the baby out with the dish water.”

Bruce Oldfield’s couture silk georgette dress with hand stitched sequins

I added “So you won’t be doing up houses anytime soon, will you?” and Bruce chuckled. “No, I am not interested in doing up whole rooms, fretting about the colour of a pelmet; I want to be able to create one or two pieces that can enhance a room, or a wardrobe. Actually, last November I launched a collection of beautiful cushion throws, a small group of scarves and stoles, and handbags. Imagine, what do you do with a stole? If you get a big one, you can either wear it or throw it on your bed. I like the idea that it has a double life, a double purpose. I think accessories for a woman -both clothing and home accessories-, can really enhance your home and your wardrobe. It’s like wearing a fabulous cashmere scarf in a flattering colour that will brighten up your look.
For the leather pieces, I have been working with Venetian leather craftsmen, artisans who believe that craftsmanship, hand stitching each piece and thus, making them totally unique is the only way to work. I found them through a dear friend of mine; they keep to the old style of leather craftsmanship and preserve it to a very high standard. That is exactly my style: true craftmanship of the highest standard.”

Actually I was lucky enough to attend the launch of this wonderful new collection and was blown away. There are very few men that can create something so simple and yet so clever and beautiful.
The piece that caught my imagination most were the cross Gold/Mercury Knightsbridge tote. Here is a wonderful example of summer into winter, day into night, sunset into moonlight.
Bruce’s cashmere stoles made me long for my parents’ house in Perthshire, my black Labrador Daisy, and a roaring log fire. I could so see myself wrapped in such luxurious and soft material!
But between you and the siren in me, I am just longing to find that custom-made red crepe full-length wrap evening dress laid out on my bed with a matching cashmere throw for my birthday.

 

Founder of Full Circle Fund Therapies was founded with the goal to preserve the human spirit by providing a compassionate, professional, supportive care for people living through the turmoil that accompanies a life-threatening diagnosis and its medical treatment. Since its inception in 2000 they have helped over 7,000 people, most of which are battling cancer and genetic conditions such as Sickle Cell Disease.

Mostly based out of St George’s Hospital, London, the team consists of 11 highly trained individuals who provide a range of therapies including infant massage, reflexology, clinical massage therapies, relaxation training, reiki and hydrotherapy. Full Circle Fund Therapies are also currently developing a research arm to the charity which will be able to better ascertain where this type of therapy can be most effective.

Full Circle is based out of St George’s Hospital, London. Photo Credit © Paul Martin (2017).

Suzanne originally studied Business, Finance and Law before starting her own London based design company. Following a diagnosis of Lupus in 1996 she realised the benefit of complementary therapies in helping cope with her illness and its symptoms. In 2000, Suzanne Ruggles was asked by a senior haematology and bone marrow transplant nurse at St George’s Hospital to develop a supportive therapy service for leukaemia and transplant patients. In those days there was no support for haematology patients who were in isolation rooms for weeks and often months at a time coping with chemotherapy and its side-effects, radiation and bone marrow transplants.

Suzanne very quickly saw it was urgently needed to expand the service to include another patient group whose inherited pain condition is both life-threatening from birth and incurable. With the early support of haematology consultant Dr David Bevan and Professor of haematology Dr Ted Gordon-Smith, Suzanne developed one of the UK’s leading supportive therapy programmes. In 2003, whilst battling bacterial meningitis, Suzanne realized she wanted to do more for people facing the misery of extreme ill-health. After years of studying, In 2014 she achieved a Master of Science in Health Science from St. George’s Hospital Medical School-University of London

To meet the growing demand and as a stepping stone to being an independent charity Suzanne founded Full Circle Fund within the Hospital Charity before finally launching Full Circle Fund Therapies as an independent charity in 2015. Suzanne has high hopes for the future. The five-year plan includes – researching further the benefits of this holistic approach to medicine and establishing more complex services in other hospitals including highly clinical areas i.e. neurosurgery or paediatrics.

 

Suzanne Ruggles with some members of the Full Circle Team. Photo Credit: © Paul Martin (2017).

 

Q: Please Suzanne, tells us a bit more about how Full Circle works please.

A: We work to support the ‘whole person’ with a life-limiting illness not just the diagnosis, symptoms or side effects. We believe it is essential to preserve the human spirit and we achieve this in the most complex clinical areas through evidence-based therapies.

For very sick young children it is vital to help preserve the bond between child and parent during often very long, distressing and uncertain periods of hospitalization. Time is precious, and more important for these little ones is that their early experiences of life are not just a traumatic experience of pain [multiple operations, frightening, invasive treatments…] but that they and their parents can together find a sanctuary. We do this through Full Circle’s team of dedicated practitioners, supported by a team of nurses and consultants.

Full Circle is at the forefront of a movement to bring compassionate care to support life-limited individuals. We are a movement that includes consultants, professors, senior nurses and physiotherapists. Full Circle provides highly skilled practitioners to deliver a programme of safe, effective integrated medicine approaches based on studies to reduce anxiety and improve sleep amongst other important outcomes which we will begin researching in the coming year. Our award-winning hospital projects work in some of the most complex areas in the NHS such as intensive care, bone marrow transplantation and paediatric medicine. We work through referrals received from clinicians and nurses.

Q: How difficult was it to start Full Circle? Which were the main obstacles you faced?

Full Circle Staff. Photo Credit: © Paul Martin (2017)

A: the journey began almost 17 years ago; it was a pioneering project for the Haematology Department. We were initially supported by senior nurses and two world authority consultants (Professor of Haematology, Prof. Edward Gordon-Smith, and Dr David Bevan, world authority on sickle cell disorder). They understood the importance of supporting the whole person. Some other doctors in those early days were sceptical about our approach. Our adult patients were very sick, often for months at a time and for example those with blood cancers undergo months of chemotherapy and are totally confined to an isolation room for weeks at a time. Chemotherapy is very harsh physically on the individual. The side effects can be extremely debilitating – nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, pain, nerve damage…– . Sleep is often severely disrupted, which we believe is an area of great importance, is an unmet need and one which our interventions have been found to significantly improve.

Because of the support from Dr Bevan we were asked to support his patient group– those with Sickle Cell Disorder [SCD], a life long genetic illness which causes serious, life-threatening pain crises from childhood. My patients have called it a ‘life sentence’ of a disease. It impacts on every part of life as sufferers can spend many weeks and months in hospital each year. It cuts across childhood, school, and reaches into and cuts across adult life. Dr Bevan felt that there was an ethical reason to continue to try to find ways to help his patients cope with this life long illness. Our project for SCD was the first of its kind in the UK. One year later Dr Bevan nominated us for the highest award in the NHS – the Exceptional Award. We have just won vital funding from Wandsworth’s Grant Fund to reach children and teenagers with SCD to support them with strategies to cope with this illness through childhood.

Our project in paediatrics started in 2006. We were able to develop the service with valuable seed funding from Directline PLC and recruited a therapy-trained physio for a two-year project which included a pioneering project in evidence-based infant massage [based on the research of DrTiffany Field]. Our project won its second NHS Award – for Paediatrics, in 2016.

 

“We work to support the ‘whole person’ and not just the illness” Photo Credit: © Paul Martin (2017)

 

Q: What are the challenges for the future?

A: Funding! We are committed to not only pioneering our service into the complex areas of highest need, we also have a research aim, with a high-level research team made up of leading clinicians and researchers. Currently, we are talking to three other hospitals keen to have our services. We are at the tip of the iceberg of the need, both for patients and for the NHS. We are constrained only by funding in order to roll the Full Circle model to more hospitals. At St George’s, our home for the last 17 years, our ground breaking projects include

• blood and lymphatic cancer patients with chemotherapy-related nerve damage,

• cancer patients chemotherapy and bone marrow transplantation,

• Sickle Cell Disorder – from childhood through adolescence to adulthood [pilot funded by Wandsworth Grant Scheme],

• intensive care / cardiac intensive care / neuro intensive care,

• paediatric medicine:

• infants born prematurely following multiple operations and support for their families

• adolescents with Mental Health disorders, including life-limiting eating disorders [pilot funded for one year by Wimbledon Foundation]

• neurosurgery – children with brain tumours /paralysis, our input is on rehabilitative support following surgery.

 

Q: How can somebody ask for help from Full Circle? What conditions must they meet?

A: They would need to be cleared by their clinician and have the diagnosis of a life-limiting/ life-threatening condition. We need to have funding in place for each area and each hospital.

Q: If somebody wants to help/ get involved, what is the best way?

A: Through our website www.fullcirclefund.org.uk

 

 

Nowadays Valentine’s Day is seen as a time to lavish the object of our affection, whether we feel like it or not. Many will be aware of how Hallmark (yes, the card company) took full advantage of it and started producing Valentine’s cards in mass back in 1913, thus sealing the fate of this celebration to being kind of “love by command”.

The true origins of St. Valentine’s Day celebrations are not really known, but it is believed that it comes from the celebration, by the Romans of the feast of Lupercalia, which took place between the 13th and the 15th of February. This was a pagan celebration in which men sacrificed animals, whipped women (it was believed to be good for fertility) and indulged in a sexual matchmaking lottery, in which men drew the name of women from a jug and then be coupled to that woman for the duration of the festivities.

In the 3rd century A.D. the figure of St. Valentine came along. Two men by that name were executed by the Romans on February 14th under Emperor Claudius II. Their martyrdom was honoured by the Catholic Church with the celebration of St. Valentine’s day. To add confusion, the Normans celebrated Galatin’s day (Galatin means “lover of women”) around the same time. Finally in the 5th Century Pope Gelasius I confused things even further by rolling St. Valentine’s day and Lupercalia all into one to get rid of the pagan rituals.

Middle Ages and Renaissance authors like Chaucer and Shakespeare help romanticize the holiday through their work, and hand made paper-cards became popular in this day. Factory made cards were being made already in the 19th century, at the heart of the industrial revolution. If you like celebrating by entertaining and lavishing your beloved, we’ve put together some suggestions we hope will be of your liking. If you are more the kind that would rather celebrate as the Romans did… you may have to go to a different website.

Our first pick is a bespoke Poker Box by Alexandra Llewellyn. The edgy skull design is hand-drawn by Llewellyn and executed using traditional techniques of marquetry, with more than a thousand pieces of individually cut pieces of wood. The wood is a mixture of sycamore, walnut, oak, Masure birch and 4,000-year-old bog oak. The box measures 35cm x 35cm x 35cm and is edged in the elegant features of the male Lady Amherst pheasant. Limited edition of 15 boxes. £11,520

www.alexandralldesign.com

St Valentine Poker Box by Alexandra Llewellyn.

 

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is as captivating as the original Memovox Polaris from 1968. The dial architecture combines a mixture of finishings on three concentric circles: a Memovox Polaris-inspired center with a sunray finish, graining on the outer circle with the hours and minutes, and an opaline finish on the rotating inner bezel. The Jaeger-LeCoultre logo is applied, as are the classic Arabic numbers and the contemporary trapezoidal indexes. The hands are large and filled with Super-LumiNova™* for excellent visibility in low light. Historically black, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is offered in a black or ocean blue dial. £9,600

www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph watch.

 

If you want to get really serious, this spellbinding ring by Adler, called “satellite of love”, will certainly do the trick. Available in white and rose gold, the delicate ring is set with diamonds, above which hovers an exceptional pearl. This design is not only clever, but truly pure in its beauty. POA.

adler.ch

Adler Satellite of Love

Colourful, warm and full of sparkle, this Mosaic necklace designed by Jason Wu for Atelier Swarovski, plays with a kaleidoscope of Swarovski crystal cuts and colours to create a piece full of refined glamour and timeless elegance. £849

www.atelierswarovski.com

Jason Wu – Mosaic Neck Piece.

 

It is still pretty cold, so I can’t but recommend considering a cashmere scarf from Bruce Oldfield’s new capsule collection. Made of 100% luscious cashmere, they come in a range of flattering warm colours and look fabulous casually thrown over the back of a sofa or on your bed, or even better, simply wrap it around your shoulders and laugh at the bitter February weather. £585

www.bruceoldfield.com

Bruce Oldfield’s Scottish cashmere stoles.

 

The new Bamford Mayfair, with its pink dial and personalisation options is playful and fun. The dial itself is available in 12 options and with 18 different straps to choose from. The watch can be further personalised with an engraving on the back of the case. The case is 40mm matte black with a hi-tech matte ceramic bezel with embossed numbers and a Bamford dial. £425.

www.bamfordlondon.com

Bamford Mayfair Watch.

 

 

by Julia Pasarón

Every year, in the midst of the Swiss winter, the best and the biggest of the watch industry get together in Geneva for the Annual Exhibition of Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). In this, its 28th edition, SIHH welcomed six new exhibitors: Hermès and the Carré des Horlogers, Armin Strom, Chronometry Ferdinand Berthoud, DeWitt, elegant by FP Journe and Romain Gauthier, bringing the number of exhibitors to 35, including 18 historic houses and 17 marks of the Carré des Horlogers.

In recent years, the watch industry suffered a world wide collapse in sales, sending alarm waves throughout both, the titans in the market and independent brands alike. From family owned Parmigiani to giant Richemont, everybody was wondering how to recover from the hit that sales were taking from different factors: slow global economy, rising inflation in Europe, and a sharp decrease in sales to the Chinese and the Russians. However the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported a growth in exports in the period January-November 2017 of nearly 3% and for 2018 it is expected to reach 5%.

This year’s exhibitors at SIHH seem to have focused on innovations on one hand, and on the other, the reinvention of iconic models which, having been a resounding success in the past, are expected to perform equally well in their 21st-century form. It is always difficult to pick favourites, but from everything we saw, innovations, variations of classics, new concepts there were a few time pieces that really caught our attention. We present them to you here, and invite you to choose your favourite and email us with your choice at editor@i-m-magazine.com. One of you, watch lovers, will be invited to be our guest curator and select the watches that will be featured in our Spring-Summer issue. So without further ado, here are the contenders:

The Laureato 38 mm White Ceramic: the purest and most iconic watch by Girard-Perregaux with a twist. It features a bezel and crown in steel, sparkling with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds. Their respective sizes reflect each variation in the thickness of the octagonal bezel. The use of ceramics further accentuates the ergonomic qualities of the watch, and thanks to the use of ceramic, it is virtually scratchproof and hypoallergenic. A white rubber strap is also available. The bracelet, a natural extension of the case, distinguishes itself by its wide and entirely white ceramic satin-brushed H-shaped links as well as it’s domed and polished interlink elements. www.girard-perregaux.com

The Laureato 38 mm White Ceramic: the purest and most iconic watch by Girard-Perregaux with a twist.

The brand new 40mm Fiftysix day-date: part of the new Fiftysix collection presented by Vacheron Constantin at SIHH, this watch pays homage to the iconic reference 6073, from 1956, which was inspired by the Maltese cross. It feels contemporary and cosmopolitan, yet retro-chic. That must be because of the many elements that the new Fiftysix has taken from its 1950s predecessor: the box type sapphire crystal rising well above the bezel, the self-winding movement with a new oscillating weight featuring the Maltese cross emblem and the sector-type dial featuring two subtle tones on its surface which capture the light in a way that adds depth and personality to this elegant and masculine watch. This particular model comes equipped with a stop-seconds device, the latter powers the day of the week indication appearing at 9 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock and the power-reserve display at 6 o’clock. www.vacheron-constantin.com

The New FiftySix dial-a-date watch by Vacheron Constantin.

Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers: also by Vacheron Constantin. I never tire of the Metiers d’Arts collections. To me they represent the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin’s sense of aesthetics… speckled with a bit of madness. As the other Métiers d’Art collections, Les Aérostiers combine the finest artistic crafts with the most sophisticated horological techniques. Splendid hand-engraved and micro-sculpted gold hot-air balloons hover against a translucent plique-à-jour enamel background, while time is displayed to the beat of Manufacture Calibre 2460 G4/1. Each of the 5 watches in the collection depicts, on its dial, one of the 5 hot-air balloon flights undertaken in France between 1783 and 1785. The challenge for the master engravers at the Maison, was to add volume to the original two-dimensional drawings, and interpreting their colours through finishing effects. Each hot-air balloon called for up to three weeks of craftsmanship in order to reproduce the entire range of subtle feature and ornamental details of the original works. The dials thus compose authentic miniature scenes graced with an extraordinary variety of motifs. www.vacheron-constantin.com

The collections combine the finest artistic crafts with the most sophisticated horological techniques.

Kalparisma Nova Galaxy: Launched in 2008, the Kalparisma was Parmigiani’s first mechanical collection for women. In this, its 10th anniversary, the brand is celebrating with the Nova Galaxy, a very feminine watch with all the unusual attributes Parmigiani has accustomed us to. Firstly, the use of Aventurini glass in its dial (a glass discovered in Murano by accident in the 19th century), baptised “Galaxy” as a reminder of the sparkling constellations evoked by the material.

Likewise, the Nova Galaxy represents a star-scattered sky. The delta-shaped hands are skeletonised to better reveal the celestial display. The “Nova” star represents its small seconds at 6 o’clock, inspired by a pocket watch from the Sandoz collection that Michel Parmigiani restored in his workshop decades ago, on which reverse, a number of stars began to turn whenever the minute repeater was activated.

There are two models of this watch, differentiated by the case material and the stone-setting that adorns them. This one, in rose gold, matches the indices and Nova star. The sides of the case are set with 46 Top Wesselton diamonds for a total of ~0.84 carats. 50 pieces limited edition.
www.parmigiani.com

Kalparisma-Nova-galaxy – Front and Back

IWC Tribute Pallweber pocket watch “150 years”: This pocket watch with jumping numerals is part of the Jubilee collection, in celebration of the company’s 150th anniversary. Limited to 50 pieces, this is the first pocket watch from IWC with a digital hours and minutes display since the production of the historical Pallweber pocket watch which launched in 1884 and was discontinued in 1890. It shows the hours and minutes in digital format with large numerals on rotating discs and is housed in an 18-carat red gold case, decorated with elaborate guilloché work and worn on an 18-carat red gold chain. The pocket watch features a white dial with a lacquered finish and white display discs. Two windows in the spring cover reveal the hours and minutes, so the time can be read even when it is closed. The case also features a closed dust cover on the backside. The IWC-manufactured 94200 calibre advances the display discs by using a separate wheel train with a barrel of its own. The fact that the flow of power in the main wheel train operates independently guarantees precision and a 60-hour power reserve.
www.iwc.com

The Tribute Pallweber pocket watch.

The New Hermès Cape Cod: First born in 1991 from Henri d’Origny’s out-of-the-box mindset. He had been asked to imagine a square watch, but he preferred rectangular ones. Cutting the iconic “Anchor Chain” motif in two he actually managed to combine both shapes. A square embedded in a rectangle, the Cape Cod watch is magnified by its double tour strap that gives the watch an additional touch of originality and boldness.

In its 2018 re-launch, the Cape Cod comes in different versions. This particular one features a rhodium-plated dial, polished to create a mirror-like effect and coated with a precious translucent lacquer. It is available in two versions – Large Model and Small Model – with a single or double tour Milanese mesh bracelet. uk.hermes.com

The New Hermès Cape Cod watch
By Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Originally from New York, Koo Stark is a multi-faceted artist, having studied, taught and worked in the performing, literary, fine and applied arts. She is a writer, teacher, actress and most importantly, a photographer. She is also a lifelong practitioner and teacher of yoga, and a long-time student of HH the Dalai Lama, who gave her an insight into the spiritual and philosophical nature of Buddhism. It was this friendship and his teachings that gave Koo the insight to meditate on the potential of capturing the beauty of life through photography and using the medium as a means of non-verbal communication.

I met Koo Stark at San Lorenzo. She arrived looking radiant, what didn’t surprise me since it was the morning after the opening of her third photography exhibition in London in a year, after a gap of 23 years. Koo is a woman of style, grace and shy warmth. As an artist, her perception and use of light is unique and each of her photographs has a story to tell.

I started by asking her how she got into photography. She looked down for a moment and took a deep breath. “In the 80s”, she said, “I was constantly hounded by paparazzi; I had no privacy, no peace. I felt I was being stalked constantly.” I can imagine how she felt. At one stage, there was a price on her head for one photograph of her – solo and relaxed- for £250k. She turned down a written offer of £1million in 1983 to be interviewed. Koo went on the tell me that she even had paparazzi from Paris Match trying to climb into the window of her home to capture a photograph of her in the bath. She added: “It was terrifying. Each day, I did everything I could to try and conceal my face, maintain my silence and preserve my privacy, but the more I resisted the higher the price became. They even raided my doctor’s and lawyer’s premises to steal personal documents about me. I had nowhere to go and nowhere to hide. It was chequebook journalism at its worst. Some of my documented experiences were instrumental in changing laws on copyright and privacy. I still hold the dubious distinction of having received the highest libel award. This hounding was not only unbearable but also morally and legally wrong.”

HH the Dalai Lama. © Koo Stark.

One day, in 1982 this unwilling celebrity decided to turn the lens back on the paparazzi.  She described how it happened: “I just picked my old Polaroid camera and photographed them back.  It was a practical way to hide my face and it developed into an exploration, a form of homeopathic therapy and healing. By nature I am a very private, gentle person but these attacks were unbearable. So, in 1987, completely out of character, I went to court to protect myself and others´ right to privacy. It took many years and much convincing for the law on privacy to be created. In 2015, the Levenson enquiry eventually started to enforce privacy laws.” A glimpse of a smile illuminated these last words.

Koo has always seen photography as an art form as well as a craft. It was her dear friend, the wonderful Norman Parkinson, ‘Parks’ as she likes to call him, who taught her the fascinating craft of photography. “The greatest thing that Parks ever taught me was to understand light”, she commented, her expression full of meaning, “the camera is merely a recording tool, it’s your eye that needs training; it is your use of light that captures the moment.

“the camera is merely a recording tool, it’s your eye that needs training; it is your use of light that captures the moment”

Parks was a father figure to me and my mentor. He taught me to understand the importance of light. He said that a photograph was either like an assassin’s bullet or could put you on cloud nine. He impressed upon me the importance of studying old masters like Caravaggio, making me write essays to justify my choice of lighting, which remains daylight or tungsten, direct, indirect and reflected. Parks said that without studying the Masters I would never truly appreciate the subtle innuendo of light. He was very strict. On one occasion, while on a shoot for Condé Nast in his home in Tobago, he made me go and eat my lunch in the corner as I had forgotten to put film in the camera.”

Another profound influence on Koo´s work was Graham Green. Of this genius of the 20th-century literature she fondly recalled: “I had known him since I was seventeen, having worked with him as an actress. When I went to see him in the south of France at the height of my paparazzi harassment, he asked: ‘what is this I am reading about you in the press? This is not the Koo that I know.’ He was a tower of strength and was very concerned. He thought I should start a journal and brought me the most beautiful Smythson journal, a box of pencils, a dictaphone and a torch. He encouraged me to write down my everyday feelings and thoughts. He said one day I should turn these notes into a book or an autobiography.” Koo said that is the one thing she hasn’t ever done. When I asked her if she would ever write a book she answered: “My thoughts and my journals are very private to me. I wouldn´t just publish them. There is a different discipline required to write a coherent book, and if one day I felt confident enough in my skills to write my autobiography, I think it would be a great personal achievement, but first Nosce te ipsum (know thyself ).”

“My thoughts and my journals are very private to me. I wouldn´t just publish them. There is a different discipline required to write a coherent book, and if one day I felt confident enough in my skills to write my autobiography, I think it would be a great personal achievement, but first Nosce te ipsum (know thyself ).”

I asked her if she felt that women photographers have not always been fully recognised. She smiled and said: “If we look at the work of Helmut Newton for example, it was his wife Alice Springs who chose the models and styled them; and it was Lee Miller who accidentally discovered how to solarise prints, although annoyingly, it is Man Ray who remains credited for his muse´s discovery!” I mentioned the famous saying that behind every great man there is an even greater woman and she smiled again.

Simon and Yasmin Le Bon. © Koo Stark.

My next question moved our conversation onto the photographs in her current exhibition. I was very flattered that, as she went through each photograph, she asked me where I thought the light was coming from. I felt she wanted to impart and share her knowledge and it really opened my eyes, making me more able to recognise the beauty of her photography… and probably of art in general. Thank you Miss Stark. Her passion was evident as she spoke. She is a great believer in preserving the art of film photography in this digital age, where many moments are lost and never seen. The photograph that caught my imagination the most was the one of Simon and Yasmin Le Bon; it was true beauty – it reminded me of Romeo and Juliet.

When asked about what she would like to do next, she replied: “I hope to encourage, inspire and teach people to see photography as an art form, to start photographic collections of their own.”

 

Koo Stark
KINTSUGI PORTRAITS
GALLERIA SAN LORENZO
22, Beauchamp Place. London SW3 1NH
www.koostark.art
Until February 15th

 

Cover image Koo Stark by Terry O’Neil © 1987 Cover for Stark Contrast book published 1987.
A breath of fresh air. By Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

This stunning new jewellery company has filled a niche in the market that we never knew we needed until they burst on to the scene last summer with its modern, stylish and wearable jewellery. Coco & Kinney is the brain child of two very talented young women, Emma Mactaggart and Venetia Cohen. They first met working for a small online jewellery company and soon realised that they shared a common dream it was to make stunning chic and affordable jewellery …It’s been a success story ever since.

Emma had an early start into the world of fashion having been scouted at 15 at Paddington Station…like a little bear we know. She went on to model for Elite for 6 years, fronting campaigns for Abercrombie and Fitch, Trilogy and TopShop to name but a few. When I asked Emma why she gave up her very successful modelling career she answered without hesitation. She said she had to grow up very quickly and work with very challenging people. “I was grateful for my years working in the industry but it was never a job I loved. I am a creative person and missed using that”.

Coco & Kinney – Black Pearl and Gold earrings

Emma grew up in the Bahamas. It was her love of scuba diving and snorkelling that inspired her, particularly the way light reflected on the corals and the colours of the fish that she saw. “I suddenly realised that all this could be translated into my jewellery designs; the way light catches the stones and make them sparkle is beautiful. Many of mine and Venetia’s designs are based on coral and my memories of the sea.”

Emma went on to tell me that she had been designing and selling jewellery since she was 12 and still wears some of her original designs today! Venetia has a family background in jewellery. Her grandfather was a prominent collector of Georgian jewellery. He passed on his passion and knowledge of gemology to his daughter, and Venetia’s mother passed it on to her daughter. And thus, a wonderful journey began.

Coco & Kinney – Baby Blue Enamel earrings.

Venetia moved to Paris after getting a degree in English Literature. She was lucky enough to work for an amazing family whose mother was in Louis Vuitton. This confirmed her desire to be in retail and fashion. She explains that she just needed an outlet and a way to combine her passion for gems and fashion. Venetia explained that being surrounded by French fashion and their individual sense of style and chic helped her create Coco & Kinney’s al a monde style. It was after Venetia’s return to London that she met Emma and Coco & Kinney was born. I wanted to know more about how they chose their stones. Both Emma and Venetia are obsessed with colour. They feel that in this day and age there is far too much grey in the world, too much grunge and sadness. They want to create beautiful jewellery to reflect each woman’s personality, bring colour and beauty into every woman’s life. They believe that you can tell a lot about a woman by the jewellery she wears and it should bring happiness.

Coco and Kinney have designed a beautiful variety of pieces, from the very practical and low key to stunning, vibrant statement pieces that ooze glamour.

The stones are all sourced by Venetia and Emma on their many travels as far as India and Thailand; They go at least twice a year to find stones and to visit artisans that make the jewellery for them. These trips are indispensable not only to make sure that their stunning designs are up to date but also to support and nurture these small workshops. By supporting small communities in India and Thailand they are providing work and preserving these beautiful crafts which otherwise would be lost.

Coco & Kinney – The Hilary Silver Reef.

The wonderful thing about Coco & Kinney’s creations and what makes them so unique is the fact that many of the pieces are detachable, interchangeable or reversible making them perfect accessories for today’s busy and fashion conscience woman about town. With Emma and Venetia’s close friendship and individual talents they are able to keep constantly up to date their collection pushing the boundaries of tradition with fashion and style.

 

 

 

cocoandkinney.com

 

After being a record producer and music industry exec, running record labels for EMI and Disney and heading up iTunes Pan Europe, Martin Morales decided it was time to feed his soul and go back to his Peruvian roots. He began to cook as a chef, quit his job, sold his house and opened Ceviche in Soho. The success was immediate. In just 5 years Martin has opened a further 3 award-winning restaurants and published 2 best selling cookery books: Ceviche and Andina.

In this article, not only he tells us about his love for food, music, and the culture of his country but also about his endeavour to enrich British people’s lives with the excitement, depth and variety of South American cultures.

I was born in Lima and came to Britain with my family when I was 11 years old. The Shining Path guerrillas in Perú made it hell for many, so my father decided life wasn’t safe there and brought us to his native country. I think I must have been 8 years old when I started cooking, helping my great aunts with small chores in the kitchen and going with them to the market. It was these special moments that first gave me a buzz about food, ingredients and cooking. Music surrounded our lives in Lima; on the bus, at home… everywhere the radio played chichas, cumbia and all kinds of Latin music and at the weekend jam sessions were a regular occurrence at home, as everybody in my family played an instrument. So when I arrived in the UK, I missed all this terribly and so I began to seriously study, collect and listen to music, cook and collect recipes.

The restaurant Ceviche in Old Street London

At Leeds University, music and food gave me strength and served as therapy for the yearning I had for my home country. I even created an event at Uni called ‘Global kitchen’ where I cooked and DJ-ed at the same time. I played mostly world music and cooked dishes from around the world to show people in Britain that there was more to music than pop and rock, and more to food than fish and chips. An example of music I used to play at the time is La Chichera, by Los Demonios de Mantaro, which I have included in our album Andina. Oh! And Ruben Blades’ Juan Pachanga was a particular favourite at the time.

After Uni, I started to work for an independent label in Bath working with Latin and Cuban Music, particularly with musicians who were key members of the Buena Vista Social Club. At the same time I was writing a bit about music, cooking and DJ-ing all over the world. I did that for 18years! NY, Moscow, Morocco, Rio, Ibiza, Glastonbury… A key track I used to play was Nitin Sawhney’s Homelands (Joe Claussell Remix) and La Camita by Traffic Sounds (from our album Perú Bravo).

I then moved on to another independent label whose sole focus was producing compilations. I produced compilations of music by Celia Cruz, John Coltrane, Fela Kuti, Miriam Makeba and many more. Eventually I was headhunted by EMI to look after one of their labels. While there, I signed artists like KT Tunstall and Koop, and worked with Josh Stone. 3 years later I was headhunted by iTunes. Steve Job’s team contacted me saying they were starting a new platform called iTunes and so I joined a team of just 4 people to launch it from absolute zero. I was head of Pan EU and worked across 16 countries with our team.

After a few years Disney Music Group knocked on the door. The boss of Disney music, Bob Cavallo, ex-Manager of Prince and Alanis Morrisette, hired me to be Executive Director of Disney Music EMEA, where I helped launch Miley Cyrus, Selena Gomez, and Jonas Brothers. I started to look for artists in each country to represent Disney and sing in local languages and this way we launched projects like High School Musical and Hannah Montana.

After 18 years of working for music and arts projects for others, I felt I was ready to do what I truly loved and do it on my own. I love Perú, my culture, my roots, our food and our music. I couldn’t believe there was no great Peruvian restaurant in Britain. I always wanted to create a restaurant that respected tradition but was also highly creative and relevant to London. I wanted to show the true Perú of today, with all its colour and flavours and creativity, away from stereotypes.

Album: Andina, the sound of the Peruvian Andes

So with no funds but with tons of passion, I first ran a supper club at my house, starting in 2010, and then another and another until I ended up doing pop-ups of Peruvian food. They proved very successful so I began to build a team from scratch. I was clear that I didn’t want to be elitist, I want- ed my food to be inclusive, not exclusive: Something stylish and fun, delicious and attractive to be enjoyed by everybody. For that reason it had to be in Central London. We spent 2010-2011 looking for investment but it was impossible. I pitched to nearly 300 people. So we sold the house and with the little money we made and my wife’s support I went back to the 300 investors and some of them came forward, especially, ex-bosses from previous companies I‘d worked for, and together we brought the funds needed to start Ceviche. After searching for months for the right location, wearing down 3 pairs of shoes, I found the perfect pitch on Frith Street, right across from my favourite music venue in the world: Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club. That same year, one of our signature dishes, Don Ceviche, was named within the Top 10 best dishes of the year by The Sunday Times. This year Ceviche Soho has been voted the 9th best restaurant in London out of 17,000 other restaurants.

A year later I wrote Ceviche The Cookbook, which was an immediate success (translated into 13 languages and selling 120,000 copies) and we also launched our first music album, Perú Maravilloso, on our own Tiger’s Milk record label. We did it because customers kept asking us. You must listen to Lucho Neves and Mambo de Machaguay.

At the end of 2013 we opened Andina. My mum and grandmother are Andinas, ladies from the Andes. They inspired our restaurant in Shoreditch as well as the picanterias – family run restaurants in
the Andes of Perú, full of soulfood and incredible flavours and ingredients. Andina has become a local favourite with its unique take on brunches and cocktails, veggie and guilty pleasure dishes.

Award winning dish Don Ceviche @Paul Winch Furness

Andina The Cookbook has just been published. It features 100 recipes from the Andes as well as creations by our team headed by Executive Chef Vitelio Reyes and Executive Pastry Chef Ana Velasquez. In the book we tell the story of Andina cuisine, our restaurants, picanterias, and
is a homage to the women chefs of the Album: Andina, the sound of the Peruvian Andes Andes who carry our customs and culture. Together with the book we launched an accompanying compilation called Andina. One of my favourite tracks is Cesar Miro’s Todos Vuelven, performed by Los Walkers de Huanuco. I knew this song when I was a kid through Ruben Blades. It talks about going back home, about the melancholy of being away from your country, so it’s my favourite.

In 2015, we opened Ceviche Old St, which is housed in a 1898 stunning building by Sir Thomas Lipton, full of restaurant heritage. We restored it to its former glory and opened it with the idea of focusing on the cuisine of the three regions of Perú: Coast, Andes and Amazon. It also features Ceviche Old St Gallery, with works from over 50 of Perú’s top contemporary artists. Ceviche Old St won Best New Restaurant and Best Restaurant in the UK Awards at the Retailers Awards. It is a great place for great cuisine, fun, music and live events.

Finally, on Peruvian Independence day in 2016 (July 28th ), we opened Casita Andina in Soho, focused on the cuisine of Cusco and Ayacucho, and also with a focus on its beautiful textile culture. For two years running, it has been awarded an AA Rosette Award. All 4 restaurants are featured in the Michelin guide.

www.martinmorales.co.uk

www.cevicheuk.com

 

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Founder Simon Fairclough at the Persie Distillery.

Scotland is not just all about Harris Tweed, leaping salmon, haggis and Single Malt Whiskies anymore… Scotland has found a new gem in the form of artisan gin makers, and they don’t get any better than Persie Distillery, which is nestled at the foot of Glen Shee in Perthshire.

The first confirmed records related to the production of gin date from the early 17th century in Holland, where it was produced and sold by chemists as medicine; although it is claimed that a form of gin was first distilled in Italy, possibly as long ago as the Middle Ages.When William of Orange occupied the throne of England, gin became vastly popular as heavy taxes were imposed on imported spirits. This act rapidly increased the volume of British gin being distilled and helped William raise the money needed to indulge his passion for war.

In the winter of 1731, the annual frost fair was introduced. As soon as the Thames had frozen over, hundreds of small stalls would appear all along the river, many of which would be selling hot gin and ginger breads. You may have seen William Hogarth’s ‘Gin Lane’ cartoon depicting the evils of gin, where gin drinkers were portrayed as being chaotic and debauched. This helped lead to the Gin Act of 1751, which sought to control and restrict the rate of gin consumption.

But it really is best to forget the bad old days, where gin was euphemistically known as Mother’s Ruin, as it made a huge comeback when it virtually became the saviour of the British Empire in the reign of Queen Victoria. The expatriates and armed forces in India were struggling massively with outbreaks of malaria. It quickly became known that a treatment could be found in the bark of the Chinchona or ‘Fever’ tree. However, this bark was notoriously bitter so it was often mixed with lime and sugared ice together with a healthy slug of gin – the first manifestation of the famous ‘gin & tonic’ so loved around the world today.

When Daniel Craig took over the role of James Bond in Casino Royale in 2006, 007’s favoured tipple suddenly changed to the classic Vesper – a gin based cocktail described in the original novel by Ian Fleming. Gin was chic again. Fast forwarding to 2014, Simon Fairclough a gin enthusiast decided to set up a gin distillery business in the former Persie Hotel at Bridge of Cally. Simon experimented with a number of different gin flavours, before creating what is rapidly becoming a classic: Persie’s Sweet & Nutty Old Tom Gin. This wonderful gin is fabulous on the rocks or with ginger beer, which helps create Christmas in a glass all year round!

Having decided to create a new gin, the Persie Distillery was finally opened to great acclaim in August 2016, with an official launch party hosted by Scotland’s Deputy First Minister, John Swinney. Since then, the business has gone from strength to strength! All the water used in the distillation process is locally sourced, sparkling and pure. The surrounding countryside of beautiful rolling moors and mountain-rivers is a wonderful environment to enjoy watching the sun dapple and dart across the heather while sipping a heavenly Persie Gin. Simon started his career almost 35 years ago working with iconic whisky brands such as Johnnie Walker, Cardhu, Talisker and Jura. Obviously, it would have been very easy for him to have followed the Scotch route but Simon had other ideas. As he said when I interviewed him: “I wanted to try and create something new and distinctly different. Most of all, I wanted to avoid being held back by the old tradition and process of Scottish whisky production. I really had a burning desire to try out new ideas and to establish a brand that was uniquely personal to me and the heritage of Persie at Auchenflower.”

Simon clearly has drive and determination in abundance, but it was the combination of his refined palate and amazing nose
for aromas that has made the Persie experience what it is today. The process of creating the right smell, taste and experi- ence is a crucial and fundamental part of the Persie process and all who are involved are passionately committed to the cause of creating better gins.
In order to hone in on the best flavours, Simon and his wife Chrissie, first set up
Gin Club Scotland, which is the world’s first touring gin club. Over the following months and years Simon and Chrissie were able to test over a hundred different gins and tap into the tap into the feedback and reviews of 4,000 dedicated gin drinkers in order to properly ascertain what the discerning gin drinker might be missing.

Gin Club Scotland also allowed Simon
and Chrissie to travel all over the UK to establish a diverse range of views on gin formulas, all the while taking the opportunity to team up with other artisan distillers and independent pubs, restaurants and hotel owners. The mission…. To create the perfect gin! To be sure of success every detail of the Persie Gin process had to be exactly right. So, to start with, getting the ideal Still in place was absolutely vital. After months of research Simon finally plumped for a handcrafted and very beautiful German made Copper Still. Not only is it stunning to look at, but it has
also helped make Persie Gin so distinctive, while creating a very special experience for visitors to the Persie Distillery.

All three Persie Gins in the current line-up are handmade in small batch quantities and are subject to the most stringent quality controls. The ingredients are all hand selected using a range of carefully chosen Botanicals and then blended with love to create three very special gins with unique and distinctive characteristics. Persie’s Zesty Citrus Gin offers an explosion of locally hand-zested Lime and Blood Orange, with subtle notes of Pine, ensuring the freshest and zingiest of fla- vour combinations – so good in fact that it won the Scottish Field Gin Challenge for Best Gin under £35 and was a finalist in the Scottish Gin Awards. Meanwhile, winner of the Silver Outstanding for best Gin & Tonic at the International Wine and Spiritis competition, Persie’s Herby & Aromatic Gin with its beautifully fragrant scent of garden herbs, full of bay, rosemary and basil can whisk you off to Tuscany in an instant!
Finally, my personal favourite is the
Persie Sweet & Nutty Old Tom, winner
of the Silver Award for Speciality Gin at the Scottish Gin Awards, with its vanilla, butterscotch and almond flavours, which for some reason always reminds me of log fires, lazy Labradors and Christmas!

 

 

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