Louie London

French cuisine with a New Orleans twist in the heart of Covent Garden

Located in a historic 19th-century townhouse, Louie has what could be described as an unassuming presence from the outside, only its emblematic alligator flag lifts the grey exterior. Inside, the restaurant is an elegant and luxurious space that, on the first two floors, feels more like Paris than London. The menu offers a carefully curated blend of French cuisine with New Orleans soul.

The impressive seafood bar serves a playful selection of dishes, each anchored by premium products and packed with joie de vivre. The creative talent behind the gastronomic offer is that of Head Chef Geanina Rugina, who has worked with the likes of the Gordon Ramsay Group and D&D London.

Many of my favourites were available to choose from (black truffle pappardelle, chilled lobster served with a lemon citrus dressing) as well as experiments in Franco-American food. Making my choices took some thought, but as an Australian with a love of seafood, I knew what I wanted. I got slightly over-excited by the idea of having the Lobster Roll as a starter, and was politely advised by the brilliant Assistant Restaurant Manager, Stefano Di Paolo, that sharing would be wise… Share? Begrudgingly, I acquiesced.

From the left, Lobster Roll and Heritage Beetroot Salad with Goat Cheese Mousse.

The lobster, dill, mayo and expertly-filled brioche bun duly arrived, and my “half” melted in the mouth – gorgeous and on point. Stefano was right: the portions are generous. I finished it, but was mindful that my companion and I had also agreed on sharing (there’s that word again) a Heritage Beetroot Salad with Goat Cheese Mousse, one of a selection of salads that aren’t “overdone”. Expertly arranged on the plate, it included salt-baked beetroot, tomme de chambrouze, and candied walnuts.

One of Louie’s sommeliers, Alex Morelle, was on hand to make wine-pairing suggestions throughout the evening. First up, we drank a 2022 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Croqloups, Domaine Chauveau – light, refreshing, and perfect with the lobster. Next, no more sharing! I opted for the King Scallops and my companion, the New York Strip Steak. The scallops were served with a cuttlefish-ink risotto and sea herbs; they were delicious, the best scallops that I’ve had in a long time. The portion size was just right and the presentation, like everything else, was supreme. My companion hardly spoke as he devoured his beef, muttering about the experience being “a real treat” and “why haven’t I discovered this restaurant sooner”. He chose French fries as a side and the peppercorn sauce with his steak – which is also available with a herb dressing and a red wine jus, if that takes your fancy. We drank 2020 Luigi Maffini Kleos Aglianico, which worked well with both mains.

From the left, King Scallops with cuttlefish-ink risotto and sea herbs; and New York Strip Steak with peppercorn sauce.

Dessert was a tough decision. The Head Pastry Chef, Michael D’Angeloa, had whipped up a fine selection of sweet treats that covers all tastes and whatever stomach space you have left. We’re talking Tarte Tatin Traditionnelle with vanilla ice cream; pear and chocolate tart; southern-spiced pecan pie… We went for a sharing plate (again!), due to minimum space in said stomachs and chose the Red Berries Pavlova.

“A mountainous pile of pavlova came complete with raspberry and blackberry compote, cream, and raspberry sorbet. It was sublime.”

                – Linda Hunting

We drank in the sweet dessert notes of a 2022 Franz Haas Schweizer Moscato Rosa with our dessert. There was also a formidable cheese selection, as one would expect in a French-styled restaurant, and of course, we managed to squeeze in a glass or two of NV Charles Heidsieck, Brut Réserve.

The food, the ambience, the staff were all top-notch. Louie is not to be missed, it’s a gem of a place and I can’t wait to experience the Alligator Bar upstairs, with its live music.  

Author: Linda Hunting

LOUIE LONDON
13-15 West Street, London WC2H 9NE
Tel: +44 (0) 208 0576 500
Reservations HERE.

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