Despite the classical Greek ideal of perfect symmetry, the human eye often finds imbalance utterly attractive. From Ryan Gosling’s slightly uneven features to the sail-like silhouette of the Sydney Opera House, science confirms we are indeed drawn to asymmetry. Horology is no exception. Asymmetric watches have captivated collector and enthusiasts alike since the earliest days of the wristwatch.
The journey began in the 20th century with Louis Cartier’s Cloche de Cartier, introduced in 1920 as a diamond and onyx brooch. This was followed by a wristwatch version in 1921. Named after the French word for ‘bell’, its distinctive silhouette is matched by a 90-degree rotated dial – XII sits where you’d expect 3 o’clock. Its off-kilter layout makes more sense when one remembers its brooch origins.
After a long hiatus, the Cloche resurfaced in limited editions in 1995 and 2007. It was revived again in 2021 as part of the Cartier Privé collection. This latest iteration came in both skeletonised and classic versions, crafted in pink, yellow and platinum gold.
From the left: Cartier Cloche mid 1920s; skeletonised Cartier Tank Asymétrique, 2020; Crash de Cartier Limited Edition, 1991, © Wristcheck.com
A quieter exercise in asymmetry came in 1936 with the Cartier Parallélogramme, later renamed the Tank Asymétrique. Its slanted, diamond-shaped case was rotated to help drivers read the time more easily while behind the wheel. Reissued over the decades in various metals and finishes, it remains a favourite among collectors. The most recent version was released in 2020 under the Privé banner.
Another bold icon is the Hamilton Ventura, launched in 1957 with a striking triangular case that mirrored the era’s obsession with futuristic design. It was endorsed by Elvis Presley, who famously wore it in Blue Hawaii (1961). The Ventura also found fame on the wrists of intergalactic agents in Men in Black. Most recently, it featured in Dune: Part Two, worn by the people of planet Arrakis. While that model was custom-made for the film, Hamilton distilled its spirit into two limited editions: the XXL Bright Dune and Edge Dune. Each bears luminous blue detailing inspired by the Fremen’s eyes.
Original Hamilton Ventura, 1957 (left), and Hamilton Edge Dune, 2024.
Asymmetry thrived in the mid-century modern period, when avant-garde jeweller Gilbert Albert brought his radical sensibilities to Patek Philippe. Given free rein by then-president Henri Stern, Albert created triangular masterpieces like the Ricochet pocket watch and references 3412, 3422 and 3424. His daring designs won him the Diamonds International Award three years running.
Nearly 60 years later, Hublot tapped into that same disruptive energy through a collaboration with artist Daniel Arsham. The result, the Hublot Arsham Droplet, is a tactile, pebble-like pocket watch presented in an artful display box—more sculpture than timepiece.
The Hublot Arsham Droplet symbolises the harmony between water, the artistic human mind, and the passage of time.
Cartier took another path in 1967 with the release of the now-iconic Crash. A warped version of the Baignoire Allongée (nothing to do with Dalí, sorry), the Crash captured the spirit of the 1960s counterculture. Initially rejected by Stewart Granger, it has since been embraced by connoisseurs and celebrities alike, from Kanye West to Jay-Z. They have had a fundamental role in how the prices of the Crash have rocketed in recent years.
Even brutalism found expression in horology. Audemars Piguet’s Model 5159 from 1961 is a prime example. Its angular case and austere dial echo the architecture of the time. Its modern-day descendant, the [Re]Master02, remains almost identical. This is a testament to the enduring power of its design.
Patek Ricochet wristwatch ref. 788 from 1964; Rolex Cellini King Midas, first introduced in 1962; Audemars Piguet Model 5159, launched in 1961.
Rolex also dabbled in brutalist aesthetics with the King Midas series, made in extremely limited numbers. Introduced in 1964, the Cellini King Midas stood out with a solid gold, wedge-like case. Unsurprisingly, Elvis was among its admirers.
At Piaget, designer Jean-Claude Gueit brought bold lines and geometric flair to the 21st Century collection of 1969. One standout is the Piaget Manchette from 1970—a yellow-gold cuff watch with lapis lazuli detailing. Fast forward to Watches and Wonders 2025, and Piaget continues to explore asymmetry with the Sixties collection. These 29mm watches feature subtly irregular bezels with the Maison’s signature ridges, offering four unique satin-brushed finishes.
Left: new 2025 Piaget Sixtie. Right: Vacheron Constantin 1972 Boîte 46 Diamants (2001).
In 1972, to mark its Diplôme du Prestige de la France, Vacheron Constantin launched the aptly named ‘1972’ model. It had a curved trapezoid case based on the golden ratio – a timeless expression of asymmetry. Few were made, making original models highly collectable. A white gold version from 2013 with an ultra-thin movement and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève marked the latest evolution.
Among modern brands, Richard Mille stands out for asymmetric design driven by purpose. Several of its models address athletes’ ergonomic needs: the RM 70-01 for cyclist Alain Prost, the RM 59-01 for sprinter Yohan Blake, and the RM 38-02 for golfer Bubba Watson. All feature tailored case shapes to suit motion and comfort.
From the left: Richard Mille RM 70-01; Urwerk UR-120, 2022; and Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Asymétrique.
Urwerk has gone even further. Since its founding in 1997, the brand has made a name for wild, spaceship-like designs. The UR-110 stunned collectors with its turbine-powered automatic system and satellite hour display. The more refined UR-120 – nicknamed ‘Spock’ – continued that legacy. Its satellites split apart mid-rotation in a gesture reminiscent of the Vulcan salute.
Another duo pushing boundaries is Greubel Forsey. Their Double Tourbillon Asymétrique, like many of their creations, uses its lopsided case to accommodate increasingly complex tourbillon movements. It’s asymmetry as an enabler of horological excellence.
Lesser-known names are also contributing to this offbeat tradition. The Berneron Mirage, Anoma A1, Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20G (a real gem), Toledano & Chan’s B/1, and newcomer SpaceOne all demonstrate that innovation often lies outside the mainstream.
As history shows, symmetry may soothe, but asymmetry intrigues. In watchmaking, it continues to inspire designers and captivate collectors alike – proof that true beauty lies in the unexpected.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Lead image: Piaget Manchette from the 1970s.
Find a much more detailed history of asymmetric watches in the 2025 edition of I-M TIME. Available from 13th June at our online boutique, and from the 16th at independent retailers and selected WHSmith Travel stores.
If you like the vintage vibe, you may enjoy our luxury watches feature about stone dial watches.
Show Comments +