Buzzy, vibrant and with a bit of a 1950s retro vibe, Harry’s Victoria has changed the restaurant landscape around the eponymous London station, bringing a much needed touch of classic Italian glam.
At Harry’s Victoria you can choose to dine at its al fresco terrace, a private dining room for up to 15 people or, as we did, in the lively main dining room. Lots of wood, lots of leather and modernist art all over the world. At the far end, one of the largest and better stocked bars I’ve seen in a restaurant in a very long time. I suppose it couldn’t be any other way. At the end of the day, that’s how Harry’s started, as Harry’s Bar in Venice. Back in 1931, American multimillionaire Harry Pickering – who was a bit of a bar fly – had borrowed 10,000 lire from bartender Giuseppe Cipriani a couple of year earlier after his parents had cut him off to curve his bad habits (it didn’t work by the way). To show his appreciation, Pickering gave Cipriani back 50,000 lire, “Enough to open a bar. We will call it Harry’s Bar” he said at the time.
Harry’s Victoria’s bar would have delighted the man after whom it was originally named, American multimillionaire Harry Pickering.
Nearly a century later, Harry’s has restaurants all over the world, the latest being the one that opened in Victoria, London, just a few weeks ago. The place is bustling with activity. Waiters constantly on the move delivering plate after plate of deliciously smelling food that evoke lazy lunches by the sea in Forte dei Marmi and romantic dinners in Venice.
The menu is full of classic Italian dishes infused with a contemporary flair. From the eight choices of antipasti, we picked something contemporary – Crudo di Tonno – and something more classic, Gamberi e ‘Nduja – sweet oven-baked prawns in a creamy spicy ‘nduja sauce with datterini tomato, basil and Amalfi lemon. The Crudo di Tonno was a revelation. So simple and at the same time, so clever. Fresh, flavoursome and rich in textures; the perfect starter.
The portions are generous so for mains, we just shared a Frutti di Mare, a seafood platter of lobster tail, squid, prawns, clams and mussels cooked in a white wine sauce with artichokes. The dish comes with grilled focaccia to scoop up the delicious sauce – forget your manners, it is worth it.
Crudo di Tonno, thinly-sliced yellowfin tuna with pickled fennel, Amalfi lemon, dill and avocado mousse; and Frutti di Mare, an indulgent assortment of seafood cooked in a divine white wine sauce.
Another dish that caught my attention was the Sole and Vongole, a whole lemon sole served on the bone, cooked with white wine sauce and served with clams, samphire, parsley and of course, Amalfi lemon. I saw it on the table next to us and made a mental note to order it in my next visit. The same should be said of the contorni, ‘Nduja Maccheroni Cheese Gratin. Never four words sounded more delicious together.
A friend of mine who went the following week after hearing my praises, tried the pizza and told me it was remarkably good. The secret apparently is to use different Italian flours for the dough and let it prove slowly for 72 hours.
For dessert, it could only be one for me: the legendary Harry’s Toadstool with white chocolate, fresh raspberries, mascarpone mousse, iced vanilla parfait and pistachio biscotti crunch, served with warm pistachio sauce. My companion went for the Tiramisú and told me it was heaven.
Feel hungry? You can book your table HERE.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Harry’s Victoria
52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU
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