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Minimalistic Excess

The aesthetic of the 1990s, revamped

The early 1990s was the era of cool girl minimalism. Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow were the poster girls of this pared-back style, living by the mantra “Less is more”. Fashion was stripped of its 1980s excess and reduced to a colour palette spanning from black to white but with more texture in the fabric and subtle sensuality in the silhouettes. Calvin Klein, Zoran, Prada, Donna Karan and Jil Sander were the fashion names on everyone’s lips, renowned for the clean simplicity of their looks.

There was, however, some irony in the way fashion embraced clothes devoid of colour, yet when it came to jewellery, the trend was anything but minimal. The shiniest, chunkiest gold jewels were piled onto Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford and all the other supermodels parading the catwalks from Chanel to Versace. It is that mood of minimalism meeting excess that is repeating in fashion today and in our spring fashion shoot.

DIOR JOAILLERIE Dioramour necklace in yellow gold and diamond; Rose des Vents bracelet in yellow gold, diamonds and mother of pearl.
DIOR long crepe silk chiffon dress; heeled pump in black calfskin; high-waisted panties in knitted technical fabric.

Left: PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus Ladies Automatic 35.2mm in rose gold, bezel set with 56 diamonds.
CHANEL Fine Jewellery Coco Crush Hoop earrings and rings in beige gold and diamonds.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI satin waistcoat, vintage cashmere beret.

Right: TASAKI Fountain pendant and earrings in white gold with black South Sea pearl, garnet, citrine, tourmaline and black spinel.
ELIZABETH GAGE Vine Leaf Tapered Templar ring in yellow and white gold; Zodiac Agincourt band ring in yellow gold; Capricorn Tapered Templar ring in yellow gold with a brilliant-cut diamond; Double Row Roller Seal ring in yellow gold.
AUDEMARS PIGUET 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding in yellow gold.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI linen and cotton white suit with cropped waistcoat.

Left: FOPE Gold Flex’it earrings, chokers, bracelets and rings in yellow- and white-gold.
BOSS cropped blazer jacket in responsible wool with button trim made from virgin wool and slim fit skirt.

Right: BINA GOENKA X GEMFIELDS earring with Mozambican rubies and Zambian emeralds, set in gold.
JOSEPH Foundations ivory double face cashmere Cenda long coat.

LOUIS VUITTON Fine Jewellery Colour Blossom earrings with diamonds set in yellow and white gold, bracelet and rings with diamonds and onyx set in yellow gold (from the same collection).
LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Automatic 40mm watch in yellow gold.
LOUIS VUITTON V-neck tulle knit and cotton sweater; wide leg cashmere shorts and leather Bermuda shorts.
LOUIS VUITTON Amiral flat half boots.

Opening Image: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN shirt dress with knotted neckline in white compact cotton poplin; black leather belt; and black leather Punk ankle-buckled sandals.


Fashion & Jewellery Director/Production: Marcella Martinelli @marcellastylist
Photographer: Matthew Shave @matthewshave
Words: Francesca Fearon
Digital Assistant: Irene Cano  Light Assistant: Alicia Colarusso   Postproduction: Mark Arnold
Hair & make up: Ruth Warrior @ruthwarriormakeup @raybrownpro; Sisley skincare, Charlotte Tilbury and L’Oréal Pro Tech Art
Manicurist: Joanna Newbold @joannanewboldnail @premierhairandmake up, using Artistic Nail Design, from Louella Belle
Model: Natasha Luwedde @natashaluwedde @selectmodellondon  

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