The artistry will be glittering at the second edition of the Dance Reflections by Van Cleef & Arpels Festival, which runs in London from 12th March to 8th April at the Royal Ballet and Opera, Sadler’s Wells, South Bank Centre and Tate Modern.
Following on from the hugely successful inaugural event in 2022, this iteration of the festival created in partnership with the world-famous French luxury jewellery company features 15 dazzling shows from a whole gamut of different cultures.
Taking place at iconic venues in our capital city, Dance Reflections showcases artists who, in the words of Catherine Renier, President & CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, have specialised in, “Collaborations with prestigious partners, contributions to major choreographic events, support for emerging and touring artists… These various commitments, in keeping with the values of creation, transmission and education dear to the Maison, all meet the same objective of celebrating contemporary choreographic art.”
Including repertory works, dance workshops, artist forums and awareness-raising initiatives, all emphasising the connections between dance heritage and modern choreography, the festival highlights imaginative ways in which dancers have evolved exciting new…
A tribute to the work of one of the fundamental figures of French Modernist painting
After three years in the making, the Amar Gallery is bringing to London Hélène de Beauvoir: The Woman Destroyed, a unique exhibition featuring paintings and works on paper from the 1950s to 1980s by this French artist, crucial to the feminist movement. Often overshadowed in the past by her older sister, Simone – the groundbreaking […]
Despite being separated in time by nearly 200 years, Sigmar Polke felt a deep admiration for Francisco de Goya. The show at Museo del Prado, Sigmar Polke. Affinities Revealed, explores how the Spanish master influenced the work of the German painter, after he saw for the first time Goya’s Time and the Old Women in […]
#futuregen by Dr Jane Davidson. Published by Chelsea Green Publishing. Hardback, £14.99
This book is being published as finally, the world feels ready to come out of the lockdown imposed to control the spread of Covid-19, a pandemic that has unfortunately taken many lives, but has also given us the opportunity, as the author Jane Davidson puts it, “To capitalize on our rediscovered kindness and sense of society, to celebrate the importance of nature, to build on our increased virtual engagement to act on that other silent killer –climate change- for the benefit of current and future generations.”
Former member of the National Assembly for Wales, Jane Davidson, proposed the Well-being of Future Generations Act during her time in government, the first legislation in the world to enshrine the rights of future generations alongside current ones. The UN Assistant Secretary-General, Nikhil Seth, commented about this initiative: “What Wales is doing today, the world will do tomorrow.”
In♯futuregen, Davidson explores whether the concept of a legal “golden thread” of intergenerational fairness can reframe the system. Her fundamental proposition is that in a country that passes a law to protect the interests of future generations, the law in itself will drive different behaviours, both in how decisions are made and in what decisions are made.
Despite having been one of the first industrialised countries based on coal, iron and steel industries, Wales has been the first nation in the Western world to have a duty to promote sustainable development explicitly stated in its found constitution (1998). In delivering such a promise, every decision challenges the traditional way of operating and prioritises finding strategies to promote economic and social advancement in ways that avoid environmental degradation, overexploitation or pollution. Key strategies within the act include supporting local public space, a zero-waste policy, the regeneration of Swansea for well-being and wildlife, supporting agricultural communities and connecting environmental and social justice into a sustainable society.
The Well-being of Future Generations Act places sustainability at the heart of Government and requires long-term, collaborative systemic solutions to complex issues including poverty, health, ecology, environment and meaningful employment in the interests of current and future generations.
Other countries are following suit. Already in the UK, Lord John Bird and Carolina Lucas are leading a Future Generation Act through Parliament and governments in New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Canada and Gibraltar are looking at the Welsh experiment with interest.
Good news at last! One of our favourite riverside restaurateurs has come up with an ingenious plan to keep us sane and entertained. While we wait with anticipation for Sam and his incredible team to reopen their doors, we have Quiz night. Personally I can’t wait.
Drawing on his impressive address book and a few favours, restaurateur Sam Harrison, of Sam’s Riverside in Hammersmith, west London, has devised plans to launch two online Celebrity Quiz Nights, on 16 and 29 June. The initiative will be fun with a focus on supporting the restaurant’s own lifeline to reopen in July, and also raising money for the Charlie Waller Memorial HostTrust (www.cwmt.org).
Live on Zoom webinar, and kicking off both nights at 7pm, participants will pay £25 per household, with bookings made via the Sam’s Riverside website (www.samsriverside.co.uk) and EventBrite from Monday, 8 June. Sam has also assembled an impressive list of prizes for several lucky participants, including a Summer Wine Selection from Ellis Wines, a Mega Food Hamper from HG Walter Butchers and Oui Chef Fruit & Vegetables, Riverside Studios Cinema Vouchers, and also a meal for four people at Sam’s Riverside.
The quiz players will see all the celebrity hosts as they pose their round of questions, and will be able to immediately post their answers to each question on a special interactive scoring system.
The line-ups for the two quiz nights are below:
Tuesday, 16 June Iain Morris (Co-Creator of The Inbetweeners) is hosting Anthony McPartlin & Declan Donnelly (TV Hosts) – TV Round Joe Thomas (Actor) – General Knowledge Round Andy Nyman (Actor) – Theatre Round William Sitwell (Saturday Telegraph Magazine Restaurant Critic) – Food & Drink Round Iain Morris & Sam Harrison – West London Facts Round
Monday, 29 June David Tennant (Actor) is hosting Connor Swindells (Actor) – TV Round Suranne Jones (Actor) – General Knowledge Round Alistair Petrie (Actor) – Theatre Round Tom Parker Bowles (Mail on Sunday Restaurant Critic) – Food & Drink Round Adam James (Actor) – West London Facts Round
For further information, check the website – www.samsriverside.co.uk Sam’s Riverside – Crisp Walk, Hammersmith, London W6 9DN Instagram/Twitter – @samsriversidew6
(Opening photo: An extract from “Two Amazonian Horned Frogs”, 1884, watercolour, Stephen Ongpin Fine Art)
Between the 3rd and 10th of July, the public will be able to attend London Art Week using an innovative online platform. This (Two Amazonian Horned Frogs) image, taken from a series of environmentally inspired works called Drawn to Nature: Flora and Fauna from the 16th Century to the Present, will be one of many available to view online, allowing visitors to enjoy the cultural event – albeit virtually. Stephen Ongpin Fine Art is one of 50 confirmed participants to present the finest paintings, drawings and sculptures from the last 5,000 years.
Under normal circumstances, galleries in Mayfair would be eagerly preparing for an occasion that has brought together museums, auction houses and art-enthusiasts since its launch in 2013. This year Covid-19 has forced the event to go digital. Stephen Ongpin, chairman of the event, stated that in spite of the challenges posed by Covid-19, it has provided an opportunity to explore alternative ways to unite the community, “We feel London Art Week Digital will offer a platform to dealers around the world to join forces and offer their best works to a varied audience of international collectors and curators.”
Dealers will exhibit up to 25 works per gallery side-by-side in curated viewing rooms, each accompanied by a detailed description. Visitors can discover similar works or watch videos describing the works for sale in more depth using a ‘discover more’ button and will be able to search for artists or art disciplines. The News & Features page of the website will host podcasts, videos and editorial features as well as live events and contributions from dealers, curators and auction house specialists.
As Covid-19 has ignited a new wave of digital hobbies, London Art Week serves as a fantastic opportunity to curb isolation boredom and get stuck into the art world from the comfort of your own living room. It boasts an unprecedented collection of several eras of art meaning there will definitely be something to fulfil your culture cravings.
Gustave Flaubert’s masterpiece Madame Bovary is The Folio Society’s stunning new limited edition of 750 books, each signed by the introducer, the translator and the artist. Illustrated with sensual oil paintings by Nushka and beautifully bound in Douppion silk, this exquisite edition mirrors the perfection of the Flaubert’s writing.
The story follows Emma, a rural doctor’s wife, who yearns to escape the banality of her life. A masterpiece in realism, the novel, subtitled Provincial Morals, was controversial when it was first serialised in 1856, and lead to Flaubert standing trial for obscenity. More than 150 years on, Madame Bovary’s depiction of desire, disaffection and love is as poignant now as it was then.
Originally painted in oils, Nushka’s subtle, seductive compositions are infused with a blend of American and European influences. Nushka staged the scenes she chose to paint for this edition using live models, props and costumes. The result is artwork that is both intimate and evocative, very much in line with this young artist’s style, celebrated for her honest explorations of the female body and her dynamic painterly style .
The translation selected for this edition is by Adam Thorpe, an author whose translations of Flaubert’s Madame Bovary and Zola’s Thérèse Raquin have received critical acclaim. In this book, he only uses syntax, vocabulary and expressions that were in general use up until the 1850s, when Madame Bovary was first published. This approach immerses readers in the ambiance of 19th century France.
In a new introduction specially commissioned by Folio from Norwegian novelist Karl Ove Knausgard, he explains not only why Madame Bovary is the perfect novel, but also why “the novelist of today continues to write in Flaubert’s shadow.” Henry James’s 1904 piece On First Reading Madame Bovary is also included, completing this unique edition.
Madame Bovary by Gustave Flaubert Published by The Folio Society. Limited edition hardback in slipcase, £245
Art can take many forms and is delivered in many different settings — particularly when it’s free to view and accessible to all. Unfortunately, except for Banksy and a few more, street artists don’t get the recognition they deserve. As we are slowly coming out of the lockdown imposed by Governments to control the spread of Covid-19, we thought it would be interesting to take a look at some of the best street art in the world and share it with you.
Puerto Rico: San Juan
Right in the heart of the Condado area in Puerto Rico, lies the colourful neighbourhood of San Juan. Fortaleza Street is decorated with a beautiful canopy of umbrellas, which has become a major attraction in the streets of the town. As well as being a visual spectacle for passers-by, they also shelter the public from the sun and the rain.
Source: Shutterstock, by Polina LVT.
Other cities have joined in on brightening up their streets with coloured umbrellas of different shapes and sizes like golf umbrellas, including Barcelona’s Fiesta Major de Gracia, Portgual’s Umbrella Sky Project, Dubai’s Miracle Garden, Turkey’s Old Street, and the UK’s own Vinopolis Piazza near London Bridge. If you’re visiting any of these locations in the future, make sure to check them out!
Germany: Berlin
The historic Berlin Wall was once used as a barrier that divided and oppressed the people of Soviet controlled Germany. Now, it is used as a symbol of freedom through artistic and creative independence. The Berlin Wall has been graced with several iconic murals, such as Thierry Noir’s colourful cartoon heads, for something totally unique and original.
Source: Shutterstock, by Maridav.
Remembering what the wall once stood for and seeing what it represents now is certainly worth a visit.
Turkey: Istanbul
Going back to 2013, a retired forestry engineer started his street art project by transforming a huge staircase from an eye-sore to a bright and colourful rainbow, injecting life into an unvisited, insignificant part of town. Not everyone was a fan and, in response, the government painted over it with a dull grey colour.
Source: Shutterstock, by blackboard1965.
This caused terrible anger in the public, who saw the government’s action as a lack of respect and of attempt to control artistic freedom of expression. This sparked the rainbow revolution! To represent unity, members of the public repainted the stairs with rainbow colours, as well as other staircases and walkways in the city.
Italy: Naples
The city of Naples has an abundance of stunning street art across the city, with detailed murals and portraits that you could swear were alive. Jorit Agoch is one of the most significant street artists in the city raising this destination’s profile as a cultural hotspot.
Source: Unsplash, by Maria Bobrova.
Il Merola Park of Ponticelli, the Park of Murals, has four great portraits — check out the range of art and attractions to have a look at.
To conclude, I’ve realised that there is amazing street art all around the world and that once I can travel freely again, I’ll definitely seek it as a way to better understand the culture of the places I visit.
Founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet, the company remains a family business today that has not been sold at any point in history, a very rare case in today’s watch world. In 2014, the Swiss manufacturer asked the architectural firms Bjarke Ingels Group and CCHE to design an expansion to their historical premises.
The result was a contemporary spiral-shaped glass pavilion to complement the company’s oldest building, blending tradition and forward thinking, offering a pristine setting for the horological creations that have made Audemars Piguet one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world. The curved glazing entirely supports the steel roof, while a brass mesh runs along the external surface to regulate light and temperature. The green roof further helps regulate temperature, while absorbing water. Inside, the curved glass walls converge clockwise towards the spiral’s centre, before moving in the opposite direction: visitors travel through the building as they would through the spring of a timepiece.
More than 300 watches are on display at the museum, including feats of complication, miniaturisation and unconventional designs. These watches tell the story of how modest 19th century artisans from an isolated valley at the heart of the Swiss Jura produced creations that caught the eye of metropolitan clients far beyond their borders and today, continue to captivate watch enthusiasts across the world.
The Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet offers a unique perspective of the Vallée de Joux and of the history of watchmaking, a project made possible thanks to the creativity and collaboration of a host of experts, including architects, engineers and local artisans. Traditional workshops, where some of the manufacture’s most complicated timepieces are still perfected today, have been included in the museum’s spatial experience to bring visitors in close contact with Audemars Piguet’s craftspeople.
“We wanted visitors to experience our heritage, savoir-faire, cultural origins and openness to the world in a building that would reflect both our rootedness and forward-thinking spirit. But, before all, we wanted to pay tribute to the watchmakers and craftspeople who have made what Audemars Piguet is today, generation after generation.”
Jasmine Audemars , Audemars Piguet’s Chairwoman of the Board of Directors to offer visitors a truly diverse experience, museum designer Atelier Brückner imagined the composition of the exhibition as a musical score. Interludes, including sculptures, automata, kinetic installations and mock-ups of intricate mechnical movements, give life to various aspects of horological technique and design. Visitors are also invited to try their hand at some of the ancestral techniques perpetuated by Audemars Piguet, such as satin brushing and circular graining. The visit culminates at the centre of the spiral with the display of Grandes Complications, where each watch composed of more than 648 components spends six to eight months in the hands of a single watchmaker before leaving the workshop.
The second specialized workshop at the heart of the spiral hosts the Métiers d’Art, where Haute Joaillerie creations are conceived and crafted by highly skilled jewellers, gem-setters and engravers. The astronomical, chiming and chronograph complications that have been at the core of Audemars Piguet since its establishment are orbiting around the ultra-complicated Universelle pocket watch from 1899. Inspired by the solar system, the spherical showcases of this section evoke the astronomical cycles of time at the heart of watchmaking.
The watch exhibition ends on a rich collection of Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept.
The Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet also houses the Audemars Piguet Foundation, which has contributed to forest conservation through environmental protection and youth awareness- raising programmes since 1992. Preserving forests, educating children to the environment, restoring biodiversity and valuing traditional knowledge are the Foundation’s top priorities. Its approach aims to initiate, through the projects funded, a virtuous circle of sustainable development, by and with local communities.
The Board of the Audemars Piguet Foundation is chaired by Mrs. Jasmine Audemars, Audemars Piguet’s Chairwoman of the Board of Directors. Since 2012, Audemars Piguet has fostered a creative dialogue between contemporary art and Haute Horlogerie by commissioning artists to explore its geographic and cultural origins as well as themes including complexity and precision. For the opening of its Musée Atelier, they will exhibit commissioned artworks by friends of the brand Dan Holdsworth, Quayola and Alexandre Joly, which offer a creative interpretations of Audemars Piguet’s origins in the Vallée de Joux.
In general, I think it is safe to say that the most general view of the nature of mankind is not a very positive one. Most people think humans are bad. This is not just in the times we live. From Machiavelli to Hobbes, Freud to Pinker, the assumption is that we are terrible by definition. The whole of economics is premised on the Hobbesian notion of human nature, which sees us as rational, self-serving individuals.
However, not all thinkers and philosophers agree. Rousseau is a well known example, a firm believer in the innate goodness of humans, as it is the author of this book, Rutger Bregman. In Humankind, he makes the case for the argument that assumes that people are good, supported by a myriad of well researched examples in many scientific disciplines, from anthropology to sociology, that go back as far as cave times and move on through history up to the results of experiments conducted during the 20th and 21st century. In short, all these evidence seems to indicate that the evolution of our species is based on the survival of the friendliest, rather than the fittest, who Bregman calls Homo puppy, meaning that we can’t be all that bad after all.
As the placebo effect makes us feel good without real reason, its opposite, known as the nocebo effect, will cause a more negative effect conditions by negative expectations. In the same way, we could say that our general grim view of humanity is also a nocebo, often encouraged by the news, which tend to highlight the most dramatic and negative events, making us think that these are the most common. News have become a kind of drug to which most of us are addicted. As the Swiss novelist Rolf Dobelli put it,
“News is to the mind what sugar is to the body.”
Bregman is of the opinion that believing in human kindness and altruism is actually a more realistic way to think – and the foundation for achieving true change in our society. He is no fool though, he realises that humans are capable of terrible things and recognises that our genetic inclination to tribalism can have disturbing consequences, starting with the distrust of strangers and going all the way to genocide. However he argues that for people to get to those horrendous extremes, they have to be pushed and conditioned pretty heavily. Historical records and scientific experiments mostly indicated that humans feel an innate aversion to violence.
Every time there is a disaster of some kind, we see the best in people shining through. Following this line of thought, Bregman makes the acute observation that “the tragedy of war is that it’s the best facets of human nature –loyalty, comradery, solidarity- that inspire Homo puppy to take up arms.
The rise of Enlightenment brought the power of rational thought over everything else and Adam Smith, the author of the economic Bible “The Wealth of Nations” established the principles of the free market upon the rational principles of Enlightenment, which considered human nature as driven by selfishness. This view has ruled the way we go about governing countries and how we organise our economies until the present day, or has it? Bregman points out that increasingly, we are seeing a new kind of realism pushing through, one that expects the best from us and believes in the power of intrinsic motivation. Rather than relying on a system of reward (capitalism) or punishment (communism) to motivate people, here comes a revolutionary thought: trust people to do their best and give them the autonomy to do it. If you treat people as if they are responsible and reliable, they will be.
If you are thinking that all this sounds a bit naïve and/or pro-anarchism, maybe you are right; maybe a bit of anarchism and positive vibes is what we need to shake things up and get society and the economy moving in the right direction once and for all. In any case, I wholeheartedly recommend you to read Humankind: it is fresh, it is relevant and it is hopeful.
Humankind by Rutger Bregman
Bloomsbury Publishing Publishing in hardback on May 19th 2020, £20.00 Also available in audiobook (£20.00) and ebook (£16.80)
As someone who considers himself an avid student of film, frequently I come into agreement with fellow movie enthusiasts that older, classic films are always better than more recent ones. Many concur that the new school over saturate their work with special effects, therefore neglecting stronger written screenplays. In these days of lockdown, I have had the opportunity to indulge in exploring cinematographic jewels that I hadn’t had the chance to watch before, many of which support the above notion.
The Duellists is a prime example and, without any doubt, it is among my top five movies. Released in 1977, it was the debut of one of the best film directors of all times: Ridley Scott; and won him the Best Debut Film Award at the Cannes Film Festival. Base on Joseph Conrad’s short story, The Duel, and framed on the backdrop of the French revolutionary wars of the 1800s, the story follows a trivial quarrel between two Napoleon soldiers which escalates to a life-long personal war. The two protagonists are Gabriel Feraud -played by Harvey Keitel, an actor of whom I am a big fan and Keith Carradine on the role of, Armand d’Hubert.
This is a movie that uses beauty to set the mood and often, also to complete the scene. The opening is a duel of swords between Feraud and another man that we later come to find out is the nephew of the Mayor. The Mayor is also a close associate of Napoleon himself. We never find out the reason for this initial battle, but Feraud wins after striking the nephew in his side, not with a fatal blow, but one that draws blood and bring his adversary to the floor.
News of the nephew’s defeat and injury reach the Mayor, who isn’t best pleased. He reaches out to a colleague, a general, who seeks out Feraud for discipline. This general gets to the quarters, where a group of soldiers are relaxed, enjoying some leisure time. Angrily, he demands to know the whereabouts of a Gabriel Feraud, explaining to the whole room what Feraud has done and to whom it has been done. Clearly this is a big inconvenience for the general; his whole manner visibly irritated during the scene.
This is the first time we see Armand d’Hubert. In a room full of roughly 15 men, he is the only man to respond to the commanding officer, letting him know that this was the quarters of Feraud, but presently he is absent. d’Hubert is now saddled with the task of finding Feraud and informing him that he is to return back to quarters and be confined there under close arrest, pending reviewal of the situation.
The Duellists – 1977 British Quad Poster.
d’Hubert manages to find Feraud and gives him the message. Here is where the drama starts, because d’Hubert finds him in the ballroom of a palatial mansion, in the middle of a party and interrupts him while he is comfortably engaged in the company of the owner of the house, Madame de Lionne. This is the only reason that I can think of as to why, from this point on, Feraud shows an unquenchable desire to fight, kill if you will, Armand d’Hubert. No other motive makes itself apparent to me throughout the rest of the film and it is never made clear by the director. The two men are of equal rank (lieutenants), so surely Feraud must know that d’Hubert coming to see him was through orders from above. Regardless, the beef starts here.
My favourite scene follows, with the two men hurrying to Feraud’s quarters to discuss the matter further. As both men live within the barracks, I can only assume this is the house of a girlfriend/concubine to Feraud’s. The elegance of the camera work by Frank Tidy creates an eerily tableau that engages the senses of the viewer.
Feraud starts this dialogue: “Your duty is to victimise me. Am I mistaken? You have chosen to hunt me out in the drawing room of a lady for whom I feel the deepest…” d’Hubert cuts him off, maintaining his poise, softly spoken and calm natured: “Sir, I respect your inexpressible sentiment. Now I can assure you that this was no choice of mine.” Feraud interrupts, now seething with rage, “you have insulted me” he states, staring dead in the face of a man who stares back, but with a look of complete confusion, bewilderment, as if to say “how are you so vexed at me for simply passing on a message?” Feraud repeats his declaration, this time at the top of his voice, his temper unmanageable at this point, “you have insulted me!” d’Hubert, ever the gentleman tries to disarm with reason and manners, “I have strained my patience not to insult you” all to no avail. Feraud demands an apology, d’Hubert refuses to give one, so begins their first duel. Feraud hurries out to the front yard, sword in hand, and snatches up an old man who is laid up in the corner on recline, so he can play referee. Surprisingly, despite his anger and insistence on this fight, Feraud, loses, not by sustaining a major injury, but by being floored and somewhat distressed; it takes his mistress jumping on the back of d’Hubert to prevent a more serious injury.
In the next scene, we see d’Hubert visit a friend of his, the army doctor, in order to remedy his minor injuries from the duel. As they chat, d’Hubert reveals with whom he is entagled in a feud and the doctor is pleasantly amused, as he was the one that had to fix up Feraud after his combat with the mayor’s nephew. He goes on to confess that he has had to mend Feraud a number of times, as he is infamous for instigating duels to satisfy his temperamental honour.
The movie goes on and Feraud steadily goads d’Hubert into battle a few more times over a 15 year timespan. Sometimes Feraud is the victor, sometime d’Hubert. As the war progresses, career wise both men have esteemed themselves through their service to Napoleon’s campaign and both have been elevated to the status of general. Still, any chance he gets, Feraud provokes and demands more duels. It seems he won’t stop until one of them either dies or produces a hand written and stamped apology for everyone to see, by now, their rivalry has become the talk of the town. All the while, poor d’Hubert just wants to focus on his career, and retire into family life without any of that drama.
Let me fast forward to their final battle. After years of campaigning in brutal conditions, Napoleon has been defeated, and new beings have come into power. d’Hubert is in a quasi semi-retirement state, living in his sister’s estate and through his sister’s meddling, married to a local young lady. He now has a permanent limp, probably caused by frostbite suffered while serving out in Russia. One day, as he walks his dogs through their greenery, two men approach and ask where they could find General Armand d’Hubert. When they realise they are in fact in front of him, they let it be known they have been sent by a General Feraud, who demands yet another duel. d’Hubert is mystified, and for the first time he spills out some anger: “I could have you both carted back to where you came from in irons. I swear to God I could whisper, only whisper and you’d both be dead in a ditch before morning. This is my home!” The main speaker of the two replies “we had proceeded on the assumption that you were a gentlemen…” I can fully understand d’Hubert’s frustration. I forgot to mention that there is a point in the middle of the film, when Napoleon has lost control in France, and Feraud is due to be executed for making comments in blind allegiance to Napoleon, that had offended the new rulers of the country. Upon hearing this, for some reason d’Hubert makes an appeal on his behalf and as he had made friends in the right places, manages to get the execution dropped down to a mere banishment.
Back to the final duel, all parties involved have agreed that pistols will be drawn for this duel, two bullets in each gun. The next day, battle commences on the same green in which Feraud’s two messengers propositioned d’Hubert the day before. After much dancing around the fields, Feraud misses both attempts at d’Hubert and is now caught in an extremely compromising position: on his back on the grass, with d’Hubert standing over him, one bullet left in the chamber of his pistol. With supreme resentment, Feraud screams at d’Hubert to finish off the job and spare him the embarrassment. d’Hubert, I repeat, ever the gentleman, finally manages to conclude this torment: “you have kept me at your beck and call for 15 years. I shall never again do what you demand of me. By every rule of single combat, from this moment on, your life belongs to me, is that not correct? I shall simply declare you dead. In all of your dealings with me, you will do me the courtesy to conduct yourself as a dead man. I have submitted to your notions of honour long enough. You will now submit to mine.”
The very last scene shows Feraud standing on a hill, overlooking a lake. Zooming into his face you see nothing but disgrace and spiritual and mental unease.
Despite being the undoubted antagonist in the situation, Harvey Keitel portrays Feraud excellently. His relentless pursuit of d’Hubert and passion for battle constantly amused and entertained me throughout, even though it isn’t for any particularly rational reason. Another captivating factor with this picture, is how well captured the feel of the 1800s is by a film produced in the 1970s. Such attention to detail. While writing this piece, through my research, I came to realise the Duellists was Ridley Scott’s debut movie. I’m amazed by how well put together the film is, that being said, after such a debut it doesn’t surprise me how successful and illustrious a career this director has gone on to have, being responsible for masterpieces such as Alien, Blade Runner, Thelma & Louise, Gladiator, Hannibal, and American Gangster to mention just a few.
The Duellists proves that you don’t need overwhelming special effects or rotund soundtracks to make a good film and that most definitely, older movies are the best!
The Duellists is available to watch on Sky cinema and on Netflix.
How far is it from battlefield to catwalk? Not very far when you look at the trench coat, a classic that in the century since it trod through the mud of Flanders remains, in essence, unchanged on the catwalks of Burberry, Hermès and Bottega Veneta today, but for a few tweaks here and there. Originally designed as a military garment, the architecture of the coat remains the same, but how much protection these catwalk versions would afford in a storm is debatable. One can only imagine what Lord Kitchener, who helped popularise the trench coat in the Great War, would make of the silk scarf versions on the Burberry catwalk today or any of its other recent incarnations.
Burberry produced it one season in silk-chiffon and succeeded in making it waterproof, nevertheless the trench coat has become somewhat divorced from its original function. Initially called the Tielocken, it is one of clothing’s perma-trends: a tough weatherproof utilitarian garment invented at the time of the Boer War, before being upgraded for the trenches of Northern France. This waterproof has become an enduring item, adapted and updated with the generations to emerge the icon that it is today.
Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s creative director from 2001 to 2018, summed up its qualities a few years ago, “The trench is a very modern way of dressing as it goes over everything in whatever weather.” It’s more than a coat he said, “it’s a piece of engineering. There are so many aspects to it: it’s functional yet it is fashionable, and the details, from the belt and buckles to the stole flaps and D-rings, are all so carefully designed. It is clothing with real integrity and purpose.”
His successor Riccardo Tisci has found the coat similarly enticing having featured 20 trenches in his debut collection and many more since. He recalled in a recent interview how in France a Chanel bag may be given by parents to reward good behaviour at school, whereas in England it is the Burberry trench.
It is something I discovered here,” he says, “Adele told me the first thing she bought when her first single came out was a Burberry trench.
Between them, Bailey and Tisci have elevated the trench coat to a fashion statement reproducing it in silk, chiffon, satin, tweed bouclé and more. We see it today in checks on the catwalk of Prada, in suede at Hermès, leather at Bottega Veneta where new designer of the year, Daniel Lee, presented three relaxed versions for spring, and in nude pink by Alexa Chung for Barbour. Classic brands like Aquascutum, Daks and Mackintosh produce new versions each season, because the trench is a superb trans-seasonal coat that pretty much works all year round. It solves so many sartorial problems being uniform-smart without being too formal; classy because of its heritage but also democratic.
As Bailey once said: “I’ve always been intrigued by mixing historical sartorial design with harder-edged modernity, by the play between aristocratic and street style.” Elizabeth Murray, a fashion curator at the Victoria & Albert museum believes part of the trench coat’s success is down to its versatility: “Designers can reinterpret the trench coat season after season, its utilitarian design making it both timeless and unmistakably modern,” she says. The V&A collection has a number of different examples of trench coats, including a classic beige gabardine coat from c. 1972, a lilac lace Burberry design by Christopher Bailey for S/S 2014 and a black trench coat by Swedish company Filippa K, made entirely out of recycled plastic bottles. “These examples highlight the versatility of the trench coat, and the range of ways designers reinterpret and adapt the design.”
Aquascutum’s heritage like that of Burberry is very tightly stitched to that of the trench coat, as both brands have laid claim to designing the original. In the early 1850s, the Regent Street tailor and entrepreneur John Emary patented a waterproof wool which he called “Watershield”. Its Latin translation Aquascutum was the name by which the company became known. They made coats using this material which that worn by soldiers in the Crimean War.
Burberry Spring-Summer 2020 collection for men.
Meanwhile in 1860, a draper in Basingstoke called Thomas Burberry developed a closely woven cotton gabardine that proved durable and weather-proof without using any waterproofing. Officers started wearing these weather-proof coats in the Boer War. By 1914 the military-style epaulettes and D-rings for the attachment of military equipment had been added and many soldiers serving in the trenches were issued with it; that’s how the coat earned its name. Whether it was first designed by Aquascutum or Burberry is difficult to confirm, however, the coat proved very popular amongst the ranks suffering the horrors of trench warfare.
The design received its first celebrity endorsement from Captain Sir John Alcock who was the first airman to fly across the Atlantic: “Although in continual mist, rain or sleet, and the altitude varying from 200 to 11,000 feet causing great variations of temperature, I kept as dry, warm and comfortable as possible under such conditions,” he wrote to Burberry.
The coat was subsequently adopted by Hollywood stars in film noir movies becoming a uniform for Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (dressed in Aquascutum trench-coat) and many of the Raymond Chandler films. Lauren Bacall simmered in beige trench in Key Largo (Aquascutum) as did Catherine Deneuve in The Umbrellas of Cherbourg (Burberry). Sofia Loren, Robert Mitchum, Sir Michael Caine all wore Aquascutum trench-coats on screen. Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street, Meryl Streep in Kramer Vs Kramer are amongst those who wore Burberry ones. Lauren Hutton wore a trench coat in the 1980s film American Gigolo and glamorously reprised that look on the catwalk with Gigi Hadid to close the Bottega Veneta show in 2017.
Gigi Hadid and Lauren Hutton at the Bottega Veneta Spring-Summer 2017 show.
However, it is unconfirmed who designed the original for the movie – perhaps Giorgio Armani who designed much of the film’s wardrobe. The Queen also looks unfailingly smart in a trench-coat whether unveiling a plaque on a rainy day or out hacking on horseback in Windsor Great Park. While it remains popular in the corporate world and is the coat of choice for gumshoes and movie stars, its modern-day following amongst the fashion-savvy is the result of clever marketing by Burberry, whose campaigns shot by Mario Testino injected some much-needed zest and energy into the garment.
Models like Kate Moss, Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Cara Delevigne, and young actors like Eddie Redmayne made the trench-coat sexy amongst the young generation.
Burberry and Aquascutum still have their classics, such as the updated Heritage collection re-introduced by Burberry in 2014 which neighbourhood names like Westminster, Kensington and Chelsea defining different styles of single and double-breasted styles.
While Aquascutum has a cropped double-breasted style called the Trafalgar and the fly-front Newman design. Fashion icon, wardrobe statement, the trench coat is one of the smartest fashion investments anyone can make.
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