Culture

V&A Dundee digs into the inspirational power of gardens

Derek Jarman made some beautiful artistic films, including Caravaggio, The Tempest and Orlando. Many people, however, believe that his greatest artistic achievement was the exquisite garden he created at his home, Prospect Cottage, in Dungeness, Kent.

Indeed, the director, who died in 1994, once said about it: “Every flower is a triumph. I’ve had more fun from this place than I’ve had with anything else in my life. I should have been a gardener.”

Jarman’s garden is a glorious flowering of lavender, daffodils, sea holly, yellow rocket, poppies, sea kale, viper’s bugloss and teasels. These blooms enrich the sparse shingle beach on which the former fisherman’s cottage sits. Hard by the Dungeness nuclear power station, the property is constructed from tarred boards and has striking yellow window frames. Studded with sculptures fashioned from driftwood, its garden is as notable for being an artwork as a horticultural accomplishment.

Left: Derek Jarman, Prospect Cottage Garden at Dungeness, Kent, UK, designed from 1986 Photo: Howard Sooley, 1993. Right: Piet Oudolf Garden at Vitra Design Museum. Photo courtesy of Vitra Design Museum.

This extraordinary space is one of the key…

The black and white world of Sebastião Salgado

Sebastião Salgado is a man of conviction, especially when it comes to Sebastião Salgado’s photography. You would have to give up a career as an economist with a doctorate from the University of Paris and a job offer from the United Nations, and decide that the world viewed through the lens of a camera is […]

Books in Bloom

This May, Firsts London returns to the Saatchi Gallery with a burst of colour, curiosity, and craftsmanship. The theme? Books in Bloom – a celebration of all things botanical in the world of rare books. From ancient herbals to avant-garde floral art books, over a hundred rare book dealers from around the globe will gather to […]

Britain's most famous luxury car marque brings woodland magic to London Craft Week

At this year’s London Craft Week (12–18 May 2025), Rolls-Royce Motor Cars is bringing a captivating artistic display that reimagines the British countryside in exquisite detail and craftsmanship.

Created by artisans at the marque’s Goodwood headquarters, the triptych artwork draws on the flora and fauna of the British Isles, presenting a woodland scene across three evocative moments: day, evening, and night. The centrepiece is a kingfisher, depicted in each panel using a range of complex techniques, transforming leather, wood, metal and thread into an immersive natural tableau.

Chloe Dowsett, Bespoke Specialist at Rolls-Royce, explained the concept behind the triptych. “We wanted the three panels to talk to each other, to be connected,” Chloe explained. “The reeds at the bottom of the first panel, which are made of metal, in rusty red and mandarin orange, are matched in the second panel with grasses in leather dyed in similar hues.”

Paul Ferris, also a Bespoke Specialist at the marque, gave further details about the cohesive nature of the artwork. “For the first time we had the chance to create something that had nothing to do with cars, but using our specialised knowledge which requires all decorative elements in a car to come together for the customer.”

An example of that expertise applied to the triptych is the tree in the third panel and the fox, which showcase the mastery and artistry of the artisans at Rolls-Royce when it comes to marquetry, embroidery and experimenting with colour. Hanging from a metal tree overlaid with marquetry overflowing from this panel, in the central one, we find a squirrel with a bushy tail made of sewing thread, while the fox, is a master lesson in the art of inlaying pieces of veneer onto a surface to create intricate and delicate patterns.

The centrepiece of Rolls-Royce’s exhibition piece at London Craft Week 2025 is a kingfisher

The centrepiece of Rolls-Royce’s exhibition piece at London Craft Week 2025 is a kingfisher, a bird that is considered a “royal icon” and a sign of success. Their presence is a positive indicator of clean water and a thriving environment.

The first section, dubbed “Swan Lake,” comes from Rolls-Royce’s Exterior Surface Centre. Over 100 painstaking hours went into recreating a lakeside habitat, with a pair of swans drifting across the water and a kingfisher hovering above. Artisans employed freehand brushwork alongside airbrushing and basecoat manipulation, even cutting and painting aluminium reeds to mimic the shimmer of morning dew.

As evening sets in, the “Enchanted Woodland” section – the work of the Interior Trim Centre – takes over. Here, more than 400 hours of labour went into transforming leather into a lively forest floor. Daisies are delicately hand-painted, while robust plants spring to life through layered three-dimensional embroidery. Wildlife familiar to the British woodland – a hare with elongated ears, a tufted squirrel with its signature bushy tail – emerge through a mix of painting and tufting techniques that give the scenes striking texture and depth.

The Enchanted Woodland section of the triptych brings to life animals commonly found in the British countryside, such as the hare.

The final piece, “Stealth After Dark,” is arguably the most intricate. Specialists from the Interior Surface Centre dedicated over 500 hours to cutting, pressing, and arranging tessellated wood veneer pieces that capture the stillness of the forest at night. A fox, rendered through marquetry prowls through the undergrowth. In a first for the marque, artisans experimented with painted veneers, tinting the wood just enough to capture the fox’s reddish coat while preserving the natural grain beneath.

In “Stealth After Dark”, Rolls-Royce’s artisans trialled painted veneers to better represent the reddish hue of the fox’s fur and its white-tipped tail.

The triptych will be on display at Rolls-Royce’s flagship London showroom on Berkeley Street, Mayfair, for the duration of London Craft Week. It’s a rare public glimpse into the craftsmanship typically hidden behind the closed doors of bespoke luxury motoring — and a celebration of artistry that bridges the worlds of nature, tradition, and cutting-edge design.

Author: Julia Pasarón

Mesmerising mythology at a major new sculpture exhibition in Norfolk

Mythological beasts stalk the grounds of Houghton Hall – in a good way.

The stately home in Norfolk is presenting Stephen Cox: Myth, an absorbing new exhibition of the work of the British sculptor. Arranged across the park gardens and interiors, this is the most comprehensive retrospective ever of the Royal Academician’s sculpture.

Covering more than 40 years, Stephen Cox: Myth features work made all over the world, from India to Egypt, and from Italy to the UK. Renowned for his monumental work in stone and employing traditional techniques, the sculptor draws on an eclectic range of inspirations from every corner of the globe.

Around 20 sculptures in marble and stone are situated in the landscape and in the Stone Hall on the first floor of the mansion, which has been home to the Cholmondeley family since 1797.

Stephen Cox, Yoginis, 2000-10, Charnockite (basalt). Photo: Pete Huggins © Houghton Hall.

Stephen Cox, Yoginis, 2000-10, Charnockite (basalt). Photo: Pete Huggins © Houghton Hall.

For instance, visitors approaching Houghton Hall, which was built for Britain’s first prime minister, Sir Robert Walpole, in the 1720s and is one of the country’s best exemplars of the Palladian style, are greeted by Gilgamesh & Enkidu. This mighty sculpture depicts the mythological Mesopotamian warriors in black Aswan granite (see lead image).

At the same time, Cox’s smaller works are placed in the State Rooms, where William Kent’s famously ornate decorations have altered little since they were first crafted in the early 18th century.

Lord Cholmondeley, owner of Houghton Hall, explains why these sculptures work so well in this setting. “The title of Stephen Cox’s exhibition at Houghton seems particularly fitting as so much of his work as an artist references the mythology and religions of ancient civilisations – especially Egypt and the Indian subcontinent – with their allegorical fables and anthropomorphic deities.

Stephen Cox, Dreadnought: Problems of History, the Search for the Hidden Stone, 2003, and Chrysalis, 1989

Stephen Cox, Dreadnought: Problems of History, the Search for the Hidden Stone, 2003, and Chrysalis, 1989-91, Imperial Porphyry, Stone Hall, Houghton Hall. Photo: Pete Huggins © Houghton Hall.

“An alchemy of enrichment seems to have occurred between Cox’s sculptures and William Kent’s sumptuous interiors, with their variegated marble tables and entablature, a subtle connection across the centuries that both Kent and his patron, Sir Robert Walpole, would surely have approved of.”

Stephen Cox: Myth exerts a potent hold, and visitors to the exhibition may well find themselves moved to agree with the writer Joseph Campbell’s observation that, “Mythology [is] the homeland of the Muses, the inspirer of art.”

Author: James Rampton

Stephen Cox: Myth
Houghton Hall, King’s Lynn, Norfolk PE31 6UE
Until Sunday 28 September 2025

More information and tickets, HERE.

Lead image: Stephen Cox, Gilgamesh & Enkidu, 2024, Black Aswan Granite. Photo: Pete Huggins © Houghton Hall.

Other unmissable art shows you may like: Astonishing Things: The Drawings of Victor HugoThe Face Magazine: Culture Shift; and David Hockney 25.  

A landmark exhibition uncovering the artist’s overlooked prints

Everyone is familiar with JMW Turner’s matchless oils and watercolours. His 1839 masterpiece, the oil painting The Fighting Temeraire, is regularly voted the greatest British artwork of all time. To mark the 250th  anniversary of his birth, the Whitworth gallery in Manchester is mounting an enthralling new exhibition of his prints, equally magnetic, yet far less widely known and often overlooked. Entitled Turner: In Light and Shade, the show is quite remarkable because, for the first time in a hundred years, it displays all 71 of the artist’s published prints.

The show exhibits Turner’s extraordinary, but unjustly neglected series of landscape and seascape mezzotint prints, which were collected in the Liber Studiorum. Meaning “Book of Studies” and published in fourteen parts from 1807–19, the tome was collated when Turner was at the peak of his fame.

Turner: Light and Shade exhibition. Peat Bog, Scotland, plate 45 from Liber Studiorum J.M.W Turner.

Peat Bog, Scotland, plate 45 from Liber Studiorum J.M.W Turner. Engraved by G. Clint.
© the Whitworth, The University of Manchester.

Giving us a new take on the artist, the exhibition teams his striking Liber prints with a host of his evocative watercolours from the Whitworth’s collection.

The prints demonstrate how Turner’s stunning deployment of colour and atmosphere in paint was reinvented in print by utilising line, tone and negative space.

Prints can often be seen as the “Cinderella” of the art world, but Turner’s use of the medium proved a game-changer. His rarely-seen, exquisite black-and-white works underline the artist’s mastery of light and shade. They show that he is perhaps the most accomplished exponent of ciaroscuro since Caravaggio. They also help explain exactly why Turner is our most revered artist and continues to inspire painters today.

Author: James Rampton

Turner: In Light and Shade
The Whitworth, The University of Manchester,
Oxford Road, Manchester, M15 6ER
Until 2 November

More information and tickets, HERE.

Lead image: Storm in the Pass of St. Gotthard, Switzerland, 1845 J.M.W Turner © the Whitworth, The University of Manchester.

Other unmissable art shows you may like: Astonishing Things: The Drawings of Victor HugoThe Face Magazine: Culture Shift; Stephen Cox: Myth, and David Hockney 25

Raven Smith curates a witty, gripping library for London’s newest literary-minded hotel

There is an exciting new chapter about to begin at Templeton Garden. To mark its official opening this month, the newly launched luxury lifestyle hotel from Miiro has forged a literary partnership with Raven Smith. 

The very popular author and American Vogue columnist is presenting a specially curated selection of his best-loved books for guests and locals to enjoy. The project speaks volumes for the literary ambitions of Templeton Garden, which is located in a part of London with very strong bookish traditions.

The bespoke edit, entitled “Templeton Garden x Raven Smith,” includes such gripping novels as Don’t Look Now by Daphne Du Maurier, Alex Garland’s The Beach, Jurassic Park by Michael Crichton and Patricia Highsmith’s The Talented Mr Ripley.

The collection also features Smith’s own witty novels Trivial Pursuits and Men, which The Observer called, “Wise, sharp and naughty”.

Left: Raven Smith with a few of the books carefully selected for this imitative at Templeton Garden.
Right: The cosy library at Templeton Garden A snug, where armchairs and quiet corners beckon you to settle in and lose hours in a good story.

Guests and neighbours of the hotel – a leafy oasis in Earls Court – can grab a book, settle into an armchair in the very comfortable library at Templeton Garden and lose themselves in another world. In addition, each guest will be left a book in their bedroom, accompanied by a note from Smith outlining the reasons behind his choices.

The author has been thrilled to work on the project. “Pulling this edit together was a fantastic walk down the memory lane of my bookshelves. There’s a bit of everything in there – some classics, some jump scares, all bangers! As a Londoner, and a life-long book lover, working with Templeton Garden to celebrate its launch and share the world’s greatest stories – in my opinion! – has been an absolute joy!”

Nicola James, Templeton Garden General Manager, also welcomes the edit. “We have a long history of great writers living in this neighbourhood, with the likes of Beatrix Potter, Agatha Christie and Alfred Hitchcock all calling it home. As we opened our doors at Templeton Garden, we wanted to honour that legacy while also giving a platform to new voices and conversations.”

She adds, “The library is one of my favourite spaces in the hotel, and I’m excited to see it become a focal point for local residents and guests – a space where everyone can read, tell and swap stories, and disconnect from the outside world.”

Thanks to the talented Mr Smith, the venture looks set to be an absolute bestseller.

Find out more, HERE.
@raven_smith

Author: James Rampton

A life-affirming portrait of the artist’s wondrous 70-year career

David Hockney 25, the largest ever exhibition of the peerless British artist’s work, is having a profound effect on its visitors. One critic has written that the show left him in tears. The exhibition, which runs at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, underscores Hockney’s status as one of the greatest artists of the last hundred years.

Described by the Guardian as, “A joyous pilgrimage of colour and sincerity, with a blast of high emotion,” David Hockney 25 offers an extremely comprehensive survey of his unrivalled seven-decade-long career.

David Hockney himself, who remains enviably vigorous and engaged at the age of 87, has curated the exhibition, which occupies all 11 rooms of the Fondation Louis Vuitton and features more than 400 works created between 1955 and 2025. The pieces are in a range of different media, including oil and acrylic painting, ink, pencil and charcoal drawing, immersive video installations, and digital art (works on iPhone, iPad, photographic drawings).

David Hockney, Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy, 1968.

David Hockney, Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy, 1968. © David Hockney. Photo: Fabrice Gibert.

Emphasising Hockney’s mastery of both draughtsmanship and colour, the show opens with a collection of iconic paintings from the 1950s to the 1970s. These cover his origins in Bradford (Portrait of My Father, 1955), before moving on to his time in London and then California.

The swimming pool – a leitmotif for the artist – plays a central role in A Bigger Splash, 1967 and Portrait of An Artist (Pool with Two Figures), 1972. Meanwhile, his seminal series of double portraits is illustrated in Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy, 1970-1971, and Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy, 1968.

Left: David Hockney, A Bigger Splash, 1967. © David Hockney. Tate, U.K.
Right: David Hockney, Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures), 1972. © David Hockney. Photo: Art Gallery of New South Wales / Jenni Carter.

During the 1980s, Nature takes on increasing significance in Hockney’s work – as shown in A Bigger Grand Canyon, 1998 – before he comes back to Europe to carry on with his investigation of familiar landscapes.

The heart of the exhibition focuses on the past 25 years, spent mainly in Yorkshire, Normandy, and London, seen in such beautiful pictures as May Blossom on the Roman Road, 2009, and Bigger Trees near Warter, 2007.

Seven Yorkshire Landscapes, 2011. Video installation at the exhibition, David Hockney 25, Fondation Louis Vuitton

David Hockney, Seven Yorkshire Landscapes, 2011. Video installation at the exhibition, David Hockney 25, Fondation Louis Vuitton, Paris.
© David Hockney © Fondation Louis Vuitton / Marc Domage

“David Hockney, 25” is a showcase of his astounding work over the past 70 years. The exhibition is likely to leave visitors as uplifted as the artist’s life-affirming motto that hangs over the entrance to the Fondation Louis Vuitton: “Do remember they can’t cancel the spring”.

David Hockney 25
The Fondation Louis Vuitton, 8, Avenue du Mahatma Gandhi Bois de Boulogne, 75116 Paris
Until 31st August 2025
More information and tickets, HERE.

Author: James Rampton

Lead image: Hockney Paints the Stage, 2025. Creation of David Hockney & Lightroom.
Conception 59 Productions. © David Hockney © Fondation Louis Vuitton / Marc Domage.

Other unmissable art shows you may like: Astonishing Things: The Drawings of Victor Hugo; The Face Magazine: Culture Shift; and Siena: The Rise of Painting 1300-1350.

The fiery mezzo shaking up the global opera stage

Whatever it takes to be an opera star these days, walking on stilts isn’t a widely recognised requirement. Nor is dressing up as a gorilla. But they’re useful sidelines for Aigul Akhmetshina, who has done both in her meteorically ascendant, if still young career.

Modern stage directors ask a lot from singers: you can find yourself delivering an aria upside down on a trapeze – unless your contract rules it out. Akhmetshina isn’t someone who expects to come on stage, stand at a designated spot, and sing. She’s agile, physical, alive, which, with the happy combination of a rich, expansive mezzo voice and feisty charm, has made her one of the most thrilling – and marketable – figures on the international circuit. Aged just 28.

“Theatre is complex: if I wanted just to sing,” she says, “I’d stick to concerts. And if the director asks for strange things, I’m happy to try – so long as there are explainable reasons. I’m not against radical stagings, though it’s a shame that young people come to a piece such as Carmen and may never have seen it done traditionally. There needs to be a balance.”

Aigul Akhmetshina playing Carmen at the Royal Opera House in 2024

Aigul Akhmetshina playing Carmen at the Royal Opera House in 2024. © Camilla Greenwell.

As it happens, Akhmetshina is currently the go-to Carmen on the world stage, having starred in an astonishing 13 productions during recent years, beginning at the Royal Opera, Covent Garden (the notorious Barrie Kosky show with a gorilla-suited heroine), then taking in the New York Met, Glyndebourne, Berlin, Naples, Vienna… with another Covent Garden run returning soon. This time it’s a production by Damiano Michieletto. It has no gorillas but is still far from traditional, set in a dreary, small town in Spain with a wardrobe of jeans and T-shirts as opposed to picture-postcard frocks and castanets.

Doing the piece so often, you’d expect Carmen fatigue to set in. But apparently it doesn’t.

“Every time there’s something new. I’m never sure how it will go because the character is so full of possibilities: aggressive, vulnerable, flirty, grounded, femme fatale… You think you understand her, but you don’t: she’s unpredictable, ungraspable. So no, I don’t tire of her, but I do find it draining emotionally, getting killed night after night in so many different ways. And I’m never satisfied with how I play her: if I were, I’d stop because the challenge would go. All I can say is I play her through my own life experience. We have things in common.”

I’m never satisfied with how I play her [Carmen]: if I was, I’d stop because the challenge would go.

       – Aigul Akhmetshina

Akhmetshina’s life experience is, indeed, a story. Born in a village in Bashkortostan, a remote part of the Russian Federation, 1,000 miles from Moscow, she was raised by a single mother in circumstances where people sang but with no obvious future on the world stage. The young Aigul liked folk music and Western pop, particularly Amy Winehouse. But from that unpromising start, she got herself, aged 14, into a performing arts school in a distant town where she lived independently and paid her way by waitressing and performing in a circus-style cabaret as a stilt walker.

“I was a teenager living like an adult,” she says, “where I come from, it’s normal: you learn to work hard early. I grew up fast, feeling life was too short to waste.”

At that school, a teacher suggested she change her voice from soprano to mezzo: a key development. Unfortunately, she was turned down by the celebrated Gnessin Academy in Moscow, which meant she had no proper conservatoire education. But luck intervened when she entered a competition and was noticed by the director of Covent Garden’s Young Artists Programme. So, aged 20, she relocated to London, where she spent the next six months lonely, unhappy, struggling to learn English, and “wanting every day to pack my suitcase and leave. A lot of people had supported me to be here – my mother had spent her savings – I couldn’t let them down. And I’m stubborn. I’m a Taurus. We don’t give up.”

Her reward was that the Royal Opera swept her into a reduced-scale Carmen playing the London fringe. Then, at 21, she found herself parachuted into the real thing on Covent Garden’s main stage when the scheduled star was indisposed. “I’d had no rehearsals with the orchestra or on the stage; I was terrified.”

Aigul Akhmetshina and Jonas Kaufmann in Werther at the Royal Opera House, London, in 2023

Aigul Akhmetshina and Jonas Kaufmann in Werther at the Royal Opera House, London, in 2023. © Bill Cooper

Almost immediately, the conveyor belt of Carmen bookings started rolling – to the point where she now feels she’s ready not just to perform it but direct it: “One day, maybe. It would be more traditional, full of light and colour. This is not a grey piece.”

Akhmetshina understands the need to explore roles beyond the one she knows inside out. And there are plenty landing at her feet now, not least at the New York Met, where the administration is so in love with her she can virtually do what she likes.

Obvious choices are the bel canto Italians: Rossini, Donizetti, Bellini (she’s just been doing Norma in Vienna). But she also favours late 19th-century French: Massenet and Saint-Saens (with the latter’s Samson et Dalila scheduled next season). And somewhere on her wish list are the low-flying coloratura heroines of baroque opera. “People tell me they won’t suit my voice. I disagree.”

“Of course I’d like to work in my homeland […] My family are there. They’ve never heard me sing. […] I can only hope better days will come.”

       – Aigul Akhmetshina

Whatever she has coming, though, it won’t be happening any time soon in her Russian Federation homeland where she’s hardly known. And it’s a sensitive issue. She is keen to say she’s not a Russian national – “I’m half Tatar, half Bashkir” – which, in the light of world events, is understandable. Her current home is London, and she’s trying (with some difficulty) to get British citizenship. But, until that happens, she travels on a Russian passport. And there’s pressure to take a public stand on Ukraine, which she’d rather avoid.

To date, she’s never played the Mariinsky or the Bolshoi and has no plans to do so. “I’ve not been asked. I’ve never met Valery Gergiev [the supreme fixer of state-sponsored musical life in Russia]. And I’m booked up until 2031. But of course, I’d like to work in my homeland. My family is there, they’ve never heard me sing, except on video. At the moment,t I don’t see a possibility. I only hope better days will come.”

Author: Michael White

Leading image © Paola Kudacki
B&W photo of Aigul Akhmetshina © Lear Nurganieva
Colour photo of Aigul Akhmetshina © Beata Nykiel

Style. Identity. Revolution.

How can we not remember the iconic magazine and images of The Face? The magazine was the go-to for any would-be keeping up with the latest trends in music and fashion throughout the ‘80s, ‘90s and ‘00s Britian, and adorned many coffee tables and bedrooms. Therefore, when the National Gallery announced the launch of its exhibition The Face Magazine: Culture Shift, I had to pop along, for old times’ sake.

The Face was started by Nick Logan in 1980. The man responsible for music magazine Smash Hits in the 1970s spotted a gap in the market for a monthly magazine aimed at a youth audience interested in a broad range of subjects that weren’t being featured in fashion, teen or music publications. Culture Shift is the first museum exhibition of its kind and explores the impact of The Face in Britian as well as its influences still today. Curated by Sabina Jaskot-Gill, Senior Curator of Photographs at the National Portrait Gallery together with Lee Swillingham, former Art Director of The Face (1992-1999) and Norbert Schoerner, a photographer whose work featured in the magazine throughout the ’90s and ‘00s, iconic portraits from the trailblazing publication are celebrated with fashion, music, and pop-culture colliding to provide a tour of its history.

Left: Winter Sports, by Jamie Morgan, styled by Ray Petri, January 1984. © Photography Jamie Morgan.
Right: Sade, by Jamie Morgan, April 1984. ©Photography Jamie Morgan.

Focussing on the captivating portraiture and fashion photography captured in the cult magazine, the display showcases how The Face shaped the tastes of the nation’s youth. Featuring photographs, magazine covers and spreads, and film, the exhibition uses the medium of portraiture to explore The Face’s monumental influence and its continued impact on the publishing landscape and the worlds of fashion and music. Organised thematically and chronically, Culture Shift includes over 200 images created by over 80 photographers – many of the era’s most talented (Sheila Rock, Stephanie Sednaoui, David LaChapelle, and Corinne Day), as well as the work of stylists and models, many of which have never been outside of the pages of the magazine.

The display opens with a selection of material from the early years showcasing the overlap between music and fashion under Art Director Neville Brody. The magazine’s power to promote music talent from unknown faces to turbocharging careers was on the rise between 1981-1986 and photographers were given the space and freedom to create iconic images.

Left: Back to Life, by David Sims, styled by Melanie Ward, November 1990. ©David Sims.
Right: Kate Moss, by Glen Luchford, styled by Venetia Scott, March 1993. ©Glen Luchford.

The magazine also spearheaded the role of stylists in magazine photography, such as Ray Petri, who in the 1980s redefined men’s fashion within the pages of The Face, introduced black models and using radical fashion brands.In the late 1980s and early 1990s the magazine adopted an aesthetic and style in line with the emergence of acid house music, a new clubbing scene and the explosion of rave culture. Many of the photographs of this era were black and white and featured unconventional models looking natural in contrast with high fashion glamour that dominated the likes of Vogue. Kate Moss’s career was launched in this period from her covers for the magazine.

The Face ceased publication in 2004, but fifteen years later it was relaunched returning to a radically altered publishing landscape. Navigating the new terrain, the magazine has continued Logan’s original vision for a disruptive, creative and inclusive magazine, championing fresh talent in photography, fashion, music and graphic design. Culture Shift closes with work from this new chapter.

The Face Magazine: Culture Shift
National Portrait Gallery
St. Martin’s Pl, London WC2H 0HE
More information and tickets, HERE.

Author: Linda Hunting

Leading image: Global Warming TV, photographed and styled by Inez & Vinoodh, September 1994. ©Inez & Vinoodh/courtesy The Ravestijn Gallery.

All images courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery.

The hidden talent of France’s greatest novelist

Vincent van Gogh once described the drawings of Victor Hugo as “astonishing things”, and people seeing the Frenchman’s artwork for the first time today may well be equally astounded. The exhibition Astonishing Things at the Royal Academy London is the first time in more than half a century that the public will be able to admire Victor Hugo’s haunting ink and wash drawings.

Although Hugo was globally renowned as a writer, responsible for such timeless novels as Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame, what is less well known is that he was also a gifted artist.

Displaying more than 70 pieces from major European collections, Astonishing Things traces Hugo’s fascination with drawing, from his early caricatures and travel sketches to his landscapes infused with high drama and his magnetic, abstract experimentations.

Victor Hugo’s ink and wash drawings evince a captivating, often wild imagination, and yet they were hardly ever exhibited during his lifetime. Despite this, his art proved an inspiration to Symbolist poets and many painters, from the aforementioned van Gogh and Surrealists André Breton and Max Ernst, to contemporary artists such as Raymond Pettibon and Antony Gormley RA.

Left, Victor Hugo, Mirror with Birds, 1870. Hand-painted and inscribed wooden frame, oil paint, varnish. Maisons de Victor Hugo, Paris / Guernsey. Photo: CCØ Paris Musées / Maisons de Victor Hugo.

Right: Victor Hugo, Octopus, 1866–69. Brown ink and wash and graphite on paper. Bibliothèque nationale de France, Département des Manuscrits

Victor Hugo was a very prominent public figure in 19th-century France. In addition to his work as a novelist, he was celebrated as a poet and politician. During a twenty-year exile on the Channel Islands, he became emblematic of the ideals of the French Republic: liberté, égalité, fraternité. But away from his very public persona, he sought refuge in drawings.

Astonishing Things is organised into four sections. The first is “Writing and Drawing,” which interrogates the relationship between Hugo’s artistic and literary work.

The second section, “Observation and Imagination,” investigates the artist’s drawing process, exploring the array of materials Hugo used, from fine pencil to wet inks.

Next, “Fantasy and Reality” examines one of Hugo’s most enduring artistic leitmotifs: castles. A wonderful draughtsman, he employed memory, observation, and imagination to portray a wide variety of castles, ranging in tone from the evanescent and romantic to the unremittingly bleak.

The final section focuses on another of Hugo’s abiding preoccupations, “The Ocean”. It features drawings associated with Les Misérables, such as “Chain” (1864).

The exhibition demonstrates that Victor Hugo’s drawings of dreamlike castles, chimeric monsters and hallucinatory seascapes are as vivid and visionary as any of his writing.

Prepare to be astonished.

Author: James Rampton

Astonishing Things: The Drawings of Victor Hugo
Royal Academy of Arts
Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BD21st March – 29th June 2025 More information and tickets, HERE.

Lead image: Victor Hugo, The Town of Vianden, with Stone Cross, 1871. Brown and black ink, brown and purple wash, graphite and varnish on paper. Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département des Manuscrits. Image cropped from the original due to formatting restrictions.

You may also be interested in reading about these other exhibitions: Siena, The Raise of Painting, at the National Gallery, London; Arpita Singh: Remembering, at the Serpentine North, London; and Anselm Kiefer: Early Works, at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.

Iconic moments from Leica’s most celebrated photographers

Throughout most of the 20th century, the ability to view the world was not at the touch of a screen but through the pages of magazines that used photographers to bring events into your home. From wars to the first astronauts, to life in another society, those moments were captured by the correspondent photographer, the street photographer, the war photographer. Chances are they all carried a Leica rangefinder. 

It was the camera that immortalised an era. In the right hands, Leica has produced some of the most emblematic images of generations. The portability and lens quality granted the freedom of use to capture the moment as it happened. Joel Meyerowitz, the famous New York street photographer, explains that the Leica rangefinder allows “the framing of the image through the viewfinder while keeping the other eye on the world around you”.

Joel Meyerowitz, New York, 46th St and Broadway, 1976. © Joel Meyerowitz.

Joel Meyerowitz, New York, 46th St and Broadway, 1976. © Joel Meyerowitz.

In an age where cameras were clunky and large, Leica invented one with which you could take high-resolution photos on 35mm film. It was groundbreaking, so much so that the design and idea behind it have essentially changed very little in the past century. The first 35mm film Leica prototypes were built by Oskar Barnack at Ernst Leitz Optische Werke, Wetzlar, in 1913. But it was the camera introduced at the 1925 Leipzig Spring Fair – as the Leica I – that proved to be an immediate success. As Matthias Harsch, CEO of Leica Camera AG, notes, “With its compact format, the Leica I redefined photography, laying the foundation for modern photojournalism.”

At almost the same moment the Leica camera was created, surrealism became an artistic movement, with photography occupying a central role in its creative endeavours. Surrealists believed there was a super reality behind everything, and you just had to wait for it to happen. It was, in essence, how Henri Cartier-Bresson approached his images. Selecting a location, he would wait for the moment to be captured. The Leica was essential to Bresson for its ability to be anywhere, to photograph the everyday, people at their work or their leisure. In his lyrical view of French life, in Sunday on the Banks of the Marne (1938), two couples sit picnicking on the banks of the river, discovering a seemingly timeless order within the random course of everyday social reality.

Robert Capa, Death of a Loyalist Militiaman, September 1936.
© International Center of Photography, Magnum Photos.

Robert Capa, Death of a Loyalist Militiaman, September 1936.
© International Center of Photography, Magnum Photos.

It was arguably in the theatre of mid-20th century warfare that the portable camera found its greatest stage as war photographers could stay with the troops to capture images of the horrors that confronted them. The man who brought war into view was Robert Capa. Armed only with his Leica, he was famously the only D-Day photographer, and his images portrayed the horror of the Normandy beaches in June 1944.

In his own opinion, Capa thought that the greatest photograph he ever took was, Death of a Loyalist Militiaman, 5 September, 1936, during the Battle of Cerro Muriano in the Spanish Civil War. He claimed he never even saw the image in the frame; he simply held the camera far above his head and pressed the shutter.

READ THIS FEATURE IN FULL, INCLUDING EXCLUSIVE COMMENTS FROM JOEL MEYEROWITZ AND NICK UT IN THE SPRING ISSUE OF I-M INQUISITIVE MINDS. ORDER YOUR COPY HERE.

Author: Andrew Hildreth


Lead image: Yevgeny Khaldei, Raising a Flag Over the Reichstag, 2nd May 1945.

Sign-up to our newsletter

To be the first one to receive our latest news, exclusive offers and gifts.

Tick the categories below that appeal to you:

Categories(Required)
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.