The fourth week of advent is full of anticipation and joy at the proximity of Christmas Day. Myth has it that light gets brighter as we approach Christmas day, despite the days being the shortest in the year. Our Advent Time series aims at finishing in the brightest of lights with seven jewelled watches which sparkle with precious gemstones and horological merit.
To ease our eyes into the sparkle of precious gems, I’ll start with Omega’s De Ville Prestige Co‑Axial Master Chronometer (£31,100). This classical looking watch comes in a 34mm case in Sedna™ Gold, the proprietary alloy by Omiega made of gold, copper and palladium.
In this 34mm 18k Sedna™ Gold model with its diamond-paved bezel, the PVD purplish burgundy dial features a sun-brushed finish.
The display is distinguished by PVD Sedna™ Gold coloured hands, as well as alternating Roman numerals and diamond markers that are set in 18k Sedna™ Gold holders. The dial is completed with a date aperture at 6 o’clock and a dotted minute track on the outer zone.
This Master Chronometer certified watch is presented on an 18k Sedna™ Gold bracelet and is driven by the Omega Master Co-Axial Calibre 8800, which can be admired through the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal caseback. Water resistant to 30 metres. You can buy it HERE.
I love pearls, so I had to find a timepiece that paid homage to the queen of gems. I have opted for the Première Mini by Chanel (£64,000). An 18k white gold case frames a striking dial set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.25ct). Coco Chanel famously said about pearls, “A woman should have ropes and ropes of pearls.” I am certain she’d have approved of this watch, with a strap that comes in the form of a triple-row bracelet with 194 Akoya cultured pearls mounted on 18k white gold strands with bracelet tips set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.20ct).
Coco Chanel made pearls chic, wearing them with beach pajamas, evening gowns and even hacking jackets.
You’ll like how flattering is on the skin the shining iridescence of the white pearls. To finish, the 18k white gold movable buckle is set with 110 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.55ct). Although the watch is water resistant to 30 metres, if you fancy emulating Coco herself and take your wrist pearls to the beach, do not go in the ocean with them. In addition to sand, which can be extremely abrasive, damp salt air and saltwater can be harmful to cultured pearls. Buy it HERE.
If you want to wear a winter snowglobe on your wrist, look no further than the MB&F x Emmanuel Tarpin LM “FlyingT” Ice (approx. £170,400). The watch has the flying tourbillon escapement for the movement structured vertically above the dial and under the domed crystal. The dial is positioned at 7 o’clock so that only the person wearing the watch can see the time.
Designer Emmanuel Tarpin brings a new winter wonderland to the original Flying T. The new “Ice” features asymmetrical diamond-set stalagmites (approx. 15ct) that encroach on the sapphire crystal dome and the movement. Tarpin took his inspiration from a trip to Lake Baïkal in Southern Siberia, where in winter the lake freezes from the edge inwards. Replicating the randomness of nature, each stalagmite is different and infiltrates across the matt lapis lazuli dial, leaving the beauty of the mechanism and the time visible to the eye. A limited edition of only eight pieces. You can buy it HERE.
My next choice is the joyful Lady Jour des Fleurs by Van Cleef & Arpels (£165,000), a watch with 941 precious gemstones, 563 of which are diamonds. Drawing inspiration from nature, the 33mm 18k white gold case with round diamonds houses an 18k yellow gold rotating dial with round yellow and pink sapphires, round tsavorite and spessartite garnets, and round red spinels. These gemstones represent the passing of seasons as the spring colours turn autumnal as the day progresses.
Lady Jour des Fleurs features a bezel with round diamonds, cap with round diamonds and round pink sapphires, and crown with a round pink sapphire. All in 18k white gold.
The watch comes with a glossy wine-red alligator strap finished with an 18k white gold pin buckle with round diamonds. At its heart, we find the Valfleurier manual-winding mechanical movement equipped with a 12-hour module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels, 38-hour power reserve and water resistant to 30 metres, although I can’t imagine taking this beauty for a swim. Buy it HERE.
Worthy of a queen, the Breguet Reine de Naples ref. 8999 (£205,400) is cased in 18k white gold, with a bezel and case band set with 131 baguette diamonds (approx. 5.59ct). The flange features 73 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.33ct) and the crown a briolette diamond (approx. 0.26ct).
On the dial of the Reine de Naples ref. 8999, we find hours chapter with Roman numerals and day/night indication in Breguet Arabic numerals.
The dial is made from 18k gold enhanced with a frosting of 147 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0,40ct) with the day and night complication in the upper half of the dial, where the sun is represented by the 24-hour rotating Breguet balance-wheel and the moon is made of hand-engraved titanium. The time is displayed on the lower part. A sapphire caseback reveals the automatic movement with a power reserve of 57 hours and silicon balance spring. The watch is fitted with a satin strap and triple-blade fooling clasp set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds. You can buy it HERE.
Inspired by Haute Couture, the Égérie Moon Phase by Vacheron Constantin (£POA), this jewellery watch is framed by a 37mm 18k rose gold case, dial and bracelet covered in 1,377 diamonds (total 12.37ct).
The Égérie Moon Phase in rose gold is set with diamonds and decorated with enamelling, engraving, and a gold filigree technique known as tapisserie.
The moon phase is located between 1 and 2 o’clock, with two mother-of-pearl moons revealed in turns behind clouds of sapphire crystal. This extraordinary example of haute horlogerie is powered by the self-winding 1088 L moon phase calibre, with the refined finishes revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback. You can buy it HERE.
The winner of the GPHG Jewellery Watch Award, the Bvlgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery (£POA)is the ultimate expression of the Maison’s ability to marry high jewellery and the most refined watchmaking. The snake is made of pink gold with scales set with 724 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 18.05ct) and turquoise inserts. Two pear-cut rubellites (0.4ct) are used for the eyes, giving the snake a fiery stare. By pressing the tongue, the head opens to reveal a fully paved diamond dial with two blued hands.
This Bvlgari Serpenti Misteriosi is fitted with a miniature mechanical calibre, the Piccolissimo.
This award-winning timepiece is powered by a mechanical manual winding micro-movement, the BVL 100 Piccolissimo calibre, one of the smallest mechanical movements available today, entirely conceived and produced at Bvlgari’s Manufacture in Le Sentier. It is just 2.50mm thick, measures 12.30 mm and weighs only 1.30 gr. The winding and setting are done with the bidirectional crown on the caseback. 30 hours power reserve. Unfortunately, this watch is not available online, but you can enquire HERE.
Words: Dr Andrew Hildreth and Julia Pasarón
Show Comments +