Things used to be simple when it came to dress attire – a dinner suit, traditionally in black and accessorised with a slim, precious metal three-hander just peeping from under a perfectly starched cuff. Not anymore. A cursory glance around the awards’ season red carpets quickly reveals that an old-school penguin suit just won’t cut it. There’s Dwayne Johnson in a lovely ballet-slipper-pink satin jacket; Eddie Redmayne, who’s been serving some very avant-garde red-carpet style recently, resplendent in corsages and bows, no jacket required; and Donald Glover in what appears to be pyjamas. “We have seen a trend towards a much more relaxed formal dress attire post-COVID. Suiting is slouchier, more oversized and best paired with a casual t-shirt and pair of trainers,” says Maxim de Turckheim, senior buyer, fine jewellery and watches for Mr Porter. “And this approach is definitely apparent in how watches for formal occasions look today.” On the red carpet that translated to an “anything goes” attitude. Steel sports numbers, high-end complications, spinning precious stones – what happened to keeping it simple?
Impeccable examples of classic dress watches: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G (left) and Breguet Classique ref. 5177 (right).
Before we navigate the rules of this new sartorial landscape, terms should be defined. A dress watch, traditionally, was a three-hander, in precious metal, which prior to the 1920s, meant white gold or platinum; yellow gold was for daytime because that is what cigarette cases were made from, therefore it was deemed gauche to wear this metal after dark. It should be round, slim enough to slide under a cuff, and the dial should be black or blue. And this style still prevails. Patek Philippe’s Calatrava is considered, still, to be the über dress watch and the current collection has an elegant black dial version (though some purists might be offended by the date). Still keeping it easy, Breguet’s Classique line has a gorgeous option with a rich grand feu enamel dial. If round feels a little staid but you still want to abide by the rules, look no further than the Ellipse, Patek Philippe’s homage to the Golden Ratio, whose proportions are said to signify aesthetic perfection. This ratio is what gives the Ellipse a case shape that is unusual, even today.
Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony with Retrograde Day-Date offers a complications alternative to the classic dress watch.
Traditionally complications were a “no” in this category, however, the rules are relaxing with one caveat – keep it high end. While you could opt for a conventional calendar layout comprising sub dials, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date offers a witty alternative. It also makes the case for a lighter dial colour, one that has become incredibly popular on modern dress watches.
Shattering all the sartorial conventions except those of colour and complication is Monsieur de Chanel Tourbillon. It’s black but it’s ceramic, and the strap is nylon. However, there is an innate elegance about this watch that makes pairing it with a dinner suit not seem entirely out of place. Also taking an unconventional approach, while still sticking to the colour scheme, is the sophisticated Hermès Arceau Petite Lune. It’s slim, with a 38mm case, but the dial depicts a mesmeric astral world in aventurine, mother of pearl, argonite and opal. There’s even a delicate diamond-set bezel. Which brings up the other conundrum. To diamond or not to diamond?
Left to right: Monsieur de Chanel Tourbillon Hermès Arceau Petite Lune and Corum Heritage Classical Billionaire Tourbillon.
This does depend on how you feel about diamonds on men in general. The subtle smattering of stones on IWC’s Portofino, where they sit about the hour markers, wouldn’t raise any eyebrows. Piaget’s Altiplano, another classic dress style thanks to its extraordinarily slender case, ups the carat count with its bezel setting but again, the overall effect is understated. Or you could just forget skirting around the issue and bring on the bling with a Corum Heritage Classical Billionaire Tourbillon; 687 diamonds, 124 baguettes, and 44 blacks all adding up to 17.71cts. At 46.5mm this won’t slide elegantly under a cuff, but when you’re wearing this many stones, being seen is surely the point.
One of the greatest restrictions in this category has originally been colour, with a tradition of using black and blue. However, as the palette of shades acceptable for a dinner suit has expanded so has the choice of dial shades. “Colour is something we have seen really continue to grow in popularity in the watch space, so we would recommend men experiment with this when choosing a timepiece for a formal occasion,” says de Turckheim. “One of my personal favourites is salmon dials which we saw everywhere at Watches & Wonders this year.” This choice may seem like a water into which some men are wary of dipping a toe, but you can keep it refined while still expanding your tonal menu.
Although Nomos is famed for its democratically priced, exceptionally well-made designs, it does have a little luxury up its sleeve as well. A Nomos Lux Zobel in rich burgundy with an 18kt rose gold case brings in a different shade while keeping things on the subdued side; or you could make a bolder statement with an intense red Omega De Ville Trésor. Then pair it with an oversized corsage, Eddie Redmayne style.
A very different approach to dress watches: De Bethune’s DBD Digitale “Season 2”, Nomos Lux Zodel and MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Tiger Eye.
However, rather than looking at how rules can be bent, you could always ditch them altogether and step out in something completely unique. Like an MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T. Founder Max Busser has said this was designed for women, however, with its 38.5mm case, it’s not too small for a masculine wrist. The original had a black dial, but the tiger eye version leans more into the unisex space. Hublot, conversely, has placed its Aero Fusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey in a muscular masculine space. This is a substantial 45mm slab of microblasted ceramic, but there is some of the dress watch romance to it.
The pattern on the dial and bezel of this Hublot Aero fusion depicts street artist Shepherd Fairey’s signature mandala; a spiritual graphic designed to aid meditation.
Heading into the future of dress watches is De Bethune’s DBD Digitale “Season 2”. Rather than a three-hander, this is a triple aperture – day, date and month at the top, followed by the jump hours and minutes. It’s pared back, reasonably slim, and in a dark, restrained colour. Welcome to the dress watch for the 21st century.
Words: Laura McCreddie-Doak
Opening photo: Gentleman’s Gazette
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