The legendary Caviar Kaspia starts a new chapter in London as a restaurant, bar and private rooms open to all, still located in the same elegant townhouse tucked away in the heart of Mayfair. Founded in 1927, the Paris-based caviar institution became a magnet from the beginning for actors, artists, singers, designers, intellectuals and politicians, a popularity that continued in the brand’s expansion to other countries.
The dining room on the first floor showcases pieces of art that pay homage to the masters of modernism.
At the helm of this new phase for Caviar Kaspia London we find General Manager David Vareille, best known for his work at The Arts Club – also in Mayfair. In the kitchen, chef Julien Tworek, whose impressive culinary career includes Sketch and The Arts Club. He has recalibrated the menu celebrating culinary artistry. Of course, caviar takes central stage, with a selection that includes Imperial Baeri, Kaluga, Royal Beluga, and Oscietra Reserve.
In terms of looks, nothing has really changed. Created by Portuguese interior-design studio Oitoemponto, the décor is so exuberantly evocative of turn-of-the-20th-century Paris that one could almost hear the laughter of salon soirées from that bygone era. Exotic prints combine with lavish textiles and noble materials to imbue the townhouse with an eclectic and distinctive personality. The cocktail bar is at street level. A fabulous staircase covered in leopard carpet leads to the dining room on the first floor, which also features a small bar, should you fancy an aperitif before sitting down to eat. On the top floor, there are different private rooms.
Chef Tworek’s menu is an hedonistic extravaganza of pleasure and indulgence. Over a glass of Ruinart, our hostess Marine explain the details of each dish. We started with Smoked Salmon, which came with chive cream cheese, yuzu dressing, and salmon caviar; Yellow Tail Hamachi with soy and ginger dressing, radish and avocado; and Blue Fin Tuna Ceviche with rocoto peppers and soy dressing and green shio leaf.
Stars in the Caviar Kaspia menu include Blue Fin Tuna Ceviche, Baked Potato with caviar and Taglioni with caviar.
Then it was time for a dish that is as emblematic of Caviar Kaspia as it gets: the Baked Potato with caviar. The humble vegetable is baked for two hours, its flesh wiped with butter and a champagne-infused cream, which gives it the fluffiest texture one could imagine. On top, a generous helping of your choice of caviar. We picked Kaluga because of its earthy and almost mossy flavour. Another great option would be Oscietra.
Our other main was Caviar Taglioni with imperial Baeri caviar and a champagne cream sauce. This was insanely good. I don’t know who’s making the pasta at Caviar Kaspia but they know a thing or two about this craft. Impossibly thin, incredibly light, just what you need for the pasta to absorb all the flavours of the sauce and the Baeri caviar, which is darker and smaller than Kaluga, and has a more marine flavour, with some citrus notes.
For dessert, Marine surprised us with the house’s special: Kaspia’s Delight, acocoa sponge with ricotta mousse and coffee caviar on top. This dish is not only delicious but a lot of fun too. Push the little balls of coffee caviar against your palate to feel them explode and release all their flavour. A very luxurious version of tiramisu.
I could truly eat here every day. Caviar Kaspia is one of the best restaurants in London; one that offers a celebration of caviar with an elegant setting but without any stifness. This is a cheerful and convivial place for and unforgettable gourmet experience.
Caviar Kaspia
1A Chesterfield St, London W1J 5JF. Tel. 0203 869 4000.
Author: Julia Pasarón
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