On a recent visit to Oslo Runway – an annual showcase dedicated to promoting Norwegian design talent across the capital city – any preconceptions I had about Scandinavian clothing were blown out of the water.
When you consider their riches, it’s hardly surprising that the World Happiness Report consistently lists the people of Norway in the global top ten happiest populations. With their Government Pension Fund standing at a cool £1.3 trillion, the economy’s strength, when measured per capita against a population of just 5.5 million, is double that of the UK and even larger than the US. It is oil wealth of course that has underpinned their affluence but the dramatic rise in the last decade of a burgeoning fashion industry could spell even greater success.
Left, dress by Christian Aks, the ready-to-wear brand which stands out for its minimalistic aesthetic and use of only natural fibres; photo © Madeleine Lohne. Middle, O.A.D. with their contemporary approach to knitwear; photo © Lucas. Right, floral dress by ByTimo, whose founder Tina Mollatt believes in offering high-quality clothing and reasonable prices.
Thirty-three designers, some established and some emerging, showed a dazzling array of men’s, women’s and children’s wear in a diverse selection of locations. Notable for its assurance was the elegant work of Christian Aks. His polished wearable style was all the more impressive given that he’s in his early twenties but accomplished sophistication beyond the age of the designers turned out to be a recurring theme of the event. One and Other was founded by Lene Henricksen in 2017 whose background as a menswear tailor has allowed her to bring a minimalist aesthetic to her women’s collections with a subtle colour pallet allied to an impressive focus on sustainability. Those with less restrained tastes were catered for byTiMo where floaty femininity was captured in a riot of colour and embellishment.
At O.A.D heritage and craftsmanship were celebrated in a fresh modern take on a knitwear brand originally founded in 1853 contrasting with the ultra-modern jewellery designs of friends Camilla & Sarah at Josephine Studio, which set up in 2022.
Jewellery by Josephine Studio is a brand that takes pride in creating comfortable and solid silver and gold pieces that stand the test of time. Photos © Jonas Stefan.
While an online “direct to consumer” model was favoured by many of the design houses, traditional retail isn’t forgotten and a department store, Steen & Strøm, anchors the city centre’s designer shopping district Promenaden. The CEO, Annette Lund, a former corporate lawyer, explained the challenges in persuading international high-end brands to take up residence but the business case she presented was clearly unassailable as
Dior, Gucci, Burberry, Hermès, Bottega Veneta and Louis Vuitton to name but a few are currently welcoming customers from near and far to over 76,000 square metres of hospitality and retail space across six streets and even more ambitious plans are in the pipeline.
It had occurred to me that the concept of jantelov – a Scandinavian societal construct encouraging parity of esteem and the belief that no one is superior to anyone else – might sit uncomfortably beside the promotion of luxury goods but Olso is a city where appreciation of quality, true craftsmanship and commitment to the highest environmental standards sits harmoniously alongside the “law of Jante”. Add in fine cuisine and the warmest of welcomes and it’s a must-visit.
Author: Maurice Mullen
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