Culture

Britain's most famous luxury car marque brings woodland magic to London Craft Week

At this year’s London Craft Week (12–18 May 2025), Rolls-Royce Motor Cars is bringing a captivating artistic display that reimagines the British countryside in exquisite detail and craftsmanship.

Created by artisans at the marque’s Goodwood headquarters, the triptych artwork draws on the flora and fauna of the British Isles, presenting a woodland scene across three evocative moments: day, evening, and night. The centrepiece is a kingfisher, depicted in each panel using a range of complex techniques, transforming leather, wood, metal and thread into an immersive natural tableau.

Chloe Dowsett, Bespoke Specialist at Rolls-Royce, explained the concept behind the triptych. “We wanted the three panels to talk to each other, to be connected,” Chloe explained. “The reeds at the bottom of the first panel, which are made of metal, in rusty red and mandarin orange, are matched in the second panel with grasses in leather dyed in similar hues.”

Paul Ferris, also a Bespoke Specialist at the marque, gave further details about the cohesive nature of the artwork. “For the first time we had the chance to create something that had nothing to do with…

Mesmerising mythology at a major new sculpture exhibition in Norfolk

Mythological beasts stalk the grounds of Houghton Hall – in a good way. The stately home in Norfolk is presenting Stephen Cox: Myth, an absorbing new exhibition of the work of the British sculptor. Arranged across the park gardens and interiors, this is the most comprehensive retrospective ever of the Royal Academician’s sculpture. Covering more […]

A landmark exhibition uncovering the artist’s overlooked prints

Everyone is familiar with JMW Turner’s matchless oils and watercolours. His 1839 masterpiece, the oil painting The Fighting Temeraire, is regularly voted the greatest British artwork of all time. To mark the 250th  anniversary of his birth, the Whitworth gallery in Manchester is mounting an enthralling new exhibition of his prints, equally magnetic, yet far […]

by Papa Abebrese

As someone who considers himself an avid student of film, frequently I come into agreement with fellow movie enthusiasts that older, classic films are always better than more recent ones. Many concur that the new school over saturate their work with special effects, therefore neglecting stronger written screenplays. In these days of lockdown, I have had the opportunity to indulge in exploring cinematographic jewels that I hadn’t had the chance to watch before, many of which support the above notion.

The Duellists is a prime example and, without any doubt, it is among my top five movies. Released in 1977, it was the debut of one of the best film directors of all times: Ridley Scott; and won him the Best Debut Film Award at the Cannes Film Festival. Base on Joseph Conrad’s short story, The Duel, and framed on the backdrop of the French revolutionary wars of the 1800s, the story follows a trivial quarrel between two Napoleon soldiers which escalates to a life-long personal war. The two protagonists are Gabriel Feraud -played by Harvey Keitel, an actor of whom I am a big fan and Keith Carradine on the role of, Armand d’Hubert.

This is a movie that uses beauty to set the mood and often, also to complete the scene. The opening is a duel of swords between Feraud and another man that we later come to find out is the nephew of the Mayor. The Mayor is also a close associate of Napoleon himself. We never find out the reason for this initial battle, but Feraud wins after striking the nephew in his side, not with a fatal blow, but one that draws blood and bring his adversary to the floor.

News of the nephew’s defeat and injury reach the Mayor, who isn’t best pleased. He reaches out to a colleague, a general, who seeks out Feraud for discipline. This general gets to the quarters, where a group of soldiers are relaxed, enjoying some leisure time. Angrily, he demands to know the whereabouts of a Gabriel Feraud, explaining to the whole room what Feraud has done and to whom it has been done. Clearly this is a big inconvenience for the general; his whole manner visibly irritated during the scene.

This is the first time we see Armand d’Hubert. In a room full of roughly 15 men, he is the only man to respond to the commanding officer, letting him know that this was the quarters of Feraud, but presently he is absent. d’Hubert is now saddled with the task of finding Feraud and informing him that he is to return back to quarters and be confined there under close arrest, pending reviewal of the situation.

The Duellists – 1977 British Quad Poster.

d’Hubert manages to find Feraud and gives him the message. Here is where the drama starts, because d’Hubert finds him in the ballroom of a palatial mansion, in the middle of a party and interrupts him while he is comfortably engaged in the company of the owner of the house, Madame de Lionne. This is the only reason that I can think of as to why, from this point on, Feraud shows an unquenchable desire to fight, kill if you will, Armand d’Hubert. No other motive makes itself apparent to me throughout the rest of the film and it is never made clear by the director. The two men are of equal rank (lieutenants), so surely Feraud must know that d’Hubert coming to see him was through orders from above. Regardless, the beef starts here.

My favourite scene follows, with the two men hurrying to Feraud’s quarters to discuss the matter further. As both men live within the barracks, I can only assume this is the house of a girlfriend/concubine to Feraud’s. The elegance of the camera work by Frank Tidy creates an eerily tableau that engages the senses of the viewer.

Feraud starts this dialogue: “Your duty is to victimise me. Am I mistaken? You have chosen to hunt me out in the drawing room of a lady for whom I feel the deepest…” d’Hubert cuts him off, maintaining his poise, softly spoken and calm natured: “Sir, I respect your inexpressible sentiment. Now I can assure you that this was no choice of mine.” Feraud interrupts, now seething with rage, “you have insulted me” he states, staring dead in the face of a man who stares back, but with a look of complete confusion, bewilderment, as if to say “how are you so vexed at me for simply passing on a message?” Feraud repeats his declaration, this time at the top of his voice, his temper unmanageable at this point, “you have insulted me!” d’Hubert, ever the gentleman tries to disarm with reason and manners, “I have strained my patience not to insult you” all to no avail. Feraud demands an apology, d’Hubert refuses to give one, so begins their first duel. Feraud hurries out to the front yard, sword in hand, and snatches up an old man who is laid up in the corner on recline, so he can play referee. Surprisingly, despite his anger and insistence on this fight, Feraud, loses, not by sustaining a major injury, but by being floored and somewhat distressed; it takes his mistress jumping on the back of d’Hubert to prevent a more serious injury.

In the next scene, we see d’Hubert visit a friend of his, the army doctor, in order to remedy his minor injuries from the duel. As they chat, d’Hubert reveals with whom he is entagled in a feud and the doctor is pleasantly amused, as he was the one that had to fix up Feraud after his combat with the mayor’s nephew. He goes on to confess that he has had to mend Feraud a number of times, as he is infamous for instigating duels to satisfy his temperamental honour.

 

 

The movie goes on and Feraud steadily goads d’Hubert into battle a few more times over a 15 year timespan. Sometimes Feraud is the victor, sometime d’Hubert. As the war progresses, career wise both men have esteemed themselves through their service to Napoleon’s campaign and both have been elevated to the status of general. Still, any chance he gets, Feraud provokes and demands more duels. It seems he won’t stop until one of them either dies or produces a hand written and stamped apology for everyone to see, by now, their rivalry has become the talk of the town. All the while, poor d’Hubert just wants to focus on his career, and retire into family life without any of that drama.

Let me fast forward to their final battle. After years of campaigning in brutal conditions, Napoleon has been defeated, and new beings have come into power. d’Hubert is in a quasi semi-retirement state, living in his sister’s estate and through his sister’s meddling, married to a local young lady. He now has a permanent limp, probably caused by frostbite suffered while serving out in Russia. One day, as he walks his dogs through their greenery, two men approach and ask where they could find General Armand d’Hubert. When they realise they are in fact in front of him, they let it be known they have been sent by a General Feraud, who demands yet another duel. d’Hubert is mystified, and for the first time he spills out some anger: “I could have you both carted back to where you came from in irons. I swear to God I could whisper, only whisper and you’d both be dead in a ditch before morning. This is my home!” The main speaker of the two replies “we had proceeded on the assumption that you were a gentlemen…” I can fully understand d’Hubert’s frustration. I forgot to mention that there is a point in the middle of the film, when Napoleon has lost control in France, and Feraud is due to be executed for making comments in blind allegiance to Napoleon, that had offended the new rulers of the country. Upon hearing this, for some reason d’Hubert makes an appeal on his behalf and as he had made friends in the right places, manages to get the execution dropped down to a mere banishment.

 

 

Back to the final duel, all parties involved have agreed that pistols will be drawn for this duel, two bullets in each gun. The next day, battle commences on the same green in which Feraud’s two messengers propositioned d’Hubert the day before. After much dancing around the fields, Feraud misses both attempts at d’Hubert and is now caught in an extremely compromising position: on his back on the grass, with d’Hubert standing over him, one bullet left in the chamber of his pistol. With supreme resentment, Feraud screams at d’Hubert to finish off the job and spare him the embarrassment. d’Hubert, I repeat, ever the gentleman, finally manages to conclude this torment: “you have kept me at your beck and call for 15 years. I shall never again do what you demand of me. By every rule of single combat, from this moment on, your life belongs to me, is that not correct? I shall simply declare you dead. In all of your dealings with me, you will do me the courtesy to conduct yourself as a dead man. I have submitted to your notions of honour long enough. You will now submit to mine.”

The very last scene shows Feraud standing on a hill, overlooking a lake. Zooming into his face you see nothing but disgrace and spiritual and mental unease.

Despite being the undoubted antagonist in the situation, Harvey Keitel portrays Feraud excellently. His relentless pursuit of d’Hubert and passion for battle constantly amused and entertained me throughout, even though it isn’t for any particularly rational reason.
Another captivating factor with this picture, is how well captured the feel of the 1800s is by a film produced in the 1970s. Such attention to detail. While writing this piece, through my research, I came to realise the Duellists was Ridley Scott’s debut movie. I’m amazed by how well put together the film is, that being said, after such a debut it doesn’t surprise me how successful and illustrious a career this director has gone on to have, being responsible for masterpieces such as Alien, Blade Runner, Thelma & Louise, Gladiator, Hannibal, and American Gangster to mention just a few.

The Duellists proves that you don’t need overwhelming special effects or rotund soundtracks to make a good film and that most definitely, older movies are the best!

The Duellists is available to watch on Sky cinema and on Netflix.

by Francesca Fearon

How far is it from battlefield to catwalk? Not very far when you look at the trench coat, a classic that in the century since it trod through the mud of Flanders remains, in essence, unchanged on the catwalks of Burberry, Hermès and Bottega Veneta today, but for a few tweaks here and there. Originally designed as a military garment, the architecture of the coat remains the same, but how much protection these catwalk versions would afford in a storm is debatable. One can only imagine what Lord Kitchener, who helped popularise the trench coat in the Great War, would make of the silk scarf versions on the Burberry catwalk today or any of its other recent incarnations.

Burberry produced it one season in silk-chiffon and succeeded in making it waterproof, nevertheless the trench coat has become somewhat divorced from its original function. Initially called the Tielocken, it is one of clothing’s perma-trends: a tough weatherproof utilitarian garment invented at the time of the Boer War, before being upgraded for the trenches of Northern France.  This waterproof has become an enduring item, adapted and updated with the generations to emerge the icon that it is today.

Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s creative director from 2001 to 2018, summed up its qualities a few years ago, “The trench is a very modern way of dressing as it goes over everything in whatever weather.” It’s more than a coat he said, “it’s a piece of engineering. There are so many aspects to it: it’s functional yet it is fashionable, and the details, from the belt and buckles to the stole flaps and D-rings, are all so carefully designed. It is clothing with real integrity and purpose.”

His successor Riccardo Tisci has found the coat similarly enticing having featured 20 trenches in his debut collection and many more since. He recalled in a recent interview how in France a Chanel bag may be given by parents to reward good behaviour at school, whereas in England it is the Burberry trench.

It is something I discovered here,” he says, “Adele told me the first thing she bought when her first single came out was a Burberry trench.

Between them, Bailey and Tisci have elevated the trench coat to a fashion statement reproducing it in silk, chiffon, satin, tweed bouclé and more. We see it today in checks on the catwalk of Prada, in suede at Hermès, leather at Bottega Veneta where new designer of the year, Daniel Lee, presented three relaxed versions for spring, and in nude pink by Alexa Chung for Barbour. Classic brands like Aquascutum, Daks and Mackintosh produce new versions each season, because the trench is a superb trans-seasonal coat that pretty much works all year round. It solves so many sartorial problems being uniform-smart without being too formal; classy because of its heritage but also democratic.

As Bailey once said: “I’ve always been intrigued by mixing historical sartorial design with harder-edged modernity, by the play between aristocratic and street style.” Elizabeth Murray, a fashion curator at the Victoria & Albert museum believes part of the trench coat’s success is down to its versatility:  “Designers can reinterpret the trench coat season after season, its utilitarian design making it both timeless and unmistakably modern,” she says. The V&A collection has a number of different examples of trench coats, including a classic beige gabardine coat from c. 1972, a lilac lace Burberry design by Christopher Bailey for S/S 2014 and a black trench coat by Swedish company Filippa K, made entirely out of recycled plastic bottles. “These examples highlight the versatility of the trench coat, and the range of ways designers reinterpret and adapt the design.”

Aquascutum’s heritage like that of Burberry is very tightly stitched to that of the trench coat, as both brands have laid claim to designing the original. In the early 1850s, the Regent Street tailor and entrepreneur John Emary patented a waterproof wool which he called “Watershield”. Its Latin translation Aquascutum was the name by which the company became known. They made coats using this material which that worn by soldiers in the Crimean War.

Burberry Spring-Summer 2020 collection for men.

Meanwhile in 1860, a draper in Basingstoke called Thomas Burberry developed a closely woven cotton gabardine that proved durable and weather-proof without using any waterproofing. Officers started wearing these weather-proof coats in the Boer War. By 1914 the military-style epaulettes and D-rings for the attachment of military equipment had been added and many soldiers serving in the trenches were issued with it; that’s how the coat earned its name. Whether it was first designed by Aquascutum or Burberry is difficult to confirm, however, the coat proved very popular amongst the ranks suffering the horrors of trench warfare.

The design received its first celebrity endorsement from Captain Sir John Alcock who was the first airman to fly across the Atlantic: “Although in continual mist, rain or sleet, and the altitude varying from 200 to 11,000 feet causing great variations of temperature, I kept as dry, warm and comfortable as possible under such conditions,” he wrote to Burberry.

The coat was subsequently adopted by Hollywood stars in film noir movies becoming a uniform for Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (dressed in Aquascutum trench-coat) and many of the Raymond Chandler films. Lauren Bacall simmered in beige trench in Key Largo (Aquascutum) as did Catherine Deneuve in The Umbrellas of Cherbourg (Burberry). Sofia Loren, Robert Mitchum, Sir Michael Caine all wore Aquascutum trench-coats on screen. Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street, Meryl Streep in Kramer Vs Kramer are amongst those who wore Burberry ones. Lauren Hutton wore a trench coat in the 1980s film American Gigolo and glamorously reprised that look on the catwalk with Gigi Hadid to close the Bottega Veneta show in 2017.

Gigi Hadid and Lauren Hutton at the Bottega Veneta Spring-Summer 2017 show.

However, it is unconfirmed who designed the original for the movie – perhaps Giorgio Armani who designed much of the film’s wardrobe. The Queen also looks unfailingly smart in a trench-coat whether unveiling a plaque on a rainy day or out hacking on horseback in Windsor Great Park. While it remains popular in the corporate world and is the coat of choice for gumshoes and movie stars, its modern-day following amongst the fashion-savvy is the result of clever marketing by Burberry, whose campaigns shot by Mario Testino injected some much-needed zest and energy into the garment.

Models like Kate Moss, Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Cara Delevigne, and young actors like Eddie Redmayne made the trench-coat sexy amongst the young generation.

Burberry and Aquascutum still have their classics, such as the updated Heritage collection re-introduced by Burberry in 2014 which neighbourhood names like Westminster, Kensington and Chelsea defining different styles of single and double-breasted styles.

While Aquascutum has a cropped double-breasted style called the Trafalgar and the fly-front Newman design. Fashion icon, wardrobe statement, the trench coat is one of the smartest fashion investments anyone can make.

by Dr Andrew Hildreth

Four Seasons Hotel. Geneva
13th May 2020

Cartier was always avant-garde, the jeweller and clockmaker to the upper echelons of society. The French maison’s designs were elegant and refined, the very best of what could be achieved and money could buy. From founder Louis Cartier to the other family members who were involved with the brand, the name was one that represented innovation and bespoke.

In the same way that Cartier changed the design of the wristwatch, their clocks set the standard of luxury for their era, always distinctive and unique in terms of aesthetics.

Being so exclusive meant that the absolute number of clocks made by the house of Cartier was pretty limited. Collecting Cartier is always a labour of love, a recognition that they produce unique and definitive items, whether jewellery or timepieces. In this instance, in one collection, 104 clocks go on display and sale on May 13th, at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva, all signed by Cartier, ranging from the1900s to the 1980s.

Simply as a statement of Cartier’s expansive and distinctive design acumen, this is an important show, with the largest collection of its kind ever to come to auction, amassed over a lifetime. From an art-deco “altar” desk clock in enamel to a Belle Epoque “Planet semi-mystery day and night” desk clock, all pieces are in exceptional condition and working – just imagine the sound of 104 alarms going off at 8.00am!

The collection portrays many different styles and materials in which Cartier worked over these eight decades and comes with renowned provenances such as Rothschild and others. Estimates range from CHF10,000 to CHF150,000

www.christies.com

COSMIC VISIONS FROM THE USSR

By Alexandra Sankova in collaboration with the Moscow Design Museum
Published by Phaidon.  Hardback £24.95

It hardly seems possible that about sixty years ago we looked to the skies above for the brave new world that would be the progression of mankind and an endless frontier of possibilities and adventure.As the Cold War gained momentum, space became a dramatic frontier in the competition between the democratic world lead by the US and the communist USSR. Soviet Space Graphics brings together more than 250 illustrations from the Soviet Union that reveal the rarely seen depictions of the space race from their point of view, including detailed diagrams around themes that were part of the Soviet space programme.

In a world before special effects and CGI (computer generated imagery), the imagination of artists provided the backdrop to an individual’s flights of fancy to the outer reaches of the solar system and beyond out into the universe.  Far from being perfunctory and merely illustrative, the drawings and paintings encapsulated the feelings of optimism, intrigue and discovery.  Readers became engaged in the action and committed to the effort of the state in conquering space.   

At the time, the USSR produced a wealth of popular-science magazines which oozed Communist sentiment and served as a vital device for the promotion of state ideology. Many illustrations from mostly lost magazines are included in this book, giving readers a change to take a trip down Soviet nostalgia lane, to explore a utopian socialise world in space that never came to be. Paradise lost.

From the very outset of the Russian Revolution (1917 – 23) the Soviet government had a commitment to make the achievements of science, industry and culture accessible to all.  The transformation of the country to a modern and different form of governance was ideally suited to dreaming big, masterplanning the future, and presenting the most incredible and aspirational visions to society.  The young Soviet state quickly recognised the opportunity that astronomy and space flight represented in fulfilling their needs.  But it was not until the successful launch of Sputnik 1 in 1957 that the promises began to have a tangible and realised form.  A number of other Soviet “firsts” followed: the Luna 2 space probe reaching the moon, the successful propulsion of Yuri Gagarin into space and his safe return, and equally the same for Valentina Tereshkova.  Alexei Leonov became the first to exit his Vostok capsule in space and return safely in 1965. 

With the American’s landing on the moon the imagination of the illustrations became ever more expansive: colonies on distant worlds, meetings with strange new civilisations, and their realisation on contact that the socialist means of government and society were correct.  Soviet citizens lived vicariously through the imagination of the artists and their brave new worlds that would become tomorrow’s reality. 

The book is a pictorial homage to that lost world where the future offered us everything we dreamed of in a bright clean interplanetary socialist system.  Gone were the stresses and rigour of the everyday toil.  The future was an exciting place, free of germs and grime, toil and tension.  In its place would be the endless possibilities of exploration and excitement, a brave new world of adventure and affluence.  The true socialist state of humanity was in space.

Soviet Space Graphics is divided into four chapters: Soviet Exploration, which depicts images of the USSR ambition to conquer the cosmos, including dogs Belka and Strelka; Cosmic Pioneers reveals heroes of the time, such as Yuri Gagarin; Future Visions concentrates on the visions the Soviets had of future urban life; and lastly, Alternative worlds, which focuses on adventures into the unknown.

Although such worlds never materialised there is a sense of longing about how the future was viewed.  Conquering space became a secondary consideration compared to the problems of life on earth.  Subjugation of the national economy to exploring an inhospitable and unliveable environment became a less important requirement. 

The author, Alexandra Sankova is the director and founder of the Moscow Design Museum, which was established in 2012 with the mission to record, preserve and promote the design heritage of Russia. She has curated and co-cureated a numer of exhibitions at the museum that have toured internationally, including Soviet Design 1950-1980 (2013) and Discovering Utopia: Lost Archives of Soviet Design (2016) among many others. She is also author of 23 (2010) and co-author of Designed in the USSR: 1950-1989 (Phaidon, 2018) and VNIITE: Discovering Utopia – Lost Archives of Soviet Design (2018).

Denis O’Regan

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

How on earth do you begin to put into a limited amount of words an interview with a man who, in my eyes, and those of practically any music lover, is one of the world’s greatest Rock & Roll photographers of all time?

Born in 1953, O’Regan tried to follow art studies but was denied a place at Ealing Art School (attended by rock legends Freddie Mercury, Keith Richards, Ronnie Wood, Ray Davies and Pete Townshend) as he had not taken his Art A Level; but as the determined young man he was, he insisted on showing them his work and was offered a project to do instead and finally got a place.

Under parental influence though, he moved away from photography and accepted a position in The City. It wasn’t until his mother passed away in 1978 that Denis quit The City for good to become the lens that immortalised most of the music icons of the 20th century, including David Bowie, Pink Floyd, the Rolling Stones, Queen and Duran Duran to mention but a few.

Our Deputy Editor, Lavinia Dickson-Robinson, had the privilege to talk to Denis at his gallery in Hammersmith, London, just a few weeks ago, a conversation no music fan should miss.

I-M: Who gave you your first camera?

D.O’R: I was never given one. I bought a £5 Zenith camera from a friend when I was 21.  There was nothing on it, not even a light meter; I had to work it all out myself.  I took the Zenith with me on my InterRail trip and took masses of pictures, while becoming totally hooked on travelling.  I went past the Arctic Circle down to Budapest and Yugoslavia, then Greece and up to Venice, which was the highlight of my trip. After that I travelled around the South of France.  The train comes in high above the bay of St. Tropez. It was so beautiful I thought I had to stay there.

I-M: What did inspire you to be part of the Rock & Roll scene as a photographer?

D.O’R: I was a huge music fan well before I was 10. I made my mother take me to see the Beatles’ Christmas show in 1964 and my interest just carried on, but it was the David Bowie concert that changed it all. I saw him at the Hammersmith Odeon (where I’d seen The Beatles) the night before he retired the Ziggy Stardust character. A lot of future stars were there: Kate Bush, Gary Kemp… all of whom were inspired by the Bowie and Punk era.

Denis David Bowie outside a restaurant in Tokyo.

I-M: So how did you become the chosen one?

D.O’R: The irony is that it worked the other way around, I chose it. The first time my pictures were published was after I shot The Dammed at the Hertfordshire School of Art & Design.  Everything happened by chance. The Sex Pistols were supposed to play but Malcolm McLaren said they had not gone down very well the previous time at St Alban’s so The Damned appeared instead.

This was a school hall so there was no lighting and I didn’t have a flash. Thankfully, there was another photographer called Chalkie Davies who was shooting for NME and who lent me one. He didn’t like the music so asked me to shoot it and send NME the pictures.  It was only The Damned’s third show after their legendary seminal 100 Club show.  They made it into all the music papers. At the time, I was still working in The City and was processing film in my bathroom, drying the prints with a hair dryer before going to sleep. I would deliver the prints to NME at lunchtime and get in trouble at work for being late.

As we were all freelancers I had to curate the images myself. When I look back at my contact sheets from that time, I realise I chose the obvious shots. Now I think I may have chosen different images. For instance, there is one of Debbie Harry lying on stage which I ignored back then, and that became an iconic picture over the years.

Chalkie and I became friends. He was sharing a house with Phil Lynott from Thin Lizzy and having just shot one of their most famous album covers, he decided he’d had enough of touring. So when Phil said “we are going off to Scandinavia for three weeks,” I asked to come along.  It was amazing watching them play having travelled around Norway and Sweden through deep snow. I loved it. I came back and decided that was it for me: photography, travel, rock bands… I’m off!

Duran Duran NYC 1984.

I-M: How long did you work for them?

D.O’R: I did a lot of work with them and a lot of touring in the late 70s.

In places like London, New York and L.A. there was fierce competition. You’d go into the photographers’ pit and there might be 20 of us, so I decided to combine my love of photography with my love of travel and go to less obvious places like Detroit or Gothenburg to shoot shows, where access was easier than it was in London.

In the very early 80s I met John Taylor from Duran Duran, who said he had looked at my pictures in NME on his way to school. Then I started touring with some of the world’s top bands including Thin Lizzy in 1980, 1981, and 1982; David Bowie in 1983, 1987, and 1990; The Rolling Stones in 1982; Duran Duran in 1984; Spandau Ballet and Neil Diamond in 1985; Queen in 1986; Pink Floyd in 1994; and KISS in 2008.

I-M: You were appointed official photographer for Live Aid at Wembley Stadium in 1985. It must have been an amazing experience, wasn’t it?

D.O’R: Yes it was. I also worked with Bob Geldof producing the commemorative book and was official photographer for Live8 in Hyde Park in 2005.

Denis worked with the Rolling Stones for over a decade.

I-M: From all the artists you have worked with, would it be fair to say David Bowie was your favourite?

D.O’R: Probably. I went on two world tours with him which took eight months each. He hadn’t toured for five years before the 1983 Moonlight tour. So for the 12 years between 1978 and 1990  I covered all his shows, around 200 of them. The 1983 book published by Penguin in 2018 was a huge success, not just as a hardback but also as a limited-edition boxed set containing five books, limited edition vinyl and fine art prints. The books document Bowie’s most successful year following the release of his “Let’s Dance” album.

David and I were close, but of course we bickered and fell out occasionally as it is bound to happen when you work so closely with anyone; but he was the focus of my attention, yes. The difficult bit was creating “Ricochet” in 2018, after David had died. For this boxed set I had to go through all the material on a monitor in his New York office and got a bit ‘David blind’. This was the first product to feature the David Bowie estate stamp, and it has been entered into the Victoria & Albert Museum’s permanent collection in London.

I-M: What about The Rolling Stones,
how was working with them?

D.O’R: In 1981 I had gone out to America due to the competition in London, to photograph Alice Cooper and The Stones, and while I was there, a friend got me a pass for an 80,000 seater Stones show in Detroit.  So I jumped into the pit with all the other photographers but was caught and thrown out by a beautiful Amazonian looking girl.

The following year I was in Aberdeen airport and that same girl was there! She remembered me because she said that I had been very polite despite her throwing me out. It turned out she was Alvinia, Mick’s PA and PR on the tour, although I didn’t know that at the time. A week later, I was in Rotterdam, in a 65,000 seat stadium and had to call her to sort out my photo pass. She told me there were 75 other photographers at the show and I decided to ask her if there was an official one. There wasn’t so I offered. She replied that she would ask the band, the most magical words in my career so far.

Alvinia called back and said that the band had agreed for me to do that da’s show only but I ended up doing another one and another one after that…  One day on the private jet, Alvinia came to tell me that my time was over. I pushed it and said that Keith had looked at my pictures but Mick hadn’t. Then Mick came to chat to me and that was my audition. I stayed the full four weeks till we got to Wembley, but he had’t looked at my pictures yet! So I went into Mick’s dressing room and told him so. He replied, “how remiss of me” with that twinkle in his eye so typical of Jagger. I asked him if I could stay with them until he did and he said I could. That meant staying for the four remaining weeks of the tour.

Denis Freddy Mercury and Brian May on stage.

I-M: Your work includes very famous album covers like Queen’s Live Magic, Live at Wembley’86; Pink Floyd’s P*U*L*S*E; and Sting’s Bring on the Night among many others; as well as books like David Bowie’s Serious Moonlight world tour and Duran Duran’s Sing Blue Silver. What are you working on at the moment?

D.O’R: Several things actually. Last year I covered a number of stadium shows with Bon Jovi and I hope to do some more work with them this year. I also covered Le Mans 24 hour race, having recently signed a partnership with Aston Martin for a series of co-promoted limited edition books.  I am preparing another book and event, this one curated by Duran Duran’s John Taylor.

I will soon start working on my next David Bowie book, covering his 1987 Glass Spider tour. I want to tie this one to Berlin, as he lived there for quite some time and loved it. He and I visited his old flat in East Berlin, Hansa Studios, where he’d recorded Heroes, and many other places.  I remember his show by the Berlin Wall in front of The Reichstag, the German war headquarters, with thousands of people gathered on the East side to hear him play.

I will be also shooting Italian legend Gianna Nannini’s first stadium show in Florence, her home town, followed by an event and exhibition at the gallery. Her brother was a Formula 1 driver and she’s an Italian icon, still performing arena shows across Italy. I have a huge archive, and there’s still much to do for people to see. I’d like to produce as many books and exhibitions as possible in order to bring that history to them.

www.denis.uk
Gallery:
271 King St. London W6 9QF

 

By Daniel Mercieca

(opening image: Miyake Sho’s And Your Bird Can Sing)

Exploding across the UK with innovation and inclusivity, the 17th Japan Foundation Touring Film Programme explores happiness in films which scintillate with smiles and tears, excitement and awe.

Running from the 31st January – 29th March, the touring film programme embodies the meandering quests for happiness undertaken by its diverse cast of onscreen characters. A colourful spectrum of genres including anime, documentary, literary adaptation and drama illuminate the charms and challenges of contemporary Japan. From the friendly bows of staff members to the amusing speeches of Senior Arts Programme Officer, Junko Takekawa, the programme promises an immersive and insightful experience of Japanese culture.

 

 

A highlight of the programme premiere at the ICA in London has been its wonderfully enlightening atmosphere. Each film is accompanied by informative handouts written by university professors and film critics, enabling the audience to connect with concepts such as hikikomori (the “shut-in”), seishun eiga (the “youth film”) and otaku (“fanboy/fangirl”). Feedback forms and Q&A sessions provide the opportunity to discuss themes raised by the films, as well as the intricate process of Japanese filmmaking. It is refreshing to hear waves of laughter from Japanese and English-speaking audience members as the words of guest speakers are translated onstage, celebrating social nuance and cultural synergy.

Happiness is interpreted and illustrated in a variety of styles across the films, capturing beautiful impressions of Japanese society. Snapshots of adolescent aspirations and anxieties, dichotomies between tradition and technology and the significance of family flash throughout the programme. Psychological and geographical pursuits of happiness are most effectively translated, bestriding cultural and linguistic barriers.

 

Ozaki Masaya’s Her Sketchbook.

 

Transitioning between the light-hearted, hazy aesthetics of Ozaki Masaya’s Her Sketchbook, the slow, meditative rhythms of Miyake Sho’s And Your Bird Can Sing and the heart-piercingly moving story of Tsutsumi Yukihiko’s The House Where the Mermaid Sleeps, exemplifies the programme’s vast emotional range. Ozaki Masaya spoke boldly and openly about how his character was traced onto his protagonist Mami as she awkwardly shuffles her way throughout Her Sketchbook, confronting social insecurities with comedy.

Screening And Your Bird Can Sing on a Friday evening enabled the audience to walk out into the night like the film’s young, naïve characters, drifting through the deep blue cityscape of Hakodate. Reading Dr Imai Kohsuke’s notes about Japan’s laws regarding brain death and heart transplants injected striking realism into the traumatic, tragic plot of The House Where the Mermaid Sleeps.

 

Please see The Japan Foundation Touring Film Programme
website for venue, date and ticket information: https://www.jpf-film.org.uk/venues/ica.
“Watch widely and deeply, absorbing as much as you can from new films to
discover stories that inspire you to unlock your hidden talents”.

A tale of addiction, abandonment and sorrow

Hansel and Gretel is a well-known German fairy tale recorded by the brothers Grimm and published in 1812. In it, a young brother and sister are abandoned by their parents because they are too poor to feed them, and end up kidnapped by a cannibalistic witch living in a forest in a house made of gingerbread, cake, chocolate and candy. The two children escape with their lives by outwitting her.

As a kid, I found this tale scary and unsettling, I couldn’t understand what would lead parents to abandon their own children, and the idea of a flesh eating cannibal witch made the hairs on the back of my neck stand. Years later, I read that the story may have originated in the medieval period of the Great Famine (1315–1317), which caused desperate people to abandon young children to fend for themselves or even resort to cannibalism.

The fairy tale enjoyed a multitude of adaptations for the stage, among them the opera Hänsel und Gretel by Engelbert Humperdinck—one of today’s most performed operas. The most recent adaption of the fairy tale is Gretel & Hansel, a 2020 American dark fantasy horror film directed by Oz Perkins, who explains the change in the title because the story focuses so much on Gretel: “it’s awfully faithful to the original story. It’s got really only three principal characters: Hansel, Gretel, and the Witch. We tried to find a way to make it more of a coming of age story. I wanted Gretel to be somewhat older than Hansel, so it didn’t feel like two 12-year-olds – rather a 16-year-old and an 8-year-old. There was more of a feeling like Gretel having to take Hansel around everywhere she goes, and how that can impede one’s own evolution, how our attachments and the things that we love can sometimes get in the way of our growth.”

Alice Krige stars in Gretel and Hansel as the witch, Holda.

In this iteration of the classic children’s folklore story, an older Gretel (played by Sophia Lillis) leads her much younger brother Hansel (Sam Leakey) into a dark wood in desperate search of food and work to assist their poor parents, only to stumble upon a nexus of terrifying evil, the cannibal witch Holda.

Our Editor Julia Pasarón had the chance to interview the two actors playing Holda, legendary Alice Krige and raising star Jessica de Gouw, who explained how this original version of the German fairy tale explores who the witch is and how she came to be, “The story of Gretel and Hansel doesn’t typically look at the person behind this great villainous character, so hopefully audiences will enjoy exploring that side of this classic story. I certainly enjoyed it. There’s often a feeling of responsibility with famous characters or stories, but I just had a lot of fun playing Holda.”

It is never easy to share a character with another actor, but of doing so with Alice, Jessica said, “Alice and I really only observed each other in the read through, and I did my best to watch her and listen to her on set on days when I was there. Our crossover was quite minimal, and her creation of Holda is truly unique, but I did my best to match her accent in particular.”

Alice explained that Oz thought of Holda as an addict, “she was addicted to eating children and Oz takes you back to discover why. Holda is horrifying but by the end, you have understood her compulsion, her grief and her shame.” For what Jessica saw on set, Alice “did a beautiful job of humanizing Holda, of creating this incredibly flawed, dangerous character. What Holda does is unforgivable, but the film gives a history to the characters that is really fascinating to observe.”

The movie also explores the complexity of relationships, one side between brother and sister, and on the other, maybe even more poignantly, between Gretel and Holda. “This story is told from Gretel’s point of view and it unravels how they all got there, taking you into the witch’s back story, how she arrives at this place,” explained Alice, “you also see this young woman, Gretel, discovering her own power, because she has similar powers to Holda but at the end, she’s poised on the cusp of choice as to how she will use it.”

One could say this is a kind of horror version of a coming of age movie. In Jessica’s view, “through the course of the film, we watch brother and sister, particularly Gretel, navigate this unknown world entirely on their own, learning who to trust or not, learning the value of family and to listen to your gut and instinct.” About Gretel specifically, she added, “I think as a young woman, as Gretel is, you do learn to trust your instinct when navigating the world of adults, often the world of men. There is incredible power as a woman, understanding that you have that power within you and you must learn to listen to it and embrace it. Female intuition is an incredible thing.”

Sophia Lillis plays Gretel in Perkins adaption of the classic German fairy tale.
Gretel & Hansel: A Grim Fairy Tale, directed by Oz Perkins, produced by Fred Berger, Brian Kavanaugh-Jones, and Dan Kagan, and the screenplay is written by Perkins and Rob Hayes. Sophia Lillis and Sam Leakey portray the main characters respectively, alongside Charles Babalola as The Hunter and Jessica De Gouw and Alice Krige, both playing Holda.

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

Tate Modern. London
12th March – 6th Sepember 2020
Ladies & Gentlemen (Helen, Henry Morales) by Andy Warhol.

My journey towards loving Andy Warhol’s work started serendipitously, through a 1984 retrospective article in The Sunday Times about Edie Minturn Sedgwick, titled “A girl on Fire.” I painstakingly cut out parts of the article to make a collage for my bedroom door. It read, “This room belongs to a girl on fire who wants to be a superstar. She will stop at nothing to get what she wants. If you think you can learn to understand her, then come in…” I wish I still had that collage.

In 1989, The Cult immortalised Edie in their song, Edie (Ciao baby). “I was that girl on fire… always said you were a youthquaker… a stormy little world shaker… Oh, Warhol’s little queen… an angel with a broken wing… Edith Minturn Sedgwick was an American socialite, actress and fashion model, who become one of Andy Warhol’s superstars. Edie became known as “The Girl of the Year” in 1965 after starring in several of Warhol’s short films in the 1960s. She was considered an “It Girl”, while Vogue magazine also named her a “Youthquaker”.

In a way, Edie made me understand Andy Warhol, as I was mesmerised by the creature he had created in Edie Sedgwick and horrified by how easily he could discard them. Warhol was the flame and Edie and his other muses were the moths that got too close at their peril. Warhol was an underground art star and probably one of America’s most famous 20th century artists. His work continues to fascinate the public nowadays and is constantly reinterpreted anew. He maybe well known for his Coca-Cola Bottles, Soup cans and Marilyn Monroe, what maybe thought as superficial, but what Warhol was doing was holding a mirror to American culture.

Andy Warhol, Sixty Last Suppers, 1986 © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts Inc. by SIAE 2017. Photo by Rob McKeever.

He was almost an unfathomable enigma: charming, ruthless and cruel at the same time. He was a genius as he played the world of celebrity like a Stradivarius … anyone who was anyone wanted to be photographed with him at The Factory or at Studio 54. At the time, you hadn’t earn your 15 minutes of fame unless you were either one of his pieces of art or you had your photograph taken next to him in Studio 54. The Tate Modern have put together an outstanding exhibition with a selection of works by the iconic artist based in a concept that has never been displayed before, that is, how the artist’s own experiences help shaped his view of 20th century culture, providing visitors with a much deeper understanding of how Warhol’s mind worked. In the case of Edie, Truman Capote said that

Andy Warhol would like to have been Edie Sedgwick. He would like to have been a charming, well-born debutant from Boston. He would like to have been anybody except Andy Warhol.

No wonder. Born Andrew Warhola, he grew up in Pittsburgh to Carpatho-Rusyn parents who emigrated from a small village in the north-east of the former Czechoslovak Republic. Her mum was deeply religious, which affected Warhol’s sexuality, an important theme in this exhibition, showed in his early line drawings of male portraits and nudes from the 1950s.

The show is both bold and brave, beautifully curated. It shows key works from the Pop period, such as Marilyn Diptych 1962, Elvis I and II 1963/1964 and Race Riot 1964, which are examined in relation to contemporary issues around American culture and politics, while drive and limited ambition to push traditional boundaries of media are represented via his famous Screen tests 1964-4 and a recreation of the psychedelic multimedia environment of Exploding Plastic Inevitable 1966, originally produced for the Velvet Underground rock shows.

Marilyn Diptych by Andy Warhol (1962).

One of the rooms in the show is devoted to the largest grouping of his fascinating 1975 series Ladies and Gentlemen. Warhol created over 250 brightly-coloured portraits of New York’s African-American and Latinx drag queens and trans women. A private collection has lent 25 of these works for the first time in three decades, making it the largest and most significant presentation of the series ever shown in the UK. This incredible series was originally commissioned by Italian Art dealer Luciano Anselmino in 1974, at a time where the public were becoming more and more interested in gender fluidity following the untimely death of super star Candy Darling.

If this was not enough, this exhibition shows one of the most impressive pieces by Warhol, the huge 10-meter-wide canvas Sixty Last Suppers. The work was created in 1986 a few months before Warhol’s death, depicting six rows of ten silkscreen reproductions from Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper. This work illustrates how the themes of faith and mortality recur throughout the artist’s work. This is a once in a lifetime chance to see the work of one of the most fascinating artists of the 20th century under a completely new light.

www.tate.org.uk

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

(Opening image: Jorinde Voigt – Immersive Integral II)
Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. Istanbul.
Until 19th July

Sprawling for miles and miles, bridging the gap between two continents and thousands of years of history, Istanbul, once known as Constantinople, is one of the most evocative cities in the world, with an incredibly rich culture, influenced by the hundreds of peoples that have crossed this magical land.

The Istanbul Museum of Modern Art has invited ten artists from around the world to participate in an exciting new residency program, with the support of the Istanbul Development Agency (ISTKA), to celebrate the institution’s commitment to heritage and craft. The programme culminates in a six months exhibition, which opened in February. The Istanbul Museum of Modern Art was founded in 2004 as Turkey’s first museum of modern and contemporary art.

 

Faig Ahmed – Liquid Image courtesy of Faig Ahmed Studio Credit Sarvan Gadirov.

 

Devoted to sharing the nation’s artistic creativity and cultural identity with the local and international art worlds, it hosts a broad array of interdisciplinary activities. Istanbul Modern embraces a global vision to collect, preserve, display, and document works of modern and contemporary art, photography, design, architecture, new media and cinema. It acts as an intermediary in the sharing of Turkey’s cultural identity with the international art environment. It supports artists in their productions and their efforts to form international partnerships. Aspiring to make art accessible to all, Istanbul Modern provides education programs to art followers of all ages.

 

Outi Pieski – Cohkiideapmi Falling Shawls 2 images 2017.

 

This new international artist residency programme aims to unite Istanbul artisans with globally renowned artist in a unique cultural exchange. In a world where we have such global tension, I believe that incredible art projects like this will hopefully help heal old wounds and give us a better understanding and respect for each other’s cultures, at the same time bringing together wonderful artistic talent that can be appreciated, admired and adored globally. Jerusalem, Copenhagen, Mexico City, Baku… are all home cities to artists taking part in this residency programme, which promises to be one of the most fascinating and culturally diverse art events this year.

The impressive list of talent taking part in the programme includes Faig Ahmed (Baku), Rana Begum (London), Benji Boyadgian (Jerusalem), Rodrigo Hernández (Lisbon and Mexico City), Servet Koçyiğit (Amsterdam), Outi Pieski (Utsjoki and Numminen), Randi & Katrine (Copenhagen), Wael Shawky (Alexandria and Philadelphia), and Jorinde Voigt (Berlin).

 

Rana Begum – Baskets 2017 at Kettles Yard Cambridge UK Credit Pail Alitt.

 

Each of the artist are so different that it is impossible to praise one over the other; their styles very much unique, letting the personality of each of the artists shine through their work.
Istanbul Modern is also producing a series of short films recording the artists’ individual journeys and will compile and present an archival section as part of the exhibition. In conjunction with the show, the museum will be hold talks with the artists alongside educational workshops.

www.instabulmodern.org/en

Sign-up to our newsletter

To be the first one to receive our latest news, exclusive offers and gifts.

Tick the categories below that appeal to you:

Categories(Required)
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.