Culture

Passion and support for choreographic arts

The artistry will be glittering at the second edition of the Dance Reflections by Van Cleef & Arpels Festival, which runs in London from 12th March to 8th April at the Royal Ballet and Opera, Sadler’s Wells, South Bank Centre and Tate Modern.

Following on from the hugely successful inaugural event in 2022, this iteration of the festival created in partnership with the world-famous French luxury jewellery company features 15 dazzling shows from a whole gamut of different cultures.

Taking place at iconic venues in our capital city, Dance Reflections showcases artists who, in the words of Catherine Renier, President & CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, have specialised in, “Collaborations with prestigious partners, contributions to major choreographic events, support for emerging and touring artists…  These various commitments, in keeping with the values of creation, transmission and education dear to the Maison, all meet the same objective of celebrating contemporary choreographic art.”

Including repertory works, dance workshops, artist forums and awareness-raising initiatives, all emphasising the connections between dance heritage and modern choreography, the festival highlights imaginative ways in which dancers have evolved exciting new…

A tribute to the work of one of the fundamental figures of French Modernist painting

After three years in the making, the Amar Gallery is bringing to London Hélène de Beauvoir: The Woman Destroyed, a unique exhibition featuring paintings and works on paper from the 1950s to 1980s by this French artist, crucial to the feminist movement. Often overshadowed in the past by her older sister, Simone ­– the groundbreaking […]

The artistic encounter of two masters

Despite being separated in time by nearly 200 years, Sigmar Polke felt a deep admiration for Francisco de Goya. The show at Museo del Prado, Sigmar Polke. Affinities Revealed, explores how the Spanish master influenced the work of the German painter, after he saw for the first time Goya’s Time and the Old Women in […]

by Lavinia Dickson-Robinson

The BFI was founded in 1933 and the BFI National Archive in 1935. It is considered one of the largest collections of film and television in the world. It holds 180,000 fiction and non-fiction films and 750,000 television programmes; and is an inspiring resource for a new generation of young and talented British film makers. The collections held in the archives are a fascinating record of history, culture and the art of film making and TV production.

The team at the BFI, led by Head Curator Robin Baker and Head of Conservation Charles Fairall, are totally dedicated to finding and preserving lost film treasures, not only British film, but from all over the world. Using the latest preservation methods, the conservation team cares for a variety of obsolete formats so that future generations can enjoy the rich heritage of ours and indeed world cinema. Sadly, not all films survive. One of the most important films still missing is Alfred Hitchcock’s Mountain Eagle (1926) which is on the BFI’s ’75 most wanted’ list of lost British films. In 2012 the BFI undertook its largest restoration project to restore ‘the Hitchcock 9’, that is, Hitchcock’s surviving silent movies.

“Preserving films for the future is not just about looking after old movies,” explains Robin Baker. “One of the most rewarding aspects of our work is acquiring the best of contemporary British filmmaking and making sure that it is fully preserved. We live in a digital age, but digits are even more vulnerable than 35mm film. Persuading some filmmakers to donate copies of their work can be challenging, but we need to ensure that their films are safe 200 years from now. If we don’t get them into the archive, who knows what will survive in just a few decades.”

SOURCE CREDIT – BFI Nankin Road, Shanghai (1901).

The BFI has also beautifully restored footage filmed in China between 1900 and 1949, making them available to new audiences. An excellent example is the hugely successful project Around China With A Movie Camera. Some of these films may have never been seen in China as it was taken by a series of French and British film makers. Much of the unseen footage was taken by amateurs and early intrepid tourists. One of the most startling and beautiful restored pieces is the film Piccadilly (1929), staring Anna May Wong. In addition, the BFI restored one of the first films of China known to have survived anywhere in the world, Nankin Road, Shanghai, shot in 1901. Not seen for 113 years, a copy of this beautiful film was presented by HRH the Duke of Cambridge to Mr. Ren Zhonglun, Chairman and President of the Shanghai Film Group Co. Ltd and to Mr. Miao Xiaotian, President of the China Film Corporation. This alliance has now led to a landmark film Co-Production Treaty between China and the UK.

When asked about the fun part of the job, Robin Baker comments: “The most exciting part of my job is being in the position to give new life to old films. In 2015 we launched a huge online project called Britain on Film, making available thousands of films that tell the stories of the people and places of Britain. To date they have been watched by over 25 million people. I find it enormously rewarding that film heritage is enjoyed by so many people who want to discover more than just the latest feature films.”

SOURCE CREDIT – Picture depicting the film Blackmail (1929) by Alfred Hitchcock.

Another extremely exciting find was the discovery, in a chemists shop, of what was thought to have been lost to the nation forever: hundreds of Edwardian films of everyday life in the North and North West of England made bi pioneering filmmakers Mitchell and Kenyon. They would shoot footage of everyday life and then invite the people of the town they had filmed into a circus tent to watch the film footage. These films give us a unique insight into the past and potentially into our ancestors. The BFI Player allows anyone to watch some of the Archive’s film collection online; and thanks to the BFI’s Britain on Film project, over 7,500 films have been added over the past three years. There is an interactive map to click on towns and villages all over the UK, so you could end up watching films from where your family originally came from and God knows what you could discover!
The BFI Archives also contains a wealth of costume designs, such as those designed by Cecil Beaton for Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady and his designs for Vivien Leigh in Anna Karenina. It does not stop there, with 30,000 unpublished scripts, movie posters and so much more, it is an Aladdin’s cave of treasures.

Funding is a very important part of the BFI and its National Archives. Restoring film is expensive. The cost depends on whether it is black and white, colour, the conditions it’s in… so costs can vary enormously from £10,000 for a black and white 70 minutes feature up to £200,000 plus for a 2 hour Technicolor film. So funding is truly vital. John Paul Getty Jr was the single most important benefactor in the BFI’s history. By the time of his death in 2003, his generous donations had enabled the opening of a purpose-built conservation centre, as well as securing the BFI’s headquarters in London. In recognition to his generosity, the Archive is now called the BFI John Paul Getty Jr Conservation Centre.

SOURCE CREDIT – BFI The Pleasure Garden.

The BFI is a registered charity and funds its activities through a mix of Grant-in-Aid from the Department of Digital, Culture, Media and Sport and self-generated income through sponsorship and philanthropy, sales and distribution. Additionally, it gets funding from the National Lottery fund for film across the UK. Companies like IWC Schaffausen and American Express play a key role in helping the BFI finance their work, and enables it to be a leading light in film education, nurturing young and up and coming talent and giving generations to come a continual appreciation and inspirational journey of films from the past and into the future. One of the most glittering events organized to raise funds for the BFI to continue its work is the LUMINOUS gala, held by the BFI every two years, in partnership with IWC Schaffhausen.

This partnership has brought together some of the most recognised stars of stage, film, and TV. Luminous Champions include Dame Judy Dench, Lord Fellows, Tom Ford, Martin Scorsese, Sir Michael Caine, Dame Maggie Smith and the late Sir John Hurt to name but a few. This star studded event has helped raise hundreds of thousands of pounds. In 2015 they raised over 430,000 pounds net. This money financed the restoration and release of epic and powerful films such as Abel Gance’s Napoleon (1927) and Franz Osten’s Shiraz (1928). The nest LUMINOUS Gala will be held at the Guildhall on October 3rd 2017, on the eve of the Opening night of the 61st BFI London Film Festival. The evening will be hosted by Jonathan Ross with Tilda Swinton as guest speaker.

This is also the night that the second IWC Schaffhausen Filmmaker Bursary Award in association with BFI will be presented. This is an award aimed at nurturing the talent of the UK’s new and emerging film makers. Last year’s award went to Hope Dickson Leach, director of the thought-provoking film The Levelling, which premiered at the BFI Film Festival in 2016 and was released to great acclaim. This year’s shortlisted nominees are yet to be announced and the winner will be presented with the bursary at LUMINOUS by Oscar-winning Director Tom Hooper.

Meticulously restored by the BFI National Archive, Franz Osten´s Indian silent epic Shiraz (1928 ) will

SOURCE CREDIT – “British Film Institute” The Lodger.

screen at the Archive Gala of the 61st BFI London Festival in partnership with American Express on October 14th. This is a stunning piece of cinema, telling the love story of one on India’s most famous princesses, whose beauty inspired the Taj Mahal. The film will be performed live with a newly commissioned film score by the daughter of world famous Ravi Shankar, the multi Grammy-nominated Anoushka Shankar. In partnership with the British Council as part of the UK-India Year of Culture, the BFI plans that Shiraz can once more be shown in the beautiful country where it was originally filmed.
I’ve frequently heard the question ‘Why preserve movies?’ And my answer is always the same: how can we not preserve movies? The cinema is more than our culture – the cinema is us.

Martin Scorsese

As Official Partner of the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games, Longines was proud to welcome the Queen’s Baton to their boutique in London last Thursday August 16th.

Joining the Queens Baton Relay, Longines Ambassador of Elegance Simon Baker, along with Longines Vice President of Marketing Juan-Carlos Capelli, Louise Martin, President of the Commonwealth Games Federation and Ian Metcalfe, Chairman of Commonwealth Games England took part in the relay, bearing the baton which carries a message to the athletes from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. The baton travels through all the nations of the Commonwealth until the beginning of the Games in April 2018. The 2018 Commonwealth Games will be held on Australia’s beautiful Gold Coast from 4th to 15th April 2018, a place Simon Baker is more than familiar with.

The Queen’s Baton Relay began its journey in Buckingham Palace in March 1st and is now travelling through the 70 nations or territories of the Commonwealth, covering 230,000 km. The message it carries to the athletes from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will be read out at the Opening Ceremony of the Games.

 

Longines will work as Official Partner for timing, scoring and results for the 2018 Commonwealth Games and will be known as the Official Timekeeper of this large multi-sport event, as well as the Partner of Athletics (Track & Field), Gymnastics, Rugby Sevens and Table Tennis.

New York – Christie’s announces The Collection of Paul F. Walter will be auctioned across two days of live auctions on September 26-27 with a simultaneous online auction September 21-28. Paul Walter was known as a polymath and scholar, and through collecting and patronage – including leadership roles at MoMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art among others – he became one of New York’s most respected connoisseurs.

Comprised of 560 lots across a multitude of disciplines including Post-War & Contemporary art, photographs, prints, sculpture, English furniture and decorative art, and Indian Art – the items come from Walter’s Manhattan apartment and his Sag Harbor home. Estimates range from $1,000 to $1,200,000 and the whole collection is expected to realize in excess of $4.5 million total.
Laura Paulson, Vice Chairman of the Christie’s Americas Advisory Board, comments:

“What united Paul’s aesthetic was his true passion for collecting – and it was phenomenal. He would create highly personal environments with great attention to detail and beauty, and this translated into everything he brought into his life.”

A pair of George II walnut hall armchairs, after a design by William Kent, mid-18th century

 

The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche (1844-1900) is best known for his declaration that “God is dead”. These words appear in his allegorical master- piece Thus Spoke Zarathustra, a book in which he warned that even though many people no longer believed in Christianity, our moral system was still underpinned by moribund Christian notions of “good” and “evil”. It was thus imperative that we should rethink our values. Nietzsche foresaw a crisis in civilisation as the foundations of a moral system based on Christianity was collapsing. He correctly predicted that after him “there will be wars the like of which have never been seen on earth before”.

Nietzsche believed that life was inevitably about struggle and suffering. But he proposed that instead of trying to diminish pain and unhappiness, or try to avoid it, we should instead embrace strife and woe in order to overcome it. His idealised person, his Übermensch, or “Superman”, is a radical individualist who triumphs over obstacles and difficulties, who liberates himself or herself from religious dogma and secular “herd” mentalities, and who eternally strives to become a better and higher version of themselves. “What does not kill me makes me stronger” is one of his most enduring sayings, as his maxim: “Live Dangerously!” Get Over Yourself takes Nietzsche’s philosophy to understand our society, and takes our society to explain his philosophy. In our age of identity politics, therapy culture, safe spaces, religious fundamentalism, virtue signalling, Twitterstorms, public emoting, dumbing down, digital addiction and  the politics of envy, the book introduces Nietzsche’s philosophy by putting the man in our shoes.

The 21st century has seen the dawn of
the new digital age of hyper-connectivity, censorship on campuses, religious funda- mentalism and political populism against “the elites”. It’s an age in which Nietzsche’s ideas are acutely relevant. He was a radical individualist who scorned the base thinking of groups, who spurned resentment and ideologies. If Nietzsche railed against the “herd” mentality, lamenting the expansion of democracy in his own times, he would today be aghast at the incessant chatter of social media today. “O you poor devils in the great cities of the world, you gifted young men tormented by ambition who consider it your duty to pass some comment on everything that happens”, he wrote in 1881.

In an age of Twitterstorms and trolling,
his words on the dangers of mob-rule are pertinent. He had warned of the “lustful greed, bitter envy, sour vindictiveness” that characterised “mob pride”. He would have agreed that we needed “digital detox”, esteeming as he did quiet and solitude.

“Live dangerously” is a declaration that students of today with their “safe spaces” and books with “trigger warnings” would do well to take heed. Nietzsche wrote about the aggressive morality of self- proclaimed victims, which we should bear in mind when people complain about being “offended” and their feelings being “hurt”, and demand censorship as recompense.

Author: Julia Pasarón

Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849) is widely regarded as one of Japan’s most famous and influential artists. He produced works of astonishing quality right up until his death at the age of 90.

 

Clear day with a southern breeze (‘Red Fuji’) from Thirty-six Views of Mt Fuji. Colour woodblock, 1831.

“From the age of six, I had a penchant for copying the form of things, and from about fifty, my pictures were frequently published; but until the age of seventy, nothing I drew was worthy of notice.”

Hokusai’s postscript to One Hundred Views of Mt Fuji, vol. 1, 1834.

 

Born in Edo (present-day Tokyo), Hokusai is best known for his woodblock print series Thirty-six Views of Mt Fuji (c.1831) which includes the internationally renown The Great Wave off Kanagawa. It was this series, specifically The Great Wave print and Fine Wind, Clear Morning, that secured Hokusai’s fame both in Japan and overseas.

Under the wave off Kanagawa (The Great Wave) from Thirty-six views of Mt Fuji. Colour woodblock, 1831.

This exhibition leads the visitor on an artistic journey through the last 30 years of Hokusai’s life – a time when he produced some of his most memorable masterpieces. Living in Edo with his daughter artist Ōi, Hokusai painted ceaselessly right up to his death.

Dragon in rain clouds. Hanging scroll, ink and colour on paper, 1849.

Throughout the exhibition, outstanding examples of Hokusai’s work show the artist’s creative breadth and depth. A selection of superb landscapes is introduced with the iconic Great Wave; intimate domestic scenes capture fleeting moments in private lives; exquisite depictions of flora and fauna display an innate skill in representing the natural world. The artist’s imagination is given full rein in the portrayal of supernatural creatures such as ghosts and deities. All of these works give us an insight into Hokusai’s personal beliefs, spiritual and artistic quest of his later years.

The exhibition includes prints, paintings and illustrated books, many of which are on loan from Japan, Europe, and the USA. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see these extraordinary works together.

HOKUSAI: Beyond the Great Wave
British Museum
Until August 13th

Supported by the Mitsubishi Corporation

 

 

 

The Manufacture Girard-Perregaux has chosen to associate with the seventh edition of the famous Only Watch auction dedicated to research on neuromuscular diseases. Held under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, Only Watch is a major charity auction event for which Girard-Perregaux has created a one-of-a-kind interpretation of the famous Laureato.The Manufacture Girard-Perregaux has chosen to associate with the seventh edition of the famous Only Watch auction dedicated to research on neuromuscular diseases. Held under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, Only Watch is a major charity auction event for which Girard-Perregaux has created a one-of-a-kind interpretation of the famous Laureato.

An iconic model born in the 1970s, the Laureato has now been revived in the form of an extremely coherent collection presented at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in January 2017. The formidable success encountered by this reinterpreted line has confirmed the aptness of its design as well as the avant-garde nature of the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture.
Based on the natural aura of this inspired and timeless design, as well as its ability to embody values cherished as much by the up-and-coming generation as by this Maison founded in 1791, the company management has chosen to donate a strictly one-of-a-kind version of the Laureato to ONLY WATCH 2017.

The art of daring to be uniqueThe Laureato exclusively offered for bidding at ONLY WATCH, representing an extrapolation of a line of contemporary products with a powerful identity, is a distinctive and ideally proportioned watch. Ensuring a pleasant feel on the wrist with its substantial 42 mm diameter and a thickness of just 10.16 mm, this model loyal to the original spirit of its watchmaking legend is attired on this occasion in a case made of bronze – a noble, artistic and firmly on-trend material – teamed with a chocolate brown alligator leather strap.

This marvellously balanced timepiece with its contemporary casual chic style, thus issued in a one-off edition, is destined to epitomise the generosity of a true aesthete. Exuding an innate power stemming from noble refinement, this model draws its strength from the values that shape the creations bearing the Girard-Perregaux. Unique in terms of its destination, it embodies through its sporting and elegant lines the very essence of the standards of excellence upheld by the Manufacture that has brought it to life.

Laureato Only Watch 2017 Special Edition
Technical Specifications

Case Material: bronzeDiameter: 42 mmThickness: 10.88 mmGlass: glare-proofed sapphire crystalCase-back: sapphire, transferred Only Watch inscriptionDial: slate greyHands: baton-type, enhanced with luminescent substance Water Resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM, 3 bar)
MovementReference: GP01800-0008, mechanical self-windingDiameter: 30 mm (13¼’’’)  Thickness: 3.97 mmFrequency: 28 800 vph. (4 Hz)Number of components: 191Jewels: 28Power reserve: 54 hoursFunctions: hours, minutes, sweep-seconds hand, date StrapLeather strap: chocolate brown alligator leather with topstitchingClasp: titanium triple folding clasp
Reference: 81010-35-1734BBBA

About Girard-Perregaux Girard-Perregaux is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer that traces its origins to 1791. The history of the Brand is marked by legendary watches that combine sharp design with innovative artisanship such as the renowned Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, presented by Constant Girard-Perregaux in 1889 at the Paris Universal Exhibition, where it was awarded a gold medal.

With more than 90 registered patents, Girard-Perregaux is devoted to the creation of state-of-the-art Haute Horlogerie and is one of the few watchmakers to unite all the skills of design and manufacture under the same roof — including the forging of the “heart” of the watch, the movement. In 2013, Girard-Perregaux received numerous prizes for its groundbreaking Constant Escapement L.M. timepiece, including the most prestigious one: The Aiguille d’Or of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.Girard-Perregaux is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories, which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands.

www.girard-perregaux.com

One of the most unique experiences that London has to offer in the summer time is Masterpiece, where the finest antiquities, ancient and contemporary art, jewellery and design from all over the world come together under one roof.

Agnews-Proserpine by Rosetti

The main space feels grand and spacious, the nude colour shades decor and flower arrangements give a serene, elegant and peaceful atmosphere. I swooned around, feeling inspired and at times touched by the exquisite artefacts on display. It’s pure joy to zig zag from one beautiful curated stand to another. This year I visited the fair 3 times and in each of them I discovered a new gem. That is what I love the most, learning about a new gallery or brand I have never heard of. This year, there was a large-scale neon fluorescent installation which I found hypnotising: the Impenetrable Room by the renowned artist Iván Navarro. Another work of art that took my breath away was Rossetti’s Proserpine (1878), by brought to Masterpiece by Agnews.

Stoppenbach & Delestre at Masterpiece London

The fair showcased some of the world’s foremost dealers and specialists with exhibitors including: Robin Katz Fine Art, Offer Waterman & Co, Perrin Fine Art, Galerie G. Sarti, Tomasso Brothers Fine Art, Richard Green, Colnaghi, Van Cleef & Arpels, David Aaron, Stoppenbach & Delestre, Dickinson, Wallace Chan, Thomas Gibson Fine Art, Axel Vervoordt, Agnew’s, Hazlitt Holland-Hibbert, Rupert Wace Ancient Art, Hemmerle, New Art Centre, Osborne Samuel, Tornabuoni, Steinitz and Robilant + Voena, amongst others.

After a long tour, the only thing left to do is visit one of the in-house restaurants; a sip of Perrier-Jouët and a bite at Scott’s or Caprice.  With so much beauty around, one needs a little break, or two. I always think of the hard work that goes on backstage, not only for the organisers but for the exhibitors too; months of meticulous planning, dealing with complicated logistical export and import issues to get their most precious and valuable stock to and from the fair, the large manpower needed, the long hours … not to mention the huge costs involved. It’s a big investment to make for any brand, and all for one week worth of exposure.

Ludorff at Masterpiece London

The fair attracts a global UHNW audience, international institutions, private collectors, buyers, connoisseurs, the curious, the media and the famous. It is and an incredible opportunity for a business to showcase what they do best to a desirable target audience.  If you start thinking about the astronomical rents in key areas for fine goods and arts such as Bond Street, where galleries are quiet and empty for the most part of the year, then suddenly it starts making sense. The fair is busy every day, with a constant flow of visitors coming through the stands. Moreover,  the fair is open until 9 pm during weekdays and 7 pm at weekends, something that sadly often goes amiss elsewhere in the capital.

Paul Kasmin Gallery at Masterpiece London

However, selling is not the only focus. The exhibitors understand the value of making you a fan of what they do and so, they share with visitors brand talks, tales about their founders, anecdotes from he past and passionate descriptions of their finest pieces. Whether you are visiting a large or a small gallery, you can count on an excellent customer journey and service. It is very pleasing to have found out that on closing day, Masterpiece confirmed they drew a record of 44,000 visitors and declared strong sales across all disciplines.

www.masterpiecefair.com

Artist Day-z grew up in London and studied Fine Art at Central St Martins. She combines techniques learned from the classical masters with current culture to create a signature style that fuses street style with fine art. Using pen and pencil to create intricate and exquisite drawings, Day-z’s unique talent speaks to a growing audience of followers and collectors.

Day-z is represented by leading London and International Galleries, and has exhibited in shows from Chicago to Switzerland and Salzburg. Some of Day-z’s more mischievous antics include sticking up pieces in the Tate Modern and taking on parking wardens across the world with her celebrated ‘Parking Ticket’ sticker (available as a limited edition print).

ParkingTicket by Day-z

Her debut solo show, ‘BRANDED’ in collaboration with the multinational financial and government firm, Ashurst LLP, was named as one of London’s most exciting exhibitions by the Young Art Prize. Day-z also holds ‘The People’s Choice Award’ by the Derwent Art Prize for her piece ‘London Riots’ and has been named as one of the top 9 upcoming artists to watch out for by After Nyne Magazine.

Her most recent solo show entitled ‘Re-Branded’, took place last May in the Cyprus capital, Nicosia. This exhibition re-questioned the effect of brands and how they make us feel. The exhibition was sponsored by KPMG and revealed unseen pieces by the artist for the first time.
Following Banksy’s style, Day-z keeps her identity secret so no face to face interview with this young artist, just a Q&A via email.

Q: How old are you and where are you from?
A: I’m 27 and I am from London. I am British-born, and of Cypriot heritage.

Q: Is art the only thing you ever wanted to do?
A: Art was the only option for me.

Q: What did happen that led you to create your parking ticket sticker?
A: My dad kept on getting parking tickets and it was only when I got my first parking ticket on my 21st birthday that I had the light bulb moment to create the Parking Ticket piece.

Q: Where from do you draw your inspiration?
A: I draw my inspiration from anywhere although my best ideas come when lying on the beach

Q: How do you look into the future as a woman and as an artist?
A: Only recently have women become as recognised and successful as men in the art world and I’d like to continue to grow and be a part of this new era.

Beautiful Crime will be doing a solo show with Day-z this autumn in London. I wonder if maybe she will finally reveal her identity…

The Rise Of Young Talent

We live in a wonderful time. Easier access to education and information has facilitated the development of unimaginable amounts of young talent. I-M has selected two artists from very different backgrounds who have devoted themselves to very different fields to be featured in this issue. We hope you find them as inspiring as we do.

As a kid, Filip was told by a teacher that drawing wouldn’t take him anywhere because “art has not tangible value, Filip”. Well, at the tender age of 26, he is already an internationally recognized artist and winner of the Best Work in Silver at the Gilded Youth Project Awards organized by the Royal College of Art.

Soft-spoken, humble, and terribly likable, Filip Palmén was born in Southern Sweden in 1990 and raised in the countryside. His grandfather was an engineer but also a painter. Filip has an easy smile, which he displays when sharing with us some of those memories: “He could make a realistic drawing of anything you’d ask him for. I used to ask him to draw something and I’d watch him, then I’d take his drawing, trace it and add things myself. I’ve always been allowed my artistic side, I’ve been encouraged from home, but I think the environment outside my home hasn’t been as accepting. I studied really hard and got top grades in high-school, just because I was convinced by school that if you didn’t you wouldn’t be able to make anything of yourself. A teacher once caught me sketching in physics class in secondary high-school and he made an example of me in front of the class. “Drawing won’t get you anywhere!” he said and convinced us all that art doesn’t have any tangible value. I wish he could see where my drawing has taken me. I wish I could tell my grandfather”.

Metal Rings by Fillip Palmén.

Filip Palmén spent a year in Japan as an exchange student in his teens. It was after his return to Sweden that he felt an urge to devote himself and pursue his dreams to become an artist. Over the years, he has studied art forms that somehow relate to the body, the main motivation being able to create something that can be worn. He chose to do an MA degree in jewellery at the Royal College of Art in London, to utilize the medium’s ability to connect sculpture to the body. Now graduated, Filip is working multidisciplinary in his studio in Stockholm to launch his next jewellery project.

Palmén’s aesthetic has changed from literal to more figurative over the past few years, and this has come with a bigger emphasis on presentation. By combining analogue with digital techniques, he creates a virtual imagery to realize his ideas. The jewellery is all made by Filip from very traditional means: carving, casting, soldering and welding, while the pieces themselves tend to be more expressional than classical fine jewellery.

 

He explains,

“It’s about charging the jewellery with value, turning it into more than adornment and providing the wearer with a deeper connection.”

 

By exploiting the lesser boundaries of virtual reality he is allowed to not only expand on, but to visualize his inner world to the viewer. Palmén aims to continue making jewellery pieces that are tied into his augmented reality using sculpture, additional music collaborations and videos.

Palmén explains: “I consciously distance myself from the spotlight shone on my creations. If I stand in the light right next to them the viewer is not given the same chance to see them for what they are or what I have meant them to be. I want my creations to exist without me in the picture, to let them appear in the same manner they do when I experience them in my head. It’s similar to how some musicians chose to hide their identities behind masks on stage when performing: they let the music speak for itself and they become the music rather than making their individual selves the main part of the show.”

Filip Palmén.

When asked about other influences in his art he confesses to be strongly influenced by music, “I’ve always been greatly influenced by the music I listen to and this probably contributed to my take on artist v. individual. Obviously Kiss was doing this long ago, but to me Daft Punk and The Knife are more relevant. Actually, I’ve been listening to both since their first releases. Today I’m drawn to more obscure music. Some of the artists I follow even use symbols that can’t be typed on a keyboard just to make it harder to find them online. Visually I’ve always looked at classical sculptors like Rodin, but I am also very interested in contemporary sculptors that focus on the use of the body, such as Berlinde De Bruyckere or Anthony Gormley.”

“At the end of high-school I realized I couldn’t pursue a well paid job just for the sake of making money. I felt I had been suppressing myself and I wasn’t going to anymore. After high-school and a year of preparatory art-school, I did my BA in Konstfack in Stockholm. Immediately after that I started an MA at the Royal College of Art in London. I graduated in summer 2016”.

After the success of his first work, one may think he could have given himself sometime off and to look for new sources of inspiration; but Palmén is tenacious and tireless in his work, “The past half a year I’ve had an idea for a project, but wasn’t sure by what means or where I could make it reality. It is an extension and development of the ideas and techniques I have featured in my work in the past year. It’s based on the concept of overcoming suppression by overcoming oneself, seeing what forms bind us and how to break them. I am working on presenting this as a metaphorical journey inside the mind, so a lot of effort is being put into the presentation itself. At the moment I’m having discussions with my friend and sound producer SMNM, to make sure the audio resonates the narrative.

Things are definitely moving in the right direction for Filip Palmén. He has secured a studio for two years and signed a contract with another retailer. Long gone are the days of high school, where he didn’t fit and was made feel awkward and insecure. He points up how at that time his appearance became part of his individuality, a way to express himself. “I still use my appearance to differentiate myself from my surroundings, as a sort of reminder, and I do get reminders!: I’ll just put something on that

I think looks really smart and ride the bus. People will tell me I look weird, that I look awesome, that I look like a f*cking faggot or that my parents must regret having had me. But my parents regrette rien about me and the whole thing is actually more of a reminder to myself to not be afraid of showing who I am or what I feel. No one should, and I’d like to show people that with what I do”.

Sign-up to our newsletter

To be the first one to receive our latest news, exclusive offers and gifts.

Tick the categories below that appeal to you:

Categories(Required)
This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.