Raven Smith curates a witty, gripping library for London’s newest literary-minded hotel
There is an exciting new chapter about to begin at Templeton Garden. To mark its official opening this month, the newly launched luxury lifestyle hotel from Miiro has forged a literary partnership with Raven Smith.
The very popular author and American Vogue columnist is presenting a specially curated selection of his best-loved books for guests and locals to enjoy. The project speaks volumes for the literary ambitions of Templeton Garden, which is located in a part of London with very strong bookish traditions.
The bespoke edit, entitled “Templeton Garden x Raven Smith,” includes such gripping novels as Don’t Look Now by Daphne Du Maurier, Alex Garland’s The Beach, Jurassic Park by Michael Crichton and Patricia Highsmith’s The Talented Mr Ripley.
The collection also features Smith’s own witty novels Trivial Pursuits and Men, which The Observer called, “Wise, sharp and naughty”.
Left: Raven Smith with a few of the books carefully selected for this imitative at Templeton Garden.Right: The cosy library at Templeton Garden A snug, where armchairs and quiet corners beckon you to settle in and lose hours in a good story.
A life-affirming portrait of the artist’s wondrous 70-year career
David Hockney 25, the largest ever exhibition of the peerless British artist’s work, is having a profound effect on its visitors. One critic has written that the show left him in tears. The exhibition, which runs at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, underscores Hockney’s status as one of the greatest artists of the last […]
Whatever it takes to be an opera star these days, walking on stilts isn’t a widely recognised requirement. Nor is dressing up as a gorilla. But they’re useful sidelines for Aigul Akhmetshina, who has done both in her meteorically ascendant, if still young career. Modern stage directors ask a lot from singers: you can find […]
As a kid I loved writing and receiving postcards. Whether it was me the one away on a holiday or my friends or relatives, it was always exciting to receive those colourful cards sent from exotic destinations usually full of joyful words.
Wish You Were Here celebrates the crucial role the humble postcard has played in connecting people for over 150 years. What is not very well known is postcards came to exist and become so very popular. In 1840, a postal reform in the UK unified the cost of domestic mail to 1 penny per envelope, to be prepaid by the sender. The proposal also included that the pre-payment was to be made by issuing printed sheets of adhesive stamps.
The Penny Black, the world’s first adhesive postage stamp, made its debut in May that same year. Fast forward a couple of decades to the Karlsruhe postal conference of 1865, where Heinrich von Stephan (general post director for the German empire) proposed the creation of offenes Postblatt (open post-sheets). The goal was to simplify the etiquette of the letter format and to reduce the work, paper and costs involved when sending a short message. It was him who suggested to use an envelope-sized rigid card on which one could write and could be mailed just like that, with the postage pre-printed.
The Penny Black was the world’s first adhesive postage stamp used in a public postal system…
Von Stephan’s idea didn’t take in Germany but in Austria-Hungary it was a different story. Dr Emanuel Herrmann, a professor of Economics, suggested a more efficient way for short messages rather than the time-consuming classic letter. The Austrian Post loved his idea and created the Correspondenz-Karte, a light-brown 8.5x12cm rectangular card with space for the address on the front, and room for a short message on the back. The postcard featured an imprinted 2 Kreuzer stamp on top right corner, costing half the price of a normal letter. The postcard was born in 1869.
Britain adopted it just one year later, as a method to offer faster correspondence for everyone. So popular was this informal and cheap mode of correspondence that by 1910 over 800 million postcards a year were sent in Britain – they were the text messages of their day. Postcards were used to send secret messages of love, to boost morale for soldiers at war and to boast from holidays near and afar, many becoming treasured collectors’ items.
Wish You Were Here reveals how postcard design has always responded to the times and includes apposite reflections on separation and the basic human need to connect, including postcards used in contemporary cultural responses to the Covid-19 pandemic.
Highlights of the exhibition include:
Postcards as art: Reflected in the work of London-based artist Peter Liversidge, who has created four new concepts printed using letterpress onto postcards. One of these cards is given to all visitors to the exhibition, who can then choose whether to send them using the museum’s postbox, keep them as a collector’s item, or display them at home as a memento of their visit.
London Love Story: A display of early 20th century illustrated postcards sent from Harry to his sweetheart Olive, despite them both living near each other in Battersea. Apparently there is a secret meaning in the way a stamp is positioned in a card. Harry hid messages of love using this trick. The museum has discovered that after years of correspondence this young couple married in 1914 but sadly a few years later, Harry was killed in action in France, in 1917.
Parliament Square: An installation by artist and postcard collector Guy Atkins documents with postcards how this iconic site has changed over the years. The postcards are invested with different meanings depending on their use and messages. The display includes tourist’s postcards and political activism, with quotes Guy selected from Nelson Mandela, Benjamin Disraeli and Virginia Woolf.
Has the postcard got a future?: Visitors are invited to reflect on whether the postcard is still relevant in the modern age of constant instant communication or whether it will undergo a revival, as people reclaim the emotional and personal connection a postcard can deliver. For me there is no question. I believe we are starting to see the decline of a decade marked by sensorial depravation and as we recover the pleasure of using as many of our senses as possible in everything we do, things like writing postcards will be fashionable again.
Wish You Were Here: 151 Years of the British Postcard 20th May 2021 – 2nd January 2022 Postal Museum. 15-20 Phoenix Place London WC1X 0DA Admission included in the ticket price for The Postal Museum. Tickets include 1x ride on Mail Rail and unlimited access to their exhibitions for a year at no extra cost.
The V&A is bringing to life the wonderful adventures of Alice, the girl who fell down a rabbit hole into a fantasy world populated by all kinds of peculiar and anthropomorphic creatures. Exploring its origins and reinventions over the 158 years since it was first published, this landmark exhibition offers an immersive journey through Alice’s Wonderland.
Over 300 objects spanning film, performance, fashion, art, music and photography, have been brought together to fully explore the cultural impact of Alice and her ongoing inspiration for leading creatives, from Salvador Dalí to The Beatles. Designed by award-winning Tom Piper – best known for his stage designs for the Royal Shakespeare Company and his Tower of London poppies installation
– the exhibition rewards “curiouser and curiouser” visitors with secret doors and interactive displays. Beginning with a descent into the V&A’s subterranean Sainsbury Gallery via an interpretation of the famous rabbit hole, the first section of the exhibition, Creating Alice, traces Alice’s origins in Victorian Oxford, uncovering the people, politics and places that inspired Lewis Carroll, including original drawings by his friend, John Tenniel.
A mind-bending visual experience will take place at a Mad Hatter’s tea party, brought to life through psychedelic and playful digital projections…
Mad Hatter costume designed by Colleen Atwood for Tim Burton’s 2010 adaptation of Alice in Wonderland, worn by Johnny Depp (c) 2010 Disney.
Filming Alice covers the creative development of Alice on screen throughout the 20th and 21st centuries from the earliest film based on the books in 1903, to Walt Disney’s version and Tim Burton’s 2010 blockbuster. Reimagining Alice celebrates reinventions of Wonderland by Salvador Dalí, Yayoi Kusama, Max Ernst and Peter Blake as well as the music of The Beatles. A mind-bending visual experience will take place at a Mad Hatter’s tea party, brought to life through psychedelic and playful digital projections.
Staging Alice explore the popularity of the books among the performing arts, with customes from international productions alongside the National Theatre’s wonder.land, which explored the boundaries of online and offline, as well as Bob Crowley’s towering costume for the Queen of Hearts from the Royal Ballet’s 2011 production.
Alice at the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, Illustration for Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland by John Tenniel, 1865 (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
The final section Being Alice analyses the modern-day fascination and reinvention of Alice in Wonderland across art, science and popular culture. It features fashion collections from Iris van Herpen and Viktor & Rolf, photo- graphs of political protests, album artwork for Little Simz, and Japanese sub-culture fashion. The exhibition closes with a newly commissioned “through the looking glass-inspired” digital art installation.
ALICE: CURIOUSER AND CURIOUSER The Sainsbury Gallery. V&A London. Until 31st December 2021
This colourful account of the history of nightclub design is a perfect exhibition with which to reopen the V&A Dundee. Nightclubs and dancehalls are precious cultural spaces that often play a pivotal role in our lives. Night Fever explores the relationship between club culture design, looking at how this has changed from Italy in the 1960s right through to everyone’s living rooms today with the online streaming of club nights.
So boys and girls, get out your glitter ball, squeeze into your shocking pink satin disco trousers (admit it, you have a pair in your closet) and let your imagination fly back to the Bee Gees.
These were the days of Studio 54, with “dream-maker” Andy Warhol weaving his magic wand of fame and Bianca Jager arriving on a white horse. It may because of the social austerity of the last year, but never an exhibition had got me this excited. Think making out with John Travolta or Barry Gibb under the flashing light of the dance floor, strutting your stuff to the beat of “Saturday Night Fever”.
Nightclubs are spaces for adventure and escape…
Discotheque Flash Back. Borgo San Dalmazzo (1972).
Nightclubs are spaces for adventure and escape, spaces that encourage experimental and radical design, from New York’s Studio 54 to Manchester’s Haçienda or Ministry of Sound II in London. They are an example of a 360 degrees design exercise employing architecture, art, fashion, graphics, lighting, performance and sound to create an immersive sensory experience where design, music and technology meet on the dancefloor.
From Italy to New York, Paris, Manchester, London, Beirut and Berlin, this exhibition charts how nightclub design has changed and developed over the decades. There is even a section on Scotland’s unique and distinct club culture, including legendary club nights in Aberdeen, Dundee, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Paisley, investigating how the Scottish club scene holds closer ties to the music and influences of Chicago, Detroit and Europe than London clubs.
Other clubs from around the world featured in the show include The Electric Circus, New York (1967), Space Electronic, Florence (1969), B018, Beirut (1998) and The Mothership, Detroit (2015) among many others.
Dance floor at Xenon, New York (1979). Bill Bernstein.
The show celebrates these critical cultural spaces at an especially important moment, a year on from the first coronavirus lockdown, when we all look to a brighter future where everyone can come back together, dance and enjoy shared public experiences once again.
So yes Sir, I can boogie, I can boogie, boogie woogie all night long.
Night Fever: Designing Club Culture V&A Dundee. 1 Riverside Esplanade, Dundee DD1 4EZ 1st May to 9th January 2022.
Maison Chaumet opens the doors of its newly restored hôtel particulier in the 1st arrondissement of Paris to unveil an exhibition that commemorates the bicentenary of the Emperor’s death, looking back on the highlights of his life with Empress Joséphine. Chaumet was founded in 1780 by Marie- Étienne Nitot, whose jewellery was adored by the French aristocracy and later, by Napoléon and his court. In 1802, Chaumet became the official jeweller of the Emperor.
In fact, the jewellery for his wedding to Joséphine de Beauharnais and later to Marie Louise de Habsburg-Lorraine was created by Nitot. He designed and set Napoleon’s coronation crown, the hilt of his sword as well as many other pieces for the court. During the Empire, Napoleon sought to limit Italian imports, and so founded a school of hardstone carving.
These cameos and intaglios, usually featuring classical figures, were sent to Paris where the jeweler Nitot mounted many of them on parures for the imperial family. Empress Joséphine, who was a keen follower of fashion, owned a number of them. The nicolo agate intaglios in the set below are ringed with gold and pearls. The ones in the necklace, each with a pendant alternate with pearl-studded palmettes, a motif characteristic of the Empire period in Nitot’s works.
Parure by Nitot (c. 1809) for Empress Joséphine in gold, silver, nicolo agate and natural pearls (Chaumet Collection)…
For this Year of Napoléon, Chaumet, as imperial jeweller, is the only private participant to be invited to take part in the celebrations alongside prestigious institutions such as the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, the Musée de l’Armée and the Archives Nationales. Curated by Pierre Branda, an historian specialising in the Consulate and the First Empire, Head of Heritage for the Fondation Napoléon, and author of the reference work Joséphine, le Paradoxe du Cygne, this new exhibition presents more than 150 examples of jewellery, paintings, works of art, correspondence and illustrated documents, all of which help to bring to life the exceptional love story of this legendary couple.
The high points of their relationship are recounted through an installation that gives pride of place to sentiment and implicitly evokes the history of the Maison. The listed Salon Chopin overlooking Place Vendôme focuses on the Parisian start to this romance in the Directory and Consulate periods, before reliving the coronation, the moment when the imperial couple was at its zenith.
The salon Chopin focuses on the start of the romance between Napoléon and Joséphine.
Joséphine was a leading figure in fashion and style, owning a magnificent wardrobe. Besides the special parures in diamonds and precious stones used only for formal occasions and ceremonies, the empress had many “day” sets in coloured gemstones that were simpler and lighter to wear, for less official use. The below malachite parure, attributed to Nitot (c. 1810) is typical of the Empire style, alternating palmettes in pearls with chased gold and malachite cameos of Greek gods.
Pieces are drawn from the historical collection of Maison Chaumet, but also include loans from private collectors – such as the incomparable Royal Danish Collection, the Collection NBC Bruno Ledoux and the Collection Françoise Deville – as well as from cultural institutions including the Fondation Napoléon, the Musée du Louvre, the Château de Fontainebleau, the Musée National des Châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Préau, the Musée Masséna in Nice, the Musée Carnavalet and the Fondation Dosne-Thiers.
This rare set includes a tiara, pins, necklace, brooch, pendant bracelets and a belt (Fondation Napoléon)…
The show also covers Joséphine’s story, her personality and private life, as well as the couple’s public persona. A true formidable woman, she sacrificed her love in the interest of France and agreed to divorce Napoléon so the Emperor could remarry in the hope of having an heir. The divorce ceremony took place on 10th January 1810 and was a grand solemn social occasion, in which each read a statement of devotion to the other. Napoléon insisted Josephine retained the title of empress.
JOSÉPHINE & NAPOLÉON, AN (EXTRA)ORDINARY STORY Chaumet Hôtel. 12, Place Vendôme. Paris. Until 18th July 2021
Samantha Andretti (played by Valentina Bellè) reappears 15 years after being kidnapped. While she is recovering in hospital, a celebrated psychiatrist (Dustin Hoffman) tries to help her deal with her trauma while terminally ill detective Bruno Genko (Toni Servillo) makes it his last mission to find the vicious psychopath that has been terrorising the area for decades.
The move is earie from the word “go”. The kidnapped woman describes an extremely disturbing life while she was in captivity, which included sorting out a Rubik’s cube style labyrinth that prompts her to play utterly wicked games in exchange for having her most basic needs met: food, water, clothes… as the years go by, so the stakes of the game rise to the point where Samantha has to allow for someone else’s death to secure her survival.
Dustin Hoffman plays Dr Green, a psychiatrist trying to find the criminal who kidnapped Samantha 15 years ago…
While Dr Green (Dustin Hoffman) is trying to heal her much battered mind and soul, Bruno Genko is out there determined to find the psycho behind. His search leads him to a strange rabbit figure (trust me, you’ll never think bunnies are cute after this) that seems to be the key to the mysterious kidnappings; as well as an old comic called “Bunny” that hides satanic imagery.
Things get even more scary when Linda (she is very close to Genko) appears brutally murdered at her place. I won’t say anymore except that I’ve never felt so uneasy watching a movie since Saw. The movie is directed and adapted by the author of the original novel, Donator Carrisi, who made his directorship debut with The Girl in the Fog a few years ago.
Although in my opinion at times the narration feels a bit confusing and the climax doesn’t measure to expectations, Carrisi masters the art of suspense with a cinematography that verges on the surreal (a bit like David Lynch’s).
Samantha Andretti (Valentina Bellè) was kept captive in a labyrinth-like basement for 15 years.
The photography is exceptional, with heavy use of colour to create a grotesque atmosphere that aligns with the movie’s script.
Leading Cast: Dustin Hoffman, Toni Servillo, Valentina Bellè, Caterina Shulha. Director: Donato Carrisi. Rating: 15 Distributor: Darkland Distribution. Into The Labyrinth is available on DVD & Digital download from 19th April and can be pre-ordered here Digital Download Platforms: iTunes, Amazon, Google, Sky, Virigin Media, BT & Rakuten.
Caroline de Wolfe is the owner of Felix de Wolfe, the longest established independent entertainment and literary agency in the United Kingdom. Her father, Felix de Wolfe started it in 1947 and never looked back. In 2004, after almost two decades “learning the job” Caroline took over and with her progressive approach and a team full of talent, she has kept the agency at the forefront of the industry.
Our Editor Julia Pasarón had the chance to speak to Caroline a few weeks ago to talk about the evolution of the industry in the last decades, the dangers of social media and why we need a storm of angels.
I-M: How did you learn the business? C.dW: From the ground up. My father insisted that I do a typing course over the summer and I started in the agency as a receptionist. I must admit I was a bit taken aback as my focus was solely on becoming an agent, but my father explained that if I was ever to run the agency and understand the issues that employees would encounter I would only be able to support them fully if I’d done their job myself.
After a year, I started doing more of the general typing in the office and became my dad’s PA. Subsequently, after five years of learning about the business, he agreed that I should start going to drama schools with a view to taking on my first clients. It was a long road but my father was absolutely right. As the MD of the company it’s really important to be able to put yourself in other people’s shoes, and you can only do that if you’ve walked in them.
I-M: Over your career, which are the biggest changes you have seen in the industry?
C.dW: Without a doubt, technology. Right across the board. When I started, we had filing cabinets full of clients’ headshots. We had to go to the post office every day with a stack of mail. Every client suggestion we made for a job had to be typed, attached to the actor’s headshot and CV and then posted. Now it is all done by email. Actors can self-tape and then upload to our data- base so we can share with relevant parties; and during lockdown, a lot of auditions and meetings have happened over Zoom and Teams.
Actually, thanks to technology, it’s been possible to keep the flame of theatre from being extinguished altogether over the last year. Many theatre companies and producers have made their existing work available to watch online, including The National Theatre, RSC, Almeida, Royal Court, Royal Exchange Manchester and National Theatre of Scotland, while others have been rehearsing and streaming new productions online such as Leicester Curve’s production of Sunset Boulevard and Metcalfe Gordon’s production of Romeo & Juliet for which the cast filmed in a green screen studio and were then digitally placed on a stage in post production, so technology has also meant increased accessibility for everyone.
Many well known actors as well as emerging talent joined forces with Bookstreamz to support the NHS.
Furthermore, it’s meant that theatres who are fighting for survival have been in a position to stream productions online to raise much needed funds for their future, such as Queen’s Theatre Hornchurch, Hull Truck and Oldham Coliseum’s production of The Hired Man.
Social Media has also had a major influence on the industry, from the way in which people have direct access to industry folk and vice versa, to the importance placed on an artist’s social media following on these platforms when assessing how appealing they might be for a particular production. However, the industry itself hasn’t fundamentally changed. At its core it has always been and it will always be about storytelling. The difference is how you package it and deliver it to an audience.
I-M: What about accessibility to jobs for actors from ethnic minorities, disabled or LGBTQIA?
C.dW: The industry has improved but there’s no question in my mind that we’re still far from achieving equality, both in front of and behind the camera/stage. Awareness of the prevailing inequality has increased dramatically and action should follow suit. At the end of the day, we are an industry of storytellers and these stories should reflect what we see out there in the wider world.
The need for the imbalance to be addressed and redressed is now very apparent and among broadcasters there is a realisation about how imperative it is for audiences to see themselves in the stories they see and hear. From the point of view of our industry, I believe it’s vital for children watching television, film or theatre to see themselves reflected as it opens up a world of otherwise unimagined possibilities of careers they can do. In the same way, it’s vital in all industries that people know that there’s no glass ceiling and that anything is attainable.
I-M: Going back to social media, do you see it as friend or fiend?
C.dW: In my opinion it’s a bit of both and for us, it’s an industry tool. I always advise my clients to use it for work purposes and to think about what they’re posting. One of the down sides of it is that it offers people a cloak of invisibility behind which to hide, so they’re able to behave in a way that the majority of them would never dream of if they were face to face with you.
I really think that social media companies ought to require anyone who’s on their platforms to give their real name and have a real photo…
– Caroline de Wolfe.
There should be genuine details on there so that there’s complete transparency, responsibility and accountability in order to stamp out the appalling trolling which is all too often in evidence.
I-M: What about the over-sexualisation of children and women in media, particularly on social media. How do you feel about this? How does it affect your business?
C.dW: There is no doubt that our clients are under a lot of pressure, caused in a large part because there are not enough women in senior positions in the media and entertainment industries. For us as agents, we feel like our clients’ custodians so it’s incumbent on us to protect our clients and ensure they don’t feel unduly pressurised about their physical appearance.
Certainly the objectification and over-sexualisation of children and young women is something that we must all not only be aware of but actively reject and move away from as it undoubtedly has a profoundly negative effect on society as a whole. If that’s what people see in the media it validates them behaving like that, which makes equality much harder to attain and in my opinion, reality TV has massively contributed to this problem.
The issue is exacerbated by the social media platforms where you are validated by how many likes you get, mostly from strangers. These aren’t your friends or individuals you know and yet they have a tremendous power over people, particularly the young and vulnerable, with a potentially serious impact on their mental health.
Age is also still a problem. For actresses over 50 the availability of substantial roles significantly drops off; and this is also something that has to be recognised and addressed. If we can encourage more women in to the industry as directors, producers and writers the situation will continue to improve. We’re making inroads, but there’s still a long way to go.
I-M: The current pandemic has brought the arts and entertainment industries to their knees. How have you been supporting your clients?
C.dW: Covid has been an absolute disaster for the industry at large. The first lockdown was just so shocking that we didn’t know how to react at first. Overnight all the theatres were shut down, productions sus- pended or cancelled, our clients repatriated from all corners of the world where they were working… It was incredibly difficult to manage because we simply had no idea of what was going to happen and for how long.
Theatres have been closed for nearly a year now, with devastating consequences for everyone involved. That’s why initiatives like Bookstreamz have been a lifeline. Bookstreamz came out of a desire to continue to tell stories during lockdown. This new format is “Audible meets Netflix”. It’s a book performed by a narrator with a cast of actors who deliver the dialogue in character. Together they “perform” the book. It’s a hybrid which brings stories to life on screen so you can watch and listen, or just listen as you would with an audio book.
At the start of lockdown last year Elaine Sturgess started Bookstreamz as a way to raise money for the NHS…
Sylvester Akinrolabu as Tybalt in Romeo & Juliet, filmed and streamed during lockdown
At the start of lockdown last year Elaine Sturgess started Bookstreamz as a way to raise money for the NHS and The Big Issue Foundation, with well known and estab- lished actors working alongside new and emerging talent from TV and theatre: Ross Kemp, Russell Brand, Leslie Ash, Alexander Vlahos, Nicola Stephenson… and many faces from national TV. The response from the public was fantastic so the enterprise has continued and is going from strength to strength.
I also think it is great for students as it’s an authentic reading of a book rather than an adaptation, so schools can use it to help kids not just understand these stories but also at the moment, when they can’t take them on school trips to see theatre productions, they can still enjoy watching and listening to actors performing some of the books which are on their reading lists.
I’ve also been doing some drama school Q&A’s as the students are of course doing all of their classes online. In general the industry has been very creative and has found ways to keep some parts of the business going and provide some very much needed revenue, in spite of the theatre side of the industry being brutally hit. From workshops to streamed theatre productions, where the actors quarantine, get tested and then become each other’s bubble so they can rehearse and film productions for streaming as I mentioned earlier.
I-M: What does the road to recovery look like?
C.dW: The main challenge is going to be to get public confidence back so people return to the theatre and are comfortable sitting next to somebody they don’t know who isn’t in their bubble! Again, there are wonderful creative brains at work coming up with ways in which that can be safely achieved.
I-M: How could the Government assist?
C.dW: For starters they could do informative campaigns so people feel secure going back into theatres. They also need to support the theatre workers (from front of house to backstage staff), especially those who fell through the cracks of the Government assistance available during Covid. For example, all of the recent graduates and young professionals in the industry who are self-employed and didn’t have the required three years of accounts to be eligible for support.
The plight of actors and other theatre workers in the entertainment industry is a real one. Only a small percentage of performers able to earn enough to make it their full-time job, and with so many having slipped through the net regarding the sup- port packages they’ve been hit particularly hard. I certainly welcome the support that has been given to theatres and venues, however very little support has made its way directly to the performers themselves. The fact is that until the restrictions are eased, it’s almost impossible for many of the people who work backstage in theatres to do their job: wigs, make-up, dressers…
I certainly welcome the support that has been given to theatres and venues, however very little support has made its way directly to the performers themselves…
– Caroline de Wolfe.
I don’t know what the exact solutions are but we are going to need a significant amount of goodwill from all parties to emerge from this crisis and rebuild what’s been lost, a kind of perfect storm in which everybody comes together. And we need big injections of capital, angel investors – perhaps the Government themselves taking on that role so they have a stake in some of the productions, and subsidies to ensure job security in the sector. Our industry generates an enormous amount of revenue, and therefore taxes for the Treasury, so I genuinely believe it deserves some significant support to recover from this disastrous time.
With a career that expands over more than two decades, Africa’s first professional model with albinism was interviewed by our editor, Julia Pasarón, after she saw her stunning performance in White Gold, a drama by British film director Luke Bradford that raises awareness about the persecution and abuse people with albinism still suffer in parts of Africa.
Ignorance breeds brutality. There is no question about it. From female castration to child slavery, at the root of all these barbarities lies ignorance. This is never more true than when it comes to the persecution and abuse suffered by people with albinism. Every year, thousands of these human beings are tortured, crippled, killed and dismembered as superstitious beliefs in parts of the sub-Saharan region and Eastern Africa either consider their organs and body parts to have magic properties or all the opposite, they are presumed to be cursed and bring bad luck. Even their graves are often desecrated.
Some countries like South Africa, Tanzania and Malawi are trying to bring change, starting with the legal framework, but this is going to take a long time…
Albinism is an inherited condition that affects the production of melanin, nothing more, nothing less. Although rare in the western world, albinism is quite common in sub-Saharan Africa, likely as a result of consanguineous alliances. Brighton-born filmmaker Luke Bradford has worked across hundreds of productions over the past 20 years with 24 award wins and a further 44 nominations. During his extensive career, he has filmed in over 30 countries and witnessed some extremes in life.
These experiences and a passion for social awareness have shaped Luke’s work. “I believe very much in the power of storytelling and the positive impact that it can have on communities or on a cause,” Luke explains, “and so, if I find a particular topic or social issue that has an impact on me, then I try and create a narrative around it.”
He travelled to Tanzania in 2017 to make a documentary about a missionary couple and there he met Florence, a woman who had had both her arms hacked off because of the belief that the body parts of people with albinism have special powers – yet she still managed to find joy in life. This fortuitous encounter inspired the development of “White Gold”, a drama featuring members of a community in South Africa living with albinism.
I discovered that there are very few dramas that have been made on this topic where people with albinism are represented in a positive light, so I wanted to change this with mine…
– Luke Bradford.
This live-action short film went on to premiere at The Pan African Film Festival in Los Angeles, where it won the Best Narrative Short prize. “White Gold” went on to win numerous prestigious awards including Best Narrative Short at The African Film Festival and Best Acting at Global Impact Film Festival and was long-listed for an Oscar nomination and got a nominated for Best of Afro cinema at the Santa Fe Film Festival.
To read this interview in full, please order your copy of our new issue here!
“In a way, walking around Britain and considering the greatness part, I suppose I felt melancholy. What was once cutting edge and large-scale industry, people that lived and worked on the coast as a way of life, and much of it has gone. You get the extremes of Britain from the coastline; from the wealthiest areas near Poole, to some of the poorest around Blackpool. It is a visceral experience.”
Quintin Lake was reflecting on his walk around the perimeter of Britain, a five-year project to visually record the state of the nation from the boundary. Britain is an island, a people apart; and much of that has been bounded by its coastline.
From John of Gaunt’s soliloquy about the decline of Britain if Richard II ascended the throne, to Winston Churchill’s call to arms that Britain’s would fight the enemy, “We shall prove ourselves once more able to defend our island home.” Even now, in the last few years, Britain’s place with other nations has been reconsidered and against expectations, the island mentality has prevailed over other concerns with the decision to exit Europe.
It was a huge deal to feel the thrill of inspiration. I did not want to lose this, so it was time to commit for the long term…
– Quintin Lake.
Quintin Lake’s photos are a pictorial definition of the island home, “This precious stone set in a silvery sea” character. From a group of pensioners sitting on a beach in Sussex, huddled around each other with their place markers setting out their encampment – as if they are an assembly of knights, their standards held aloft in the bracing cross wind – holding the position should marauders from overseas choose this beach upon which to land.
First light at Bamburgh Castle.
From the raw and rugged landscape of the western side of Scotland near Knoydart, where abandoned crofters’ cottages witness storm and sunshine that appear in the same moment create ephemeral rainbows in the brief downpours, to the starkness of Seaton Sands, Hartlepool, where Lowry-esque figures play on a pristine sandy beach with the Teesside Industrial Substation in the background.
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As the UK Parliament has chosen March to be Women’s History Month and with Watches & Wonders round the corner, we talked to our friends at Watchfinder & Co to help us shine a light on just a few of the iconic women who have played a pivotal role in the evolution of the much loved wristwatch.
Elizabeth I – the first A trendsetter in her own right; the first ever wristwatch is believed to have belonged to none other than Elizabeth I, the Queen of England. The wristwatch – a tiny clock set in a bracelet – was gifted to her by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester in 1571(1). This piece, referred to as an “arm watch” at the time, was one of two timekeeping devices she was believed to own; the other, located in a ring, also included an alarm function. Although the timepiece given to the Virgin Queen by Dudley was striking in its innovation, apparently it was not that unusual to for Dudley and his circle to offer their Queen elaborate clocks and watches as a way to show their loyalty and the value of their service.
Queen Marie Antoniette with a rose painted by Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun in 1783.
Marie Antoinette – the patron Marie Antoinette was known to be a patron of Abraham Louis Breguet, the Prussian born watchmaker whose Maison still exists and thrives today. Marie’s patronship was invaluable to the watchmaker, with the Queen of France ostensibly propagating her love for watches in general and Breguet’s in particular, to both her court and Emperors across Europe. The most famous timepiece associated with Marie Antoinette is no. 160, a pocket-watch that at the time all possible complications known to man and completely made of gold. Romantics believe that it was commissioned by her lover, Count Hans Axel von Fersen. Unfortunately the French Queen lost her head before the watch was finished. Neither Fersen nor the same Abraham Louis Breguet would see the watch either. The “160” was only finished by Breguet’s son four years after his death, in 1827.
The original Breguet n. 160, which remained horology’s most complex mechanism until the last century…
Romantics believe that it was commissioned by her lover, Count Hans Axel von Fersen. Unfortunately the French Queen lost her head before the watch was finished. Neither Fersen nor the same Abraham Louis Breguet would see the watch either. The “160” was only finished by Breguet’s son four years after his death, in 1827.
Mercedes Gleitze was the first person to swim the Straits of Gibraltar and the first British woman to swim the English channel.
Mercedes Gleitze – the headline maker It could be argued that Rolex, the titan of modern watchmaking, owe their initial success as a waterproof watch manufacturer to a woman called Mercedes Gleitze. In 1926, unveiled the waterproof watch that established the Swiss firm’s reputation, the Rolex Oyster. It was given this name because it was clamped shut like an oyster shell and could survive under water. Two major technical innovations made the single-case wristwatch watertight: a screw-down back and bezel, as well as a newly patented winding crown. The wearer could screw down the crown to seal the case.
In 1926, Rolex launched the Oyster, so called because it was clamped shut like an oyster shell and could survive under water…
In 1927 Mercedes Gleitze, became the first British woman to swim the English Channel and the first ever to do so whilst wearing a waterproof watch. The watch in question was a Rolex Oyster and her cross channel accomplishment propelled the new model into the news, helping secure its place in history.
Panthère de Cartier was first marketed in 1983 and it’s been a classic ever since.
Jeanne Toussaint – the creative Another person of importance was Jeanne Toussaint – Cartier’s Artistic Director of Jewellery. Jeanne was a young creative living in Paris in the early 1900’s. Her close-knit circle of friends included Coco Chanel, George Barbier and, most crucially, Louis Cartier – one of three brothers managing their late grandfather’s company, Cartier. In 1933, Jeanne was appointed as Cartier’s Artistic Director of Jewellery, signalling one of the most recognisable and collectible eras in the Maison’s history. Jeanne was a visionary, cited as both the muse and the driving force behind Cartier’s style in the 20th century. Her propensity to wear a full-length coat made of panther fur earned her the moniker “petite panthère” – something that has woven itself into the fabric of the Maison ever since.
Jeanne Touissant used to wear a full length panther fur coat for which Louis Cartier affectionately nicknamed her “Little Panther”…
In 1914 the first panther motif appeared on a platinum wristwatch by Cartier, it was produced with onyx and pave diamonds, in the pattern of a panther’s spots. In 1983 (7 years after Jeanne’s death) Cartier launched the Panthère. With its sleek design, concealed clasp, and linked bracelet, it quickly became a huge hit. The Panther motif continues to be present in the company’s watch collections today.
New Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41 mm in rose gold and a black ceramic middle case.
Jasmine Audemars – the progressive Jasmine Audemars is the chairwoman of the Board of Directors for Audemars Piguet – the only watchmaking brand still in the hands of its founding families. Jasmine was the editor-in-chief of the prestigious Journal de Genève for 12 years before her father asked her to take over the presidency of Audemars Piguet in the early 80s. In 1992 Jasmine succeeded her father as the chair of the Board of Directors for Audemars Piguet and has been at the helm ever since.
We must continue to combine innovation with fine watchmaking tradition…
– Jasmine Audemars.
Under her leadership Audemars Piguet has made unprecedented progress, embracing modern trends in materials, style and updating and expanding its core offering. Jasmine also spearheads the Audemars Piguet Foundation which supports various research and development projects as well as a number of humanitarian and social initiatives.
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, introduced by Chabi, won the Aiguille d’Or at CPHG 2020.
Chabi Nouri – the award winner The CEO of one of watchmaking’s most respected maisons, Chabi Nouri joined the Richemont group in 1998 and Piaget in 2014, becoming its CEO three years later. Since becoming CEO, Chabi has been responsible for steering Piaget through one of the industry’s most difficult and challenging periods. Her ambition has been to modernise the brand, while capitalising on its history and heritage.
Chabi is known for her passion and energy, both of which she has infused into Piaget from the moment she joined in 2014…
Last year, under Chabi’s stewardship, Piaget re-introduced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch, a 2mm thick technological marvel which won the coveted Aiguille d’Or at CPHG 2020.
The brilliant Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar.
Catherine Renier – the digital innovator Jaeger-LeCoultre appointed Catherine Renier as their CEO in 2018. Formerly of Van Cleef & Arpels, Catherine has weathered the storm of Covid-19 and used it as an opportunity explore new digital innovations for the Swiss Maison. Last year Catherine and her team partnered with Google to allow users to explore Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest product novelty – the new Master Control Chronograph Calendar – through Google search AR. This functionality enabled users to see the watch at scale, embedded into its environment through a 360° view. They were the first watchmaking brand to beta-test such a feature.
Renier’s philosophy is based on authenticity, heritage, craftmanship and experience…
MKX
Combining characterful design and an automatic movement developed and assembled under the roof at the Manufacture, the collection represents a benchmark for the company as it is the first time that Jaeger-LeCoultre combine a chronograph with a triple calendar.