Mad cooking in the heart of the Black Forest
Chef de cuisine Viktoria “Viki” Fuchs is the sixth generation to run the Romantik Hotel and Spielweg restaurant in Germany’s upper Münstertal. But she’s doing it her way – with sister, Kristin; husband, Johannes, and a fresh, Asian twist.
“Wild boar dim sum,” says Viki of the meal guests request most – her signature dish. “I mean, it’s not soooo far away from our Maultaschen,” she adds. Pasta-pockets of Swabian culture, filled with onion and smoked meats. “Normally, they are braised in butter; but we use rice dough and steam them to serve with soy sauce.” That’s Viki on a plate: bright, creative, rooted, cosmopolitan. She combines the best of the Black Forest with flavours from the Far East.
“I’m just carrying on from my father,” is one of JRE-Jeunes Restaurateurs’ youngest, female members’ modest response. “What he did was new.” Karl-Josef, a hunter-chef, took over the Spielweg restaurant in 1986 and quickly forged its reputation for exceptional game-cooking. “He was a pioneer of the ‘regional’ thing,” Viki explains. “He was doing 25 years ago what the Nordic chefs showed 10 or 15…