Our last stop is Watamu, a paradise of turquoise waters on the shores of the Indian Ocean. Our home for the next four days is Kusini House, a stunning, fully catered, three-story, Swahili-style clifftop villa overlooking the Indian Ocean and Mida Creek. A top-level veranda and a dedicated rooftop terrace – perfect for sundowners – offer panoramic views of the ocean, creek and spectacular sunsets. The garden surrounds a 15-metre pool, complete with a 20-metre pavilion equipped with a well-stocked bar, baraza seating and dining area.
Masah, the butler in charge, makes sure service runs as smooth as a glove. Every meal is delicious and every need or wish is immediately fulfilled.
Kusini House in Watamu features a stunning blend of traditional Swahili coastal architecture and contemporary luxury. Built on a commanding cliff position, it treats guests to panoramic views overlooking the Indian Ocean, the mouth of Mida Creek, and Whale Island.
Julie had organised for us some amazing experiences. From scuba-diving in the local reef with Aqua Ventures – rated PADI 5-Star – in the rich waters of Watamu Marine National Park & Reserve, to Stand up Paddleboarding with Tribe Watersports and snorkelling in Mida Creek with Bahari Hai, a not-for-profit marine conservation organisation that works with locals to increase awareness about the importance of protecting and establishing healthy ecosystems.
Beneath the waters off Watamu we dived with Aqua Ventures and discovered vibrant coral gardens and colourful reef fish. At Midas Creek, the conservation work of Bahari Hai has contributed to increase green turtle clutches per season by 50 percent.
Guided by Julie [Church], we find and follow juvenile green and hawksbill turtles that actively use the creek’s quiet, shallow seagrass beds to feed and rest safely away from open-ocean sharks. This is a busy neighbourhood. Besides turtles, we saw colourful starfish, parrotfish, moray eels and sea cucumbers, to name but a few.
The cherry on the cake was our deep-sea snorkelling experience with Maharani Services, run and managed by David Darnborough. Feeling safe in Julie’s presence, we jumped into the sea, feeling mesmerised by the infinite deep indigo-blue void beneath us. Sunlight created shifting columns of light – known as “God rays” – that danced and disappeared into the darkness below. Suddenly, from the corner of my eye, I saw something large approaching. As I turned, I realised it was a dolphin. Then another. And another. Before we knew it, we were surrounded by a huge pod, a couple of hundred strong, according to the boat’s captain. They were jumping around us, diving belly-up beneath us to get a better look, singing as they moved through the water. They seemed as excited to see us as we were to see them.
David Darnborough took us on a day trip to discover the beauty of deep-sea snorkelling. We were incredibly lucky to encounter
a huge pod of dolphins that were as keen to see us up close as we were to see them. Video © Julie Church.
The open waters of the Watamu-Malindi coast are officially designated as an internationally recognised Important Marine Mammal Area. The sheer concentration of dolphins here is the result of Watamu’s unique underwater geography, abundance of food and active local conservation efforts. But no scientific explanation could prepare me for the feeling of a wild dolphin fixing its gaze on mine, just a couple of metres away. It was one of those rare, life-altering moments when the world seems to stop, expand and rearrange itself all at once. Quite possibly, the most special experience of my life.
Kenya definitely proved to us why it is universally considered one of the best and most iconic travel destinations in Africa. With Seas4Life, every stage was carefully thought out, expertly connected and alive with purpose.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Part four of Into the Blue and Wild, I-M Magazine’s four-part journey through Kenya with Seas4Life. First: Kenya – Conservation Begins in Nairobi; Second: Kenya– Walking Safari at Tumaren Camp, Laikipia; Third: Kenya – Big-Cat Drama at Seringet Mara Camp.
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Nairobi daily from £1,445 return in World Traveller Plus and from £2,720 in Club World, including taxes and carrier fees. Find out more, HERE.
Lead image: Watamu beach. © Julia Pasarón
Show Comments +