The new Ralph Lauren Western Cushion watch with a solid turquoise dial combines the brand’s American craftsmanship style with the industry’s recent trend of using semi-precious stones. In doing so, they are tapping into the rich cultural history of metalwork and adorned accessories in southwest America.
Ralph Lauren Western Cushion Watch in sterling silver with turquoise dial
Ralph Lauren, a noted watch collector in his own right, entered into a partnership with Richemont back in 2008 so that the luxury group, through its stable of luxury movement manufacturers, could supply movements for the American fashion icon’s horological designs. In the time since, there have been some notable successes. The Western watch collection – seen as complementary to the Double RL (RRL) label – is one of them.
The Ralph Lauren RRL collection evokes the look and ethos of the American West.
Ralph Lauren’s RRL – launched in 1993 – draws its inspiration from vintage American workwear and the rugged romance of the Old West. Named after Ralph Lauren’s Double RL Ranch in Colorado, the brand is dedicated to creating high-quality, enduring pieces shaped by heritage, craftsmanship and an authentic, vintage aesthetic. Its collections are defined by raw and distressed denim, leather jackets, sturdy boots, Navajo-inspired blankets and other heritage-style garments. The Western watches were conceived as a natural extension of the RRL wardrobe, designed to complement and complete its distinctive look. The first one was released in 2018, as part of the celebrations marking the 50th anniversary of Ralph Lauren.
Left: Navajo Turquoise Silver Gold Longhorn Belt Buckle Sterling Silver. © Alltribes Indian Art, Gilbert, AZ, USA.
Right: Turquoise Gun Grips by Mark Chee. © Lot-Art Auctions, Meza, AZ, USA.
The new turquoise-dialled Western watch is a direct derivative of US southwestern jewellery and cultural heritage. The Spanish colonists introduced silver metalworking techniques to Native American artisans in the 1800s. Traditions blended together with Navajo and Pueblo silversmiths, combining silver with regional turquoise, merging the new skills with ancient stone carving and jewellery-making traditions. The arrival of the railroad in the 19th century meant an influx of tourists and travellers that led to a boom in the souvenir and jewellery market, fuelling demand for the turquoise and silver pieces created by Native American artists.
The artisanal craft in the engraving on the silver case and on the leather straps.
The authenticity in the manufacture of the Western watch demonstrates Ralph Lauren’s commitment to the craft behind the design. Cushion cases are a throwback to when they were first fashionable, about a century ago. The turquoise dialled model with its distinctive Roman and Arabic numerals and Breguet-style hands, comes in an 18kt rose gold (£33,000) or sterling silver (£20,000) 42mm case.
The motifs engraved on the case and leather strap remind of those seen in gun grips, buckles and jewellery that cowboys really wear. The case metal is hand-engraved by an artisan in New York before being given a vintage finish, The straps are hand-tooled in Texas from rugged calfskin and then burnished in Italy. Beneath the dial is an automatic mechanical movement made by Piaget exclusively for Ralph Lauren.
It is arguably the smartest use of a semi-precious stone dial that I can think of. The watch not only has a genuine link to the Native American jewellery style, but the design is embedded in US cultural history. To quote Ralph Lauren, “The spirit of Western style resonates with a rugged elegance and authenticity that people connect with. The combination of turquoise with precious metals speaks to the rich heritage of American Western craftsmanship – it embodies a sense of honesty and enduring appeal.”
Author: Andrew Hildreth
Lead image: Ralph Lauren Turquoise Dial Western Cushion Watch in rose gold.
If you are interested in the use of semi-precious stones in watches, you may like our article on Stone Dial Watches.
Show Comments +