Aficionados of both canines and artisanal decorative techniques – used to getting spoilt only when it’s Chinese Year of The Dog – are given a treat by three new Arceau Jour de Casting pieces (£POA) Hermès has just added to its horological repertoire. The three new pieces pay homage to our love for dogs, represented by Orson, Taco and Amy.
The pieces’ earliest ancestor is inspired by a much larger four-legged friend of humanity. Designer Henri d’Origny, whose creative input has enriched Hermès’ creative output for more than half a century, conceived the original Arceau watch in 1978, incorporating various references to the French house’s heritage as a saddle- and harness-maker. These details included stirrup-shaped, asymmetrical lugs, sloping numerals that hinted of a horse in motion and traditional saddle stitching on the leather (often Barenia calfskin) straps.
The Arceau has traditionally served as a blank canvas on which to showcase Hermès’ considerable metiers d’art prowess, though (Google the Arceau Pocket Amazones if you have a minute), and here they’ve released a trio which should appear high on the Christmas lists of those who count hound-lovers amongst our nearest and dearest.
Only 12 Orsons will be made, each requiring many hours of miniature marquetry from the skilled
craftsmen at Hermès, each detail meticulously cut, assembled and glued.
The dogs depicted have previously been immortalised in Jour de casting silk scarves, designed by artist Liz Stirling, based on Hermès’ employees’ own pets. One, named “Orson”, has been recreated here in wood marquetry, the animal’s muzzle, eyes, nose and tongue painted on the eight different types of wood to create texture and nuance.
“Amy” – flamboyant glasses and all – has been created using layer upon layer of miniature painting and engraving, successive firing operations enhancing details (and, in the glasses’ case, vibrancy) further still.
Taco’s laughing eyes are defined by gold wires and brought to life by delicate enamelling, while Amy’s bold textured sunglasses took shape at the engraver’s workshop, after patient painting and several firings.
“Taco”, meanwhile, has been recreated using a method whereby an artisan applies a thin layer of blue enamel to the dial, then hand-paints the creature’s fur over a snailed background, imbuing the dial with texture and depth that would surely have delighted the owner.
All three dogs are viewed via an anti-glare sapphire crystal, framed within a 38mm white gold case set with 71 diamonds and clasped to the wrist with a Swift calfskin strap. Hermès’ mechanical self-winding H1912 movement is behind the trio’s 50-hour power reserve.
Author: Nick Scott
Watches’ soldier pictures © Anita Schlaefli.
Watches’ detail pictures © David Marchon.
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