Breguet has never had to invent a maritime backstory for its Marine collection. In 1815, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy, and the marine chronometers he went on to make gave the modern line both its name and its purpose. For 2026, the house has returned to that heritage with refreshed versions of two core models, the Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527.
The most visible change is on the dial. Roman numerals give way to applied Breguet numerals, a move that makes the watches feel sportier without losing any of their refinement or tradition. Beneath them sits the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché, the pattern Breguet created for its 250th anniversary in 2025, named after the Paris quay where the founder kept his workshop. The date has also moved from 3 o’clock to 6, restoring symmetry to the collection that enthusiasts will appreciate.
The different dials and styles to the new Breguet Marine ref. 5517; from left to right, white gold with an ice-blue dial, rose gold with black, and titanium with a gradient blue dial.
The Marine 5517 is the purist’s choice with hours, minutes, seconds and date, in a case that remains a suitable 40mm across and 11.5mm thick. Three versions are offered: white gold with an ice-blue dial, rose gold with black, and titanium with a gradient blue. Each has a solid gold, hand-guilloché dial and the signature fluted caseband that identifies a Breguet from the side.
For those who want more on the wrist, the Marine Chronographe 5527 adds a flyback function, which lets the chronograph be reset and restarted with a single push. Breguet has also simplified the layout, dropping the hour counter to leave two registers at 3 and 9 o’clock. Inside is the in-house automatic Calibre 582QA, beating at 4Hz with a 48-hour power reserve, in a 42.3mm case water-resistant to 100 metres.
New Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 with its simplified dial leaving two registers at 3 and 9 o’clock, and left, Inside the in-house automatic calibre 582QA with the rotor styled as a ship’s wheel.
Both models come on either a rubber strap or a matching metal bracelet. The Marine 5517 starts at CHF 20,000 in titanium on rubber and rises to CHF 60,800 in gold on a gold bracelet, while the chronograph runs from CHF 25,000 to CHF 71,100 on a gold bracelet, and all models join the permanent collection rather than arriving as limited editions.
This is evolution rather than revolution, but a well-considered one. By borrowing more of its founder’s design language, Breguet has given the Marine a clearer sense of what it is: a sports watch that never forgets it was born at sea.
Author: Andrew Hildreth
Other elegant sport watches recently reviewed by I-M Inquisitive Minds include the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary, the Breitling Top Time B01 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5, and the new Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono,
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