Pellico3 continues to attract international attention for its refined seasonal cuisine, elegant interiors and exceptional service. Under the leadership of Executive Chef Guido Paternollo, the restaurant has become one of the city’s most compelling gastronomic destinations, pairing contemporary Italian creativity with French culinary precision.
As a precursor to a culinary career, it isn’t every executive chef who can lay claim to a degree in engineering, but 34-year-old Guido Paternollo certainly can. Perhaps it’s the detail-driven precision of his academic training that underpins the complexity of his dishes but, whatever the reason, his is a talent worthy of celebration.
Pellico3 and its adjoining bar, Mio Lab, were completely revamped by Italian ‘starchitect’ Flaviano Capriotti following the post-Covid reopening of the Park Hyatt three years ago. As a venue for a well-crafted pre-dinner cocktail, the bar – under the expert stewardship of Alessandro Iacobucci – is an excellent starting point, yet it is the restaurant that ultimately takes centre stage. With its interior décor realised in a palette of soft greens, browns and golds reflective of the seasonality of the produce, the space is warmly welcoming and provides a perfect backdrop to the food. In Guido’s words, “Every season the earth gives new scents, tastes and colours… That’s how I try to transfer its purest essence into my dishes.”
From the left: Delicate amuse-bouche; Ravioli della Domenica, made with roasted chicken, potato broth and lemon thyme;
and sliced kiwi served with creamy yoghurt, kiwi honey and green shisho.
Traditional Italian recipes are celebrated but interpreted through the lens of classical French training. Guido spent several years in Paris honing his craft under legendary names including Alain Ducasse and Yannick Alléno; as a result, international sophistication shines through at every level.
An array of delicate amuse-bouche prefaced the meal, followed by Ravioli della Domenica – miniature roast-chicken ravioli in a potato broth delicately scented with lemon thyme, designed to evoke memories of a home-cooked Sunday lunch. The main course was rib-eye of Wagyu beef served with aged pumpkin and brown-butter béarnaise, the pumpkin offering a gentle counterpoint to the marbled richness of the meat. Dessert was a refreshing combination of kiwi honey, green shiso and yoghurt and, as with the other courses, the keynote was subtlety and a harmonious balance of complementary flavours.
The accompanying wines, drawn from an extensive and expertly curated cellar, include classic French and Italian labels with a notable emphasis on superb Barolos and impressive sparkling wines. With a list running to more than 55 pages, it is perhaps best to seek guidance from the expert sommeliers, who are exceptionally informed and unfailingly helpful.
In its listing for Pellico3, the Michelin Guide praises “a young chef who serves elegant and occasionally complex cuisine”, noting the influence of Guido’s French training alongside his Mediterranean sensibility. Yet perhaps the most fitting summation comes from a TripAdvisor review from July 2024: “Great dining experience in a refined environment where the waiting staff treat you with care and attention, and the Chef transmits experience and passion in every dish.”
Author: Maurice Mullen
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