Tucked within the opulent Old War Office (OWO) building in Whitehall, Paper Moon brings a taste of Milanese elegance to the heart of London. With its roots in 1970s Italy and a reputation that spans from Doha to Hong Kong, the London outpost of this family-owned restaurant delivers true culinary prowess in a way that only those with unshakeable confidence in what they do can do.
The dining room is elegant, reminiscing of the glamour of the 1950s and ‘60s. A blend of brass, marble, soft lighting and high ceilings echo the grandeur of the historic site. Yet, there’s an intimacy to the space that belies its scale – a sense of warmth that immediately puts diners at ease.
For those who can’t resist al fresco dining, the restaurant offers a few tables in the main courtyard of the OWO – impressive surroundings to match the equally impressive food that comes out of the Paper Moon kitchen.
Left, the dining room at Paper Moon London is a tribute to 1950s and ’60s screen legends.
Right, al fresco dining is offered on the impressive courtyard of the OWO.
This is where I chose to have lunch when I visited with a friend on a beautiful summer afternoon. The menu is like a love letter to classic Italian cuisine, elevated with precision and flair to the highest levels of fine dining. Unable to choose and not being either of us big eaters – which we both regrated that day – we asked general manager Salvatore Muceli to help us decide.
We started with fried Fiori di Zucchine (courgette flowers), filled with mozzarella di bufala, and served with anchovy sauce. Anyone who may have tried to fry courgette. The crispiness of the batter combined with the creaminess of the fresh cheese is a combination made in heaven, and one very difficult to master, but not for Executive Chef Leonardo Pieri Buti, recognised as one of the best Italian chefs in London.
Next came another star of Paper Moon’s antipasti, the Noci di Capesante (pan-seared scallops) with fresh pea puree and sea urchin mousse on top. The scallops had a delicate golden crust on the outside while remaining tender, almost buttery, within. The sea urchin mousse crowned the dish with a silky, cloud-like richness. Intensely umami and slightly saline, it added an indulgent marine depth that enhances the scallops’ oceanic character. The peas brought a refreshing earthiness to the whole array. This is a dish that captures the spirit of Paper Moon: luxurious but never overwrought.
A few of the stars in the Paper Moon menu: Perfectly crispy courgette flowers, succulent pan-seared scallops and silky panna cotta.
Salvatore recommended we paired our food with a bottle of Chardonnay from Alto Adige, Cantina Terlano-Kellerei Terlan Tradition. This is a fresh, vibrant wine with a lot of apple and lemon on the nose, good structure and just the right amount of minerality.
Not only this Chardonnay was a great match for our antipasti but also for the lobster linguine that followed. Unlike in most other restaurants, at Paper Moon this dish comes with a whole Homarus lobster, datterini tomatoes exploding with the flavour of Italian summer and the most sumptuous bisque one could wish for.
To finish, Salvatore insisted we tried the Panna Cotta. Made with Madagascar vanilla and served with almond crumble and raspberry sauce. This textbook perfection. Impeccably set and quivering, the pannacotta arrives with a crown of fresh raspberries and edible silver foil on top. The vanilla is pronounced but not cloying, and the texture—creamy yet light—is textbook perfection.
Service is graceful and intuitive throughout, from the moment one arrives until one realises it is, regretfully, time to leave.
As London continues to embrace a new wave of high-end Italian dining, Paper Moon at The OWO holds its own with confident charm and culinary sophistication. It’s a place to impress without trying too hard – whether you’re sealing a deal over lunch or indulging in a romantic dinner.
Author: Julia Pasarón
If you are a bit of a gourmet, you may enjoy dining at Smith & Wollensky, Caviar Kaspia and the Dalloway Terrace.
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