Part of the SO/Sotogrande Spa & Golf Resort at the western end of Costa del Sol, El Cortijo Santa María pays homage to the eponymous traditional rural farmhouse, which many aristocrats and wealthy landowners once had – and some still do – in Andalusia.
The name is not arbitrary. The restaurant occupies an original cortijo that predates the foundation of Sotogrande in 1962. As such, the design has a rustic base, enhanced by the use of warm colours, cosy lighting and rich textiles to create an intimate atmosphere. The indoor dining area transitions to a panoramic terrace offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
The food is anchored in Andalusian gastronomy, freshened up with fusion elements from different parts of the world. The creative mind behind it is Michelin-starred chef Nicolas Isnard. He designs the menus and acts as a guest chef, creating specialised, seasonal menus that show off the ingredients sourced from the region. The latest is Al-Andalous, inspired by Andalusian heritage and the cultural encounters that define southern Spanish cuisine.
El Cortijo 1962 serves jamón Ibérico Etiqueta Negra 32, the highest grade of Spanish Iberian ham.
Local provenance is important, but it hardly means a sacrifice as the region is blessed with incredible produce from both land and sea. One of the original areas of production for the famous Spanish jamón Ibérico is just around the corner from here, so we felt compelled to start our meal with a plate of it. The intramuscular fat, rich in monounsaturated fatty acids – similar to those found in olive oil – has a very low melting point so as you chew the meat, it melts almost instantly, coating the palate with a powerful, deep and satisfying umami flavour.
In Spain, we have cheese with the aperitif rather than at the end of the meal, and manager Guillermo Orozco, proudly local, encouraged us to sample a couple of regional examples from the menu. The first, Payoya goat cheese, is a highly acclaimed, award-winning artisan variety from Cádiz made from the milk of the Payoya goat and the Merina Grazalemeña sheep, both native breeds that graze in the nearby mountains. The second, Costeña goat’s brie with truffle, from Málaga, is a creamy, slightly tangy cheese with an intense earthy aroma from the truffle.
Next came Almadraba tuna, wild Atlantic bluefin caught using a sustainable 3,000-year-old artisanal net-trapping technique brought to Spain by the Phoenicians. The method only catches mature fish during their spring migration, producing top-quality, high-fat, flavourful tuna, all of it caught locally.
Left: Andalusian flower of Almadraba tuna marinated with cumin and black lemon and enhanced with harissa, served on a pool of
Sherry vinegar and ajoblanco – a thick cold soup made of garlic and almonds.
Right: Memories of Seasonal Fruit, served with strawberry sorbet and a crispy sesame seed tuille.
Once in this delightful corner of the world, we couldn’t leave without trying Retinta, a Spanish breed two-thirds Andalusian and one-third from Extremadura. The meat is slightly fibrous with an intense nutty flavour and a hint of iron. Its fine marbling ensures excellent juiciness during cooking. Accompanying it were beautifully roasted red peppers and Cortijo potatoes. Cooked dauphinoise style, they came crisp on the outside, with little dollops of creamy goat cheese on top. Utterly delicious.
We washed it all down with a bottle of Iceni 2024 by Tesalia, recommended by Guillermo. This is a vibrant and sophisticated Andalusian wine, born in the Sierra de Grazalema, in the northeastern part of the province of Cádiz. It delivers freshness, character and elegance in every sip.
Guillermo wouldn’t let us leave without trying something from the dessert menu, so, despite my brain warning me about how many hours in the gym I’d have to spend to neutralise this extraordinary meal, I gave in and ordered Memories of Seasonal Fruit, served with strawberry sorbet and a sesame seed tuille. Simply perfect.
El Cortijo Santa María 1962
SO/ Sotogrande Spa & Golf Resort
Av. Almenara, s/n, 11360 Sotogrande, Cádiz, Spain
Bookings and reservations, HERE.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Other fine dining restaurants recently reviewed by I-M Inquisitive Minds include Coq d’Argent London, NORA Canary Wharf, and Pellico 3 Park Hyatt Milano.
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