Over 20 years ago, China Tang opened its doors in London, at one of the most emblematic hotels of the capital: The Dorchester. Since then, it has built a reputation for serving some of the finest Cantonese food outside China.
The experience starts long before the starters. Descend into a subterranean world that will take you back to 1930s Shanghai. Lacquered wood, geometric patterns and mirrored panels combine with colourful wallpaper and Chinese tapestries to create a dramatic, moody, pre-war atmosphere.
The intimate bar is a jewel in its own right. Art Deco accents and unconventional pieces contribute to its quirky personality. It is here that my friend and I start our evening, he with a Cactus cocktail – a delicious gin-based concoction with a mix of tantalising spirits such as Absinth, Nuet Aquavit and Kumquat Liqueur – and me, with a traditional glass of champagne.
Once at our table, our waiter, Hendry, expertly guided us through the 12-page à la carte menu. From classics such as Peking Duck (there is a version with Kristal caviar), which is so perfectly glazed that it looks as if it had been lacquered; to all-time favourites, like Ma Po Tofu, an iconic Sichuan Chinese dish featuring soft tofu set in a numbing-hot bright red sauce; and China Tang specials, such as Golden King Prawns with Salted Egg Yolk.
Star dishes at China Tang include Butterflied Prawn Cracker (left); Dover Sole Roll with Caviar (middle) and Peking Duck.
Dim Sum is an absolute must at China Tang. All of them beautifully presented and exuding flavour. We had chicken dumplings with carrot and pepper. The Chicken, Prawn and Black Garlic Fried Dumplings were cooked to perfection, with a crispy exterior and a soft and juicy interior, the black garlic lending a dark, caramelised sweetness to the savoury meats. Last, we had Iberico Pork Siu Long Bao, broth-filled parcels of umaminess, courtesy of the rich, nutty flavour of acorn-fed Spanish Ibérico pork.
Next, we had Ibérico Cha Siu Pork, Roast Pork Belly Mixed Platter, which was surprising in its variety of textures. The pieces that came with skin were the deliciously crunchy aten and the leaner pieces – marinated in honey – melted in the mouth.
The Braised Beef in Oyster Sauce was equally succulent, aromatic, tender, and covered on a silky glaze that enveloped the meat like a hug.
We couldn’t not try one of the most celebrated dishes at China Tang, the above-mentioned Golden King Prawns with Salted Egg Yolk. They are worth every calorie. Battered in potato starch, they are then coated in egg yolk and back in the wok. The yolk dust gives a delicate sandy texture that enhances the overall profile of the prawns.
The dumplings at China Tang are considered among the finest Cantonese dim sum outside of China. Here from the left: Chicken, Prawn and Black Garlic Fried Dumplings, Chiu Chow Dumplings and Ibérico Pork Siu Long Bao.
It is not easy to pair such a variety of dishes with wine, but sommelier Salvatore and Head Sommelier Igor, are used to such challenges. For the first part of our meal, they served us a Slovenian Chardonnay (Igor is from former Yugoslavia), 2023 Marjan Simčič Cru Selection, a bright golden wine with a lovely creamy nose and citrus notes that went really well with the Dim Sum and the pork. Finding a wine to pair with both the beef and the prawns was even more difficult, but Igor hit the bull’s eye with Hartford Court Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2021. This highly-rated Californian red works with both dishes by bridging the savoury, spicy nature of the beef with its fruit notes, and contrasting the fried, fatty nature of the seafood with its high acidity.
After such a feast, it was impossible for us to have dessert. Hendry informed us that the Mango Pudding – served with coconut sorbet, the China Tang exclusive Chocolate Dumpling and the Lemon Salted Egg Yolk Custard Bun, are the stars of the show. I think I should come back to check by myself, don’t you agree?
China Tang
53 Park Lane, London W1K 1QA
Tel. 020 7319 7088
reservations@chinatanglondon.co.uk
Author: Lina Ress
Other fine-dining restaurants in London recently reviewed by I-M Inquisitive Minds include Angler Rooftop, Papermoon at the OWO and Zima Notting Hill.
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