Cé La Vi arrived at the top of Paddington Square a few months ago with all the advantages money can buy: Renzo Piano architecture, a handsome double-height perch on the 17th and 18th floors and a sweep across London that makes even the most jaded local stop mid-sentence.
The brand has an impeccable history. Cé La Vi began in Singapore in 2010 and built its reputation on the seduction of rooftop dining done with energy, sophistication and a dusting of drama. It now sits within Admo Lifestyle Holding’s portfolio, with London part of a broader global push that also includes Miami. The crowd it hopes to attract is easy enough to picture: well-heeled Londoners, dealmakers fresh from Paddington, international guests, and the sort of fashion and media set that likes its lunch with a little spectacle attached. That seems to be happening already.
L-R: The stylish bar at Cé La Vi London and the heated rooftop terrace, with sweeping views of London.
Inside, the room has been designed to flatter both the city and the people looking at it. Prospect Design International has leaned into discrete glossiness, using reflective ceilings, warm tones, Rubelli leather and Pierre Frey textiles to create a space that feels luxurious without being loud.
The menu, reassuringly, is concise. That is usually the first sign of a kitchen with some self-belief. The format is built around sharing plates that arrive as they are ready, which is meant to create ease, though at this price level, it can occasionally feel less relaxed than random.
Still, there is plenty to admire. The edamame – the simplest of appetisers – are given an interesting edge with Tom Yum salt seasoning. From the starters, my favourite is the fish gyoza, beautifully crispy on one side, with a citrus edge that brings the seafood to life. I didn’t try them when I visited, but I have in good authority that the crudo options are excellent.
L-R: The starters on the menu of Cé La Vi London, Australian wagyu fillet and kalamansi mousse with mango brûlée and coconut ice cream.
However, it is with the larger plates that the kitchen, led in London by executive chef Elton Zaka, really shines. The Chilean sea bass is the standout: succulent and caramelised to perfection, it gently yields to the fork. The Szechuan green chilli sauce creates a sophisticated contrast between the fish’s rich, buttery fat and the sauce’s bright, aromatic and numbing heat. A glass of Sancerre Les Pierris 2022 from Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2022 is the perfect companion to bridge the gap between bridges the gap between the bass’s rich texture and the sauce’s spices and sharpness.
The Australian wagyu fillet, served with black pepper sauce is truly luxurious and well-balanced, merging the intense beefy richness with the aromatic kick of the spice. Our sommelier paired with a Barolo Tortoniano, whose firm tannins and high acidity easily cut through the Wagyu’s fat, while its earthy, spicy notes of juniper and liquorice create an aromatic frame to the heat of the sauce.
The dessert menu has something for everyone. The sticky toffee pudding with house-made Suntory whisky ice cream is truly memorable: rich, fragrant and indulgent. The ice cream alone is so good that we asked for an extra scoop. If you prefer something lighter, you may want to try the kalamansi mousse with mango brûlée and coconut ice cream. I imagine that on a summer afternoon on their ample terrace overlooking our capital, it must feel like heaven.
I believe Cé La Vi will be a triumph in the London restaurant scene. The view gets you through the door, but dishes such as the Chilean sea bass and that whisky ice cream are what will bring you back.
Cé La Vi London
17 & 18, 1 Paddington Sq,
London W2 1DL
Bookings and reservations, HERE.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Other Asian restaurants in London recommended by I-M Inquisitive Minds include China Tang and Shanghai Me.
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