Secluded behind the British luxury leather goods shop, Tanner Krolle, this speakeasy-style American restaurant has become a magnet for the young and beautiful of Mayfair.
The proposition is quite fun: retro-diner food reimagined as fine dining. In décor and ambience, Automat offers an intimate setting to while away the evening. Dark woods, soft leather, metal and lush foliage are complemented by flattering lighting that makes everything – and everyone – look better than expected.
There’s a subtle mid-century undertone to the space, but it’s been softened so it doesn’t tip into nostalgia. Instead, it feels contemporary and grown-up, with a slightly clubby atmosphere.
The cocktail menu combines classics such as Negroni and Dirty Martini with signature options that signal the playful character of the place with names like Wealth and Bitter Love. Especially popular is the Automat Martini Hour, which runs Tuesday to Thursday, 4-7pm. The perfect bougie spot for after-work drinks.
When it comes to food, Chef José Carlos Conde (who spent 15 years at Noma Copenhagen) is the creative mind behind a carte that reads like a list of guilty pleasures. So time to indulge. Warm up your appetite with Cheese Toasties “gentrified” with truffle: they are little pieces of smoked dairy heaven, with a rich tomato dipping sauce. The Chicken Nuggets are unmissable. If only the ones I had as a kid were like these! The bone-dry crunchy batter laced with smoked paprika is superb.
Automat Mayfair is renowned for its cocktails. Classics such as Old Fashioned, Negroni and Dirty Martini
pair beautifully with the house’s signature snacks, cheesy toasties and chicken nuggets
A retro-American restaurant could not be without a prawn cocktail. Here, it is made with jumbo shrimp and presented in the classic glass with the secret Automat house sauce. A wink to the dish that became so popular during Prohibition (suddenly, there was a huge surplus of cocktail glasses).
In keeping with the 1920s vibe, nothing like a good old Lobster Roll – also originated during Prohibition – which Automat serves on a bed of lettuce and seasoned with horseradish and lemon. Very indulgent and surprisingly light as it doesn’t have mayonnaise.
A Domaine Lucien Crochet 2022 Sancerre was the perfect wine to pair with the seafood. The palate is crisp and vibrant, with ripe, yellow-fleshed fruit, notes of herbs and citrus freshness, and a savoury mineral backbone. Its acidity cuts well through the richness of the butter and the brioche.
Signature American classics at Automat include Lobster Roll and Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail, both created in the USA during the Prohibition. Mains like Sea Bass with oil and caper sauce bring a more international twist to the menu.
For mains, apart from an excellent traditional USDA Prime NY Striploin, there are options a bit more international. The Wild Sea Bass fillet comes with a very simple oil and caper sauce, to let the delicate flavour of the fish shine through. The wine’s subtle roundness reassures the fish’s delicacy rather than overpowering it.
The desserts are a dream from childhood: Pecan Pie with cream, Dark Chocolate Mousse filled with peanut butter, Half-baked Cookie with caramel ice-cream, and Tiramisu with salted caramel and vanilla ice-cream.
It is hard to ask for more.
Automat Mayfair
127 Mount St, Mayfair, London W1K 3NT
Tel. +44 (0) +44 78 5825 1431 | bookings@automatdining.com | automatdining.com
Words: Lina Ress
Other fine dining restaurants in London recently reviewed by I-M Inquisitive Minds include Angler Rooftop, The Original Ivy and Shanghai Me.
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