Elegant, minimalistic, magnificent. These are three words that immediately come to mind when I think of my recent experience at the Michelin-starred Angler Rooftop, quietly hidden on the seventh floor of the South Place Hotel in the City.
Designed by Conran and Partners, the space oozes sophistication. Clean lines and floor-to-ceiling windows flood the room with natural light, while refined furnishings such as Bross’ Break chairs by Enzo Berti, pale woods and soft fabrics add the warmth needed to soften the modern aesthetic. Above, a mirrored ceiling creates a kaleidoscopic effect, reflecting both the dining room and the city lights beyond.
I particularly appreciated that the tables are generously spaced, which I believe is essential in a premium restaurant. There is nothing more distracting than dining elbow-to-elbow with strangers.
Outside, the west-facing terrace offers a year-round hideaway with a Provençal influence. Lush greenery, including lavender plants and olive trees, gives the space a relaxed, Mediterranean feel. A retractable roof and patio heaters allow it to shift seamlessly from a sun-drenched summer lounge to a cosy winter retreat, complete with glowing firepits, twinkling lights and snug furs.
The terrace at Angler Rooftop offers a versatile, semi-alfresco dining experience with stunning city views,
featuring a retractable roof, transparent side walls, and heaters for year-round comfort.
To the food. Angler is a seafood-focused restaurant, championing seasonal British ingredients and fresh catches sourced from across the British Isles. At the helm is Head Chef Craig Johnston who, at not yet 30 years old, has already won MasterChef: The Professionals and the Roux Scholarship, among other prestigious accolades.
Johnston’s cooking is playful and confident, drawing on global influences while showing deep respect for the quality of the ingredients. When I visited, restaurant manager Mladen Mladenov explained that they were debuting the festive menu, so I decided to be among the first to try it, while my companion chose from the à la carte.
To prepare our palates, we were served a glass of Piper-Heidsieck Brut with a trio of delicate amuse-bouche: a Tunworth cheese cornetto with candied walnuts; duck liver mousse on cornbread with a port reduction; and a homemade ricotta tart with raisin, caper and smoked salmon. Beautifully presented and refined in both flavour and texture.
My starter, cured Loch Duart salmon with green apple, shiso and pickled green chilli, was as fresh as a Scottish spring morning. The silky richness of the salmon was perfectly balanced by the bright acidity of the apple, the distinctive aroma of shiso and the gentle heat of the chilli. Our sommelier, John Le Bihan, paired it with a glass of Pieropan 2024 Soave Classico, a creamy, vibrant wine with notes of ripe fruit, grapefruit and almond. It worked beautifully with the layered flavours and varying levels of richness in the dish.
My companion began with the roasted Orkney scallop, cooked to perfection with a caramelised golden exterior and a centre still delicately raw. It was served with a silky Jerusalem artichoke purée, hazelnut and winter truffle dressing, which brought an earthy depth to the seafood’s natural sweetness. John paired it with a Chablis Premier Cru whose crisp minerality and saline notes echoed the sea, while its subtle richness complemented the scallop’s creamy texture.
At the Angler Rooftop, Chef Craig Johnston celebrates the best produce from the shores of the British Isles. Here featured cod from Peterhead in Scotland, English halibut and scallop from the Orkney Islands.
For mains, I chose the steamed halibut, served on a bed of leeks with parsnip purée, kombu, mushrooms and edible flowers. What a delicious piece of fish: meaty, pristine and perfectly cooked. The clean delicacy of the halibut allowed each accompanying element to shine, from the sweetness of the leeks to the umami depth of the seaweed and mushrooms.
My friend opted for the Scottish cod with caramelised cauliflower, lovage, mushrooms and a chicken butter sauce. Another beautifully balanced dish that highlighted the purity of the fish, with the sweetness of the cauliflower, the earthiness of the mushrooms and the aromatic lift of lovage bound together by the savoury richness of the sauce.
Going slightly off the beaten path, John paired both mains with a Chorey-Les-Beaune 2023 from Domaine Tollot-Beaut. This elegant, light-bodied red offered notes of black cherry, raspberry and spice. Its fresh acidity refreshed the palate between bites, while its fine, velvety tannins worked surprisingly well with the delicate texture of the fish.
For dessert, I could not resist the truffled Baron Bigod, served with warm malt loaf and quince purée. Comforting and indulgent, it struck a perfect balance between sweet and savoury, complemented by the umami depth of the truffle. My companion chose the Kir Royale, a bright and playful dessert of cassis and plum compote topped with champagne foam and finished with fizzy sherbet. A clever choice for those who prefer their desserts on the sharper side.
At the chef’s discretion, a couple of dishes were prepared slightly off-menu, which is very much part of the charm of Johnston’s kitchen. Nothing feels rigid or overly rehearsed. The priority is simply to give guests an unforgettable dining experience, one they will want to repeat. Paired with impeccable service, Angler Rooftop has firmly secured its place at the top of my London restaurant list. I cannot wait to return.
Angler Rooftop at South Place Hotel
3 South Pl, London EC2M 2AF
Tel. +44 (0) 20 3215 1260
Book your table, HERE.
Author: Julia Pasarón
Other outstanding London restaurants recently reviewed by I-M Inquisitive Minds include The Original Ivy, Shanghai Me and Paper Moon at the OWO.
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