Restoring local flavour to the Milford Haven Waterway
Food is social glue. It connects us across customs and cultures, just as it has Andy Woolmer of Pembrokeshire Oysters and Jonathan Williams at Café Môr. Together, they’re restoring local flavour to the fishing village of Angle.
I visited them a couple of months ago, to understand why customers drive hundreds of miles to eat here. First, I see Jonathan Williams, one half of the duo I’m here to meet. He is bright and convivial. In minutes, he’s produced tea, coffee and plates of laverbread wraps with cockles and bacon, the whole lot shored up by smoked salmon, roasted peppers and pickled seaweed.
Next, a pint of prawns arrives, along with Andy Woolmer, the can-do marine biologist putting Angle oysters back on the culinary map. Clouds break over the estuary that a nearby placard describes as “rich soup”. The previous weekend, it helped feed over 400 people courtesy of The Josie June – a former fishing boat reborn as the world’s first solar-powered, mobile seaweed kitchen. It’s recently dropped anchor in the beer garden to our right. Less than a mile away, on the…