Opening image: Speake Marin ONE & TWO Openworked Tourbillon.
In this day and age new watch releases from independent manufacturers tend to occur throughout the year. That said, a number have saved their new creations for Watches & Wonders 2020.
Speake Marin have continued to develop their “One&Two” openworked tourbillon design with their in-house self-winding movement, micro-rotor and a 60 second flying tourbillon. The open worked dial now features a black microblasted matt finish and black plated bridges. Available in 38 mm (£50,000) and 42 mm (£50,500).
Perhaps to keep up with the dark times of a virus imprisoned world, the HYT H0 has introduced an all-black version of the now familiar and proprietary liquid powered mechanical mechanism. From the DLC stainless steel with brushed, micro-blasted or satin finishes to the dial, engraved opaline markers and numerals, all elements are in black. Even the hour and minute hands are black DLC with the same orange Super-LumiNova® that is used on the lateral numerals (from £36,000).
The second release is the complex H5 line (limited to 25 pieces at £49,000) with a blue fluid display. The difference with the HO is that in the H5 nothing is hidden, all mechanical parts are exposed and come in an array of shades of grey, from anthracite on the hour ring and flange to gun-metal on the bridge – with dynamic coloured accents.
While URWERK are known for their innovative designs, they are also an haute horologerie manufacturer second to none. To underline their credentials and help preserve watchmaking skills for the future, they became part of the TimeAeon Foundation. As part of this preservation of traditional craftsmanship, two watchmakers from URWERK, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, who met while studying watchmaking at the École d’Horlogerie de Soleure, have spent the last few years scouring Switzerland, buying and restoring historical watchmaking tools and with them, have developed the Naissance, a new watch with an entirely atypical inverted movement: the dial side features a constant force-regulating system with its differential and a large balance wheel with an extraordinary shape fitted with four arms. To complete the movement, there is a large power reserve indication on the case-back. Now, this watch is not available at retailers so if you want it, you’ll have to go through Christie’s or the TimeAeon Foundation.